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Samsung D7000 & D8000 Settings/Calibration Thread - Page 6

post #151 of 3298
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spanky Deluxe View Post

I don't think Tivo's settings result in as bright a picture for 3D.

I don't think you'll see a bright picture with 3D regardless of the settings because the glasses just block too much light. I wish we could crank the cell light up to about 30 for 3D viewing, but sadly that's not an option. This is definitely the brightest picture I've ever seen on a plasma (with cell light at 20), but brighter would be better for 3D.
post #152 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by mirak View Post

The settings suggested in this thread look pretty good for TV, but they look terrible playing blu rays on my HTPC. Switching to the default Standard settings with cell light turned up actually looks quite a bit better. It occurred to me that maybe this is due to output being different from the HTPC? Anybody have experience controlling that on a Win7 HTPC?

Actually can you change color settings on your cable box or dvd player too? How does a calibrator control for all of that when calibrating the TV?

For those who posted their settings, what was the source that was calibrated, and did that source have any ouput settings of its own that might make your settings look different for others?

Good questions. The settings in this thread probably apply just for the HDMI input (I know mine do) and component or PC inputs will have different calibrations. Pro-calibrators usually use signal generators while enthusiasts like me use DVD/BD players. I used a PS3 set to output YCrCb (superwhite enabled) with the AVSHD test disk for HD output. I checked the SD output as well which did not change the settings.

Cable/Sat boxes can be a problem. You can calibrate the HDMI input fine using signal generators or DVD/BD players but this assumes two things: 1) The broadcaster provides industry standard YCbCr encoded material and 2) the cable/sat box provides industry standard decoding. I generally look at national news broadcasts and the late night shows to see if a calibration has worked well for my cable box.
post #153 of 3298
How big is the difference between Warm 1 and Warm 2?
post #154 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by TiVoHD View Post

Yeah, each set is a little bit different which is why using other people's calibrated settings may not be perfect one every set. If you do end up getting your set calibrated, be sure to post your settings here so we can compare.

Jeff is supposed to be in the Mid-West in June. I'm going to have him do mine (audio/video). I hope it's not the week I'll be on vacation though.
post #155 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by TiVoHD View Post

I don't think you'll see a bright picture with 3D regardless of the settings because the glasses just block too much light. I wish we could crank the cell light up to about 30 for 3D viewing, but sadly that's not an option. This is definitely the brightest picture I've ever seen on a plasma (with cell light at 20), but brighter would be better for 3D.

I agree. The brightness of the animated 3D movies is good but the IMAX features can be a mixed bag with some scenes begging to be brighter while others look very good. Perhaps it's because the animated studios are shooting their stuff hotter for home 3D or so I've heard.
post #156 of 3298
Sorry if I missed this, but what is everyone using for Picture Options >HDMI Black Level? There are two options, 'Low' or 'Normal'. I didn't see this feature reflected on the table that was posted by one of the members.
post #157 of 3298
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zetherin View Post

Sorry if I missed this, but what is everyone using for Picture Options >HDMI Black Level? There are two options, 'Low' or 'Normal'. I didn't see this feature reflected on the table that was posted by one of the members.

The reason it's not generally posted is that it all depends on your source. Some sources don't support it at all, so it will be grayed out. If your source does support it, the setting depends on the HDMI negotiation, so you'll have to try both to see which one looks better. The only source I have that supports it is my Oppo blu-ray player, and I have it set to Low for that.
post #158 of 3298
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbug View Post

I agree. The brightness of the animated 3D movies is good but the IMAX features can be a mixed bag with some scenes begging to be brighter while others look very good. Perhaps it's because the animated studios are shooting their stuff hotter for home 3D or so I've heard.

Yeah, there definitely are some movies that look like they're intentionally tweaked to make 3D look better. For example, the letterbox bars in Tron Legacy aren't nearly as dark black as I'm used to seeing. But when you put the glasses on, they look ink black. I'm guessing that's because the contrast and brightness was tweaked for the 3D version of the movie across the board to make it look better with the glasses on.
post #159 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by TiVoHD View Post

Yeah, there definitely are some movies that look like they're intentionally tweaked to make 3D look better. For example, the letterbox bars in Tron Legacy aren't nearly as dark black as I'm used to seeing. But when you put the glasses on, they look ink black. I'm guessing that's because the contrast and brightness was tweaked for the 3D version of the movie across the board to make it look better with the glasses on.

I think or thought it was the TV that makes it brighter when you switch 3D on, not the source. When I turn 3D on for the DirecTV 3D channels the picture looks to gets brighter at that point to compensate.
post #160 of 3298
Something I noticed today and maybe it's been mentioned. I was watching Sportcenter and the marquee was juddering(right term?) badly on Auto1. Worked fine with it being off and Auto2.
post #161 of 3298
This question is for the guys that are using the setting provided in this thread. Are you using the settings for all sources: Blu-ray and TV? Does TV need different settings?
post #162 of 3298
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaychamp View Post

I think or thought it was the TV that makes it brighter when you switch 3D on, not the source. When I turn 3D on for the DirecTV 3D channels the picture looks to gets brighter at that point to compensate.

