Samsung D7000 & D8000 Settings/Calibration Thread - Page 84

Has anyone noticed an issue in some or all SmartTV video apps where their blacks are not as deep/good compared to other devices or DLNA? If so, has anyone found a fix?

I ask because I'm experimenting with the Plex app that's just in development. I love it, except the blacks go weak and the picture looks 'foggy' on my 59D8000.

Top of this page>"Search this thread">enter "ADC". There is a lot of info on this subject in this thread (and on AVF). Here is zoyd's procedure:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post21627792

Unless you've accidentally erased the original settings (by triggering the calibration without a test pattern), or are having problems pinking (clipping) with contrast below 90-95, it's not recommended to mess with this calibration. Whatever you do, make sure you understand exactly what you are doing and record the original values before running this calibration. It is sensitive to the specific test pattern used as well as the color space settings of the input signal.

Like Dsskid said, you should be able to eliminate this pinking by reducing contrast. Do you still see it with default movide mode settings (remove the calibration you have entered)? This is not normal for any mode with contrast at 95 or less. My PN59D7000 could even go above 95 in contrast without pinking on the contrast test pattern (before Samsung messed with my main board).

NOTE: If you are going to use Standard color tone, then you cannot benefit from Chad B's calibration and you should remove it (at least the 2 and 10pt grayscale, you can use the custom color if you like). That calibration is only valid for movie mode with warm 2.


Sounds like it could be normal for broadcast TV - sometimes they have missing pixels at the screen edge(s) which appear as white lines. You might be able to clip it off with the image position control. If you see this on DVD/bluray, you may have some other problem.


This sounds like a black level mismatch between your TV and the app. Can you select between "Low" and "Normal" on the TV? If so, then use the one that looks correct.

I have Black Tone off (changing the setting seems to have no affect) and I have HDMI Black Level which is grayed out. I'd rather not change settings if there might be another fix. The problem with changing the settings is that the change affects DLNA and other SmartTV-related content as well, not just the Plex app, and those settings are set great.

The Plex boards claim a fix has to come from Samsung. I can't help but wonder if it might be related to the frequent brightness burst fix. I don't want to go down that road since I haven't noticed any other FB symptoms.

Ok, so I ran an adc calibration with the 16-255 pattern and I still have white clipping <80 contrast. The adc said successful. Am I doing something wrong? It seems fairly easy to do. Also the 1st_AV_High is 880. Raising it up to 940 does nothing, so I reset it. Help!

Do you mean 16-235? You can also try Janos' 1-235 pattern via RGB full or YCbCr (should give you L/H values of around 131/71).

What are your values for ADC/WB? If those are at defaults (128), then you may have to drop red gain to get any improvement.

Thank you for your response AvidHiker. My ADC/WB settings are all default, except for movie mode which is Movie R-Offset 126, Movie B-Offset 128, Movie R-Gain 146, Movie B-Gain 93. Would Moving the movie r-gain and b-gain to 128 help with the problem?

Huh, you have the same problem as me - explains why you are having so much difficulty with your calibration. Was your TV ever repaired? Before my repair, this set was a breeze to calibrate.

With the service remote emulator, all you can do is reduce the normal ADC/WB setting for red gain. I'm using a setting of 114 right now, which lets me use a contrast of ~85 without pinking. I also tried a seting of 100, but this made calibrating grayscale impossible.

The movie mode WB settings are locked unless you can access the TDM via RS-232. This is not something I've ever tried, but seems like it could be a better solution to our problem. But at that point, you should probably be performing a full "factory" level calibration - Janos has described bits and pieces of that procedure here and there, but I haven't been able to make sense of it. Maybe one day someone will write that up...

Nah man, never had the tv serviced. It's still new, only 3 weeks old. It appears you and I do have a similar problem. Anything above 85 contrast and my tv starts to flash pink. So the only way to fix this is by rs-232. Damn

Wow, that blows - very fishy for a new TV. Makes me wonder if Samsung is playing legos with returns and throwing them back out for resale without a proper base calibration. My friend just got a new 64D8000 and I checked his ADC/WB. There are real values in there, so it looks to be properly calibrated from the factory. Although his red gain looked a little high (didn't measure it), there was still no pinking in movie mode right up to a contrast of 100.

