Samsung D7000 & D8000 Settings/Calibration Thread - Page 9

Originally Posted by cxr369

I am having the same issue.I haven't been able to find anything on it. I called Samsung and all they told me to do was turn off the eco sensor and that should fix it, but it didn't fix anything.

Originally Posted by zoyd

The settings posted so far in this thread apply to movie mode only. There are a couple of differences between movie and the CAL-D/N modes. One is in the way gamma behaves, gamma is lower in the CAL modes. Also, there is a difference in color (mainly red) and since they share the custom color space if you calibrate for one mode there will be errors in the other. This all applies the D8000, D7000 is not confirmed to do this yet. I am working on settings for D/N mode but it is proving hard to get a decent gamma.

EDIT: Here are the Day/Night settings I am currently using, posted on 1st page as well.

Originally Posted by EvanVanVan

Those look very different then your original Movie settings you posted and you did say the Cal D/N is different then the movie mode in a couple ways...The 10-pt settings look very different, rather then 1s and -1, there are lots of -5s, and -6s...If I want to keep using movie mode (cause of the bug with 3D and Cal D/N) do you think I should update those 10pt settings (and the rest) or stay with your original settings? thanks

Originally Posted by LarryInRI

zoyd,

Are you referring to the constant APL mode instead of the standard windows for calibrating gamma -- and grayscale? I asked D-Nice which he uses and he said the AVSHD 709 constant APL with the larger window. That's what I use. (I saw Michael's comment in the other forum.)

Larry

Originally Posted by zoyd

yes, I had been using the traditional windowed patterns but discovered this generated a disjointed gamma curve due to dynamic contrast so I asked the question over at HDJ wondering what pro calibrators use nowadays. Apparently Michael prefers the traditional method.

Originally Posted by whackawookie

Good job on the settings zoyd, only thing is the custom color settings dont appear to be independant between movie, cal-day and cal-night (or anyother mode). I thought i was going crazy constantly fixing the values until i realized they are shared. This doesnt seem to be the case for anyother setting. This happening with anyone else?

Originally Posted by work permit

I've updated the table to include LarryInRI's settings. TiVoHD, would you mind updating the original post?

Originally Posted by zoyd

yep, unfortunately they all share the same custom color space. I can probably find a setting that can be used by both modes without significant color errors but haven't done it yet.

Originally Posted by zoyd

I would recommend removing the average setting and also note which are D8000 and D7000. Each calibration is unique because there are different controls that can be used to achieve similar results, averaging them together will just make a mess.

Originally Posted by work permit

I personally agree with you that the averages are misleading. If others agree, I'm happy to take out that column. In addition to noting which are D7000 and D8000, I can also add which are 51, 59, or 65 if others find it useful.

Originally Posted by zoyd

Hi,

Not knowing what cell light means technically I set peak white using cell light and contrast so as to allow room for additional adjustments if necessary that's why mine are < 20. Contrast works as you would expect, just like a color gain you have to adjust brightness after adjusting contrast while cell light does not appear to affect the low end. My theory is that cell light is related to the number of sub-fields active for each pixel. If that is the case it might be best to just set it at 20 to utilize the full range of levels available for each pixel but I haven't investigated that yet.

Originally Posted by tomtbone

Is it possible for those people doing calibrations to state their desired ftl at 100 ire window that they used and maybe that can make it onto the chart? I think it would be useful, because if there is someone that can't calibrate themselves, but knows that they want the set to be brighter because of room conditions, they can choose one calibration set over another.

Originally Posted by LarryInRI

Remove the averages and add the model and size info.
Larry

Originally Posted by tomtbone

Is it possible for those people doing calibrations to state their desired ftl at 100 ire window that they used and maybe that can make it onto the chart? I think it would be useful, because if there is someone that can't calibrate themselves, but knows that they want the set to be brighter because of room conditions, they can choose one calibration set over another.

Originally Posted by skinnysammy

Actually, turning off the eco sensor worked for me. The screen brightened up right away and hasn't dimmed again....so far.

Originally Posted by cxr369

It continues to do it with the eco sensor off, anything else I can do?

Originally Posted by prophcy0

I've got a question about the black level on the 2011 Samsungs. I know these sets aren't supposed to be on the same level as the 9th gen Kuros, but are they close? I am coming from an 8th gen Kuro (5080HD) and the black levels on my set seem awfully bright. I have a 64D7000 set to movie mode, with cinema smooth off. My blacks don't seem anywhere near inky, and unless I'm misremembering they don't seem any better than the black levels on my 8th gen Kuro.

When there are lights on in the room the blacks very much look black, thanks to the RBF; however, as soon as the lights go off they look more like a dark grey. This is especially evident when my PS3 is switching from the XMB to a blu-ray. The TV's display briefly turns off and turns inky-black, and then as soon as it gets a signal again the display kicks back on and I am reminded how grey my blacks look.

Is it possible that I have a defective set, or am I just being far too critical? I'm thinking I may have to drag my Kuro back downstairs and turn the TVs on side-by-side to compare.

Also, should I just accept the fact that line bleed is inherent with these TVs? This is another issue I never had with my Kuro, but it's pretty evident at times on my Samsung.