Samsung D7000 & D8000 Settings/Calibration Thread - Page 101

Hey Avid Thanx for all yr responses! They have been very helpful to me.
I realized what i was doing wrong and my 3rd calibration was much better...I was using 100% patterns instead of 75% so all my colors were off...
Anyway, I am going to check my settings again so 3 more questions if I may:

1) Im still having trouble figuring out the best contrast level for my set. If I mess with Contrast or Brightness after the calibration, do I need to recalibrate for grayscale or CMS? If not, what does raising /lowering contrast do to the colors? (Not counting possible clipping)

2) I know the recommended Lum is 30-40 ftL, but there is a huge difference between the 2 so what should I shoot for and do I lower/raise that number using Cell light or Contrast?.....It appears either of them will get me where i need to be

3) This may be a tough one... I noticed that every time I calibrate ADC the number keeps changing....only by 1 digit on the low or high side but it doesnt make sense to me that If i keep calibrating it this number should change...What does the high and low numbers represent and how do they affect the picture?

Thanx again in advance...D

No problem danny, glad I can be of help.

1. Yes, you should always decide on your brightness and contrast settings before calibrating because they will affect the results. Cell has less of an effect, but for the most part we no longer use this control. I'm not sure what effect bright/cont have on the color calibration, but grayscale is definitely impacted.

2. Whatever you prefer, really. Thanks to a Samsung insider, we now know that Cell should always be set to 20 (this will minimize the effect of ABL apparently). I like a nice bright output, so I start by setting cell to 20 and brightness to a normal value (on my D7000 it's around 60 I think). I then set contrast to achieve a comfortable overall brightness. After that, I use the APL clipping pattern on AVS HD 709 to set brightness exactly. This pattern will also show pinking (caused by clipping) in the white bars if you have set contrast too high - if you see this, reduce contrast until whites are clean and start over. I would also reduce contrast if you're not passing at least some of the WTW levels (mine start to clip in the low to mid 240s). Once you're happy with the overall brightness, you can proceed with grayscale calibration.

3. That's normal, I saw the same thing. My understanding is that the L and H values simply determine where black and white are positioned in the video range when the TV upsamples it to 10 bits. Zoyd described this much better in his post with the calibration procedure:

ok thanks.
Also, once I finish my calibration on HDMI input 1 which is my BluRay player, I have been transferring the settings over to HDMI 3 which is my cablevision DVR....How would i tweak those settings so that it displays optimally, or should i assume that my HDMI 1 cal settings are the best its gonna get for all inputs?

Yeah, for other sources you often just have to hope they conform to all the standards so the calibration will match (obviously this is not always the case). I think I've heard that some DVRs can display images from USB or wireless devices that will allow you to check the calibration, so you could try that if the DVR has the capability.

Of course this all assumes that your BD player is a good calibration source - if you don't have a test pattern generator (most of us), you want to use the best possible source for displaying the patterns. I have actually seen documented evidence of a lower quality BD player resulting in a bad calibration, which is fine if that's your only source, but can cause problems on other inputs. I use an Oppo 83 for calibration which, like most of their players, has been pretty thoroughly tested and found to offer very accurate video. The PS3 is also a good source.

There is a default tolerance on the calibration of 2 units, that's why you see some fluctuation. It doesn't matter but you can change that to 1 unit with 2nd_delta under ADC targets. The _L's are D/D offsets for each color channel and should remain close to 128, changing these manually will shift where your brightness control ends up. The _H's are D/D gains and will change where peak white ends up on your contrast scale. If you find that you get "pinking" before contrast level 95 you can lower the gains a little bit to get rid of it.

Zoyd,
Thx for the response, this is great info if I need to make changes...This forum is priceless!

Hey Avid , also great info, I will see if I can get a usb stick on my DVR

Heyguys
In wb settings of service menu my subcontrast is132
Should that be 128 also?

132 seems to be the default value since that was also my setting when the new main board was installed. But for starters, I would just follow Janos' instructions and set all values to 128. If you run into problems, you can play with sub-contrast later.

It's good you bring this up though because it reminds me of another complication - one thing you might notice (if you calibrate with a cell setting of 20) is that the 10pt adjustments may be misaligned (especially if you want to calibrate to a lower peak white). In this case, you can adjust the sub-contrast setting to reach the desired peak white at a contrast setting of 95-98. This will realign the 10pt adjustments. I haven't played with this yet so can't be of much help, but you can read about it starting with this post:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1333561/samsung-d7000-d8000-settings-calibration-thread/2820#post_22097720

Did your new panel come with new boards or did they use the old ones?

