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Samsung D7000 & D8000 Settings/Calibration Thread - Page 30

post #871 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tallen234 View Post

Does the D7000 have a working day/night setting that can be unlocked?


Yes. It requires going into the service menu. Search this thread. It's explained a few times.

Larry
post #872 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by R3ddlight View Post

How do you even unlock it on the d8000 model? Cause it no where to be seen on the user menu.

The only way to unlock it is in the service menu. You also need to have firmware ver 1013 or higher.
post #873 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhambengal View Post

The only way to unlock it is in the service menu. You also need to have firmware ver 1013 or higher.

How do I get to the service menu? Thanks
post #874 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhambengal View Post

The only way to unlock it is in the service menu. You also need to have firmware ver 1013 or higher.

how do i get more updated firmware? i just received my PN59D7000 today and it is a may 2011 build. when i did the internet firmware update, the latest version found was 1009. should i be concerned?
post #875 of 3298
Hmmm. No brightness fluctuations in the last 12 hrs since updating to 018 firmware. Is this the fix we've been waiting for?
post #876 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by R3ddlight

How do I get to the service menu? Thanks
Red I would use the search function of this thread as I am sure it has been posted a few times already (I'd put money on it) please be VERY careful though. When you start going into the SM you can Bork your TV and you'll be SOL.
post #877 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by houstoned
how do i get more updated firmware? i just received my PN59D7000 today and it is a may 2011 build. when i did the internet firmware update, the latest version found was 1009. should i be concerned?
He was referring to the D8000 not the 7K. Different firmware for each TV.
post #878 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbdeen
Hmmm. No brightness fluctuations in the last 12 hrs since updating to 018 firmware. Is this the fix we've been waiting for?
Nevermind.
post #879 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbdeen View Post
Nevermind.
That stinks...

From what I have seen, none of the firmware revisions for the 7000 or the 8000 series have affected PQ. They have all been apps and "Smart Hub" updates.
post #880 of 3298
At this point I concur, I see no difference, yet
post #881 of 3298
How many of you guys use your AVR to upscale to 1080p versus letting the Samsung take care of it?

I am getting the d7000 shortly and am wondering if it is better to let the Reon of my Onkyo 876 upscale or let the D7000 handle it....
post #882 of 3298
Hey guys. I've tried a couple of the settings posted on the first page of this thread, but I don't have any calibration tools to ensure it's calibrated correctly. I've noticed something called "expert slides" or something like that in the picture settings menu. When I pull up the black/grey slide, should I be able to see each block all from the left to the right? Right now, many blocks on the left side look to be the same. Does that mean I don't have my tv calibrated correctly?
post #883 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by cxr369 View Post


On my set I have to have it on, I can't say I've seen a noticeable change in black levels though.

According to cnet, cinema smooth on your actually loosing more black level.
post #884 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by R3ddlight View Post


According to cnet, cinema smooth on your actually loosing more black level.

Based on measurments, correct. But some of us can't see a difference. I was watching the Dark Knight Blu Ray and was flipping between CS and off. I couldn't see a difference.
post #885 of 3298
I did some experimenting last night to see how well someone with experience -- someone who knows what a properly calibrated grayscale shold look like -- could adjust the a TV's grayscale to meet the specifications without instruments.

Here are the results for my 64D7000. The attachments show 1) the grayscale as it came from the factory, 2) after adjusting the white balance (and 10 point controls) by just looking at a grayscale step pattern, and 3) after a grayscale calibration with my i1 Pro.

From the charts: The factory settings with the warm2 color temperature are too red. As expected, without any meter the results of my tinkering are too blue. (I didn't measure the factory warm1 grayscale. I should have but it was getting late. Maybe next time I will.)

Conclusion: "Calibrating" without instruments is nearly impossible. The eye plays tricks with the mind.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that all this was done in the movie picture mode.

Just thought some of you might find this interesting.


Larry
LL
LL
LL
post #886 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

I did some experimenting last night to see how well someone with experience -- someone who knows what a properly calibrated grayscale shold look like -- could adjust the a TV's grayscale to meet the specifications without instruments.

Here are the results for my 64D7000. The attachments show 1) the grayscale as it came from the factory, 2) after adjusting the white balance (and 10 point controls) by just looking at a grayscale step pattern, and 3) after a grayscale calibration with my i1 Pro.

