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Samsung D7000 & D8000 Settings/Calibration Thread - Page 69

post #2041 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob67 View Post

LOL well ok! That was probably me. I just hit the save button as I was adjusting so maybe it didn't have the effect I intended.

Re: the color gamut, I did use 75% patterns against 75% white. I will redo to make sure I didn't use saturation slides.

Thanks!


The attachment is from your file. It shows that you used the 100% white and the 75% colors.

Larry
LL
post #2042 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post


The attachment is from your file. It shows that you used the 100% white and the 75% colors.

Larry

Buried in there is the 75% one I really used. I think I saved my initial run and realized I used a 100 white slide. The actual "Y" I had for white was 65.667.

Do you see any way to pull the green closer to spec?
post #2043 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

This one has me baffled. Here is my D7000 grayscale.

Larry

I was afraid you might say that. Your default grayscale looks similar to what mine used to be.

Well, I will surely be complaining to Samsung. I'll just need to be tactful to avoid the runaround.

He did not perform a factory reset after the replacement and I'm afraid to try it myself. He wasn't even in the SM. The replacement board didn't restore factory defaults either (no guided setup), but did reset some settings.
LL
post #2044 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob67 View Post

Buried in there is the 75% one I really used. I think I saved my initial run and realized I used a 100 white slide. The actual "Y" I had for white was 65.667.

Do you see any way to pull the green closer to spec?


Green and cyan for the D7000 are always a bit off. That's just the nature of the beast.

EDIT: Substituting 65.667 for Y made a great change. See the attachment.

Larry
LL
post #2045 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by AvidHiker View Post

I was afraid you might say that. Your default grayscale looks similar to what mine used to be.

Well, I will surely be complaining to Samsung. I'll just need to be tactful to avoid the runaround.

He did not perform a factory reset after the replacement and I'm afraid to try it myself. He wasn't even in the SM. The replacement board didn't restore factory defaults either (no guided setup), but did reset some settings.


The tech only replaced the main board. He did not replace the logic board (the little board just below the tech's left hand), correct?

The first thing I would do is a factory reset from the service menu. You can't make it worse than it is. Then, if nothing has changed in the grayscale curves, I would raise the green drive and see if you can close the gap. Use a continuous reading at 80% for this.

Larry
post #2046 of 3298
Hiker,

You may want to try this also.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post21404904

Larry
post #2047 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

Green and cyan for the D7000 are always a bit off. That's just the nature of the beast.

EDIT: Substituting 65.667 for Y made a great change. See the attachment.

Larry

Yes it did. I will try and tweak the colors this evening and clean up that CHC file!

EDIT: File cleaned up and reattached to previous post. I even tweaked my color gamut settings again after running the 75% patterns again. Not much change but tweaked blue and yellow. Also got green a tad closer. Just tightened things up a bit.

Thanks so much for everyone's help. I am pretty happy with the pic. Just watched "Fright Night" and there were a lot of dark scenes...brightness, contrast, color were all awesome. Definite improvement.

Self calibrating is the way to go if you aren't going to spring for an ISF pro.
post #2048 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

Hiker,

You may want to try this also.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post21404904

Larry

Thanks, Larry.

AFAIK, he only pulled the main board and IR sensor strip (which includes the capacitive touch sensor).

I specifically asked him if the ADC would be affected, and he didn't really answer my question. He was foreign and mostly just rambled incomprehensibly. Very sketchy - seems they just want to do the absolute minumum amount of work. You should have seen how fast he performed the repair... like his life depended on it. I was just in a hurry to get back to work, so didn't have time to really check it out before he left.
post #2049 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

The first thing I would do is a factory reset from the service menu. You can't make it worse than it is.
Larry

Now that I think about it, the tech did tell me to call him if there was any problem, so I may try that first (but I can't keep missing work for these calls!).

