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Samsung D7000 & D8000 Settings/Calibration Thread - Page 3

post #61 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by koffas View Post

Like others have mentioned, you should only lose picture settings if you

1) enter the service menu
2) perform a factory reset
3) upgrade the f/w (depends on the rev)

The settings are also independently assigned for each input.



The only issue I've come across in the D-series models is that 3D doesn't function properly within the CAL presets.

4) have the TV in "store" mode instead of "home"
post #62 of 3298
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by koffas View Post

Those charts are very impressive! How long did it take Gregg to dial the display in? Did you have him work on 3D? Your basic settings look similar to what I'm using on the 59D7000. Gamma = -1 is perfect at night. I have gamma set to 0 during the day. I've increased sharpness for DirecTV, but have it lowered to 0 for high quality (bluray/1080p) sources.

It took Gregg about 2 and a half hours to get it calibrated. He said that's pretty typical time for a Sammy. He did take some measurements in 3D mode while holding the 3D glasses over the meter. My 2D settings were already so bright that he didn't end up changing anything for 3D. For anyone that's using 2D settings that have lower light output, they'll probably want to crank it up for 3D since the glasses block so much light.
post #63 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hudson1 View Post

4) have the TV in "store" mode instead of "home"

True... and you'll probably have a lot of other problems as well!
post #64 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by TiVoHD View Post

It took Gregg about 2 and a half hours to get it calibrated. He said that's pretty typical time for a Sammy. He did take some measurements in 3D mode while holding the 3D glasses over the meter. My 2D settings were already so bright that he didn't end up changing anything for 3D. For anyone that's using 2D settings that have lower light output, they'll probably want to crank it up for 3D since the glasses block so much light.

Yeah, dynamic contrast will also help get more light out of the set. The only pro 3D settings I came across for last year's sets were put out by Thomas Norton.

http://www.hometheater.com/content/s...-hdtv-settings
post #65 of 3298
Interesting, so I guess upgrading my f/w was the reason why my TV mysteriously got set to Dynamic mode the other day or whatever it's called... lame.
post #66 of 3298
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoreyS84 View Post

Interesting, so I guess upgrading my f/w was the reason why my TV mysteriously got set to Dynamic mode the other day or whatever it's called... lame.

Could be. I didn't lose my settings when I upgraded the f/w from 1006 to 1011, but it's always a possibility.
post #67 of 3298
Hmm... ah well. I'm too in love with this TV to be worried about it. I'll just keep this thread handy in case I ever have to restore my settings.

BTW, I am loving your settings as my room is pretty well lit during the day, and in general I think I like a little brighter picture.
post #68 of 3298
I always lose my settings when i turn on my ps3 or blu ray player and the tv will automatically switch to that input becaus i have anynet on. And when i switch back the source input back to tv where my calibrated settings are they are always changed back to default. I dont get it!!
post #69 of 3298
Dang, after I heard about some of the inconsistencies with anynet I made sure that shiz was turned off and never to be messed with again.
post #70 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoreyS84 View Post

Hmm... ah well. I'm too in love with this TV to be worried about it. I'll just keep this thread handy in case I ever have to restore my settings.

BTW, I am loving your settings as my room is pretty well lit during the day, and in general I think I like a little brighter picture.



I am also using Tivo's settings and they make my 51 D8000 look great! Any chance we can get you to do a calibration with game mode and a x360 or ps3 game system on? Game mode does help on the input lag issues so it is a must for any online game. Thanks again.
post #71 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by pato79 View Post

I am also using Tivo's settings and they make my 51 D8000 look great! Any chance we can get you to do a calibration with game mode and a x360 or ps3 game system on? Game mode does help on the input lag issues so it is a must for any online game. Thanks again.

Ah crap you have input lag?! I haven't noticed any on my 64D8.
post #72 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoreyS84 View Post

Ah crap you have input lag?! I haven't noticed any on my 64D8.


Not a lot of lag, it is definitely faster than my LCD, but when you play first person shooters you need all the speed you can get. Try putting a game in and toggle the game mode on and off. I would be surprised if you dint notice a small decrease in lag when put in game mode. With games it can make all the difference.
post #73 of 3298
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pato79 View Post

Any chance we can get you to do a calibration with game mode and a x360 or ps3 game system on? Game mode does help on the input lag issues so it is a must for any online game. Thanks again.

My calibration was done by a professional with a signal generator and a $24k meter, so I won't be able to do it again in game mode. I wouldn't expect that game mode would require different settings, but I use Movie Mode for everything. I've never noticed any input lag when playing Xbox 360 games.
post #74 of 3298
why is 10p white balance greyed out when viewing anything in 3d???????
post #75 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by TiVoHD View Post

My calibration was done by a professional with a signal generator and a $24k meter, so I won't be able to do it again in game mode. I wouldn't expect that game mode would require different settings, but I use Movie Mode for everything. I've never noticed any input lag when playing Xbox 360 games.


