Samsung D7000 & D8000 Settings/Calibration Thread - Page 96

That's because there are none.

Most of us Samsung owners do not use slides or special settings to break in the set. The only reason to worry about break in is if you are hiring a professional to calibrate it, in which case it is a good idea to age the phosphors a bit so the calibration will not drift as much. You can just as effectively do this by watching a good mix of normal content (preferrably a lot of full screen, 16:9) for a few hundred hours as you can with slides (slides have been used by D-Nice to age the set for his custom settings only). My suggestion to you would be to simply start with a basic calibration using a test disc (AVS HD 709 is free), just like I just posted above. Also, go through and disable unnecessary processing, just like you see in all of the settings we post in this thread (start with the first page). You can copy other common settings for D8000s found throughout this thread, but use caution when plugging in the full calibrations (white balance, 10 point and custom color) as they may do more harm than good. You are better off leaving them at defaults and getting used to a basic calibration first before experimenting with custom settings.

Good morning, I have a question, when doing the 2 point and the 10 point calibration or for that matter any part of the entire calibration process using a meter in contact mode . The osd menu towards the bottom middle of the screen showing you what settings you are currently adjusting, does this interfere with the meter itself when it's being displayed simultaniously ? should a greyscale/gamma reading be taken with this menu off and then engagedi again once making another adjustment or need not to worry, how do you guys approach this?

Thanks to all who replied to my SOS post. I've opted for the 2nd set of settings in post 2.

Are these also the settings i should use for my PS3 and any 3D material?

Cheers

It depends. Take readings at both 30 & 80% with and without the OSD and compare the two.

If the readings are affected by the OSD, do a GS or Gamut run, adjust all appropriate settings (ie. all 10 points), and then do another run. It's not quite as convenient as running continuous measurements and adjusting on the fly but it works just fine.

Since I don't have a meter, but I do have the same TV as LarryinRI, I have used 3 sets of his calibrations.

On MOVIE mode, I put his calibration of 4/4/12.
On CAL-DAY, I put his calibration of 12/2/11.
And on CAL-NIGHT, I put his calibration of 10/19/11

Then I switched between them quickly and choose the picture I liked best (based on skin-tones in our local news show).
All 3 of the above modes seem to have the same range o fsettings that can be adjusted (ie 10 point Interval, White Balance, Color Space etc.)

Of the 3, I like his calibration of 10/19/11 the best.

My question is: Does using CAL-NIGHT instead of MOVIE mode have any adverse affect?
Should I put his calibration of 10/19/11 into MOVIE mode instead of CAL-NIGHT?
I ask this because everyone uses MOVIE mode as their starting point.

Thanks.

Occasionally there seems to be some minor changes in the reading when the osd goes away, but I don't think it's enough to really mess things up. When I'm done tweaking, I always go back and run a full 10pt grayscale check to confirm and everything usually looks great.

I believe there are some (relatively minor?) differences in the way each mode calibrates, but since you are copying settings I doubt it would make any difference. Some of the experts here have commented on these differences way back in this thread. Anyway, for your purposes, I think you can consider the cal modes to be extra movie modes. But strictly speaking, I don't think they can be used to compare calibrations (however, in your case, it's not a bad idea IMO).

Maven,

In general for your purposes, there is no major difference in the calibration results for grayscale (offsets/gains/10 point) and color space settings between the Movie and CAL modes. However, there is a difference in the gamma setting.

In order to obtain the same measured gamma value, the CAL modes need the gamma control to be set one tick higher than the Movie mode or the 10 point settings all have to be adjusted to higher values. (Changing the gamma control can be done without a meter but changing the 10 point to adjust gamma requires a meter be used so that the grayscale is not changed.)


One other point: For various reasons, I have had three panels and each one needed completely different calibration settings -- especially in the white balance settings. My posted settings are related to these three different panel by the following periods.

panel #1: 5-11-2011 to 8-11-2011
panel #2: 8-11-2011 to 3-15-2012
panel #3: 3-15-2012 to present


Larry

I'll try increasing Gamma to +1 and see if I like it better.
Thanks Larry.

Does the buzzing fade?

Had my set for 1 week now and approx 55hrs of use which would mostly be SD viewing with some HD viewing and a little gaming. I sit around 3 metres from the set and the buzzing is noticeable although my wife or visitors have never mentioned it. Seems to be worse on brighter pictures.

While it may get a little "better" (which could just be growing accustomed to it), I would say you shouldn't expect much change in the noise level from the TV.

