Samsung D7000 & D8000 Settings/Calibration Thread - Page 43

Thanks for your answer.
So you mean that it's not a software feature, but hardware?
Nothing to do about it?

That is the odd thing, I tried TivoHD's setting thinking that may be the answer with the cell light at 20 but honestly the colors were terrible and appeared aside from too dim a bit green/blue. I was looking to be a little more accurate (not professionally calibrated) but I believe I went in the opposit direction.

So what are the color space settings you list for movie mode? Are they just for movie mode if you're not using CAL-DAY and CAL-NIGHT?

Do you just use CAL-DAY and CAL-NIGHT (and not movie mode) for viewing, and therefore use the color space best for CAL-DAY/NIGHT?

I don't know what built-in motion processing the display is doing but it looks like any software adjustments for it have been removed.


yes, movie mode with CS off.


I use Cal D/N for viewing with CS off and Movie for viewing with CS on. I have new calibrations for Movie with CS on using a manually edited Native color table which is only accessible using the RS-232 debug port. I don't think it's worth posting those since the errors in using posted settings are probably larger than the errors in CS on vs. off plus I don't think too many people want to go through the trouble of building debug cables unless they do their own calibrations.

So just using the Cal D/N color space for Movie is close enough?

Technically no, the custom colorspace for the two are significantly different. In my case I have edited the Native colorspace in the service menu to use with movie mode. However, in your case I just don't know if the error in using borrowed settings in greater than or less than the error in using one colorspace for Cal D/N vs. Movie.

zoyd,

For my D7000, I found that the calibrated color space values for Movie are quite close to those calibrated for the CAL modes -- close enough to be imperceptible visually. On the other hand, I found that the calibrated white balance values were significantly different between the Movie and CAL modes. In particular, the red offsets and gains needed to be increased substantially tn the CAL modes. (Of course, there is the difference is gamma setting but that's another discussion.)


Larry

Another reason why that unless you measure the various options on your own display just pick the set of posted settings you like best, tweak to your personal preferences and don't worry about it.

Does anyone know a proper calibration for PS3 games? I am using the PN51D8000. In movie mode, it's a little dark. I'd rather have the brights pop for gaming.

Thanks.

Yes. I've said it a number of times in this thread -- copying settings do not work well for these Samsungs. And there is a big inherent difference between the D7000 and D8000 settings.

BTW have you measured the black level on your 51D8000 lately? I did a 500 mile check-up on my 64D7000 Friday night and found that it is still at 0.006 ftL. That was measured with multiple readings on my LT after reaching ambient screen temperature and immediately after a black level initialization. It is the same as when I took the first reading on this new panel at about 150 hours.

Larry

Gaming -> PC mode: It has a weird TRC (the luminance increases very fast between the near-black shades), low input lag, and real 4:4:4 reproduction.
Just label your HDMI input as "PC" and feed it with 1080p60 Full Range RGB signal.

I personally prefer to play with a calibrated Movie mode (same calibration targets as for movies).

Is there a set of settings in ehre (which would be applicable to the 7000) which is considered the go to settings for many? This is a ton of pages with a lot of talking abck and forth instead of calibrations so it wouldn't be easy for me to figure out if any are thought to be the best by a lot of people as is usually the case in these threads. I did read the first page although also my model and size don't match up with any on there. Shouldn't be a big deal, but who knows.

I measured 0.045 cd/m^2 with 60Hz after the first 200 hours long synthetic break-in and I measured the same last time I calibrated the TV when it had ~1000 hours in it.
I think it's close to ~1800 now, I will check it again when I got my serial adapter but I don't think it will ever rise.

I always measured the black after the cells was charged up. The black bars can go much lower during a long cinema movie and I can see a gray "cinema screen" in the middle of the display when there is a really dark scene in the movie. It is a bit annoying. Seriously, it would be better to keep the black bars lighter. I thought about it to fill them with very dark gray.

janos,

What size screen do you have? I assume that your have a 51 inch since your black level value is about twice what I get on my 64.

What meter are you using for your black level readings?

Larry

I measure about the same as janos666, 0.05 cd/m^2 60Hz and 0.075 cd/m^2 96Hz and that hasn't changed since I got it. Though using an LT I would not be surprised if that number were +/- 20%.

