Samsung D7000 & D8000 Settings/Calibration Thread - Page 87

Yep, seems likely. I just couldn't find the courage to try the TDM (and I'm probably too lazy to attempt to learn all of that stuff anyway). But, as Janos reminded me, there is no need if you don't mind sticking with cool (and, consequently, loosing the "utility" of the other color tones I suppose).

It's not really a "loss", both give you the same results in the end. cool d65 or warm 2 d65. Just the other one takes a bit more hoops to jump through. I think I could be in a similar situation , I had a display 2 that I calibrated my d6500 with , where i had an unusual high blue drive value of 45 but , red was fine. It just seemed to me that blue drive was too high, the meter read blue across the highend ire's at around 85 %, needing to add more. I also think my meter was reading blue to low. Hard to say don't have a reference to compare it too. However everything is from scratch now, I reset my wb sm settings and also changed adc result values. I no longer have a meter, looking at getting a ID3 Pro. So my final um whitebalance settings will change.

Just picked up a D3 myself, very nice meter and VERY fast. Looks like it reads blue a bit high on plasma but I'll profile against the i1pro and see how it does.

Yes, I hope everyone understands that.

By "loss", I was referring to the other color tone modes (standard, warm 1 and 2) which I'm guessing are based on this SM calibration. Last I measured them, the effect was simply a stepwise upward shift of blue in the grayscale as you moved from warm 2 up to cool. Anyway, I know most of us here (myself included) have no interest in the color tones, but some people prefer a cooler tone on some programming (like sports) which (I think) will not be readily available when calibrated this way.

And what effect, if any, does "reassignment" of Warm2 to Cool have on 3D performance?

Also I was considering tweaking Standard color temp, which is the only other color temp I ever use, by adding enough blue, assuming sufficient headroom. Standard would need the least headroom.
But then I'm thinking individual color temps can't be modified in UM.

Don't know about 3D, but it looks ok to me (I can't calibrate it with my i1D2).

The only color tone that can be calibrated via the SM is cool. The TDM can be used to edit the locked-in WB settings for warm 2 (Movie mode) I think, but not sure if anything else is accessable.

yes, standard and warm2 offsets can be edited for 2d and there are separate offsets for 3d cool, standard, and warm2 that can be edited. I didn't see anything for warm 1. The auto and native color tables can be edited as well.

I told you it's fast.
But it seems to struggle a bit with dark tones on refresh type displays.


I always read higher white color temperatures (~cooler~bluish) on almost every kind of displays, especially on PDPs. (I even started to wonder if my CM spectro is still valid but it reads the primaries on professional LCDs very close to the factory specifications.)

I suggest to create correction matrices instead of ccss(/EDR) files.
And create the profile from only R,G,B readings (it is theoretically enough, I don't even understand why they force this white weighting thing this much) and keep the white for validation purposes (check the white with both sensors after the profiling - they should give you very close readings).

Hey folks,

Had my PN64D8000 calibrated last weekend. Here's what the guy came up with:

Picture Mode - Movie
Cell light 18
Contrast 94
Brightness 59
Sharpness 0
Color 50
Tint 50/50
black tone off
dynamic off
Gamma -2
flesh tone 0
edge enhance off
motion lighting off
xvYcc off
color tone warm2
digital noise off
mpeg noise off

White Balance
R-off 32
G-off 25
B-off 30
R-gain 31
G-gain 25
B-gain 32

Seems pretty much in line with what most of you have found. My question is this, does having the cell light and contrast up almost all the way shorten the life of the TV? I have since turned the contrast down to 90 just to make myself feel a little bit better. Seems to me that if you have everything cranked up that got to have an effect on the longevity of the set. The candle that burns twice as bright burns half as long and all that.

Yes, but given the very long half life of modern plasmas (100,000 hours maybe?), I wouldn't worry about it unless you plan to have this TV for 10 years+.

Yep, those look like good numbers. So all you calibrator did was 2pt grayscale, and no color? The 2pt is the most critical adjustment for your average viewer, but if you paid the going rate of $300+, then I would expect 10pt and color to be included.

