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Samsung D7000 & D8000 Settings/Calibration Thread - Page 105

post #3121 of 3298
Does anyone have the settings for a great picture on the freeview hd for a ps51d8000 thanks in advance
post #3122 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by ktem04 View Post

Does anyone have the settings for a great picture on the freeview hd for a ps51d8000 thanks in advance

As someone who tried all settings out there on my 64D7000 before coming to my senses, I have to tell you that you'll get much better results if you DIY. Use AVS HD 709 to set contrast, brightness, color and tint (using your TV's blue filter), leave cell light at 20, and don't mess with color space, white balance or 10 pt unless you have a meter.
post #3123 of 3298
can anyone help me with my 64... It seems the option for screen adjustment, moving the screen around on the monitor, is grayed out and not usable. am I missing something? at times I have a very slight line across the top of the image where there is no, or flickering, image. I want to move the entire image upward by a few pixels.
post #3124 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by lamparcicho View Post

Hello, is it possible to change red&blue cut and red&blue gain in service menu for movie mode using samsung RUcommunicator?


I know this post is dated, but just in case ....
I don't know if anybody still tries to use ruCommunicator, but I just noticed that my Norton antivirus program found and removed it because of malware: Trojan.Komodola
post #3125 of 3298
Does anyone know if the D7000 puts out 5.1 through optical or if it just does 2.0? I want to hook up a sound bar but want to make sure it can output 5.1. If not then I'll have to get a sound bar with HDMI switching. Thanks.
post #3126 of 3298
Hey Avid, long time no talk...
Im thinking about re-calibrating my tv again...Can I use a USB stick with the mp4 slides directly connected to the panel? Im trying to eliminate any possible cal issues my blu-ray may be causing...
If not, what do you think about using that same usb stick on a ROKU or a WD live box???
Just looking for alt sources that may be more reliable, I dont have an OPPO or a PS3...
Thx D
post #3127 of 3298
I don't see why not, I have heard of people doing this in the past with good results.
post #3128 of 3298
I know this has been asked before but figured I would try again. Does anyone have any decent 3D calibration settings for this TV? Or, is there a decent way to calibrate on this set? I am assuming by eye. (59D7000)
post #3129 of 3298
Hi, I'm thinking about calibrating my 59D8000, but have a few questions.

I know I need an eye-one or something similar, but I'm curious to know the answer to the following questions:
1) How close to a professional calibration can someone get by using an X-RITE eye-one or similar?
2) Has anyone started with the settings from the first few posts of this thread and then performed a self calibration with an eye-one or similar? If so, did you find your results provided a better picture?
3) Has anyone upgraded their software to 1029? I'm currently on 1024 with no issues.
post #3130 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob67 View Post

I know this has been asked before but figured I would try again. Does anyone have any decent 3D calibration settings for this TV? Or, is there a decent way to calibrate on this set? I am assuming by eye. (59D7000)

Hi, Rob. The only way to calibrate the 3D settings is through the lens of the glasses. That means figuring out a way to hold the lens in place over the meter aperture and securing the meter in front of the screen. It's just about impossible to do it by eye.

Larry
post #3131 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by AvidHiker View Post

Another obnoxious post; why am I not suprised?
The fact that the plasma panel requires that the same frame be repeated 4 times per cycle for a stable picture is inconsequential. We are (many of us) aware of the 96hz refresh, however I felt this detail would only serve to further confuse the OP. What I stated is to the best of my understanding based on everything I have read. Yes, the film mode affects how the pulldown functions, but this is only necessary because a frame rate conversion is being performed. The ONLY way to watch a 24fps source natively is with Cinema Smooth enabled. Care to prove otherwise, or will you just crawl away as in the past?
I stand corrected. I was wrong. No problem in admitting it. I was under the impression that 3:2 was processed by the player, not the TV. And because the TV says 24hz with CS off, I assumed it was showing 1:1 pulldown.

P.S. You reap what you sow.
post #3132 of 3298
Hi, Hiker. Are you having fun? biggrin.gif Zoyd, Janos, I, and some of the other regulars seem to have left you alone to defend the fort. This great technical thread has been altered in character. Sorry for that.

