Samsung D7000 & D8000 Settings/Calibration Thread - Page 39

Originally Posted by Rob67

Larry,

Have you (or anyone) calibrated the set independantly for DirecTV? I used a combination of your settings (Cal Day) and CNET (movie) with great results on PS3 Blu Ray.

But, I ordered Thor on DTV PPV and noticed it was real dark, almost to the point of crush.

Has anyone used the HDNeT test screens for tweaks?

I have the 59D7000

Originally Posted by Rob67

Larry,

Have you (or anyone) calibrated the set independantly for DirecTV? I used a combination of your settings (Cal Day) and CNET (movie) with great results on PS3 Blu Ray.

But, I ordered Thor on DTV PPV and noticed it was real dark, almost to the point of crush.

Has anyone used the HDNeT test screens for tweaks?

I have the 59D7000

Originally Posted by ksigdawg

I was starting to think I was one of the only people having problems with the DirecTV Picture Quality... Every day I have been trying to adjust my 64D8000 to make the PQ look better, but it's like an uphill battle. Some channels look OK, others look terrible... If anyone has good #'s for DirecTV please post! Thanks!

(I am pretty sure my wife will go crazy if she sees the Picture Settings menu pop up one more time...haha)

Originally Posted by alexmanny01

I would also like to know what are some good settings for directv.

If anyone can provide it would be great.
Thanks

Originally Posted by LarryInRI

I do not recommend copying settings for these Samsungs.

It became obvious early in the model year that the D8000 settings did not work well when applied to the D7000. Now after having two 64D7000 panels, it is obvious that even within the same model, the optimum settings are different for each one. And I don't mean just a little different. The two panels that I had were quite different -- with the settings from the first one visibly wrong when applied to the second unit.

The offset method that D-Nice developed for the Pioneer and Panasonic plasmas worked quite well. I can attest to that for two different model Panasonics that I owned. But since there is no easy way to use that offset method on these Samsungs, I suggest that the only thing that one can do, lacking a meter, is to try the various settings that have been posted and select the one that suits you best.


EDIT: kjgarrison, if the HR24 is connected via component the black level is correct. The problem only exists when connected by HDMI. Also, I suspect that your Denon is decoding the EDID correctly. The latest Samsungs, some Panasonics, and even the mightly KURO do not decode it properly.


Larry

Originally Posted by LarryInRI

But since there is no easy way to use that offset method on these Samsungs.

Originally Posted by janos666

May be it would help to reset the WB calibration settings in the SM.

When I received my TV, the base WB settings where adjusted for whatever target. I kept those settings for the break-in period but I reset them to 8x128 before I did my first thorough calibration.

A technician replaced my main-board last week and I found that the WB settings are at their defaults (all 128) but the Movie mode WB settings are exactly the same.

May be that procedure could be reproduced on these TVs (more or less), like:
- Reset the base WB settings in the SM to 128
- Turn ON the TV and don't change anything
- Start the built-in "scrolling bars" and let it run for 200 hours
- Copy the settings

I skipped the first one (actually I did it later...) and I didn't copy anything (I have a spectro), but I did a synthetic break-in with the scrolling bars as described (yes, the default dynamic mode is fine for doing this). It saved me the trouble to be paranoid in the first few hundred hours and may be to limit the brightness to uncomfortable levels while playing games during this time (which also extends the break-in period...), etc...

Originally Posted by kjgarrison

What IS your TV? I thought these settings were not accessible in these sets.

Originally Posted by Tallen234

I've had two d7000. Started with a 59" and have now moved up to the 64".

Both sizes OOTB in Movie mode have "yellowish" whites. In all other modes, the whites look white.

Has anyone else experienced this?

Originally Posted by janos666

May be it would help to reset the WB calibration settings in the SM.

When I received my TV, the base WB settings where adjusted for whatever target. I kept those settings for the break-in period but I reset them to 8x128 before I did my first thorough calibration.

A technician replaced my main-board last week and I found that the WB settings are at their defaults (all 128) but the Movie mode WB settings are exactly the same.

