Samsung D7000 & D8000 Settings/Calibration Thread - Page 55

I was thinking about trying my hand at calibration and then quickly realized that it would be cost prohibitive in comparison to hiring a calibrator (who will likely have better equipment and much more experience). Most calibrators charge $300-500 for a visit. And many of them will charge a significantly reduced fee for follow up touch Ups when necessary. A calibrator I will likely use charges 400 for the initial visit and Then 100 for follow ups, probably every 18-24 months. It would take a number of years or multiple tvs for DIY to pencil out. YMMV, but that was my analysis.

Does Pixel Shift work in wide fit mode? I heard it dont in screen fit, whats the difference?

I went into the service menu to check the hours on panel. I by mistake went into the ADC/WB Mode and into the HDMI adjustment

Pressed the left arrow thinking it would take me back to the other section where you can view hours and it said calibration of hdmi please wait and a pink small box came up on the screen

It then said failure and now every mode, movie, normal, cal day and night and dynamic all look pink

What do I do to get it back

I went back into that mode called HDMI calibration and pressed right this time and it went back to Wait and pink box on the screen and turns back to normal colors but when you turn off tv to get rid of service menu and turn it back on it goes back to pink colors

Please help.

I went back to hdmi calibration and it says failure and ran it again 5 times and it failed each time. While it said to WAIT it showed correct colors and then failed. But the 6th time it said success and colors are back to normal. The issue now is that the hdmi black level is on normal when it always was on low. putting direct tv on low like it always was put horrible black crush. even on normal it looks to dark. Same with xbox, it was on low and reference levels on standard and now it defaults to normal and looks dark and i put it on low and crushes black even on standard reference levels. Seems like hdmi black level is acting up.

Dors pixel shift work in wide fit?

ok, you have two different issues here that are unrelated. Let's do the HDMI level first because it's easier. ADC calibration does not control HDMI low/normal setting, that is determined by the device that is using that input. If the device negotiates the level for you (usually normal) it will be greyed out and not adjustable. This is normal and you should set your brightness level using a test disk. If it isn't automatically negotiated you will be able to select either low or normal. If your device outputs limited range RGB you select low, if it outputs full range RGB or YCbCr you select normal. Again, you should set brightness using a test disk after setting HDMI level.

The second issue is the ADC calibration. If you find that after you have fixed brightness and HDMI level that things are not back to the way they used to be regarding picture quality we can walk through the ADC calibration using a checkerboard pattern.

NJPapi1977, I'm sorry that I don't have the answer for you, but unfortunately many here won't have sympathy for you either. The service menu isn't easily accessible for a reason, and you have to be really damn certain that you do the right thing while you're messing around in there to get what it is that you absolutely desire.

That being said, I'm never entering that menu. I'll give myself +/- 200 hours on my estimation for good measure, and that's good enough for me (this is a guy who has definitely used it for less than 1,000, even with a +200 offset).

Hi Zoyd,

Ok in terms of hmdi black level it has never been greyed out.

I use direct tv dvr with hdmi

I use xbox with hdmi

I use blu ray with hdmi

In direct tv it always is on hdmi black level low, if I was to put it before the issues on normal, the picture would be washed out.

Same for the xbox 360


After this mess, when I reset the tv from service menu. The direct tv and xbox now default to normal and black crush. even becomes worst in low

I am using the same picture settings from before today

You are probably going to have to make a test disk but try this first. Using HDMI normal from your direct tv box find a channel that has black bars above and below. Turn brightness up just until you see a few green pixels light up in the black areas. Turn brightness down 2 clicks from here. Write down your original and final brightness values.

I do not think the issue lies with brightness settings or what not

I have always had the tv set up the same way with cnet settings and after getting the hdmi calibration failure the whole thing is messed up

At first it was all pink colors and then it said hdmi calibration successful and colors were fine and normal again but hdmi black level went from low default to normal now and horrible black crush

Man I am depressed with my set. The HDMI calibration setting in the Service Menu now says success but the hdmi black level defaults to normal when before it went to low. Now Normal looks like low with high dynamic contrast. the white is blinding white. HDMI black level low is incredibly crushed

Dont know what to do. I ran the checkerboard during hdmi calibration in service menu and it failed each time. Only running hdmi calibration in default settings allowed it to succeed

Normal HDMI black level on on direct tv has black crush and white is so damm bright. same with gaming.

Papi,

What checkerboard pattern did you use?

The attached is the one that should fix all your problems. You must display it through the HDMI #1 input and then perform the ADC HDMI calibration while it is on screen.

You probably will have to burn the image onto a disk and display it through your BD/DVD player connected through HDMI #1 input. (There are other ways but to get your set back on track this is the easiest.)


EDIT: It's best to output 720p from the player for this procedure.