51"
A ColorMunki spectro with ArgyllCMS drivers in Adaptive HighRes mode (much longer integration time than with normal mode).
I still don't trust in it any lower than this, but somebody measured exactly the same values on the same display model with his Klein K-10 as me, so I trust in it as much that it would indicate any black level rising.
(The same person also told me that bigger panels have significantly lower MLL.)

Interesting. About six months ago I had the low level accuracy of my LT verified with a Konica Minolta LS-100. It was good down to below 0.02 cd/m^2. I have confidence in my 0.024 cd/m^2 reading.

Larry

Eh am I missing something? If the numbers are really 0.05 to 0.07 that's horrible. That's worse than my 5 year old lcd.

Units, son, units. The units are important. There are two basic ones used -- cd/m^2 (candelas/square meter) and ftL (foot Lamberts.) The later is used in North America. The rest of the world uses the former.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foot-lambert


Larry

Ah ok thanks. I didn't pay much attention to the units since I am so used to seeing the CNET specs without paying attention to units.

If it's indeed true that these settings vary from set to set with the 7000 then this thread is pretty much a waste. There are way too many settings to just play around with finding the right white balance, color settings, etc... and as crazy as it may sound hardly anyone is going to be spending hundreds to thousands of dollars to either get a professional calibration or do it with equipment. Everyone's settings are way off from each other to begin with so it would be impossible to get good settings without the professinal calibrating also. I would almost rather there be less settings where at least it could be played arounsd with. Nobody can just go randomly changing this many settigns and know what result it's causing just by looking at the screen.

Your constant whining is a joke right?

Just curious how calinrations can even be useful if the people doing the calibrations say they don't apply to anything. That's all.

Speaking of which, I just used cnet's settings just as a starter and in pitch black it was so bright it was about to knock me to the floor. And the black screens between scenes and also the credits black screen were having so much light it reminded me of an lcd which I bought this to get away from.

I wonder what in the world is going on because cnet isn't usually so far off as to ahve a bright screen for black screens.

Patient: "Doc, it hurts when I do this."

Doc: "Don't do that."

I have tried multiple settings and actually entered some Cal Night settings last night. I have 5 HDTV's including a 9G Kuro. I have found multiple settings I really like including the ones I entered last night. Many I believe are much better then default. After each settings I check my blacks using a 16-235 image to make sure they are not crushed a long with some reference material to see how the colors are working. This generally helps me decide. No one should deny a calibration done with equipment will be best case scenario but people can benefit from the posted settings.

I just wish the first page was updated with all the threads calibration settings as opposed to just the ones on main page. There are some gems hidden about this thread and it certainly doesn't hurt to try them. Just takes a little time.

yeah, but with most models there seems to be a consensus about good settings, whereas in here Larry said that he himself has witnessed his original ideal settigns not work out well on another of the same model. So it seems that there's less of a chance of finding any which will work for many. And with so many settings to change it would take forever to go through many people's settings. there are 30 settings just for the white balance 10 point.

Just tried these on my new PN51D7000 and they look great!
Best settings yet for my TV.
Thanks for posting these, and thanks to Chad B for the excellent calibration.

I hope to check my current hours soon, and then will take a shot of the MLL and report back. (in fL )

Larry is referring to color accuracy and the fine tuning done with measurements, which is the calibrators goal. The consensus should read if it looks better in your eyes it is better to you. Its all about preference. If you do not have time to try various settings, then you have 2 options. Enjoy stock, or get calibrated. I have tried probably all settings, and I am pretty sure my lifestyle is significantly busier then most.

TheBrandon,

I'll even go one step further and say that anyone who has not spent time with a calibrated (with instrumentation) TV may only notice differences in screen brightness/contrast or what otherwise is called "pop."

I doubt that a novice would notice any differences in color gamut, gamma tracking, and maybe even grayscale -- even though correct grayscale is one of the most important factors. I'll even state that many who are not familiar with a properly adjusted grayscale will find it too red or too yellow. They will prefer a more bluish tone.

So, yes. I recommend trying all the posted calibrations for a particular model and picking the one that satisfies.

If anyone wants a few more calibrated D7000 settings, let me know. However, the end result of each is the same. (If this last sentence seems strange, please do not ask me to explain. It is too fundamental.)

Larry