Could be. I assumed it was the movies themselves since I don't see the brightening on all 3D movies. But it could very well be the TV.
post #163 of 3298
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dandaroy View Post

Are you using the settings for all sources: Blu-ray and TV? Does TV need different settings?

All of my sources go through a receiver, so they all share a single HDMI input on the TV. In other words, I'm using the same settings for everything.
post #164 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by TiVoHD View Post

All of my sources go through a receiver, so they all share a single HDMI input on the TV. In other words, I'm using the same settings for everything.

So it appears like you are happy with your settings for TV watching as well.
post #165 of 3298
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dandaroy View Post

So it appears like you are happy with your settings for TV watching as well.

Correct.
post #166 of 3298
quick question

I have the PN51D7000

I found 10 point section in menu, but I don't have the options to change all those settings in the guide.....


Thanks
post #167 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by TiVoHD View Post

Correct.

Thanks. I will give the settings a shot. Right now, the default movie setting looks OK (with sharpness minimized and all junk options off) on blu-ray. But with TV, the pic looks yellowish and pale. When I switch to standard, the picture looks vibrant, but the skin tones are orangey and oversaturated.

I had a few Samsung LCDs before the standard movie setting looked OK with TV as well. Go figure! Must be a plasma thang!
post #168 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by KroLeXz View Post

quick question

I have the PN51D7000

I found 10 point section in menu, but I don't have the options to change all those settings in the guide.....


Thanks

Only is available in Movie mode.
post #169 of 3298
Pretty sure I'm in movie mode... I could everything except when I got to the 10 point section it only show red green blue...
post #170 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by KroLeXz View Post

Pretty sure I'm in movie mode... I could everything except when I got to the 10 point section it only show red green blue...

Theres an "Interval: 1" option, change that to 2, 3, 4...etc to set all the settings
post #171 of 3298
My tv just pushed update 1013, family guy isnt the most detailed show but the colors look untouched.
post #172 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by TiVoHD View Post

Correct.

I tried your settings on my new smart tv D8000. Can I use your settings for a room with low light?

Also what options do i change so when something moves fast on screen it doesnt ghost. I want it to move freely without any jitter. I hope you know what I mean.
post #173 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by TiVoHD View Post

Rather than have people post calibration settings in the general owner's thread where they'll get buried, I figured I'd start a new thread specifically for calibration settings. I figure it makes sense to have people post their settings for both the D7000 & D8000 models since they essentially use the same panel. If anyone tries any of the settings that are posted here, please report back. It will be interesting to see how well the settings transfer between individual sets and sizes.

My PN64D8000 was calibrated by Gregg Loewen from Lion AV. He did a great job and kept me informed about what he was doing every step of the way. The gray-scale and colors ended up spot on.

Here are the settings that I ended up with after the calibration. I've also attached the before and after charts for reference.


Movie Mode
Cell light 20
contrast 96
brightness 54
sharpness 0
color 50
tint 50/50
black tone off
dynamic off
gamma -1
RGB only mode off
flesh tone 0
edge enhance off
motion lighting off
xvYcc off
color tone warm2
digital noise off
mpeg noise off

Color Space - Custom
Red_r 48
Red_g 6
Red_b 6
Green_r 20
Green_g 54
Green_b 3
Blue_r 3
Blue_g 3
Blue_b 50
Yellow_r 53
Yellow_g 53
Yellow_b 6
Cyan_r 17
Cyan_g 52
Cyan_b 52
Magenta_r 47
Magenta_g 8
Magenta_b 57

White Balance
r-off 26
g-off 25
b-off 22
r-gain 13
g-gain 25
b-gain 29

10-point
r1 0
g1 0
b1 0
r2 0
g2 0
b2 0
r3 1
g3 0
b3 0
r4 0
g4 0
b4 0
r5 0
g5 1
b5 2
r6 -2
g6 0
b6 0
r7 1
g7 2
b7 2
r8 -2
g8 0
b8 0
r9 0
g9 2
b9 -2
r10 0
g10 2
b10 -2

i tried these settings on my new D8000 but its the led lcd. not a plasma. would these options still be ok for me or what do i change them to?
post #174 of 3298
The screens are entirely different and those settings are almost certainly very different. You would change them to whatever a calibrated UNXXD8000 has. Look for that thread for your answers.
post #175 of 3298
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SamsungD8000 View Post

I tried your settings on my new smart tv D8000. Can I use your settings for a room with low light?

Also what options do i change so when something moves fast on screen it doesnt ghost. I want it to move freely without any jitter. I hope you know what I mean.

From your other post, it sounds like you have an LCD, so these settings probably won't work for you.