I can verify what zoyd did. I did the same months ago. Lowering the sub-contrast service menu item and raising the contrast in the user menu to compensate does realign the 10 point regions. It works like a charm.

Larry

Hi, you are still telling people that they cannot obtain good color accuracy with the CMS. Please see this post http://www.avsforum.com/t/1333561/samsung-d7000-d8000-settings-calibration-thread/2880#post_22253664

Please give this a shot before saying that xvYCC has no affect unless the source material supports xvYCC.

Do you recall what your sub-contrast ended up at?

and was there any specific reason why you chose 98 contrast?

and have you modified any of this since this post?

Larry and avid thanx for the reply
I think im starting to understand
Could this be the reason why when i calibrate wp in service menu by lowering 2 of the gains and then after the factory reset i change over to "cool" and turn off all enhancemnts, i then put up a 100 % white window and my wb is out?
If not something else is going on bcause t is not even close

Ndaa the new panel comes with the x and y boards in it
I had to move my main board, speakers, wireless device?, and tuner onto the new panel
Also the bezel and chassis mounts. Cant remember if anything else had to move

Thanks but no thanks. I think that I know what I am doing. The sub-contrast control has no connection to the CMS. Please read my posts in this thread.

Larry

The sub-contrast setting shouldn't cause this.

Like I saiid before, if you have:

1. Followed Janos' instructions exactly
2. NOT used the service remote to access the SM (do both ADC and WB calibrations in the normal SM)
3. Confirmed that the ADC/WB settings are being properly stored (by going back into the SM and checking them)

...then I'm not sure what the problem is. Movie mode with cool color temp should be in the ballpark and only require minor tweaking to get everything aligned if the SM calibration is correct. If not, maybe try starting over.

thanks Dannoooo, do youmknow if they replaced the logic board?

Not sure what a logic board is but there is a picture of the replacement panel and what it ships with on the official d8000 thread ...see post 4919
I think it comes with the timing card if thats what u mean....cant remember. what i called the tuner is actually the main board which i had to move from the old tv.

Hey avid
then what did u mean by Misaligned?
I did everything by the book...adc and wb values stay intact after reset but iwill triple check and I am using normal qwerty remote and doing this in dynamic mode so as to use cool temp.
I will shoot you a set of pictures that show you balanced wp in svm and then out of balance pic in movie mode with "cool" and all enhanced turn off
I was able to get through the calibration (better than it was) just barely... but im pretty sure this picture could be much better.

dont suppose you have the link to that post - really have tried to locate but cannot

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1322413/official-samsung-2011-pnxxd8000-thread-no-price-talk/4890#post_22237803


Larry

Ok, sounds like there is something else causing a problem. Might be useful to post the final calibration settings as well. If you have to, you can still try and compensate for the WB problems in the SM without measuring (i.e., make the necessary changes based on your 100% white results in the UM), so at least you'll be fairly close when beginning the normal calibration. More work; but, whatever gets the job done!

I gotcha...I will start with lowering subcontrast to see what effect it has on my next calibration....
As far as 10p being misaligned is that tech jargon for screwed up? I couldnt cal my 10 p without first adjusting 2 point....
also, i noticed that each point effects the others so If I go back to check on lets say Ire 40 after i get thru all 10 points, if i make any adjustments then they all need re-adjusting.
Is it customary to go back and hit all 10 points a 2nd time before hitting cms?

You have to read the part of the thread I posted for you recently to understand. Here is zoyd's comment:

Also, again, I don't think sub-contrast is your problem. You only need to make changes to that if you are having problems with the 10pt adjustments. What you describe is perfectly normal for the 10pt system. Post up your final 2pt and 10pt settings when you get a chance and maybe we can suggest something else to try in the SM.

I will post them....thanx for the help. The reason i went back to 40 ire in the first place was because i ran out of blue at that level so i run through all 10 in hopes that i can go back and solve that issue. I ended up tweaking my 2 point to get my 10 point in line...
I think I have to first get to a point where my WP is relatively the same after the service menu calibration, then I can move on to grayscale and cms. I dont know what is wrong but i will try again this week and triple check my procedure.

Also, If i lowered my Subcontrast would i need to recal ADC again?

Cheers Larry

Yes, in your case I would definitely start with 2pt since the SM calibration hasn't worked. If large adjustments are needed in 2pt, try going back into the SM and adjusting the 2 gains to compensate (without using a meter), so you're a bit closer when you start the normal calibration. If you can't get the SM calibration to work, then this trial-and-error sort of approach may be your only option. Go through a few iterations of it and you may still end up in pretty good shape.

No, the ADC (L/H) values generally never need to be changed once they're correctly set.

Thx Avid I will try yr suggestions and post up...thank you for all the responses.