Game mode swithces the tv from movie mode to standard and does not allow you to tweek the 10P White Balance. I also did not notice input lag until i tried game mode and compared the two. I dont have a meter or the savy on how to measure, but trust me you can tell.

I am going to try your settings minus the 10P white balance and hopefully that will improve the picture on game mode.
post #76 of 3298
Gotta say, I'm really getting frustrated by how buggy this TV is. Its a TV for petes sake, why does it have to be so complicated? Please remind me, where is store mode (pretty sure I already checked that). How do I turn anynet off?
post #77 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by mirak View Post

Gotta say, I'm really getting frustrated by how buggy this TV is. Its a TV for petes sake, why does it have to be so complicated? Please remind me, where is store mode (pretty sure I already checked that). How do I turn anynet off?

Home/Store Mode: Menu -> System -> Plug & play, redo the initial setup, its the 2nd or 3rd question...

Anynet: Menu -> System -> Anynet...

I would have figured I had Anynet off, but I just checked and I guess it's on be default...You have the D7000? When does it reset, after you turn it off and turn it right back on? Unplug and replug in an HDMI cable? May want to answer me in the D7000 thread and keep this thread for calibration/settings discussion...
post #78 of 3298
My PN64D8000 was calibrated by Chad from Cleveland Plasma. Here is my attachment and at the very end it has the settings.

 

Curtis Samsung plasma.pdf 253.875k . file
post #79 of 3298
I would be curious to hear feedback on my settings vs. other 64 inch d8000 settings and which one you guys actually thinks LOOKS better.

Thanks.

Curtis
post #80 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by cue03 View Post

I would be curious to hear feedback on my settings vs. other 64 inch d8000 settings and which one you guys actually thinks LOOKS better.

Thanks.

Curtis


Better than what? The calibration that Chad performed is very fine indeed -- in all respects.

Larry
post #81 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by cue03 View Post

My PN64D8000 was calibrated by Chad from Cleveland Plasma. Here is my attachment and at the very end it has the settings.

I can't see the attachment,
post #82 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by cue03 View Post

My PN64D8000 was calibrated by Chad from Cleveland Plasma. Here is my attachment and at the very end it has the settings.

Sorry, I hit the send button prematurely. I would be curios to see the settings you have, however I can't see the link.

Thanks
Joe
post #83 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post


Better than what? The calibration that Chad performed is very fine indeed -- in all respects.

Larry

I am sure it is but I find myself flipping between my setup and RELAX and back again. Chad calibration charts shows he was spot on.
post #84 of 3298
For those that can't see the attachment...

Picture mode:
movie

20,95,53,5,50,50/50

advanced:
gamma ‐1,
color space custom ﴾r43,6,5 g14,50,1 b3,0,47 y48,50,5 c15,49,51 m44,6,48﴿
white balance 25,25,25,25,25,30

10P white balance on ﴾1:‐1,0,1 2:‐4,‐3,‐4 3:1,1,0 4:0,1,1 5:2,2,3 6:1,1,2 7:0,0,0 8:‐1,‐1,‐1 9:0,0,‐1 10:‐1,0,‐3﴿

3d: movie, 20,95,49,5,50,50/50 advanced: gamma ‐1
post #85 of 3298
I have a basic question about the D8000's peak light output using full fields and windowed test patterns. Using TivoHD's settings, Color HCFR, and the AVSHD 709 disk, I measured my D8000 peak light output to be roughtly 13 FtL when using full field test patterns, and 50 FtL using windowed patterns. Are people get similar results?

I understand plasmas have peak white limiters which clamp down on the brightness of high APL images, and I should expect different readings with the window versus fullscreen 100% white tests. But I expected about half the light output, not a third.
post #86 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by cue03 View Post

For those that can't see the attachment...

Picture mode:
movie

20,95,53,5,50,50/50

advanced:
gamma ‐1,
color space custom ﴾r43,6,5 g14,50,1 b3,0,47 y48,50,5 c15,49,51 m44,6,48﴿
white balance 25,25,25,25,25,30

10P white balance on ﴾1:‐1,0,1 2:‐4,‐3,‐4 3:1,1,0 4:0,1,1 5:2,2,3 6:1,1,2 7:0,0,0 8:‐1,‐1,‐1 9:0,0,‐1 10:‐1,0,‐3﴿

3d: movie, 20,95,49,5,50,50/50 advanced: gamma ‐1

Thanks for posting, I'm trying this on my 59D7 and had a couple of questions.

