Samsung D7000 & D8000 Settings/Calibration Thread - Page 11

I'm convinced that most everyone complaining about flashing this and floating that are all watching in modes other then "movie" mode.

It's very very easy to have multiple devices hooked up to multiple inputs on the TV and not have them all set to "Movie" mode.

And as someone pointed out a bit earlier, 3D mode on the same input can be set for a different mode from what you set it up in 2D.

My suggestion to anyone seeing flashing or floating is to go into every input and reset to factory, then select "movie" mode in 2d, and "movie" mode in 3d and start adjusting settings again. Do NOT turn on any of the useless settings like Eco or Noise reduction etc. Stick to the ones on the main menu and the "Picture Options/Color Tone" one (set to Warm2).

After you've watched with these basic settings, then try some of the calibration numbers. Use the ones someone has for the exact set you have, if nobody has calibrated you size/model and provided numbers I'd just leave them alone.

I'm not saying there is zero fluctuations, but I have seen so few (like you) that anyone seeing a lot have something set wrong IMHO.

Someone put up a video of Terminator saying they saw popping, and the scene was full of flashes from the battle scene with bombs and lazers going off.

While watching "the hunt for red october" in movie mode, after a reset,
with all useless stuff off, at different parts of the movie I could see the
black bars fluctuating in brightness, it did not seem to be affecting the
the picture and wasnt happening that often, but ive never seen this in other
sets ive owned. Other than that the p.q. was outstanding, very happy with
set, just dont get these fluctuation issues...

Both


I don't think it did. Either way, I inputted the exact same settings (tivohd) except the 10pt white balance and hdmi black level which are disabled.


Is it because a bd is playing or because of the ps3.

Hi - I'm new to this forum and not an expert. I have a 51D7000 and keep reading about firmware upgrades. How do I know if I need to upgrade and how would I do it? Based on what I see in my "support" feature in the menu, I currently have v. 001003. When I ask it to upgrade online, I receive a message that my version is the latest version, but in this forum I read about other versions. Is it different when I upgrade with USB? And where would I go to get the file? Thanks for any info.

Yah, it's very bad. Could it be a setting? It would be a hassle to return and hoping to avoid a repair. I've tried a different ps3, different 3d hdmi cable, different inputs. I'll try a stand alone Bd player. Any other ideas?

try resetting everything?

Already tried that. I went to the service menu and reset to factory. Still the same. I went to best buy and tried demoed a 3d samsung tv and picture stayed nice and black even with 3d. So, I'm sure something's wrong.

I'd also like to know if this would work on the D6500. Has anyone with a D6500 tried these settings?

I did for my 59d6900 (Europe) and they look great. Colors look very natural, the small amount of red push disappeared.

The only difference between the 6 series and 7/8 as far as I know is the RB filter.

*removed*

Hi just wanted to say thanks to TiVoHD, zoyd, cue03, LarryInRI for posting your calibration settings. I picked up a 64D8000 about a month ago. Where I live in Australia it can be tricky to find a calibrator. I'm currently using cue03's settings.

Just wanted to mention something I have noticed with the brightness fluctuations. They are very minimal on my set and dont bother me. I have found though that using cue03's settings and enabling cinema smooth stops the fluctuations completely. Also changing the gamma from -1 to 0 also stops the brightness fluctuations completely. Both of these adjustments have the side affect of lightening the blacks.

This makes me think the fluctuations have to do with the dark vs light content of the picture being displayed on the screen. With lighter blacks there seems to be no more brightness flucuations.

Are you sure?
Some people say it has a different panel but I couldn't find any trustful confirmations and my logic suggests it's the same as the upper models:

I am sure it has the same chipset (may be they miss some SmartTV related components -like bigger flash storage for the apps- but the image processing is the same, except some disabled but unlockable features like "10p grayscale".)

And the 2011 lineup suggests it has the same panel because D8000/D7000/D6500 share the same panel (with or without AR layers), the Lower MLL and better IR/BI behavior than last year Samsung PDPs, etc.) But who knows, I am not sure about it either. (May be they expect to sell the most of the D550, so they thought it worths the time to design a more economic version of the flagship panel which is still good but cheaper to produce and they can make bigger profit on the cheaper models...)

It's not unusual that mid-range and high-end displays share the same LCD panel and the difference is only the chipset (the cheaper display offers a dummy 8-bit processing and the high-end display offers 16-bit processing with additional homogeneity compensation and factory-calibrated and re-writable LUTs, etc)

so really 7000 owners should look more towards Larry's settings than any of the others?