I know the simple (hold EXIT for 10 seconds) factory reset. I will try that unless I can find the SM reset. If you happen to know the exact location, please let me know. I have avoided the SM as I have not spent the time to learn how to navigate it without screwing everything up, and have read the horror stories.
post #2050 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob67 View Post
  • Samsung 59D7000 w/ latest firmware
  • Greyscale and gamma were a breeze on this set
  • Cyan "red" adjustment did nothing so that was off
  • Yellow was difficult
  • Green was WAY off. Any recommendations on how to fix?
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post
Green and cyan for the D7000 are always a bit off. That's just the nature of the beast.
Green & Cyan problems here too. I calibrated a PN64D7000 a couple nights ago. Although the charts look good the display is producing reddish flesh tones and the color control needed to be adjusted to 40-43 for a more pleasing picture. Reminds me of the VT30s....

 

Cal-DayReduced.pdf 445.03515625k . file
post #2051 of 3298
Picked up a Samsung 64/8000 the past week and upon familiarizing myself with the display I have run into a couple of issues which I an unable to figure out.

First I attempted to input Tom Norton's calibration settings, however for some reason I am unable to change the film mode to Cinema Smooth (grayed out using HDMI 1 for DTV). I attempted to incorporate the same setting under HDMI 2 (Blu) and the film mode is completely grayed out, no access whatsoever.

Second, upon entering the apps the calibration settings which I temporarily incorporated do not transfer over, it sets the app back to factory default however once I leave the app the custom calibration is back in place. I find this very strange and is there any way to carry over the custom calibration.

Any help would be appreciated
post #2052 of 3298
I might have the answer to this one. See if in the menu of your blu ray player there is an option to enable 1080 24p film mode that should allow the blu ray player to send the proper signal to the TV. and then you should be able to turn Cinema Smooth on. For DTV i think it's Auto 2 , someone else please correct me if I am wrong i am not sure how to get that to show properly , personally i only watch blu ray and don't have cable don't need it.
post #2053 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by rupertoooo View Post

Picked up a Samsung 64/8000 the past week and upon familiarizing myself with the display I have run into a couple of issues which I an unable to figure out.

First I attempted to input Tom Norton's calibration settings, however for some reason I am unable to change the film mode to Cinema Smooth (grayed out using HDMI 1 for DTV). I attempted to incorporate the same setting under HDMI 2 (Blu) and the film mode is completely grayed out, no access whatsoever.

Second, upon entering the apps the calibration settings which I temporarily incorporated do not transfer over, it sets the app back to factory default however once I leave the app the custom calibration is back in place. I find this very strange and is there any way to carry over the custom calibration.

Any help would be appreciated

The Cinema Smooth option is only available for 1080/24p sources. It will be greyed out otherwise. Use Auto 1 for everthing else.
post #2054 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by AvidHiker View Post

Now that I think about it, the tech did tell me to call him if there was any problem, so I may try that first (but I can't keep missing work for these calls!).

I know the simple (hold EXIT for 10 seconds) factory reset. I will try that unless I can find the SM reset. If you happen to know the exact location, please let me know. I have avoided the SM as I have not spent the time to learn how to navigate it without screwing everything up, and have read the horror stories.

Your green is a lot closer then what I was able to accomplish. I am wondering if I would have better luck adjusting the Color and Tint options more on the main settings menu? I need more red to bring green in line.

One other observation that I made this morning was the Color Space settings under the advanced menu are not independent by mode. I can't change them in "Movie" and have different settings in "Cal Day", for instance. I may have read that somewhere before. It sucks because I ran DirecTV color reads on the HDNET test patterns and they were off but perfect on PS3 Blu Ray.

Any hints welcomed.
post #2055 of 3298
Rob,

I believe that Hiker has the D8000 which can produce a closer green adjustment than the D7000. You will not be able to get green and cyan to be spot on. Don't even try. Just get the best that you can. Visually, I doubt very much that you'll be able to see the difference between what you have and perfection.

Ignore the HDnet test pattern. It's been 20 or even 30 years since the TV broadcast engineers have devoted proper attention to the specifications.

Yes, the color space is shared. There is nothing you can do about it without using a RS-232 interface.

With respect to your calibration: You did a great job. The graphs look terrific.

I have a few additional pointers, though. First, with the i1 D2 or i1 LT, a black initialization must be performed before the first run. HCFR will not let you proceed until this is done. But I recommended that this be done every 30 minutes or so -- especially every time that a full grayscale measurement is performed. This will ensure that the low luminance readings are as accurate as possible.

