Samsung D7000 & D8000 Settings/Calibration Thread - Page 81

Don't go by sports motion, some feeds are bad (NC vs Florida St right now is awful on FIOS). Test with a blu-ray. That said, I think the D8000 is superior to the GT30 in PQ especially if you have it calibrated or calibrate it yourself.

So your opinion should I take this panasonic back for the Samsung?

Tough question, they are both great displays and I don't think the difference in PQ would make me recommend one over the other hands down. I prefer the Samsung mainly for it's calibration controls and ability to dial in perfect color and gamma with 10 pt white balance controls. This is not something everyone would need or appreciate and without calibration equipment or paying a professional to do it is irrelevant. Assuming you have a return window watch it for awhile with high quality content, read up on some of the issues with both displays and then decide for yourself.

I am interested in purchasing a PN59D8000 that was briefly used as a floor model, but I want to know how many hours are on the display. I apologize if the answer is already posted, but I have spent the last two days reviewing hundreds of pages of posts across a number of different forums and haven't figured it out.

I am able to enter the service menu by pressing: mute, 1, 8, 2 and then power. However, there is no entry for "panel display time" or anything similar. I know that the television is running the newest firmware: 1024.3 and I am wondering if this made a difference.

Thank you all very much.

Alex

zoyd,

Thank you SO much for your help!!

291 hours on the display.

Question - does the 8000 have a better picture quality than the 7000? Or not much differences?

If you read the cnet reviews for the 2011 D-series, you will see the 7000 and 8000 offer similar picture quality. Your questions have been off topic for this thread, I would suggest you post in the D7000 or D8000 specific threads.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...24116&page=131
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...22413&page=155

What settings can I alter to change the intensity of the reds on the D7000? I have tried messing around with the 10p scale and some others but it seems to only effect the surroundings instead of the things that are really vibrant and red. No other colors do this. For example a red jacket, it is red to the point of clipping and then becomes a light purple/pink in some points. I changed the R/G scale to favor more green but that didn't make much of a difference.

After calibrating with Y=235 (I usually use my custom APL pattern set), there is a red push on human faces when you check it with dark scenes but looks good with out-door scenes.

If I calibrate with Y=176 then human skin is better in dark. But outdoor scenes are obviously under-saturated. (Mostly noticable with green vegetation in the background but skin tones also suffer a bit.)



Here is a graph I made: click (measured in full range 0-255).
(Note the bad low light accuracy of the CM spectro but you can also see the "native" color space readings...)


I don't know, I am not that centered around human skin tones. Of course, I check them but I also like to see natural colors like grass, plants, wood...

I wish to bring the average error to minimal with a small weighting only or no weighting at all.


I like to evaluate calibrations with CIE dE like this. (This is only an example. First, it's actually from a CG275W emulating an HDTV through hardware 3DLUT calibration, not an existing HDTV with reference color accuracy , second: I can add virtually unlimited number of patches to the chart. I can even pick RGB numbers from human faces in PhotoShop from movie screenshots if I wish to do so...)

(But I stopped to be maximalist until HDTVs are so messed up like they were in 2011. You won't be able to do a perfect calibration anyway, so I just do my best what a reasonable time frame -and of of course the device itself- allows me to do...)

Hey fellas,

I just made the switch from a Samsung 52" LCD to a 64" Samsung 64D8000 plasma. I was immediately impressed with the picture quality of the plasma right out of the box. I didn't do anything other than set the TV to "Movie" and turn the contrast down to 70, (brightness is at 55 I think) and the TV looks great. After I get some hours on the TV I'll be getting it calibrated by a guy that did my LCD a couple of years back.

http://www.optimumsoundandvision.com/

So far I've got about 20 hours on it. I ran the break-in slide show for a couple of hours yesterday while I was running errands. Thanks for all of the good information in this thread. One question, doesn't it bother you to have your contrast so high? 95 and 96 seem crazy high to me.

Also, will watching a movie in letterbox format cause image retention? I started to watch Blitz last night but even on Zoom there were black bars at the top and bottom of the screen so I turned it off.

my 64D8 is also new, I did about 15-20 hours break in and have been watching letterboxed now... zero IR.

To use all 10 bits of your display processor set contrast at 95 and then use cell light to adjust the picture level to your liking in your environment.