I assume Warm2 is being used?

For 3D, are you using the same WB and Colorspace as 2D or was is that left at default? Black tone off?

And for anyone who knows, since 10 pt is grayed out in 3D, maybe it uses the same settings as 2D? Probably not the case but was hoping.
post #87 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by cue03 View Post

For those that can't see the attachment...

Picture mode:
movie

20,95,53,5,50,50/50

advanced:
gamma ‐1,
color space custom ﴾r43,6,5 g14,50,1 b3,0,47 y48,50,5 c15,49,51 m44,6,48﴿
white balance 25,25,25,25,25,30

10P white balance on ﴾1:‐1,0,1 2:‐4,‐3,‐4 3:1,1,0 4:0,1,1 5:2,2,3 6:1,1,2 7:0,0,0 8:‐1,‐1,‐1 9:0,0,‐1 10:‐1,0,‐3﴿

3d: movie, 20,95,49,5,50,50/50 advanced: gamma ‐1

Is your room dark? or is there alot of ambient light?
I watch TV in a dimly light controlled room and I'm finding these posted calibration settings a bit too dark for some blurays where some dark details just fade into black. The colours are amazing though. I'm not sure if I should up the gamma or brightness?
What change could I make that would still keep the integrity of the calibration?
post #88 of 3298
I have pasted the calibration averages for TiVoHD, zoyd and cue03. Not sure if anyone wants to use these average settings, but they look fantastic on my 59D8000. I just adjusted the cell light and contrast for my room's lighting. The color space is spot-on though and looks great.

Movie Mode TiVoHD zoyd cue03 AVERAGE
Cell Light 20 15 20 18
Contrast 96 80 95 90
Brightness 54 54 53 54
Sharpness 0 0 5 2
Color 50 50 50 50
Tint 50/50 50/50 50/50
Black Tone off off
Dynamic off off
gamma -1 -1 -1 -1
RGB Only off
Flesh Tone 0 0 0
Edge Enhance off off
Motion Light off off
xvYcc off off
Color Tone warm2 warm2
Digital Noise off off
mpeg Noise off off
Color Space
Red_r 48 39 43 43
Red_g 6 6 6 6
Red_b 6 5 5 5
Green_r 20 20 14 18
Green_g 54 50 50 51
Green_b 3 6 1 3
Blue_r 3 1 3 2
Blue_g 3 3 0 2
Blue_b 50 41 47 46
Yellow_r 53 51 48 51
Yellow_g 53 51 50 51
Yellow_b 6 7 5 6
Cyan_r 17 18 15 17
Cyan_g 52 48 49 50
Cyan_b 52 48 51 50
Magenta_r 47 41 44 44
Magenta_g 8 6 6 7
Magenta_b 57 48 48 51
White Balance
r-offset 26 22 25 24
g-offset 25 26 25 25
b-offset 22 25 25 24
r-gain 13 30 25 23
g-gain 25 25 25 25
b-gain 29 27 30 29
10-point
r1 0 -1 1 0
g1 0 -1 0 0
b1 0 0 1 0
r2 0 2 -4 -1
g2 0 1 -3 -1
b2 0 2 -4 -1
r3 1 0 1 1
g3 0 0 1 0
b3 0 -2 0 -1
r4 0 1 0 0
g4 0 0 1 0
b4 0 -1 1 0
r5 0 0 2 1
g5 1 1 2 1
b5 2 -3 3 1
r6 -2 0 1 0
g6 0 0 1 0
b6 0 1 2 1
r7 1 1 0 1
g7 2 1 0 1
b7 2 2 0 1
r8 -2 -1 -1 -1
g8 0 0 -1 0
b8 0 1 -1 0
r9 0 -1 0 0
g9 2 -1 0 0
b9 -2 1 -1 -1
r10 0 1 1 1
g10 2 0 0 1
b10 -2 3 -3 -1
post #89 of 3298
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by joefrog View Post

I have pasted the calibration averages for TiVoHD, zoyd and cue03.

Thanks Joe. It's interesting to see the settings side by side.
post #90 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaychamp View Post

Thanks for posting, I'm trying this on my 59D7 and had a couple of questions.

I assume Warm2 is being used?

For 3D, are you using the same WB and Colorspace as 2D or was is that left at default? Black tone off?

And for anyone who knows, since 10 pt is grayed out in 3D, maybe it uses the same settings as 2D? Probably not the case but was hoping.

Yes warm2 is being used. I did notice though that I needed to setup entirely Movie for when using all share, hdmi, tv etc. I didn't realize that the allshare was it's own setup/input.

And yes the same setting for everything else in 3D.

My room is medium lighting. I have large French doors to the right of my viewing area and that is where the main amounts of light cone from.
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