Larry

You also have to do it in movie mode, from your description of the problem you are having it sounds like you calibrated ADC in dynamic mode, that will definitely screw up your contrast scale.


(by the way, why didn't you put this info in your first post?)

Alternatively, if you can't figure out how to do an ADC calibration in movie mode you can do the following in the service menu:

ADC/WB->ADC Result->

Change 2nd_R_L, 2nd_G_L, 2nd_B_L to 131
Change 2nd_R_H, 2nd_G_H, 2nd_B_H to 107 if you have a D8000, 71 if you have a D7000.

Im going to do it myself.
I'm also a photographer, calibrating is something pretty core for me to learn anyway. And I've always wanted to

Plus with this set, I'll have a blast learning.

Your suggestion probably is the best. It is easy and somewhat foolproof -- notice that I said 'somewhat.'

I can't understand the compulsion for novices to enter the service mode. Can you?

Larry

I entered the service menu to see what it looked like the other day.
I was terrified.

I ran out

I did notice settings called Delta
When calibrating , do you alter these settings?

Wes,

For the Samsung plasmas, everything that you need to adjust when calibrating with instrumentation is available in the user menu. There is no reason to enter the service menu. Unlike the Panasonic service menu, it is relatively easy to screw up your TV by entering the Samsung SM.

If you saw an item named 'Delta', you went too far for a novice. Save yourself some potential grief and pretend the service menu does not exist.

Larry

Larry and Zoyd, thank you so much for the info and I have fixed the issue.

I tried the checkerboard that Larry provided on my usb to my blu ray and it worked. But something felt off, it seemed that it was to washed out now

I then did the method zoyd stated and changed the values as he stated which were off by 1 on the first set and by 20 on the second

That fixed the issue and everything looks incredible again.

Thank You and rest assure I have learned my lesson.

Papi,

Were the values you found using the checkerboard pattern 132 and 51?

Anyway... glad that zoyd got you back to normal.

Larry

Yes indeed, why?

Haha, ok will do.
Thanks man

Zoyd explains it here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post21155928


Janos adds some more very valuable information here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post21156297


Read the whole discussion which starts a few pages before these links. You'll see that it is complicated.

The checkerboard pattern that I gave you in the attachment used a 0-255 range. Probably, I should have used the 1-235 pattern that is included in the custom package developed by janos. He links to it in the second link above.

Larry

Hey Larry, Zoyd. TiVo HD and Buzz,
I have another question to do with narrowing down which tools to buy to begin calibrating.
I've searched based in the info you've given me
Ive tracked down 4 items that are affordable
But im wondering if these were the items you were all mentioning to me....and is there one you think is best for me?

I've attached screen shots
What would you recommended I move forward with?

Any responses I appreciate greatly.

Update
I went ahead and Ordered the "i1 display pro" for $249 on Amazon
Should be here tomorrow.

Thanks Buzz and Panos and Larry and Zoyd for the advice. I copied everything you guys said and studied the hell out of it.

I'll be in touch with a variety of questions immediately following,

UPDATE 12-10-2011
Called best buy / geek squad and complained they are going to find out what happened and talk to me this week.

Fingers crossed

If I had the chance, then I would have suggested this one from your list.

This should be accurate enough for your needs. But you can improve it's accuracy by calibrating it against a spectrophotometer on one of these Samsung D-series PDP panels.

However, you also need a good software.
You could theoretically use the free ArgyllCMS solution but you need to learn a lot before you get there. (It's a package of command line tools without HDTV specific feature support.)
So, I suggest you to pick something like CalMan. The X-Rite bundle software won't be useful for you, unless all your content comes from your PC.

I am not sure if these wouldn't be cheaper as a bundle (meter+software) package from Spectracal. (But don't worry, the difference is probably a few $ only.)

I'll be interested in hearing ur results, have always been curios to get into calibration.

Maybe you shouldn't have been so hasty. As janos pointed out, for your plasma TV you still will need software to perform calibrations.

Right now, for the new OEM i1 Display colorimeter that you bought there is only one software program for you. That is the SpectraCal CalMAN calibration program. (ArgyllCMS may work with this meter but it is a command line program and not very easy to use if you are not familiar with the command line process.)

The CalMAN software is here: http://store.spectracal.com/consumer...ware-only.html. It costs $199.

However, SpectraCal offers a bundle which includes the OEM i1 Display meter and the CalMAN software for $395. It is described here: http://store.spectracal.com/calman-s...i1display.html.

There is one other option. ChromaPure offers a version of the meter that only works with their software. They call their version of the meter the i1 Display 3. You can find it at www.ChromaPure.com. This meter/software bundle sells for $440. (ChromaPure is working on a deal so that they can offer the OEM meter that will work with their software.)


Larry

For many displays the stand alone non Pro D3 needs to be profiled for accuracy. Depending on your visual results you may want to consider upgrading in the future.