I did update the logic board to 11-11-04 using the 59 ITOless_ deepblack bin. When I tried the ITO deepblack bin and it didn't work. But that was before I was using the emulator. Could I have used the wrong one?

No, according to zoyd the TV will only accept one or the other depending on your panel type. Anyway, I had this problem with my original logic fw (before installing the FBr fix), so there is no relation.

AvidHiker, You're the man! Lowering red gain to 114 has done the trick. I'm gonna do a fresh calibration later tonight. Wish me luck.

Sweet, good luck! I haven't done a full calibration yet myself since making that change, just the 2 point grayscale, but it looks promising. Let me know how it turns out. BTW, I still get pinking around 90, so if you're good up to 95 you might want to try another value between 114 and 128 just to keep the SM tweaking to a minimum. Better yet, display the white level pattern while in the SM (with movie mode) and lower red gain until pinking stops, then maybe drop it another click or two. My thanks to LarryInRI and zoyd for their help with all of this.

I always set all SM WB values to 128, adjust the ADC, do a reset, adjust only the Gains (nothing else) in the SM by keeping the highest value at 128 (it's always the Red but could vary...), reset again and adjust the user settings: contrast always remains 95, brightness goes up if gamma goes down. I swith to Cool, skip the 2p wp and make mostly gamma adjustments only with the 10p. Then I finish with the 6p color adjustments which is painfull with the nonliear color gradients but I do my best which can be done during a reasonable time.
I do not try to force some discret points to look perfect but keep the overal dE2000 below 2 across 16 gray points and below 4 across the colors. It looks impossible to hit dE<4 across a 8p red gradient (MStar board). Today I finished with peak 4.5 on ~50% red but below 4 with the rest of the colors (except that red tone) and below 3 with the overal average. This looked good enough with real content. I beleive it was better than it looks after a usual calibration which does not involve the SM.

By the way, I measured the factory default movie mode before and after the logic board update and the latter seemed to be more accurate. I wonder if this was a random drift between restarts (the panel may cooled down a bit or something...) or it does help with the usual inaccuracies, like the pinkis near-white with the default factory calibration. (I will show reports tomorrow.)

was wondering if anyone could post their factory service menu offsets/gains? just to see if there is a general area where these values are set. i know there will be some discrepancies,especially since my tv was calibrated using "cool" "cal-day" instead of "warm" "movie" in the service menu. any advice on getting the service menu back to warm and movie would also be helpful.

sub-brt 128
r-offset 121
g 128
b 141
sub-contrast 132
r-gain 125
g 128
b 130

I have a question about adc calibration for pc mode: default is 195-16 and picture is very dark, any advice?

Hey guys, I´m in no way a professional calibrator, I just recently got a really cool PN51D7000. The thing is that I try to calibrate the tv with my eyes only since I dont have any type of calibration systems.

Everywhere it says that warm 2 is used to adquire the best picture available, but when I compare it to Standard it looks really really GREEN.

I´ve already calibrated brightness and contrast with the basic settings from AVSHD 709 disc and I think I got that figured out. Also the tint and color I calibrated using the blue screen and expert patterns from my tv.

I REALLY want to try to get the best picture possible out of this beast of tv, but since I dont know how to calibrate colors, my "warm 2" mode seems really really green. I am using right now "standard" mode, and it looks really good, but I dont think it looks as real as it is supposed to look.

Can you help me out guys?

Have you tried out TiVoHD, zoyd, cue03 or LarryInRI values at all? For me it was a good starting point with just some minor adjustments afterward to get to what I think is a really good picture. In the end it's yourself who are the calibrator but having a good starting poing is very helpfull.

As you move to cooler settings from warm 2, you gradually increase the amount of blue in your grayscale, so you are never going to end up with a more accurate picture but you might mask some subtle tints like the green you see. It will be difficult for a beginner to tweak grayscale by eye, so you would need to dive into DIY calibration which means buying a colorimeter (~$100 for an eye one display 2 or LT) and learning how to use the ColorHCFR freeware (Larry just posted a revised procedure which can guide you).

