Samsung D7000 & D8000 Settings/Calibration Thread - Page 50

And on my PN51D8000 the Magenta "Green" control is set at 5.

You people are spinning your wheels. Using calibration settings from someone else's display is not calibrating your TV, not even close. Do yourselves a huge favor and download the AVSHD disc and accompanying Patterns Manual. This should help.

How well do D7000 settings translate from set to set? I know there is some panel variation, but in most cases do you think copying settings from another set will improve upon default Movie-Warm2's accuracy/greyscale/etc?

I've been debating between the GT-30 and the D7000. The GT-30 has THX mode which is accurate, but cannot be finely tuned. The D7000 has the comparatively less accurate Movie/Warm2, but can be adjusted by pro calibrators...

But for the average joe like me, who is already stretching the budget and won't be stretching it more with a professional calibration, I'm wondering if copying others settings may actually make Movie Warm2 even less accurate than it is OOTB.

You're taking the fun out of a calibration thread. I think I have all the patterns to set basic brightness, contrast, sharpness, etc. But I don't have the extra cash for either the meters or the professional service to get into the details of color accuracy. So it's either play with these forums or do nothing. And since it really is all about entertainment, I'm ok with the forums. Understand your point though.

I agree with both Buzzard and JCarls. I was on the fence as far as having a professional calibration performed. I messed around with 5-7 different settings that I came across on these fine web forums. It was kind of fun checking out everybodys settings to see if you could find the one that fits, if you know what I mean. Very cool of you guys to spend the time and post everything.

I relized that I wasn't going to be satisfied until I coughed up the dough to bring in the pro. Found infomation on Pat Bradley, who I would assume many of you are familiar with.Video Calibration & Consulting. hdtvguy.com We both reside in the Minneapolis area , so it was a good fit. Pat did a fantastic job. Everyone's heard the saying ' Film Like', well this is what I wound up with. Great pop, story in its self. The calibrated settings are quite different than the previous. No use of warm 1 or 2 and 10 point scale turned off to give you a couple of examples. By the way, the display is a 64d8000 set in a fairly dark room.

I also use Cool but why did he omit the 10p controls?

I recently got a PN51d6900(6500) and I'm finding the biggest setting that makes a difference is HDMI Black Level.
On the PS3 HDMI Back Level set to 'Low' seems to look best.
But when playing films via USB stick the HDMI Black level can't be controlled and is grayed out to 'Normal' (and in general looks better then streaming via any PS3 setting).
Yet with all other settings the same, the PS3 looks horrible with 'Normal' black levels. Not sure whats causing the difference.

Some reviewers say that HDMI Black Level should be 'Normal' (unless they mean its grayed to Normal). I think depending on the source this can look horrible so it would be helpful if they stated what source their settings are for.

Anyone else find this with the PS3 that it should be set to HDMI BL Low?

As I've said a few times before in this thread, sharing calibrated settings within the D7000 model does not work well. The "service menu offset method" developed by D-Nice when applied to Panasonics before this model year worked very well and I was able to demonstrate this on a number of Panasonic models. However, this technique is not possible with the Samsungs.

Again, I do not recommend copying settings for the Samsungs. I had that suspicion early in this model year when I used other D7000 owners calibrated values and found that they did not work on my D7000. That suspicion was further confirmed whey my panel was replaced because of the peeling issue. My original calibrated settings did not function correctly on my new panel. I posted the calibration results graphically showing the differences months ago in this thread.


EDIT: When I use the word "calibration", I mean calibration with instruments -- in my case an i1 Pro spectroradiometer and an i1 D2 (LT) colorimeter profiled to that spectroradiometer.


Larry

Generally for the D7000 and D8000, regular white balance settings and 10 point settings do not carry over well from set to set. Also generally for those models within the same model, CMS, sharpness, and brightness can carry over somewhat well. Case in point: I calibrated a D8000 the other day whose owner found settings for another D8000 that I actually had calibrated. He put those settings in his set, and his grayscale and gamma were whacked out (probably worse than default settings), but his CMS was awfully good with the exception of Cyan and Magenta tint which were messed up by the bad grayscale.

Originally Posted by chris62
No use of warm 1 or 2 and 10 point scale turned off to give you a couple of examples. By the way, the display is a 64d8000 set in a fairly dark room.


Mystery to me also.. did it to all the inputs

Whatever he did, it looks perfect.

Check out his credentials, He has been doing this stuff a long time.

To add to the previous posts:

Warm 2 is normally selected first by calibrators because it "should" set the white point closer to D65 (which is what we calibrate to) than the other temperature settings. If not, we try the others and choose the one closest. Once the 2 point white balance controls are calibrated the 10 point grayscale/gamma controls are used to smooth up the rough spots and I have yet to see a Samsung that doesn't require these adjustments. The good news is that the Samsung 6 series and higher calibrate very well.

I picked up the new issue of home theater magazine last night and there is a top pick review on the 59d8000.

