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#1 ·
Rather than have people post calibration settings in the general owner's thread where they'll get buried, I figured I'd start a new thread specifically for calibration settings. I figure it makes sense to have people post their settings for both the D7000 & D8000 models since they essentially use the same panel. If anyone tries any of the settings that are posted here, please report back. It will be interesting to see how well the settings transfer between individual sets and sizes.


My PN64D8000 was calibrated by Gregg Loewen from Lion AV. He did a great job and kept me informed about what he was doing every step of the way. The gray-scale and colors ended up spot on.


Here are the settings that I ended up with after the calibration. I've also attached the before and after charts for reference.

Edit: I replaced my settings with the latest collaborative table that shows my settings along with settings from zoyd, cue03, and LarryInRI

TiVoHDzoydcue03LarryInRI
64D800051D800064D800064D7000
ModeMovieMovieMovieMovie
Peak White30ftL27.8ftL
Cell Light20152015
Contrast96809580
Brightness54545366
Sharpness0050
Color50505044
Tint50/5050/5050/5048/52
Black Toneoffoffoff
Dynamicoffoffoff
gamma-1-1-10
RGB Onlyoff
Flesh Tone000
Edge Enhanceoffoffoff
Motion Lightoffoffoff
xvYccoffoffoff
Color Tonewarm2warm2warm2
Digital Noiseoffoffoff
mpeg Noiseoffoffoff
Color Space
Red_r48394336
Red_g66650
Red_b65550
Green_r20201460
Green_g54505050
Green_b36120
Blue_r31340
Blue_g33020
Blue_b50414750
Yellow_r53514850
Yellow_g53515050
Yellow_b6752
Cyan_r17181520
Cyan_g52484946
Cyan_b52485146
Magenta_r47414440
Magenta_g8663
Magenta_b57484847
White Balance
r-offset26222528
g-offset25262522
b-offset22252522
r-gain13302528
g-gain25252524
b-gain29273024
10-point
r10-110
g10-100
b10011
r202-40
g201-30
b202-40
r31010
g30010
b30-200
r40100
g40010
b40-11-1
r5002-1
g51120
b52-331
r6-201-1
g60010
b60121
r71100
g72100
b72200
r8-2-1-10
g800-10
b801-10
r90-100
g92-100
b9-21-10
r100110
g102000
b10-23-30
 
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#2 ·
Thanks TiVoHD for setting up this thread.

Updated 03/29/2012


I have switched back to a movie mode calibration only due to some unusual behavior found in the Cal D/N saturation tracking. (see post here ). The following settings were derived using custom APL patterns for both gray scale and color and then the color calibration was tweaked using the Argyll CMS/DispcalGUI software to minimize dE over a range of luminances and saturations. For D8000 only.

ModeMovie
Average gamma (fixed APL)2.3
Peak White35 ftL
Cell light16
contrast91
brightness56
sharpness8
color47
tint51G/49R
black toneoff
dynamicoff
gamma-2
flesh tone0
edge enhanceoff
motion lightingoff
xvYccoff
color tonewarm2
digital noiseauto*
mpeg noiseoff
Custom color space
Red_r40
Red_g7
Red_b8
Green_r21
Green_g47
Green_b0
Blue_r0
Blue_g2
Blue_b48
Yellow_r50
Yellow_g48
Yellow_b8
Cyan_r20
Cyan_g50
Cyan_b50
Magenta_r39
Magenta_g7
Magenta_b48
White Balance
r-off22
g-off25
b-off22
r-gain18
g-gain25
b-gain27
10-pt intervals
10,0,1
23,2,2
33,2,2
40,0,-1
50,1,-4
61,2,1
71,3,1
83,4,2
9-1,0,1
10-1,2,3

05/11/2012

Here is an alternative (see discussion here) which uses an approach to gamma calibration which is designed to avoid crushed blacks.


