Samsung D7000 & D8000 Settings/Calibration Thread - Page 48

Go here: http://spearsandmunsil.com/ and you will find plenty of info. What exactly were you expecting from the disc? What is missing that you thought was on the disc?

Hey all - my Samsung pn51 d7000 arrived this Monday. I have tried TiVo, cue, and larry's settings and they all seem awfully dark overall compared to my 6 year old Panny. Eco etc is turned off. What gives? The picture is just dark and after reading this entire thread Larry talked about liking the darker setting - but my question is, how can I tell if it is something wrong with my tv or if I was just used to watching a brighter tv for too long? Does anyone have good settings for my tv model in a room with a lot of light? Tivos just looks terrible. Larry's looks sharp but too dark. Can I just ramp up cell light and gamma on larry's to compensate?

Janos,


Done. First thing I noticed was no more "pinking" with a WTW input. WTW stays at 100% white.



The default coordinates of the patch are x = y = 0.287 which is typical for a "Cool" color temperature.

As it is, I cannot achieve x = 0.313 and y = 0.329. When changing the gains, the coordinate point hardly changes at all. In order to reach the D65 coordinate values, I have to change the SCC mode setting to Movie from its default Dynamic. This does not effect the x = y = 0.287 value but permits the gain range to be modified to achieve the D65 values. Doing it this way, I end up with Red gain = 128, Green gain = 122, and Blue gain = 75.

Are these reasonable values? Have you actually done it the way your instructions say?


I've set the service menu gains all back to 128 and re-calibrated the user menu Warm2 until I get guidance.


Thanks,
Larry

I figured it out - once I tested the ps3 with tivos settings it was nice. Have to fuss around with directv box.

You're overreacting, Willy. Everything thing you need to know about what you can do with the disc is right there in front of you in script and graphics. Your question was "Maybe there is a manual out there somewhere on how to use the darn thing?" and I gave you the answer.

Sounds good.


Sounds normal.


It's not good.

Which type of device you used as a "pattern generator" and what was your output signal format (YCC, 16-235 or 0-255 RGB) during the ADC and/or WB calibration?

But I think I know what was the problem: Dynamic mode uses Limited RGB settings and Contrast 100, Brightness 45 by default. It can cause some near-white clipping (mostly the Limited RGB setting).


Forget it! It sounds worse than the casual calibration. This mode switching didn't solve the Limited vs Full range problem if this was the case.


More or less, but read above: forget this setup.


I did the same before.

Did you reset your ADC Results as well or you kept the new values?
What ADC Results did you get?


No, but this is the closest iteration of what I did (what you can do without using the Top Debug Menu...).

And I did a paid calibration today with the same principles but slightly differently.


I1: skipped the ADC calibration because I used a notebook which doesn't have a HDMI output and the client had a WDTV device which can output YCC only (no RGB at all) but it seemed to clip some of the whiter-than-white range, so I didn't trust in it. (Yah, I know... but I broke my last notebook -I mean physical damage- and got a cheap replacement without considering this small HDMI thing for the future. )


2: Because I didn't really trust in the Dynamic mode (I was lazy to solder on a nice VGA plug to my serial cable and I didn't want to freak out the poor man by plugging in some naked wires to his VGA port. ) and I was limited to YCC too, I decided to set up the white point chromaticity at 100% (8-bit level 235) for the Service Menu base WB Gains.


I did a factory reset and set Movie mode to Cool. It was still very close to my target (it was in the measurement accuracy and control precision range).

I played many with the 10p settings, it was a bit rough (compared to mine, but not like a VT30...). The Color Space was a child-play.

I also calibrated the 3D mode as much as it could be -> the Custom color is shared, so 2p WP (through the glasses, of course).


We subjectively evaluated the calibration with the usual test patterns (like color gradients) and some random Movies.


The charts looked good, the synthetic test patterns looked OK, movies looked great. -> End of the story.


---

I suggest you to buy a stupid Nokia CA-42 cable (even a fake will do, I accidentally got one of those) and fire up Putty for the TDM.
It will save you some time and it's convenient to use for "ultimate" calibration.

Or do what I did today. (With or without a fresh ADC calibration, the important part was to avoid the Limites-vs-Full problem cause by the factory default Dynamic mode when you go to the SM -> so use lower IRE for the WB calibration...)

Janos,

I used a laptop computer with an HDMI plugged into the TV HDMI/DVI (number 1) input. The computer output was set for 0-255. The output was clean without any distortion due to computer calibration.

The pattern for the HDMI calibration was your 1-235 square. The low and high ADC results were 132 and 70 respectfully. Before this calibration they were 131 and 50.

The attempt to do the WB calibration was done with the same setup but with your 255 pattern.

I left the ADC results as calibrated with your 1-235 pattern. The final full calibration using the normal user controls yielded a nice flat gamma of 2.31 and a grayscale with deltaE below 1 from 20 to 100% stimulus. A grayscale ramp looks very smooth. With a grayscale step pattern, there are no discernable color regions as expected. The gamut adjustment was as easy as ever.


Larry

My Results are 130-71.
I got these after I modified the tolerance values to 0 (default is 2). This was when the debug log reported perfect 4:4-940:940 alignment. But it shouldn't make a big difference.

I am glad you are happy with your results.

For me, the above mentioned procedure (the original with Cool color tone - reseted Warm2 for me) yielded a small but noticeable improvement over the old calibration which didn't involve the SM WB submenu. Nothing ground-braking or "can't live without" but I think I reached the point where I simply can't tweak it anymore. And I am happy with the result.

Yeah, I considered reducing the tolerance down to 1 or even 0 but since now that I see no banding in the grayscale ramp, I'll just leave it where it is. Getting rid of any banding was my main goal for this exercise and now that it has been accomplished it's time to watch a movie.