Second, make sure to set the "Measures/Sensor/Configure" item named "Average many reads on dark measurements" so that the box is checked. This will give more accurate readings at and below about 30% stimulus.

Third, with the D2 and LT the accuracy of the color readings is not very good at low levels. Luminance readings, however as I said, usually are quite good down there. So. from the data in your report, if you see a reddish coloration in the black and very dark grays, try reducing the red color in the 1st and maybe the 2nd 10 point intervals by one tick. A good way to check the blacks is to watch a black and white movie with the color control turned down to zero. Two excellent B&W flicks are showing on 5MAXHD Thursday morning -- 'The Keys of the Kingdom' and '13 Rue Madeleine.'

Enjoy your new TV.

Larry
post #2056 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

Rob,

I believe that Hiker has the D8000 which can produce a closer green adjustment than the D7000. You will not be able to get green and cyan to be spot on. Don't even try. Just get the best that you can. Visually, I doubt very much that you'll be able to see the difference between what you have and perfection.

Ignore the HDnet test pattern. It's been 20 or even 30 years since the TV broadcast engineers have devoted proper attention to the specifications.

Yes, the color space is shared. There is nothing you can do about it without using a RS-232 interface.

With respect to your calibration: You did a great job. The graphs look terrific.

I have a few additional pointers, though. First, with the i1 D2 or i1 LT, a black initialization must be performed before the first run. HCFR will not let you proceed until this is done. But I recommended that this be done every 30 minutes or so -- especially every time that a full grayscale measurement is performed. This will ensure that the low luminance readings are as accurate as possible.

Second, make sure to set the "Measures/Sensor/Configure" item named "Average many reads on dark measurements" so that the box is checked. This will give more accurate readings at and below about 30% stimulus.

Third, with the D2 and LT the accuracy of the color readings is not very good at low levels. Luminance readings, however as I said, usually are quite good down there. So. from the data in your report, if you see a reddish coloration in the black and very dark grays, try reducing the red color in the 1st and maybe the 2nd 10 point intervals by one tick. A good way to check the blacks is to watch a black and white movie with the color control turned down to zero. Two excellent B&W flicks are showing on 5MAXHD Thursday morning -- 'The Keys of the Kingdom' and '13 Rue Madeleine.'

Enjoy your new TV.

Larry


Appreciate it, good notes. Yes, I can definitely tell the difference from before to now. I popped in Avatar and the new Star Trek (use those for reference) and they looked amazing.

I think I am done tweaking yet I will look into potential red at lower levels.

Thanks again.
post #2057 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by oqvist View Post

I tried to do some input lag tests and the VGA was much faster then the HDMI. But I don´t think the numbers are that accurate. Guess there is some delay to the hdmi port on my GTX 580. It suggest the input lag is about the same level compared to my old TV (55 ms) and it´s certainly not that bad.

On VGA I got about 20-30 ms input lag compared to my 120 hz monitor (which I measured to about 0 input lag compared to CRT). HDMI by eye sight I believe is more like 40 ms then 55 that was indicated.

As I recall the HDMI output is supposed to have better colours whereas VGA only support 4:2:2? Was quite a few games where I preferred the colours with the VGA though where HDMI sometimes felt overly vibrant. What is more accurate I don´t know but always go with what I preferr and look more realistic to me. Watching bluray with no filters or anything it did seem like the TV communicated better with my PS 3 and Sony BDP-S370 then my HP DV7 laptop using HDMI and my GTX 580 graphics card. My eyes may be fubared of course

htdhvy it´s certainly a good sign you see it decreasing. On the D7005 I had some quite modest IR but it never reduced or went away the slightest. TV had 300h in it max with that logo and over 100h of screenwash didn´t make a difference so I gave up.