It's slower at low light but it had no problem reading my mll at 0.0048 ftL


yep, I profiled it in HCFR and the corrected response was <2 dE across the gray scale (from 7). It reads 500 kelvin high without the correction.

Any TDM For Dummies around?

No problem on MLL luminance since I found the integration time setting in CalMan (readings gets reasonable at >=0.4ms ; the default was 0.1 for me) and Greame made some changes in the ArgyllCMS code (default integration time increased to 0.4 and he rewrote the refresh period detection).

But did you try to run continuous measurements on a 20% gray patch and check the chromaticity too?
I still have some random spikes.


Same here. I usually read ~7000K (~7200 on my Pana PDP, ~7000 on WCGCCFL, ~6800 on WLED, ~6700 on standard gamut CCFL) on D65 calibrated displays. It's always a bit cool but worst on PDP.

Right now using the argyll drivers in the new hcfr that JohnAD is developing the probe is not very stable from 20-40%. I see swings in red of 10% and dELuv up to 8.

So I finally caved, stopped using settings posted in this thread, and used the AVS HD 709 patterns (from a DVD burn) to come up with my own values. Over the last four months or so I must have tried every single set of settings found here. Most, if not all, but Larry's 9/17 settings gave me some greenies (dithering) and although I was very pleased with the result of the 9/17 settings, I just realized the other day that blacks were getting somewhat crushed. The thing that gave it away? The cop that agent Smith talks to at the very beginning of The Matrix, a couple of minutes in; I couldn't even see hints of the black tie that's part of his uniform.

It turns out that using the patterns is dead easy and I'm very, very pleased with the result. I'm aware that my colors won't be 100% accurate but at least the basics are now adjusted for my conditions (totally light controlled room).

Even though nobody should use these settings unless they're what comes out of using the patterns too, here's where I ended up :-)

64D7000
Movie mode
Cell 15
Contrast 80
Brightness 59
Sharpness 10
Color 51
Tint 52/48
Screen fit
Warm 2
Cinema Smooth on
Nothing else changed from defaults

A huge thank you to everyone whose settings I've tried. Most of you also wrote "DIY" and you were right!

Willie,

You did the right thing and I suggest that anyone who copies settings, at a minimum, does their own adjustment of the Brightness control. It is the one adjustment that can be done accurately without a meter.

Larry

Not that I am blind, but sometimes I use a camera to capture the near-black test pattern, just to be sure. (The bright dots of the dithering noise on the dark background make it obvious on PDPs but imagine a low contrast IPS LCD without obvious dithering patterns. - Ohh, and add the "IPS glow" effect to that.)

I think that's a bit overkill, Janos.

Larry

D3 precision is about a factor of 2 worse than my D2 at these stimulus levels.

How does the D3 behave using Argyll itself? Is the instability still there?

Larry

Well it's the same driver so I assume it would be the same, but haven't verified.

I don't know. These are the numbers I see in the screen shots he sent me. I'll have to ask him.

Looks like 10pt white balance is turned off.

10pt is not that critical but color definitely should have been done, check if custom color is on and what the settings are.

The latest data that you presented in the calibration forum shows that the problem indeed is due to the driver and not HCFR itself. So I would assume the same also.

Larry

no, but if you are interested in accessing the TDM you need one of these for the D8000 ex-link port (or build your own). Connect that to an RS-232->usb adapter and do the following:

1. Set Control->Sub-option->RS-232 Jack to "debug" in the SM.
2. Run a terminal emulator on your computer and connect to your usb/rs-232 adapter with setting 8,1,N,115200
3. type 23331003 (characters will not be echoed)
4. type 20089999

That will bring up the TDM.

This feels sort of like the instructions that might be given to a neurosurgery resident on the first day, where 1-4 are detailed instructions on shaving the hair, getting through the scalp, controlling bleeding, and taking out a piece of the skull ....

And then he/she is told ...

"That will bring up the BRAIN"

Dive in, the water's fine!

where and what are these?
thnx

Tip - highlight "AVS HD 709" with your mouse, right click "Copy", open Google, Right click "Paste", enter. Or just type it into google. It's the very first link.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496

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