Larry

Be carefull with the tolerances though. Setting it lower will easily cause FAILED state unless you use the correct pattern. The calibration couldn't result in perfect 4:4-940:940 alignment when I tried to use 0-255 or 16-235 patterns.

The TDM game wasn't useless afterall, it helped me learn a lot about the display's behaviour.

Could someone please make a poll on the settings of the famous 4 from the first page?

I think it is strange that the professional calibrators that TiVoHd and cue03 used did not enable the game mode to get rid off the DNR.

This are the settings used by hdtvtest http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...5620125&type=1

And this are the review explaining that game mode has to be enabled to turn DNR off completely http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/samsu...1107011257.htm

Interesting, HDTV Test uses Standard mode (with Warm 2) and Cinema Smooth in their recommended settings, at least for 3D.

The "rogue noise reduction" was a software bug but it had been fixed since then.
You could always turn it OFF manually (but you had to do it after every reboots or input switches).
And I think it affected the EU models only.

Standard for 3D? It is indeed interesting. You don't have 10p controls for 3D anyway, so you are not limited to Movie. I don't know what they liked better about Standard.

The thing that pisses me off the most with this TV is that it is almost a little computer, but still they have not included the option to make several templates to quickly switch between the different calibration settings.

For example movie 1 movie 2 movie 3 and so on!
where i could have TiVoHD settings on movie 1 and zoyd on 2 and cue03 on 3 so i could quickly switch between them to compare.
With only one movie you have forgot how the first one was by the time you put in the numers for the second

Yes, I also miss this freedom.
I have to use two HDMI cables between the TV and the PC because I have one calibration memory per inputs because different refresh rate modes require different calibration settings. But they must know this and that media players can switch automatically.
And 3D would require a third cable because the Custom color space is shared with the 2D mode. But I don't really care about that right now.

They should include some dummy Dynamic, Standard, Movie with basic controls + 6 Custom modes (day/night-60/96/100Hz) which can be freely renamed and calibrated.
These Custom modes should be fully independent from each others and all factory settings like the Base WB controls or the ADC calibration in the SM. (They should let you set up everything from the user menu, starting from the very basics.)
And they should build in the controls in a way which doesn't let you overshoot the digital ranges (like when you go above 128 with a Base WB Gain or you cause the same with the user menu Gain or Contrast controls...).

So, do people here recommend changing those RGB gains to 128 in the service menu before calibrating?

Could not agree more

Better than leaving them on factory values, I guess.

But I think it's even better to follow this with an exception: If you use the Service Menu (which resets to default Dynamic mode with Low HDMI settings) then set up the White Balance with a 90% gray pattern instead of my 255 patch (or switch to YCC format after you finished the ADC calibration with the Full Rang RGB signal and use 100% YCC = 235 level instead of 109% whiter-than-white.)

Hey all, getting the PN59D8000 in about a week and am very excited for it, major upgrade to the Rear Projection one I've had for 7 years now.

Anyway, I was wondering if there was some consensus on what the best settings were from the contributors in this thread, from skimming at least 20 pages I gather that Larry, Cue, and Tivo posted some pretty well liked settings. Anyone else? Much appreciated.

I've seen some compliments for varkeast:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post20663429

I would recommend using Movie mode, Warm 1, brightness 54, gamma -1, color 47, sharpness 0, contrast 80-90, cell light depends on how bright you need it in your room. Turn off ALL of the enhancement settings, etc.

I assume all the settings listed in the first post are up to date? I am going to a friends house tonight to adjust his new 7000. I am planning on trying a few of the peoples settings listed in the first post.

Should I use Larry's settings since he is the only one in the list that has a 7000? I know the 7000 and 8000 are similar but I remember reading in this thread that there was some differences with calibration. My friend likes a bright picture so I am a bit concerned about Larry using a cell light of only 15. When I adjusted a different friends 8000 I noticed that lowering the cell light below 20 dimmed the picture considerably.

Thanks. Not sure why I didn't go to their website - brain spasm I guess.

There is quite a bit of info on their website which helps and I also found another thread on AVS in the calibration area: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1206484

EDIT: There is another AVS thread here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ars+and+munsil

I think I have everything I need now.

Thanks TiVoHD. I appreciate it.

I printed out Larry's 10/19 settings and I am going to try them. He mentioned that I can raise the contrast to 95 and that should give @37ftl. I understand that every panel is different and odds are his settings won't work perfectly with my friends 7000. I hope they look at least decent though. I own an Eye One LT but I don't have the time to do a full blown calibration right now. Plus his set is brand new and I would rather wait until it has a few hundred hours it before I spend the time calibrating it.

Set brightness, contrast, and color with the Rec709 AVS disc, and it will look "decent".

I would also love to see an updated list of current calibrations. I just purchased a PN51d8000 and I'm using CNET's calibration. I do like how the picture looks but I would love to mess around with some movie and settings and some for standard TV also

Need a bit of help. Love the set I have the 7000
I am noticing a very strange phenomenon with certain programs or discs.
Image Trails
Or Image retention.
As soon as something moves I see an slight image of where they were for a moment after.

It seems to happen with Some blu rays with low bitrate and some tv programs usually poor broadcast signals

Just watched superman 1 and i saw it for 90 mins
Put on 2 and 3 and it was gone

Also saw it on amchd watching breaking bad this past season
Anyone else seeing this ?

Also, the 24p doesn't look as great as I would have hoped.
I've seen great 24p on my cousins Samsung LCD (120htz) but mine , while the picture destroys his, doesn't seem to produce e this well at all

Please let me know of this is just me.
Thanks

Wes