I use HDMI for gaming on my TV. When you use a VGA cable, I believe the TV automatically enabled "Game Mode". You can enable the same setting manually when using HDMI (Menu > System > General > Game Mode). This will reduce input lag considerably but will also limit Video Modes to "Standard". Another thing you can do to emulate VGA while using HDMI is to set the input "tag" to PC. This will narrow down the Video Modes to Standard and Entertainment. I believe this also automatically forces "Game Mode". To do this, click the "Source" button, select the HDMI input and click on "Tools". Select "PC" as the lable. If you're doing further input lag testing, you may want to look into the above options.
post #2058 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

Rob,

I believe that Hiker has the D8000 which can produce a closer green adjustment than the D7000. You will not be able to get green and cyan to be spot on. Don't even try. Just get the best that you can. Visually, I doubt very much that you'll be able to see the difference between what you have and perfection...

Larry

Hi Larry. I do in fact have a D7000, guess the color accuracy is a touch better than average? Or my (relatively new) meter is screwy.

Just got off the phone with the tech that replaced my main board. He actually laughed at me when I told him that everything looks and measures reddish in the default movie mode, and said all the main boards have the same settings so there can be no problem. Must be my source he figures. Told him I will take it up with Samsung. Not looking forward to that.
post #2059 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiofiler View Post

I have a question about the d series panels and Plasma's in general.

Does anyone ever see a very, very faint grayish Line about 4" from the top of the screen? It can be seen with vertical panning shots with light blue or white backgrounds.

Before recommending service to my panel, it seems like the last few Plasma's over the size of 50" had this same thing.

My c8000 did this too. Another member recommended that I service and replace it. I did. But this one does it too.

I went to a BB and both of their d Plasma's did it as well and at the same parts of Lion King. It is a shot of the sky with movement.

Seems subtle and you do not always even see it, anyone seeing this occasionally? I doubt that all 4 displays I have owned in the last 3 years were duds, showing the same exact thing.

Tried different cables, line conditioners, etc.

Can someone with experience with multiple plasmas and their technology confirm this for me?

I feel like I am going crazy. I have also recently pointed this out at 5 different BB's on both Samsung and Panasonic plasma displays.
post #2060 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiofiler View Post

Can someone with experience with multiple plasmas and their technology confirm this for me?

I feel like I am going crazy. I have also recently pointed this out at 5 different BB's on both Samsung and Panasonic plasma displays.

I believe I see similar thing.Mine is about 3,5" from the top,when image move from the bottom to top and from the top to bottom I see this line on bright backround (whites,blue sky etc.)I noticed one more thing,image below this line is slightly darker and got pink tint.I reduced some red offset in white balance option and it's less visible.
Maybe this can help you.
post #2061 of 3298
I have had seven plasma TVs, six Panasonics and one Samsung. I have never seen this line. The specific TVs are one px60, one px75, two px80 models, two x1 models, and the D7000. The last three all are in operation in my home.

Larry
post #2062 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by danielc1205 View Post

I believe I see similar thing.Mine is about 3,5" from the top,when image move from the bottom to top and from the top to bottom I see this line on bright backround (whites,blue sky etc.)I noticed one more thing,image below this line is slightly darker and got pink tint.I reduced some red offset in white balance option and it's less visible.
Maybe this can help you.

Thank you for your reply and your advice. I will try that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

I have had seven plasma TVs, six Panasonics and one Samsung. I have never seen this line. The specific TVs are one px60, one px75, two px80 models, two x1 models, and the D7000. The last three all are in operation in my home.

Larry

Wondering if your experience with calibration and picture settings has helped reduce/eliminate it? It was one of the main reasons for returning my C8000, however, the D8000 I now have does it as well. I checked out my old 50” Kuro at my friend’s place and saw it on his last night as well.

It would be near the top of the screen, a few inches down. Say 4-6 inches. Sometimes it looks like the effect that the Predator had while invisible. Where the line is invisible-like, kind of like a clear gel line. Other times it is a just a faint discoloration similar to a DSE effect or grayish, off-color. Very faint. But present, nonetheless. Look for it.

Do you have Spiderman or Voyage of the Dawn Treader by chance? Each of those movies has several sky scenes with panning effects which would show this type of effect. I pointed out to my brother while home in OH for the holidays on his Panasonic. He looked at me like I was an idiot and admitted seeing the faint effect. On his unit, the line is a bit higher on the screen.

I am not saying that all Plasma's do it, nor am I saying that yours does it either.