May be that procedure could be reproduced on these TVs (more or less), like:
- Reset the base WB settings in the SM to 128
- Turn ON the TV and don't change anything
- Start the built-in "scrolling bars" and let it run for 200 hours
- Copy the settings

I skipped the first one (actually I did it later...) and I didn't copy anything (I have a spectro), but I did a synthetic break-in with the scrolling bars as described (yes, the default dynamic mode is fine for doing this). It saved me the trouble to be paranoid in the first few hundred hours and may be to limit the brightness to uncomfortable levels while playing games during this time (which also extends the break-in period...), etc...

Originally Posted by janos666

...on the other hand, the Advanced mode should be available after you hit Factory and 3Speed. There would be less accidents and less mad advanced users here.

Originally Posted by Tallen234

I've had two d7000. Started with a 59" and have now moved up to the 64".

Both sizes OOTB in Movie mode have "yellowish" whites. In all other modes, the whites look white.

Has anyone else experienced this?

Originally Posted by sn1ffb0

It's not Movie mode that is doing this. It's the warm color temp that's doing this. If you change it to cool or standard, you'll see a major difference in whites.

Originally Posted by LarryInRI

And, of course, by doing this you move far away from the specification for a calibration -- which is the purpose of this thread.


Larry

Originally Posted by kjgarrison

I have compared the HDNet test screens using settings produced by the Spears & Munsil BluRay calibration disc as well as the AVS Rec709 disc. Also, if you Google the HDNet test screens you will find, as I did, that they are not very helpful for anything beyond brightness setting and to a lesser degree, contrast. They are no good for color adjustments because the color bars you have to compare are neither adjacent to each other nor flashing.

When I put the settings derived from these BluRay discs into my DirecTV input and look at the HDNet test screens, it looks good: faint "10" in right lower box => brightness setting is good, and faint "0" in left lower box => contrast is not too high.

I guess I should include the screens that help with sharpness setting. Any pattern that shows black lines against a light background lets you easily see the white ghosting artifact running along the black line that too high sharpness setting produces. You need to get up close to the TV.

So the HDNet test screens are of limited value, but what value they do have confirms settings derived from better discs and over various inputs. (As does watching the TV.)

I should also mention that my DirecTV boxes are all HR24s, and I do not see this black issue mentioned in LarryInRi's post above and discussed in several other places. One of my 2 HR24's connects to my TV with component, and the other one passes through my Denon AVR which performs no video processing. This absence of any difference includes looking at the HDNet test screens with component and HDMI. Like I already said brightness setting is the ONE thing the HDNet test screens do fairly well.

My set is a 51" D8000, August build.

Also, I have tried the settings ryu4000 posted and done by Chad B and on my set they look REALLY good. I tried some of the earlier settings posted and they did not work for my TV, but I have not compared the called for settings of Chad B to the earlier ones to see what the differences are.

Originally Posted by LarryInRI

It appears that the black level problem exists with all the HR24 boxes. And it appears to be a problem with the TV not being able to decode the EDID (extended display identification data) properly. The most mentioned TV brands that seem to have this difficulty are some Pioneers (KURO included), some Panasonics, and the recent Samsungs.

Here's what got me interested in this: We had two HR23-700 models -- one in the living room and the other in the bedroom. The living room unit died and was replaced with an HR24-500. The black level problem was immediately apparent. The colors looked fine. (This is an HDMI problem. Black levels using component connections are not affected.)

I did some extensive experimenting over the long weekend and determined that, for the Samsung, changing the HDMI Black level is detrimental to the gamma. Significantly reducing the Brightness, however, corrects the problem while maintaining the properly calibrated gamma. I used both my i1 LT and i1 Pro meters in order to measure both black level and colors accurately.

Just to define what I mean by "significantly reducing the Brightness": For my D7000 where originally the Brightness was set at 64, I had to drop it to down to 44.

Larry

Originally Posted by NJPapi1977

So Larry, for direct tv hd boxes we should put hdmi black level at normal and reduce brightness to compensate for the washed out look

Originally Posted by LarryInRI

NJPapi1977,

Yes, but for HR24 boxes only.

Larry

Originally Posted by Rob67

So, I guess I am not sure if my issue is the same with my HR22-100. RE: my post above.

My blacks are crushed in the film and I am not sure if lowering the brightness solves my issue. Unfortunately, I don't have access to the PPV film to test any longer.

I will play around with the test pattern I recorded and see if that needs changed.

Originally Posted by LarryInRI

The black level problem only exists with the HR24 and maybe only the HR24-500 when used with the current Samsungs, some Panasonics, and the KURO. (Some Sony LEDs also, I think.) I made this clear when I first mentioned it.