The ghosting that you're seeing is inherent to LCD panels. That's one of the major reasons I stick with plasma.
post #176 of 3298
For the led lcd motion this is what fixed it for me guys:

Auto motion plus: Custom
Blur reduction: 10
Judder reduction: 7

Also if you want:

LED Motion Plus: Cinema



Thanks guys I might open another thread for the LED LCD D8000. Here are the settings I used and they look great:




--Picture menu
Mode: Movie
Backlight: 10
Contrast: 96
Brightness: 51
Sharpness: 0
Color: 47
Tint: G50/R50

Screen adjustment submenu:
Picture Size: Screen Fit
Position: [no change]

Auto Adjustment submenu: [Grayed out]

Advanced settings submenu:
Black tone: Off
Dynamic contrast: Off
Gamma: -1
Expert Pattern: Off
RGB Only Mode: Off
Color space: Custom
White Balance: [see below]
10p White Balance: On
Flesh tone: 0
Edge enhancement: Off
Motion Lighting: Off
xvYCC: Off
LED Motion Plus: Cinema

Color Space submenu:
Red: Red 59, Green 0, Blue 0
Green: Red 10, Green 55, Blue 10
Blue: Red 0, Green 6, Blue 61
Yellow: Red 53, Green 50, Blue 0
Cyan: Red 4, Green 49, Blue 50
Magenta: Red 37, Green 4, Blue 41

White balance submenu:
R-Offset: 19
G-Offset: 18
B-Offset: 20
R-Gain: 31
G-Gain: 29
B-Gain: 24

10p White Balance submenu:
Interval 1: Red 2, Green 2, Blue 2
Interval 2: Red -1, Green -1, Blue -1
Interval 3: Red 1, Green 1, Blue 0
Interval 4: Red 3, Green 3, Blue 2
Interval 5: Red 6, Green 4, Blue 3
Interval 6: Red 7, Green 6, Blue 4
Interval 7: Red 5, Green 6, Blue 4
Interval 8: Red 3, Green 3, Blue 2
Interval 9: Red 1, Green 1, Blue 0
Interval 10: Red -2, Green 0, Blue -1

Picture options submenu
Color tone: Warm2
Digital Noise Filter: Off
MPEG Noise Filter: Off
HDMI black level: Normal [grayed out]
Film mode: Off [grayed out]
Auto motion plus: Custom
-- Custom settings:
Blur reduction: 10
Judder reduction: 0
Smart LED: Standard
Cinema Black: On
post #177 of 3298
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SamsungD8000 View Post

Thanks guys I might open another thread for the LED LCD D8000. Here are the settings I used and they look great:

Yeah, you should definitely open a separate thread, or look in the LCD area to see if there already is one. Your settings won't really mean anything to us since this is a plasma thread.
post #178 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by TiVoHD View Post

I didn't bother with break-in settings because I don't think it's necessary. I did run the slides, but only because I wanted to rack up hours on the panel to ensure the colors were stable before paying for a professional calibration.

I understand that break-in settings are not necessary for modern plasmas but is it recommended to run slides before using the calibration settings posted on this thread?
post #179 of 3298
I just did a very quick calibration on my 64D7000. I used my certified i1 Pro and then I used my i1 LT for better low luminance level readings. The LT was profiled to the Pro.

My basic setting which yield a peak output of about 27 ftL are:
Cell Light = 15
Contrast = 78
Brightness = 62
Sharpness = 0
Color = 44
Tint = 50/50


The TV has only about 40 to 50 hours on it so, at this time, I will not be posting advanced settings. I'll wait until it has a few hundred hours. I am not using any break-in slides since I am not trying to reproduce anyone's calibration as is done for the D-Nice method.

There are a few items that are worth mentioning though.

1) The grayscale adjustments are a pleasure to use. With the 10 point controls, it is easy to achieve a ΔE of below 2 from stimuli of 20 to 100%.

2) The Brightness needs to be put at 62 when using the AVSHD disk. This is a significant difference from the previous calibrations posted for the D8000.

3) The gamma setting in the Advanced menu yields a value of about 2.35 when the control is set at zero. A setting of +1 gives a relatively nice smooth gamma of about 2.2. This also seems to be different from the D8000.

4) The minimum luminance level with a 0% stimulus window measured 0.010 ftL using my i1Pro. However, with the i1 LT, the highest that I measured was 0.005 ftL. I checked my LT against a known level on my Panasonic 50X1 and the meter measured the same as it did a few months ago -- 0.024 ftL. The LT measures 0.000 cd/m^2 (or 0.000 ftL) when on a black surface. Right now, I have nothing further to add about the very low reading on the D7000 other than to say visually it looks correct.


EDIT: I love having the CAL Night and Day picture mode options.


Larry
post #180 of 3298
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dhav813 View Post

I understand that break-in settings are not necessary for modern plasmas but is it recommended to run slides before using the calibration settings posted on this thread?

No, you don't have to. The colors may shift a little bit as the phosphors age, but that shouldn't stop you from using any of the settings in this thread.
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