Recently, I took each of those 2 movies to Best Buy and reproduced a similar response on the VT30 & D8000.
post #2063 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiofiler View Post

Thank you for your reply and your advice. I will try that.



Wondering if your experience with calibration and picture settings has helped reduce/eliminate it? It was one of the main reasons for returning my C8000, however, the D8000 I now have does it as well. I checked out my old 50 Kuro at my friend's place and saw it on his last night as well.

It would be near the top of the screen, a few inches down. Say 4-6 inches. Sometimes it looks like the effect that the Predator had while invisible. Where the line is invisible-like, kind of like a clear gel line. Other times it is a just a faint discoloration similar to a DSE effect or grayish, off-color. Very faint. But present, nonetheless. Look for it.

Do you have Spiderman or Voyage of the Dawn Treader by chance? Each of those movies has several sky scenes with panning effects which would show this type of effect. I pointed out to my brother while home in OH for the holidays on his Panasonic. He looked at me like I was an idiot and admitted seeing the faint effect. On his unit, the line is a bit higher on the screen.

I am not saying that all Plasma's do it, nor am I saying that yours does it either.

Recently, I took each of those 2 movies to Best Buy and reproduced a similar response on the VT30 & D8000.

Is this the infamous dirty screen effect? perhaps that is what your seeing. Anyone else please chime in
post #2064 of 3298
My impression is that whatever you are seeing is not related to calibration. You guys might have more luck moving this discussion to the D8000 thread.
post #2065 of 3298
Gentleman, thank you all for a thoroughly informative thread.
I recently purchased a 64D7000, and over the past few weeks have tried just about all of the posted settings. Some look truly outstanding. The plasma now has approx 250 hours on it and I would like to get a professional calibration done. Can anyone refer a pro who services the San Diego area? thanks.
post #2066 of 3298
I will say plug in Cue's settings from page 2/3...I had planned to get a calibration but my set is near perfect with those settings.
post #2067 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by albinorosy View Post

Gentleman, thank you all for a thoroughly informative thread.
I recently purchased a 64D7000, and over the past few weeks have tried just about all of the posted settings. Some look truly outstanding. The plasma now has approx 250 hours on it and I would like to get a professional calibration done. Can anyone refer a pro who services the San Diego area? thanks.


To find a calibrator in your area, post in this thread: ISF Calibrators, where are you located? Please post here!

Larry
post #2068 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by GBFreek View Post

I will say plug in Cue's settings from page 2/3...I had planned to get a calibration but my set is near perfect with those settings.

I plugged a bunch of different settings in from this thread and thought I had a set that looked fantastic until I bit the bullet and bought a used i1 Display 2 meter and measured it myself. Turns out it was quite off. After tweaking it, it looks fantastic.

Moral of story, plugging others settings in may or may not work that well for you.
post #2069 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

Hiker,

You may want to try this also.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post21404904

Larry

I have contacted Samsung and gone through Samsung's troubleshooting to no avail.

So, I have checked the ADC values you reference above and some of mine are different from what you have posted:

2nd_R_H: 49
2nd_G_H: 49
2nd_B_H: 49

(Also, one of my WB settings (one you left out) is at 132)

I have tried your setting of 71 for each, but no change. I still get reddish grayscale. But, I think I have found a link between this "pinking" effect you refer to and my dilemma...

Before main board replacement, "pinking" was not an issue below contrast of 95. Now it is clearly evident above 80. At 80, my default grayscale [EDIT] is the same (red at 140%), but pinking is gone. Is there a link here???
post #2070 of 3298
... and my current settings:

59D7000
Mode CAL-NIGHT
Peak White
Cell Light 20
Contrast 80
Brightness 58
Sharpness 10
Color 46
Tint 51/49
Black Tone off
Dynamic off
gamma 0
RGB Only off
Flesh Tone 0
Edge Enhance off
Motion Light off
xvYcc off
Color Tone Warm2
Digital Noise off
mpeg Noise off
White Balance
r-offset 24
g-offset 25
b-offset 23
r-gain 5
g-gain 48
b-gain 28
10-point OFF

That's the best I can do with this thing now. Didn't bother with the 10pt yet.
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