After feedback from LarryinRI and experimenting with the inverse BT.709 (camera) function mentioned at the beginning of that thread, I've decided to abandon it. There appear to be some cases where it's a good match to the video material but not as a general rule. After more feedback in the gamma discussion thread I've decided to try a BT.1886 recommended function curve and those calibration results are below if you'd like to try it out. (It's very similar to LarryinRI's custom gamma curve)


update 05/24/2012

Reflects adjustments based on calibrating to color checker patterns .

ModeMovie
Average gamma2.2 (variable 2.1-2.3)
Peak White35 ftL
Cell light14
contrast95
brightness55
sharpness0
color49
tint50G/50R
black toneoff
dynamicoff
gamma-1
flesh tone-3
edge enhanceoff
motion lightingoff
xvYccoff
color tonewarm2
digital noiseauto*
mpeg noiseoff
Custom color space
Red_r38
Red_g5
Red_b6
Green_r18
Green_g45
Green_b4
Blue_r2
Blue_g3
Blue_b40
Yellow_r50
Yellow_g49
Yellow_b8
Cyan_r18
Cyan_g46
Cyan_b48
Magenta_r35
Magenta_g4
Magenta_b44
White Balance
r-off25
g-off26
b-off20
r-gain15
g-gain27
b-gain26
10-pt intervals
12, 1, 3
22, 3, 3
3-1, 0, 1
4-5,-4,-3
5-4,-3,-6
6-4,-3,-5
7-4,-3,-4
8-2,-1,-2
9-2,-2,-3
10-3,-2,-1

Bright room: contrast 95 cell 20 brightness 53 gamma 0 [48ftL]

Medium light: contrast 95 cell 14 brightness 55 gamma -1 [35ftL]

Dark room: contrast 95 cell 11 brightness 56 gamma -1 (or -2 if really dark) [28ftL]


*The noise filter does a good job of cleaning up average to poor SD material. Turn it off for good quality source.






Average dE94=0.92, max=1.44



Tracking chart at 75% luminance - 75L/100S Average dE94=1.4, max=2.1
 
#4 ·
I was wondering if either of you could post your 3D settings? Are they the same? Also any preferred Xbox 360 settings?


edit: Zoyd I just updated my settings with the small tweaks you made from your first post...Still looking great, will you keep updating/editing that post?
 
#5 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by EvanVanVan /forum/post/20405903


I was wondering if either of you could post your 3D settings? Are they the same? Also any preferred Xbox 360 settings?

I have my 3D settings set the same. I would crank up the cell light for 3D if I didn't already have it at the highest setting.


These settings seem just as good with my Xbox 360.
 
#6 ·
One thing I forgot to mention is to make sure you have the Screen Size set to Screen Fit. I thought that the 16:9 setting would be the same, except with a little overscan cropped from the edges. That's basically true, but it forces the TV to scale the remaining pixels to it's native resolution of 1920x1080, so you no longer get true 1080p (or 1080i for that matter). Gregg showed me a test slide that showed all kinds of banding with the TV set to 16:9. It looked perfect when we changed it to Screen Fit.


I realize that the Pixel Shift function isn't available with Screen Fit, but that's a small price to pay for no loss in resolution.
 
#8 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by EvanVanVan /forum/post/20405903


I was wondering if either of you could post your 3D settings? Are they the same? Also any preferred Xbox 360 settings?


edit: Zoyd I just updated my settings with the small tweaks you made from your first post...Still looking great, will you keep updating/editing that post?

That was after 50 hours of use, I'll update again in a week or two along with a 3D calibration although I don't expect it to be much different and I've just copied over those to the 3D settings for now. As far as gaming settings there is a "game mode" available under system->general but I don't know what it does.


edit: definitely use screen fit, 16:9 overscans 2.5% so you lose ~25 vertical pixels of resolution.
 