Larry:

I tried increasing Gamma to +1 and it washed out the picture. So I'll stick with Gamma at 0.
Thanks for all your work.

When increasing the gamma setting, you should go back and check your brightness setting since it will usually require a little downward adjustment. The best way to do this is with AVS HD 709 or a similar test disc.

This should really be your first calibration for comparison purposes, one without the use of custom grayscale and color adjustments (leave them at defaults), just perform a basic calibration with a test disc (like I've described previously). As Larry said, there is so much variation in the panels that you have relatively low odds of improving the default movie mode performance (which, generally speaking, is pretty good in terms of white balance).

Hey guy I have UN46D7000 can anybody reply me to a best link for a game setting for my xbox360? And for watching bluray too?

gearskin,

Welcome.

This forum is for plasma sets. You'll have better luck over at the LCD forum here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1322234/official-samsung-unxxd7000-owners-thread

Larry

I've had my set for ten months. The buzzing hasn't faded one bit for me, unfortunately.

Hi everybody,

it seems the TV that I bought was a store demo unit - I noticed when unpacking at home that even in movie mode, the screen was very blue. Service menu then showed that only the first 4 values were 128, after that came 136, 121, 128, and 173 (!).
I have been trying to get the system re-calibrated (have Calman 4 and an i1Pro) but I am having severe difficulty with getting D65 in movie mode. I calibrate the screen in the SM, (G99, B60), which is right on target for x,y of D65. But right when I restart the TV, the color is slightly off (6300K) and when I switch from dynamic to movie mode and cool temperature, all colors are slightly shifted towards red and yellow, and RGB balance is no longer perfect as it is when measured in dynamic mode.

I have tried calibrating the service menu from the 16,235 pattern, and also from the HDMI calibration pattern 7 within the SM, no luck.

Do any of you have any pointers on what could be going wrong? BTW, I am using an HTPC equipped with an Nvidia card as a pattern generator, attached to HDMI1.

Regards,


Christopher

P.S. Sorry for the double post!

Christopher,

Welcome.

Do not calibrate from within the service menu. Do not calibrate in the Dynamic mode.

Use the free calibration program HCFR and the free AVSHD 709 calibration disk. Read this tutorial: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1333561/samsung-d7000-d8000-settings-calibration-thread/2430#post_21785199


EDIT: Even though it is written for HCFR and the i1 D2, the methodology can be used for CalMan and the i1 Pro combo.


Larry

Seems you have done some homework, Christopher, much appreciated. The ADC calibration doesn't seem to affect the white balance, but you may want to report your L/H values and model (7000 or 8000) for confirmation.

It is possible to end up with screwy default color tones if the main board (or panel?) happened to be replaced (which you have no way of knowing). I agree, you should do as Larry suggests and see if you can now calibrate normally. If you run out of adjustment room, then Janos' service menu calibration procedure should sort you out. Performing factory reset(s) during the SM calibration seems to ensure the adjustments stick.

Hi, Hiker.

I agree if using the method devised by Janos is what Christopher is doing. If so, why not just use the 10 point adjustments to bring the color temperature to the D65 value? Isn't that the whole point -- calibrate Cool as close as possible to D65 in the service menu, make final adjustments to the Cool temperature in the user menu using the 10 point controls, and view in Movie mode with the Cool setting?


Larry

That's right, Larry. Just making sure he's following Janos' procedure exactly...

This should have been easier to find, but the new search function is junk...

Has anyone tried the new app called PLEX on a D8000? It's a great app for managing and watching networked videos, but, like the Netflix app, and since fw updates after ver 1015, the blacks are washed out and there's a gray haze. If you watch the same videos using DLNA, the videos have great blacks. My question is... Has anyone found settings for the D8000 that compensate for the poor blacks on SmartHub apps?

I just received a PN64D7000 last week and have been spending the past several days trying out various recommended calibration setting (from this and other sites). Despite various movie mode settings, the colors don't look as good as my former PN63C7000 and noticed some scenes look more grainy on the D7000. When using Standard mode to watch the local HD news broadcasts, I notice that the skin tones on the anchors a bit look washed and overall a duller look.