I agree, it's also worth trying at least a few different calibrations to see if any resolve your green problem. Otherwise, you might also get away with an extra click on the tint control. But if you want something more, you need to consider the DIY route.

Just got a PN64D8000 from Magnolia on Sunday. Big change over the old Mits Diamond rear projection! Can anyone recommend someone to calibrate it in Atlanta? I can alway get Magnolia to do it but I thought it would be worth asking here first. Thanks,

Dave

I LOVE my Best Buy but I would recommend staying away from them for any type of calibration. They just don't seem to be as qualified and thorough as people that do calibrations for a living. Sorry I can't recommend anyone for you as I know nothing about Atlanta but I would urge you to find an independent ISF guy.

You can post here to find someone in your area:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=586330

This is also a good place to look for feedback:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=712929

Whatever you do, do not use geek squad.

Thanks for the feedback, Janos. With my limited understanding, I follow you through the WB reset and ADC calibration. Unfortunately, that has not solved the large red gain problem I have after my main board was replaced. The only way I can address the pinking that results is to drop ADC/WB red gain to at least 114 (much lower makes it difficult to calibrate WB using the normal controls). I have not touched any other ADC/WB settings, they stay at 128. I'm left to wonder if the high setting I see for movie mode (but cannot change) is to blame:

Movie R-Offset = 125
Movie B-Offset = 130
Movie R-Gain = 144
Movie B-Gain = 93

Thanks for the feedback guys! I actually tried the CNET calibration (way to green and washed image), and all of the settings in page one of this thread. The best so far have been the ones posted by SeeJeffRun. The thing is that I still see the image way to green, but maybe because I'm not used to seeing it like that, and thats the way to see it hehe.

One question, what is the difference between the Native and Auto setting in color space? Which one is better?

Please do not use D8000 settings for the D7000. They will not work.

The variations in the D7000 models alone make using even posted settings for it possibly not satisfactory. The D7000 grayscale is quite sensitive to the peak output of the calibration. Try to select one that needs the least variation in the Contrast value. There seems to be less of a problem with changing the Cell Light or Gamma.

Also, no matter which setting you use, adjust the Brightness control with your own "calibration" disk. Or use the method that zoyd has described: With a movie that has black bars, increase the Brightness until pixel flashing can be seen in the bars from very close up viewing. Back off the Brightness until the flashing just disappears and then reduce it by two more clicks.


Larry

Please please please don't use geek squad.

Thank you SO much for taking the time in helping me Larry. I really appreciate it. I used your calibrations in post #320 and changed the brightness according to my disc. It looks great!!!

Can I ask you another question? What should I select in my PS3 in the option of Deep Color Output (HDMI). It has the option of Automatic and Off...

I already used your other settings for the PS3, RGB Limited and Super Whites On.

Thanks!

I have seen reports that Native can cause some oversaturation, so Auto may be more accurate. Think I measured it once and didn't pick up on any major differences, but I'm no expert.


Personally, I would leave it off since I've never seen any evidence that it can benefit picture quality and it will increase the data rate over your HDMI cable which (theoretically) could reduce reliability. It's sort of a dormant technology still - all available source material is 8 bit, so using Deep Color to upsample to 10 or 12 bits is not likely to provide much benefit.

Those are the Warm2 settings and they are normal. You can modify them from the TDM but there is no need to do that. it's easier and safer to use Cool instead or Warm2.

So you still have pinkish near-white after you calibrate the WP from the SM (by leaving red at 128) and switch to Cool in the user menu in Movie mode?


The SM WP settings (what you can adjust) should look something like this: 128 - 128 - 128 - 128 - 128 - 128 - 110 - 90
It's the last three you want to use for WP calibration and Red is usually the highest and such it should remain 128.

After this, you should exit from the SM and use Movie (or Cal-Day/Nigh) mode with the Cool color preset.

And it's a good idea to check your ADC Results values after a main-board swap. Post your values and may be try to run the calibration with the ADC pattern from this package (ADC folder).