Samsung D7000 & D8000 Settings/Calibration Thread - Page 107

Thanks again, Larry.

I figured I'd ask as it seemed a bit odd to me that I'd get three panels that all need color set at 51 if the usual is 49-50. But using the blue only mode there's no real doubt about it, unless I'm really seeing things

Getting a decent grayscale at contrast 70 is definitely harder than at 73 but I'll keep trying. This is a time-consuming hobby!

Willie,

Why are you attempting to calibrate with the Contrast at 70? I posted results with that setting only to show that it is possible to use the 10 point controls with good results at a somewhat unusually low peak white level.

Larry

It's simply my preference. Above that gets too bright for me. It was easier at 73 but when I thought I saw hints of green I figured I might as well use 70 next time as it's what I prefer on my set without calibration.

Okay, than leave it at 73 and simply reduce the Cell a bit. There is some minor change where ABL kicks in by doing this but at the level that you will be viewing, I doubt that you will see any difference. (Reducing Cell will not affect your calibration,)

Larry

I gave it one more shot with cell at 20, this time with contrast at 71. It took multiple passes but I'm fairly pleased with the result. Everything looks good.

It's quite a challenge; at the high end the controls are shifted by two, then further down by one, and finally they're spot on at the low end. I got lucky where it changes from being two to one off (at 50% and 60%) in that those didn't require much adjustment. However, where it goes to being only one off, at 30% and 40%, I had to pick which level I wanted to be more correct. I chose 30% so therefore 40% is slightly more off.

Also, it's a bit frustrating to have an almost perfect GS after adjusting all the intervals from 100% down to 10% only to find when remeasuring the high end that it's now off by a lot. But multiple passes can take care of that, it's just time consuming.

I didn't do the CMS yet for this one. May just leave it on Auto for a while.


Edited by willieconway - 1/9/13 at 8:17pm

I've also attached the before and after charts for reference.

When doing the 2 point white balance you start with Gains and then do offsets, always this order What pattern did you use when you calibrated the CMS? 75%amplitude/100% saturation or 75%amplitude/75% saturation. The 75/75 one calibrates your color gamut to track better at 75%, 50% and 25% saturation but making 100% saturation over saturated. Color with blue only mode is at 51 with AVS flashing color bars pattern , tint 51/49 on my D6500.

I have heard it suggested many times to use the 75% patterns for CMS calibration. What are the pros/cons of using that over 100% patterns?
Edited by Rob67 - 1/11/13 at 7:10pm

Many, as in most, consumer displays have less than linear RGB separation so it's better to calibrate where most of the content is. I'm using 75% saturation, 75% luminance patterns for nearly everything.

Thank you...I actually googled it after I posted and came across some posts on the subject by you in the AVforum! Thanks again.

Today I got my TV calibrated by Best Buy. The guy took about 2 hours to do everything, including emailing me a before/after report.

I don't know how to interpret the report, but it doesn't look like things were super bad to begin with (I previously used one of the 4 settings on page 1 of this thread).

The after chart does seem to show that all colors (except for red) are in the target area. With that being said, I prefer my old settings. The new one has way too much green in it. While watching Cowboys and Aliens, sand was even green.

I'll post the before/after report once I remove my personal information from it (name/address/#).

I'd be interested to know if the green can be taken out without impacting all other colors.

Ok, so here's the report.

Could you please take a look at it and let me know if you see anything way out of wack, especially with the greens as they seem to be horrible.
Calibration Report.docx 3021k .docx file

Looks like a fine calibration to me. Grayscale, gamma, and color gamut are well within spec limits.

Larry

Rest assured, things were very bad to begin with.
You may be having green shock because your before cal grayscale was terrible - green was waaaay low. This is why we don't recommend copying calibrations. Of course, if that's what you like, then it's up to you to decide. Just understand that your TV will be very far from accurate. I would give your eyes a chance to adjust to this calibration before giving up on it - the results look very good. Try it for a couple weeks at least. Watch some good films on bluray.

Here's what I think will be my last calibration for a while. It took me four passes to get the 10 point to where it is and I doubt I'll be able to make it much better. I definitely won't be able to improve the gamut as I've maxed out the controls where necessary. I just can't move them in any further.

Basics:
Cell 20
Contrast 72
Brightness 58
Gamma +1

31.1ftL

Spectracal C3 and Calman 5 Tutorial



Edited by willieconway - 1/22/13 at 5:37pm

Nice :-)

Yes. Very nice indeed, Willie.

Larry

Larry, Chunon,

Thank you both. I hope I can stop messing with it now but I'm very glad I finally bought a meter and software; the benefit of a good grayscale is obvious when watching movies. I don't know if I can tell much of a difference with the colors though, but the D7000 gamut isn't bad before calibration I guess. I plan to leave things the way they are now, unless I feel the need to change the contrast setting. If so, I'll definitely have to redo the whole thing.

Hey guys...I am interested in renting an i1 Pro spectrophotome​ter to profile my i1Display 3. Any suggestions on where/how to do this? The prices I am seeing to buy one are a little out of my "worth" range for what benefit I expect to get out of it.

Rob,

There are a few places that rent the i1 Pro. Hippo Tech is one: http://www.hippotechsolutions.com/?page_id=15.

On the other hand, ever since the newer i1 Pro 2 spectro hit the market, there are used i1 Pro 1 spectroradiometers popping up on Ebay for $250 to about $400. If you can get a used Rev D i1 Pro for about $300, grab it.