Larry
Edited by LarryInRI - 12/17/12 at 3:11pm
post #3133 of 3298
Hey, Larry. That's fine, just trying to pay back the forum a bit. At least some people are appreciative. wink.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Icon13 View Post

P.S. You reap what you sow.

I'd love to see how you could justify this response.
post #3134 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by AvidHiker View Post

Hey, Larry. That's fine, just trying to pay back the forum a bit. At least some people are appreciative. wink.gif

yes, much appreciated, I've been tempted to reply a couple of times but then I see your spot-on post and go back to my beer. wink.gif
post #3135 of 3298
Zoyd, my fBr is back. What should I do???
post #3136 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetmeat View Post

Hi, I'm thinking about calibrating my 59D8000, but have a few questions.
I know I need an eye-one or something similar, but I'm curious to know the answer to the following questions:
1) How close to a professional calibration can someone get by using an X-RITE eye-one or similar?
On these displays with a profiled i1display pro you can get the same quality as a professional calibration if you know what you're doing (<- that bit is harder to know how to answer for a beginner)
Quote:
2) Has anyone started with the settings from the first few posts of this thread and then performed a self calibration with an eye-one or similar? If so, did you find your results provided a better picture?
Those settings should in most cases be an improvement over out-of-the-box settings.


@slightlydismayed: I don't know, sorry.
post #3137 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

yes, much appreciated, I've been tempted to reply a couple of times but then I see your spot-on post and go back to my beer. wink.gif

Thanks, zoyd. Always hoping someone is checking my responses for accuracy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetmeat View Post

Hi, I'm thinking about calibrating my 59D8000, but have a few questions.
I know I need an eye-one or something similar, but I'm curious to know the answer to the following questions:
1) How close to a professional calibration can someone get by using an X-RITE eye-one or similar?
2) Has anyone started with the settings from the first few posts of this thread and then performed a self calibration with an eye-one or similar? If so, did you find your results provided a better picture?

1. In case you are not aware, there is a fairly detailed workflow written just for the D series which will get you well on your way to pro results (of course, it depends on what level of "pro" calibration you are expecting).

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1333561/samsung-d7000-d8000-settings-calibration-thread/2880#post_22299923

2. Yes, and the results are much better. We have a lot of evidence that copying other people's calibration settings is pretty much pointless on these sets. Too much set-to-set variation.
post #3138 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

Hi, Rob. The only way to calibrate the 3D settings is through the lens of the glasses. That means figuring out a way to hold the lens in place over the meter aperture and securing the meter in front of the screen. It's just about impossible to do it by eye.
Larry

Ugh...what a pain. Ok, thanks. Thankfully the "3D" thing is just a gimmick for me, anyway. wink.gif
post #3139 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetmeat View Post


3) Has anyone upgraded their software to 1029? I'm currently on 1024 with no issues.

Thanks to all for your responses. I still haven't received an answer to the following, so I thought I'd ask again. I downloaded the software but I'm afraid to install it without confirmation that it didn't harm someone else's TV. Since I haven't installed it, I keep getting an annoying reminder to install it. I know I can click on "do not install", but I'm not sure if that would prevent me from ever installing it.
post #3140 of 3298
TiVo, zoyd,cue,Larry can you tell me what your white balance settings in service menu are.id like to try your settings on my sam51e450. Thanks
post #3141 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vic12345 View Post

TiVo, zoyd,cue,Larry can you tell me what your white balance settings in service menu are.id like to try your settings on my sam51e450. Thanks

White balance settings sometimes don't even translate in the same model line, let alone a different model. You can't accurately calibrate white balance/greyscale without a meter and software.
post #3142 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetmeat View Post

Thanks to all for your responses. I still haven't received an answer to the following, so I thought I'd ask again. I downloaded the software but I'm afraid to install it without confirmation that it didn't harm someone else's TV. Since I haven't installed it, I keep getting an annoying reminder to install it. I know I can click on "do not install", but I'm not sure if that would prevent me from ever installing it.