The set has the latest firmware, so I'm not sure if my set is a bit defective or the picture quality of the C7000 was superior? I would not have even noticed these flaws if this was my first plasma, but since I was spoiled with the C7000, I am really disappointed so far. Any one else had the same experience or have any other suggestions? Thanks in advance

I think it's pretty unlikely that the C series had better picture quality than the D considering the overall very positive reviews (don't think the C was as praised). But since you are not really calibrating, but instead copying other people's calibrations, your complaint is purely subjective. You have no way of knowing how accurate your C was, just as you have no way of knowing it now for the new D. We have found that calibrations absolutely do not carry overy reliably from set to set, so you are likely doing more harm than good by using copied settings for white balance and color space (assuming that's what youre doing). Could be your C was even less accurate, but in a way that was pleasing to your eyes (some people don't seem to like a truly calibrated picture). The only way you can get any answers is to have your set calibrated or find someone else with a calibrated set to see how it compares. BTW, standard mode is not at all accurate (and enables some picture-degrading stuff, IIRC), the only way to get close to a calibrated picture is by using movie mode with warm 2 (all processing disabled). Doesn't matter if you're watching TV or blurays, movie mode is the way to go. WRT to a "grainy" picture, that's not a common complaint for the D. Did you move up in screen size with the new set? That will certainly reveal more grain.

Also remember that if this set you just received was not brand new, there is a chance it has been repaired which in some cases can completely mess up the color accuracy (even movie mode will be way off). Samsung does not seem to readily acknowledge this (happened to me), but if you go after them aggressively under warranty you may get somewhere.

@LarryInRI @Avidhiker: Thanks for your help - I had just realized that this was the forum for the Samsung plasmas and not the lcd's and I own an LCD...that's the problem with the strange naming convention that Samsung has with models across the continents. You were still a great help, because I re-read the calibration instructions and had overlooked (i.e. ignored) the recommendation to do a reset after the calibration. I then did go ahead and set ADC (the 16-235 pattern) and "calibrated" to 6500K from within the SM, though my numbers were very different from the ones posted here: R128 G90 and B61(!) with ADC Targets low 16 and high 131. These targets don't mean anything to me, so I ignored the difference, and I assume they will be different between LCD and plasma.

I then went to normal movie mode, changed to cool, dropped down blue and green even further in 2 P (was necessary because movie mode cool was around 7800K outside of the SM), and then I had a decision to make. Here I hope you can give me some pointers: I had a gamma of about 1.8 and only got to 2.2 by dropping the gamma value to -3. I went with that because 10P then only needed adjustments by +-2 or 3 points at each setting (except at 10 and 20 IRE which needed 7 or 8) and I had perfect gamma and WB (< 0.5 dE across the board, even without gamma compensation after that!.

However, I had to increase brightness to 59 and lower contrast to 83 to get clipping back up to below 18 and above 253. Is this normal or should I have left the gamma setting alone beforehand?

Also, I did the calibration on a HTPC running an NVIDIA Ion card set to YCbCr mode, 255 range, desktop mode. Videos through XBMC look fine, but do I need to switch back to RGB (haven't been able to see a difference except for different contrast/brightness settings necessary)?

Now, basically everything looks much darker than I am used to and I put the gamma setting back to "0" (i1pro says gamma value of 1.9.

I basically have two questions: did I make a mistake calibrating anywhere along the line and
is there a way to reset the SM to "true" factory settings (my ADC was 5*128, 132,129,121,173)? I really believe the TV was set up in the showroom and a salesperson might have changed those settings because B is way off!

It sounds like something is not right with what you have done, but it will be difficult for us to identify because your system is not plasma so the SM settings will definitely be different. I might start with the ADC calibration based on what you describe, since you are using a non-standard (16-235) pattern to clip BTB (this is only confirmed to work for the plasmas AFAIK). So, if possible, try to use Janos' 1-235 pattern from your PC with output set for PC video levels (1-255, so I think that has to be in RGB). His patterns are linked here:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1333561/samsung-d7000-d8000-settings-calibration-thread/2490#post_21809155

There is no way to recover the original SM settings once they've been changed, so you're stuck with what you have. I have no idea if those are normal values for your model, but they could be.
Edited by AvidHiker - 7/17/12 at 6:25pm

@Avidhiker

Service tech came and replaced the main board and now it looks much better. The image quality of the D7000 series is very good, but I recall the shadow detail on the C7000 was much sharper. Thanks for the response

I doubt that would hold true in a side by side comparison on properly adjusted sets, but if you're bothered by loss of shadow detail, you can use gamma of +1 on the D7000. A test disc should then be used to correct the brightness setting, otherwise it may look washed out. In fact, IMO, a basic test disc should be considered required equipment for any owner of this TV. There's a free one right here on AVS, and it only takes 5 minutes. I suggest trying this before copied calibrations:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1400627/official-samsung-pnxxe7000-pnxxe8000-owners-thread/1920#post_22146869

Is it known what gamma the +1 gamma setting represents?