Add a good mix of full screen content in between letterbox to avoid IR, say at least 2 to 1 to be on the safe side.

Thanks for the reassurance. Awesome TV isn't it?

Thanks for the help I appreciate it.

Grayscale is to adjust white balance, shades of gray from absolute black to pure white. Color can be adjusted with the color and tint controls, and CMS, however, it isn't advisable to make any adjustments to the grayscale or CMS without a colorimeter or spectro, laptop & software. The color & tint controls can be adjusted with a calibration disc and blue filter, or by eye if you so choose.

Like dsskid said, I would just reset your grayscale controls back to defaults. Something simple that you can do for free is to download AVS HD 709 and run through the basic settings (no meter needed). For color and tint adjustments, you don't need a filter - you can use the blue only mode (Advanced Settings> RGB Only). This may resolve your problem.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496

be sure to follow the manual:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8968806/Patterns-Manual.pdf

Thanks, I forgot about the blue only mode.

Although I use, among other things, fruits, vegetables, and grass for reference, my main focus is on flesh tones because faces are on 99% of the content I watch. If skin isn't correct, you won't find it at my place. A 20 point video processor saved my LaserVue from a trip to Craig's List.

A few weeks back I had checked as Larry suggested and my 59D7000 was set to 59DSCrD.

But last night I was in the SM and noticed "Panel Auto Setting" (or something like that) was "Failed". Selecting this, it corrected the panel type to 59DSArD. Anyone know what the difference is or which is correct? I can still manually reset Type to 59DSCrD, but am curious why it auto selects something different.

I just picked up this tv today. Loving it so far. I was wondering what's the easiest calibration settings to make the picture even better? Or any good tips or pointers for me. Thanks.

Greetings. I tried calibrating my 59d8000 tonight, and could not get the gamma to flatten out at 80 or 90 IRE. I use an eye-one d2 with calman v4. I have about 150 hours on the tv. What do I need to do? Put more hours on the set? I'm pretty experienced with this as I calibrated my previous dlp for 4 years. Any help would be great

You can go into the 10 point grayscale/white balance adjustments at 80% and 90% stimulous and manipulate green to the gamma level you need, then adjust red & blue to 0.31271 & 0.32902. They recheck the rest from 0 to 100%, and make necessary adjustments.

Make sure you have Black Level Compensation unchecked/off.

- http://store.spectracal.com/an-introduction-to-delta-e

chronitis,

In case you missed it, Larry has put together a very nice Samsung specific workflow for the i1D2/HCFR combo which may also be of help:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post21753936

Got my PS64D8005 (scandinavian version of the d8000) about a month ago and I am very pleased with the setting TiVoHD contributed. I'm no expert but compairing it with out-of-the-box settings it's just perfect for watching Blu-ray movies. And after the Logic Board update all the changes in the brightness is gone so no more irritating moments while watching movies :3

You will need to experiment with different combinations of cell, contrast and brightness to find the peak brightness you prefer. Most of us use the same settings for color, tint and sharpness, so you can probably just copy them. Only use settings for your model (don't worry about panel size), i.e., D8000 settings will not work on a D7000.

NOTE: if you plan to try white balance, color space and 10pt calibrations (you don't have to), be prepared to do some experimenting - these settings do not always match up very well from set to set. Maybe try a new one each week to get a feel for which you prefer. If you have a D7000, I would suggest you try a few of Larry's.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post21734450

The best thing is to get a simple calibration disc and learn to do the basics yourself, it's not hard at all and you can be sure you have everything properly set for your specific TV and viewing environment.

in your opinion should I return the 7000 and get the 8000? because I think the 8000 has a slightly better picture.

... and you would be wrong in that thinking, IMO. At an electronics store, they probably just have different settings. If you compared the two side by side, BOTH CALIBRATED, they will look the same.

Didn't you just exchange a Panasonic? Man, you are a glutton for punishment!

Whys that? The Panasonic better?

No, just sounds like a lot of hassle with a big panel. Assembling, diassembling, mounting, unmounting, reboxing, hauling it back and forth. PITA.

Ha, I didn't have to do a damn thing. best buy came by and picked up panasonic right from the house. Also drop off the new Samsung. For free.