You might try asking in the D8000 thread, since it seems you're not getting a response here. There was a recent (possibly related) upgrade for the D7000 which does not seem to have had any problems:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1324116/official-samsung-2011-pnxxd7000-thread/4080#post_22671657
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vic12345 View Post

TiVo, zoyd,cue,Larry can you tell me what your white balance settings in service menu are.id like to try your settings on my sam51e450. Thanks

I take it your only option for WB calibration is in the service menu? I would strongly advise against going that route without a good understanding of how the ADC system works AND, as chunon points out, a METER. Just like copying calibrations, service menu settings can vary quite a bit from unit-to-unit, not to mention an entirely different model. Sorry, but it's not going to get you anywhere.
post #3143 of 3298
Hey , Vic . I used to be like you and tried out many , many settings of calibrations but guess what none were even close. Once I got a meter what I thought appeared neutral to the eye was infact way off. A good example is that my 2pt Red gain value is currently at 0 and with other calibrated settings it was much higher. Always making the picture look too red. So whatever you do just calibrate your tv with a disk using the user menu and call it a day . Adjust Contrast , Brightness , Color/Tint and Sharpness. Disable any enhancements.
post #3144 of 3298
Ok thanks for the replies. I've spent too many hours, but always end up changing it.Im currently trying to balance flesh tones and grayscale through white balance controls. the warm1.,2 did not look right too me.
post #3145 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vic12345 View Post

Ok thanks for the replies. I've spent too many hours, but always end up changing it.Im currently trying to balance flesh tones and grayscale through white balance controls. the warm1.,2 did not look right too me.

Are you using a meter for this? if you are not then I wouldn't touch any white balance controls you will probably be way off. Just set it to warm 2 , I know it doesn't look right , on my set it was way too red , warm 1 i didn't test to see what color temperature it's at. Once I got my meter to check it the RGB balance was around 5300K and easily seen as redish whites .
post #3146 of 3298
Hungro,

I have to disagree here.

If the screen is pinkish and one does not have a meter, the pink can be removed by eye. Any owner can simply change the color temperature to Warm1 or even Standard to reduce the pink a bit. Also decreasing the r-off and/or r-gain to obtain a more desirable black and white picture will help. Increasing the blue and green offsets and or gains even may be necessary.

Of course, this will not be the equivalent to a true grayscale calibration but it will make the display look more realistic.

Larry
post #3147 of 3298
I do it by eye.having OCD I think I'm decent at it. Out of box on warm 1 there was too much red in the darker shades and the very brighest whites did not have as much red,and there's no 10 point on e450, that's why I tinkered with It. Some shows there is too much red in skin tones.
post #3148 of 3298
Vic,

If you are attempting to adjust the facial color based by what looks wrong on various TV channels, you will end up driving yourself crazy. On the other hand, if you want to adjust the grayscale; find a black and white movie. turn the color control down to zero, and use the offsets and gains to achieve what appears to be a pure B/W picture without any coloration.

For your TV, the only way to adjust the facial appearance are with the color and tint controls.

Larry
post #3149 of 3298
Hi Larry I have done that by keep removing any trace of color I see on a blAck and white show( on turner classic movies), and in the end the picture looks dull with no pop.

Does it make a difference lowering the color control to zero, as I've done it with color control at 50?

**i meant in(warm2) it is to red.
Edited by Vic12345 - 12/22/12 at 11:29pm
post #3150 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vic12345 View Post

Hi Larry I have done that by keep removing any trace of color I see on a blAck and white show( on turner classic movies), and in the end the picture looks dull with no pop.
Does it make a difference lowering the color control to zero, as I've done it with color control at 50?
**i meant in(warm2) it is to red.


Vic,

I don't know what you are doing that causes a reduction in "pop' -- whatever that is. However, if you reduce the green offsets and gains by a large amount, the overall contrast will be reduced. The offsets and gains essentially behave as the contrast control for each color and the green contains the largest proportion of the overall color.

The reason that I recommend setting the color at zero is that some stations do not turn off the color when broadcasting a B/W picture. TCM is the most flagrant violator and their black/white movies will show a tint -- ususlly a pinkish tint -- if the color control is not at zero.

Warm2 contains more red than Warm1.

One other factor may be causing you problems: If you have the contrast set too high -- above about 93 -- that may be causing the pinking. This is a common problem with some Samsung models.


Frankly, because you really do not know what you are doing, I suggest that you set everything back to factory defaults and use only the Standard color temperature.

Larry
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