Larry

Thanks...will keep an eye out. With the price from Hippo, you might as well buy one.

Everything looks good. You might be one of the very few with a good calibration from Best Buy. This guy knew what he was doing and he took his time. I would just get used to watching an accurately calibrated image and don't change anything interms of Greyscale values . It will appear different to your eyes but watch it and get used to it .

I agree that is a nice cal, definitely and exception from what I have seen but you got a good deal and if it was free it was a steal.. Now just sit back and enjoy

I enabled CAL-DAY and CAL-NIGHT so that I can try out different light outputs and still keep my current settings (in calibrated Movie mode) that I'm very happy with. I wrote them down and figured I'd add them here in case anyone is interested, at the bottom of this post. On my display they result in these readings.

A couple of questions:

• Will my custom gamut be as good in CAL-DAY/NIGHT as it is in Movie or should I leave Color Space on Auto when doing CAL-DAY/NIGHT ? I know Custom is shared across all three modes and I want to keep my Movie mode as it is so for CAL-DAY/NIGHT it's either Auto or an untouched Custom (because it's calibrated for Movie mode). EDIT: After measuring I see that Custom not only applies but also works across modes. It does measure just a tad differently but not much and it's still within a 3 DeltaE regardless of mode.
• Using the blue only mode I arrive at 46 for the Color setting in CAL-DAY and NIGHT. In Movie mode the correct setting for Color on my set is 51. Is this rather huge difference to be expected/normal?

64D7000

Current Movie mode, 31.1ftL, done with Spectracal C3 and Calman 5 Tutorial:

Cell 20
Contrast 72
Brightness 58
Sharpness 0
Color 51
Tint 51/49
Gamma +1

WB
25
25
25
21
34
23

10 Point
1: 0, -1, 0
2: 0, 1, 2
3: 3, 4, 3
4: 0, 3, 3
5: -1, 4, 5
6: -3, 2, 3
7: -2, 3, 4
8: -2, 2, 0
9: -3, 0, -3
10: 0, 0, 0

CMS
Red: 30, 100, 100
Green: 100, 45, 0
Blue: 0, 100, 43
Yellow: 50, 50, 50
Cyan: 100, 60, 60
Magenta: 30, 100, 30

Another EDIT: WTF, 10 points are shared too? That makes having a great RGB balance in both CAL modes impossible. Anyway, I already have my almost perfect Movie mode. Still this doesn't make much sense.
Edited by willieconway - 2/8/13 at 10:38pm

Another problem with cal d/n modes is that the saturation tracking is worse than movie mode.

Calibration 2-9-13.pdf 61k .pdf file

Figured I would share the results of my latest calibration. 59D7000 with CalMAN 5.0.4 and a i1Display 3. I had a bear of a time straightening out IRE 70 through 90. I also had to drop my contrast as I was pinking on anything over 90. Granted, I didn't spend all night on the grayscale. I may try to flatten it more, later. Wanted to give CalMAN 5 a go. I am not happy I can't download custom workflows, anymore. But, I like it a lot. Easy to use. For the record, my meter is OEM and I do not have a Spectro to reference it off of. I accept the difference, though.

Very pleasing picture. Good flesh tone, excellent shadow detail. Accurate. Used Gladiator and the Avengers, on Blu Ray (ps3) as my reference.

Couple observations:

• It's definite that the OSD affects my readings. I had the meter pressed against the screen and held in place with painters tape. I ran readings with the bottom OSD on and then with it off for a number of tests and there were slight differences. I was able to maintain a consistent reading with it off. REAL annoying to back out for each adjustment, but better results.
• High amount of Red in IRE above 70. Needed to level it out the best I could with the Gain control and tweaked with 10point. Still an issue with 50 to 60 as they are affected as well.
• I probably could have bumped up my offsets to bring up lower end of the IRE scale. But, I just adjusted it in the 10 point.

Mode Movie 2/10/2013
gamma 2.2
Peak White 35ftL
Cell light 20
contrast 87
brightness 59
sharpness 10
color 51
tint 51/49
black tone off
dynamic off
gamma -1
flesh tone 0
edge enhance off
motion lighting off
xvYcc off
color tone warm2
digital noise off
mpeg noise off
color space
Red_r 50
Red_g 80
Red_b 64
Green_r 100
Green_g 55
Green_b 49
Blue_r 0
Blue_g 54
Blue_b 63
Yellow_r 65
Yellow_g 62
Yellow_b 100
Cyan_r 100
Cyan_g 56
Cyan_b 72
Magenta_r 47
Magenta_g 100
Magenta_b 85
White Balance
r-off 28
g-off 20
b-off 20
r-gain 15
g-gain 40
b-gain 31
10-pt intervals
1 1,1,1
2 5,5,4
3 6,6,6
4 6,7,8
5 5,5,4
6 3,3,3
7 0,2,0
8 -3,-2,-4
9 -1,-1,-1
10 0,0,0
Edited by Rob67 - 2/10/13 at 9:10am

Nice job

I dont calibrate the color /tint Tom Huffman suggests to leave it at default and just adjust using the CMS controls. I have a D6500. I am not sure if this is normal for the color but if I use the blue only mode using the flashing color bars within AVS HD disk 51 is correct and 51/49 for Tint.

I adjusted color/tint before finishing up in the CMS. Not sure what the issue would be with that.

Color and tint affect saturation and hue respectively, so they impact primary and secondary colors all at the same time. Everything I have read indicates no need to touch them with a full CMS.