Mitsu hc4000 with sf v2.5, advice needed.

Originally Posted by pb_maxxx

we don't mind stealth diy'ers... but it's always more fun to particpate.
the problem with silver fire and being 'stealth' is that it sorta like the blind leading the blind... if you have no idea what the colorant or end result should look like.

let's face it... we've done what we can to minimize mistakes with respect to measurements and many useful instructions. but the measurements for the colorant are quite small and mistakes can happen. i've seen people push blue, push red, and push green... it happens... and without the knowledge of those who know such... how would you visually know this by yourself if this is your first time ever looking at a mixed colorant and saying to yourself...'hmmm i wonder if this is the right color?" the other site hasn't a clue who to do silver fire correctly. the practice their own brand of science and are definitely the blind leading the blind.

ok, so you say you are pushing blue. do you have any of the mix left and are you willing to spray a couple more coat to possibly correct the issue. i can help you make your mix more nuetral. it's really up to you.

Originally Posted by MississippiMan

The Gold is in the mix to help prevent such a blue push...if it's just present to a small degree. If the colorant mix you have left is at hand, shake it up and dip a spoon into it. Rinse it with a light stream of water into a white Basin or Dish. Do this also with the complete SF mix. If they both rinse off a neutral Gray color, the issue is almost undoubtedly due to the PJs own tendency to push a blue image onto a Gray surface...and calibration to the shade of Gray is needed.

Either way, there are easy corrections that can be made...both "paint" and "electronic" in nature.

I really don't go here often but I feel obliged to in this case:

.......pay no attention to those "men" behind the HTS Curtain. Most of all their 'wizardry' came from being involved with this site, and though they protest otherwise, they have no vested interest in proving that anything that comes from this direction is a valid application.. Just a cursory overview of the derogatory comments and corrosive tone of many of their posts pretty much proves that point to a truly intuitive reader. They do have a vested interest in promoting their thing...and feel obliged to try to discount everything else that isn't of their own creation.

Which is funny because almost nothing they do really is original since actually, since virtually every single application they espouse...even the ones contributed by Foreign member,s are based on/around previous applications that originated from here. They are just re-hashed and re-badged. (...as even a few of our own are....) The only somewhat original idea of the bunch is the use of a yellow-beige Base paint to create a neutral Gray with a single Aluminum additive. And even that application is of limited use and flexibility.
(...and Golly, how do you suppose they figured out that Yellow offsets a Blue push caused by a Metallic? Coincidence? Not when one considers we were doing such with RS-MaxxMudd away back in 2004. Even funnier still...every single one of 'em used to decry the use of "any" metallics as a viable or even needed solution. )

The limitations inherent in the BW formula has spurred others there to try to mitigate those limitations, creating lighter mixes with less reflectivity. All those routes are a "been there, done that" thing previously used on AVS by several contributors, just perhaps via the use of different ingredients. Now that is simply the way of things in almost all DIY...their is very little out there that has not been tried. In the case of the Light Fusion / MMudd / Black Flame / Silver Fire apps, some things of truly original import was brought forward...and from the start guess what small group of individuals were at the forefront of those trying to discount their worthiness? Only one guess should be needed.

Just consider this....if even just 1/2 of the members who attempt SF applications came away with the issues and end results they state are fact, then we'd be quite the unpopular fellows. No Sit...I'd say over 95% of the people who go down the DIY Road we suggest are extremely pleased with the outcome. So we'll stand on those opinions,
not those coming from 3-4 individuals on a competing Forum.

That's all I'll say about that, for the next several months at least. Even I don't feel the need to trash out others efforts on an almost everyday basis. I'm too busy anyway helping everyone who asks for such.

Originally Posted by pb_maxxx

do me favor and take a pic of your current mix and post as accurate to the color as you can.

i'll try to help you from there.

Originally Posted by ERuiz

That is an understatement! I can attest to this fact and say that MM has ALWAYS answered my phone calls and even called back when he had time. You can't even get this type of help or support from businesses! :-)

Originally Posted by pb_maxxx

i wouldn't worry so much about the gold... you used the original SF V2 proportions... which was 3oz of liquitex gold. that's fine.

from thorough testing by a couple avs members who have made SF screens for themselves... it has less blue push than sintra or melamie.

we need to find where your push is coming from... whether it's the pj or the mix. i can't help to determine that without something to work with... whether it's pics, macros, screenshots... something.

Originally Posted by pb_maxxx

HD DLP;

it sometimes hard to tell from a pic... but from what i can see... you are definitely pushing blue on the mix.

take this suggestion... mix 3ml of red... 1.5ml yellow... and 1/2oz of gold with 2oz of water. then add the entire corrective mix to current mix.

mix thoroughly and post up a new macro.

Originally Posted by MississippiMan

Here I be.

I don't think pb realized you had already put up a your coatings onto your screen. His formula will correct the issues, but since you have less than the normal amount left, you should only add it incrementally until you can actually see the Paint Mix even out and change.

How much of the assembled Mix is remaining? To adequately cover the Push without re-priming the surface white, you'd need to apply at least 2 normal coats, preferably 3. You can get by with less though "IF" you opt to re-prime....which IMO is what you should do in any case.