2nd post update with new movie and CAL-D/N settings here. I tweaked the CAL-D/N settings a bit to flatten gamma and updated the movie mode with a new calibration that matches the CAL-Night as best I could get it. The only differences are some minor color errors since the custom color space can not be set independently.

Does anyone know why when i click on videos or photos all i get is "no device connected"

My computer and TV are both on the same wireless network. All my settings check out alright and it worked on my first TV (had to be replaced)

Thoughts?

EDIT: Got them to show up, but can't get anything to play from my mac. No .avi, .mkv or .mp4

Last night I had a little time to re-do the calibration on my 64D7000. The initial run was conducted with only 50 hours on the set and this new run is with about 200 hours.

For my D7000, the posted D8000 settings do not work well at all. In particular, the gamma setting is quite different.

Here are the results of the new calibration. The main changes are in the color space section and the resulting 10 point values. (I didn't have enough time to do them carefully the first time around.) The peak output for these settings on my 64D7000 is about 29 ftL with a gamma of about 2.22. I have attached graphs for the RGB tracking, gamma, and the color gamut.

Movie mode
Cell light 15
contrast 80
brightness 62
sharpness 10
color 48
tint 50/50
black tone off
dynamic off
gamma 1
flesh tone 0
edge enhance off
motion lighting off
xvYcc off
color tone warm2
digital noise off
mpeg noise off
color space
Red_r 100
Red_g 90
Red_b 80
Green_r 100
Green_g 20
Green_b 0
Blue_r 65
Blue_g 0
Blue_b 87
Yellow_r 0
Yellow_g 100
Yellow_b 0
Cyan_r 100
Cyan_g 40
Cyan_b 50
Magenta_r 79
Magenta_g 81
Magenta_b 55
White Balance
r-off 28
g-off 22
b-off 22
r-gain 27
g-gain 22
b-gain 22
10-pt
r1 0
g1 0
b1 1
r2 -1
g2 0
b2 0
r3 -1
g3 0
b3 0
r4 -1
g4 0
b4 0
r5 -2
g5 0
b5 1
r6 -2
g6 1
b6 0
r7 0
g7 0
b7 0
r8 -2
g8 0
b8 2
r9 1
g9 0
b9 -1
r10 0
g10 1
b10 -1

Larry, thanks for posting your update, I have about 50 hours less than you,
but going to give it a shot.

Ok, I got it at the first time, I don't plan to post any other D550 settings anyway. (May be I will refresh my calibration from time to time but that's not as informative as the initial values after the panel-aging.)


I did it because I thought they are similar and I asked again about their relationship because I am interested in the answer. I think it would be good to "officially" state if they have the same panel or not (except the additional filter layers).

Does anyone know how to check the panel hours on these samsungs? I can get into the service menu (still on 1012.2 in the UK so I can't access the Expert menu) but cant see the hours anywhere?

Hello all. Thanks to all of you from an amateur who has benefited from all your combined information. Can anyone speak to the effect of any of these calibrations on line bleed? Can any calibration settings lessen its effect? I currently have been using TivoHD's settings (and factory defaults) but have very distracting line bleed. I'm new to plasma so I can not say if my panel's bleed is high/low/average. I probably have around 100 hrs on the set so far if it matters.

moose,

1. What set do you have -- the D8000 or the D7000?

2. Under what conditions do you see the bleeding -- e.g, when using the TV as a computer monitor, when playing games, when watching the white on black credits at the end of a movie, etc?


I have the 64D7000, watch mostly movies and sports, and have not seen any line bleed at all in about the 200 hours on my set.

Larry

You must be the only one Larry!

Moose, unfortunately line bleed (even with calibration) is part and parcle of this set.

Although it's been mentioned already, it's worth reiterating that anyone suffering from brightness flucs on bluray should enable cinema smooth - this completely eliminated it for me.

I'm still having the odd (read: I've hardly noticed) brightness fluc on interlaced content, but thats all.

To some extent or another, under proper conditions, line bleed is inherent in all plasma panels regardless of manufacturer.

Larry

I don't disagree, but it's bad on the Samsung compared to other plasmas I've owned. Aside from the line bleed and very very slight banding on white backgrounds (much better than my last gen 63" Samsung set), it's a fantastic set.

Smurfin,

I've owned six Panasonic plasmas during the past five years. This is the first Samsung for me -- and it has the least line bleed of all of them.

Yes, I consider it a great set.

Larry