#10 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by TiVoHD /forum/post/20405946


One thing I forgot to mention is to make sure you have the Screen Size set to Screen Fit. I thought that the 16:9 setting would be the same, except with a little overscan cropped from the edges. That's basically true, but it forces the TV to scale the remaining pixels to it's native resolution of 1920x1080, so you no longer get true 1080p (or 1080i for that matter). Gregg showed me a test slide that showed all kinds of banding with the TV set to 16:9. It looked perfect when we changed it to Screen Fit.


I realize that the Pixel Shift function isn't available with Screen Fit, but that's a small price to pay for no loss in resolution.

Does anyone know with any certainty what the "small price" of no pixel shift actually means? Would you advise that we wait a few weeks after purchase to move to Screen Fit?
 
#11 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ItzMe /forum/post/20406136


Does anyone know with any certainty what the "small price" of no pixel shift actually means? Would you advise that we wait a few weeks after purchase to move to Screen Fit?

Can you tell those of us who are following this thread in order to achieve accurate picture quality, but aren't versed in the (processing?) features, what "pixel shift" is?
 
#12 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zetherin /forum/post/20406148


Can you tell those of us who are following this thread in order to achieve accurate picture quality, but aren't versed in the (processing?) features, what "pixel shift" is?

pixel shift is the orbiter function, it occasionally will shift static images on the screen to avoid image retention. If you use screen fit this is disabled because you can't maintain 1:1 mapping and shift the image around at the same time. I don't use the orbiter even when the display is new, I just avoid too many static images and if there is one for awhile like a box score, I'll switch channels occasionally to scrub the screen. image retention is really not an issue with the new phosphors unless you really try hard.
 
#13 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd /forum/post/20406242


pixel shift is the orbiter function, it occasionally will shift static images on the screen to avoid image retention. If you use screen fit this is disabled because you can't maintain 1:1 mapping and shift the image around at the same time. I don't use the orbiter even when the display is new, I just avoid too many static images and if there is one for awhile like a box score, I'll switch channels occasionally to scrub the screen. image retention is really not an issue with the new phosphors unless you really try hard.

Oh ok, so it's just a feature that helps prevent image retention. It has nothing to do with picture quality.


Thanks.
 
#17 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by whackawookie /forum/post/20405767


Tried the settings and they look great but running contrast and cell light that high right out the box scares me. I will revisit these once the break in periods over

It looks like TiVoHD's was calibrated for a room with lot's of ambient light. I plugged those number's into my set and got 50 ftL peak white output. The settings I use are for a mid-dark room (dark walls and small windows) with peak white at 30 ftL.
 
#18 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd /forum/post/20406395


It looks like TiVoHD's was calibrated for a room with lot's of ambient light. I plugged those number's into my set and got 50 ftL peak white output. The settings I use are for a mid-dark room (dark walls and small windows) with peak white at 30 ftL.

Yup, my family room has a lot of ambient light during the day. It definitely may be too bright for some. Reducing the cell light would probably be enough to dial that down.
 
#19 ·
I am using zoyd's settings and the tv looks great. However I do have a great deal of ambient light during the day is there a way for me to save both settings and switch back and forth depending on time of day? I know the C8000 had a day/night setting but I haven't seen this on my 51 D8000.
 
#20 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by pato79 /forum/post/20406436


I am using zoyd's settings and the tv looks great. However I do have a great deal of ambient light during the day is there a way for me to save both settings and switch back and forth depending on time of day? I know the C8000 had a day/night setting but I haven't seen this on my 51 D8000.

From buzzard767:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=5027
 
#21 ·
#24 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI /forum/post/20406552


zoyd,


Did you consider the D7000. If so or if no, why?


Thanks,

Larry

I was ready to get it and was overruled by my wife who liked the looks of the D8000 better.



@JCUMV Hard to say since we don't know how much has changed. If they use phosphors with different efficiency and/or different driving schemes then these setting likely won't work well. Won't hurt to try them though.
 
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