It is a problem that most probably is caused by the TVs not decoding the extended display identification data (EDID) properly.

Larry

Originally Posted by lunar69

Firstly... thanks to all the experts here for their invaluable advice!!

I recently received a PN51D8000 and would like the 'experts' advice (zoyd if he has the time!) on using the X-Rite i1Display Pro for the plasma TV calibration as well as profiling my LCD monitors for photographic applications. I'm on a budget and the $1000+ equipment you guys use is outta my league! And thanks to zoyd and others for the tables of settings... so far they work great on my 51".

w_w_w.xrite.com/product_overview.aspx?ID=1454

Thanks,
Marty

Originally Posted by GBFreek

Just purchased a 64D8000 (delivery tomorrow). Reading this thread with great interest. One real dumb question, are the settings described by Cue, or others, completely achievable by NOT going into some advanced service menu? Meaning, can I get to these just by going through the normal on screen (consumer ready) menus?

Originally Posted by zoyd

Don't know about photographic applications but I've used the i1Display and it does a decent job. Mine has an offset with respect to the i1pro for white balance and measurements of red but it's relatively minor and well worth the investment if you enjoy getting into DIY calibrations.

Originally Posted by LarryInRI

Zoyd, I'm not sure to which meter Marty is referring. The link that he included is for the x-rite i1 Display Pro -- but is that the one that interests him? He says he is on a budget.


As you know but others may not:

The x-rite "i1Display Pro", the SpectraCal "OEM i1Display", and the ChromaPure "EyeOne Display 3" are the same. These are colorimeters They come without software needed to calibrate a TV display. (These cost about $250.) None of these work with the free HCFR software.

The above are not to be confused with the ChromaPure "i1 Display 3 PRO" and the "SpectraCal C6" which are the same unit but married to specific software for calibration. (These bundled meter/software combos cost about $450.)

But the ones mentioned above are different from the "i1 LT" and the "i1 Display 2" (aka the i1 D2). The LT and the D2 meters are identical, the difference being only with the included software. (These cost about $125.) They can be used with the free HCFR software.)

Adding even more to the confusion is the x-rite "i1 Pro" which is a spectroradiometer. (It now costs about $800.) It can be used with the free software.

Then there is the SpectraCal "i1Pro Enhanced Spectroradiometer" that is bundled with software. (It costs about $1000.)

Of course we can't neglect the ChromaPure "X-Rite i1Pro-Display 3 Combo" which is a bundle containing a "i1 Pro" spectroradiometer, a "Display 3 colorimeter", and software. (Cost is about $2500.)


Probably I have left some combinations out or gotten some items wrong. Feel free to correct me and add even more to the chaos.


Larry

Originally Posted by LarryInRI

Zoyd, I'm not sure to which meter Marty is referring. The link that he included is for the x-rite i1 Display Pro -- but is that the one that interests him? He says he is on a budget.
...
But the ones mentioned above are different from the "i1 LT" and the "i1 Display 2" (aka the i1 D2). The LT and the D2 meters are identical, the difference being only with the included software. (These cost about $125.) They can be used with the free HCFR software.)
...
Larry

Originally Posted by lunar69

Larry... I was referring to the i1 Display Pro @ $269.
I checked the xRite web site and they say the i1 Display2 is discontinued [ http://www.xrite.com/ph_product_over...ction=overview ] but it is still available on the web. I assume this is the one you speak of:

http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-i1Displ.../dp/B000JLO31M

If I get this (with the included i1Match software) will I be able to calibrate my D8000? Also, can I use it with the free HCFR software you mention? BTW, a pointer to this free software would be appreciated... thanks!

Marty

Originally Posted by jespermart

So how come that all the configuration settings are talking about settings of contrast between 80-95 but the brightness only in the area of 55-65.

Originally Posted by jespermart

When i'm using the AVS HD Calibration disk i'm not able to set the video black point to 17 unless i use contrast = 90, brightness = 80 & cell light = 14 that gives me video black = 17 and fl a bit over 30 measured with OEM i1display pro In Calman v4

So how come that all the configuration settings are talking about settings of contrast between 80-95 but the brightness only in the area of 55-65.

If i'm using that kind of settings it gives me a video black point of 20-21.