Their calibrator wrote: I didnt need to use the 10 point feature to obtain the after calibration result; I only used the 2 point settings; (previous experiance with samsung 10 point controls showed them to be very effective, but the control that affects a givin ire level was often one step removed from the intuitive one-that is, interval 5 would work best for adjusting 60 ire, interval 6 for 70 ire, ect.


To me, this might as well be writtin in chinese, but to you guys it could make sense?

Yes, when the contrast is turned too low that will happen, making it hard or impossible to adjust the 10 pt correctly. Fortunately, the contrast is OK left high (in the 90s) and the 10 pt is effective then.

Am I supposed to understand what this means?

I know what you mean by full RGB (0-255) versus limited colorspace (16-235), but the television itself doesn't have these settings in the normal menus, only my PS3 does, and I keep it on limited.

Are you saying that the service menu has the option to change these things?

Oh, Chad, THIS is interesting and I wonder, if changing the contrastlevels would make a difference on my PK350, cause there I am stuck wih a big green error at IRE13. You just gave me an idea, how it might be possible to get rid of this error. (The rest of the greyscale, not speaking of IRE1, is perfect)

Sorry for OffTopic.

Put up a 21 point grayscale step pattern and one at a time temporarily run the 1st, 2nd,and 3rd adjustment interval red levels to maximum. This will show where the controls are being effective.

On my D7000 at low stimuli output (under 30 ftL) the low end of the 10 point controls work fine but above about the fifth interval, they are offset as Chris mentioned in the post above. With higher peak outputs the intervals match up with the stimulus.


Larry

SM - No ; TDM and User Menu - Yes (HDMI Black: Normal=Full, Low=Limited)
If you want to use the ADC pattern from that package, you need to output RGB Full (the calibration aligns R=G=B=1 and R=G=B=235 points. You can't place the first in a limited range signal).

Confused as to why you would just run 1st, 2nd, and 3rd levels when you don't find a discontinuity until the ~5th level. Or do you just not calibrate under 30 ftL?

I wonder what happens to the calibration if you calibrate at higher ftL but then watch TV on lower ftL setting. Anybody know the definitive answer?

Turrican4D is having problems with the lower intervals on his European model. He does not have a D7000 and I was just pointing out a difference in the behavior of the units.


Yes, I have a definitive answer. If you calibrate at a high output level and then reduce the contrast to achieve a lower level, the calibration is compromised. In particular, the grayscale tracking goes to hell. Lowering the Cell Light, however, seems to have much less detrimental effect and is what I recommend if you are going to do it that way. But check the calibration settings when you are at the lower level and make corrections as needed.

Larry

Thanks.

Yes, I only adjust Cell Light between day and night viewing. Never contrast.

I haven't figured out if it is that I'm too lazy to check if the calibration I do at Cell Light setting 14 is good at 10 or 20 or if it is that I don't want to know.

Hello to everyone.
Can you tell me please how do I factory reset the Samsung D8000?
Thanks and sorry for my bad English ...

What's the latest firmware for the D7000?
Thanks in advance

Does anyone use GAME MODE? I haven't noticed imporvement in lag when playing MW3 so far (haven't really noticed any lag on any setting) but I think it says that its suppose to. Is it recommended to use this mode or not for games especially like COD? I'm wondering because appearance of the game seems a bit worse even after tweaking the settings but maybe its worth it if there is a decrease in lag. Anyone know what this mode actually changes that is suppose to make the difference? Haven't been able to find any good info on this Game Mode option.

Ugh, wrong thread, apologies.

I use it, but more so because I have different picture settings for when I play games than when I watch movies. The lag reduction thing is good too (when all other processes are shut off, there's a slight improvement).

Thanks guys. I tried both Tivos and Cues settings on my 64D8000. My room is pretty bright during the day even with the blinds closed. Both settings work equally well with a few minor adjustments. My final tweaking was done by placing my Liverpool FC shrt over the screen and pausing the moment Suarez was subbed. Looks to be a perfect match now

ROBY7108 you can Reset Factory your D8000, with the sequence:

INFO MENU MUTE POWER

BUT is not a god advice to do it.
A tecnician did that on my TV and I loos all the crispness of my TV. Disasterous.

I try to other post for requiring hep to my TV.

Hey guys, can someone give me info on what settings i should have my PND8000 for the first 100 hours(breaking in period). Thanks

Also, i should calibrate it after i break it in, right?

I suggest to do a basic calibration (set Cell Light to a comfortable level + Contrast, brightness, color, tint with the AVS disc + 2p white balance with a sensor but skip the 10p gray and Custom color space controls), use it normally + run some break-in slides when you don't need it as a TV. Priodically check the white point chromaticity and do a full calibration from scratch (start with a reset) when it seems to be fairly stable.

I had a stuck pixel that showed up once then dissappeared only to show itself a few days later. I placed a rag over the screen, then I thumped the spot with the stuck pixel. It went away and hasn't been back. So even though there is a layer of glass between the thump worked. You can imagine how glad I am as I like many of you would be fixated on it with every dark scene. The pixel was green.

Thanks. I wonder if its just certain settings that I would be able to turn off while being in regular movie mode.