From the charts: The factory settings with the warm2 color temperature are too red. As expected, without any meter the results of my tinkering are too blue. (I didn't measure the factory warm1 grayscale. I should have but it was getting late. Maybe next time I will.)

Conclusion: "Calibrating" without instruments is nearly impossible. The eye plays tricks with the mind.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that all this was done in the movie picture mode.

Just thought some of you might find this interesting.


Larry

Thanks Larry. This is interesting. I'm just going to have to invest in some calibration tools because all the accurate settings just don't look right to me. They all use warm2, and it just ruins the picture to my eyes.
post #887 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by fredkeith View Post


Thanks Larry. This is interesting. I'm just going to have to invest in some calibration tools because all the accurate settings just don't look right to me. They all use warm2, and it just ruins the picture to my eyes.

You have to give yourself time to.get use to the warm2 setting. It will look too red at 1st, but if you give it a bit, the picture will look normal again. Then when you see other TVs you'll see how "off" some of them can be.
post #888 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post

You have to give yourself time to.get use to the warm2 setting. It will look too red at 1st, but if you give it a bit, the picture will look normal again. Then when you see other TVs you'll see how "off" some of them can be.


There are a number of factors to consider here.

1) Your observation that it takes a bit of time to get used to a properly calibrated set.

2) The grayscale will vary depending on the setting of the Contrast/Cell controls. (The Samsung seems to be more prone to this than all the Panasonics I have owned.) I watch with a max output of 28 to 30 ftL. My posted settings are for this level and increasing the settings might ruin the grayscale. I've not run tests yet.

3) For some D7000 units, maybe the warm1 color temperature brings the grayscale closer to specification than warm2. As I said before, I plan someday to test this.

4) For some people, acquired visual taste () takes preference over accuracy.


Larry
post #889 of 3298
Finally got into the service menu, and let me tell all you gamers. Cal day mode is best for video games. It actually make the white a little bit whiter. And it looks better than standard mode. Feels like an led at time, even thought it not as bright. But pretty bright for a plasma. 64d8000
post #890 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post


There are a number of factors to consider here.

1) Your observation that it takes a bit of time to get used to a properly calibrated set.

2) The grayscale will vary depending on the setting of the Contrast/Cell controls. (The Samsung seems to be more prone to this than all the Panasonics I have owned.) I watch with a max output of 28 to 30 ftL. My posted settings are for this level and increasing the settings might ruin the grayscale. I've not run tests yet.

3) For some D7000 units, maybe the warm1 color temperature brings the grayscale closer to specification than warm2. As I said before, I plan someday to test this.

4) For some people, acquired visual taste () takes preference over accuracy.

Larry

I agree with all the above. Since most my posts are from my phone I try to make it as short as possible lol.
post #891 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

There are a number of factors to consider here.

1) Your observation that it takes a bit of time to get used to a properly calibrated set.

2) The grayscale will vary depending on the setting of the Contrast/Cell controls. (The Samsung seems to be more prone to this than all the Panasonics I have owned.) I watch with a max output of 28 to 30 ftL. My posted settings are for this level and increasing the settings might ruin the grayscale. I've not run tests yet.

3) For some D7000 units, maybe the warm1 color temperature brings the grayscale closer to specification than warm2. As I said before, I plan someday to test this.

4) For some people, acquired visual taste () takes preference over accuracy.


Larry

hey larry,

first and foremost, thanks for all the info u've posted around here. i've been weeding thru both of these d7000/d8000 threads to try to soak up as much as i can. are the set of settings in the first post the most current? i know u'r supposed to have a "2nd set of settings" somewhere with more up to date settings.
post #892 of 3298
i dialed in cnet's calibration settings last night and the results were pretty nice. the picture quality wasn't as sharp and detailed as my LG 47LH90 (full LED LCD with local dimming). i thought the D7000/D8000, and top-tier plasmas in general, should have a superior picture quality. i'm not seeing it. is there something i'm doing wrong? i've been breaking in my D7000 for the last 3 days straight. i'm going to be trying Larry's "2nd set of settings" as soon as i can find them. any input would be great!

main problems: some pixelation during fast-pace scenes, skin tone reproduction, and just overall detail/clarity/sharpness.
post #893 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by houstoned View Post

i dialed in cnet's calibration settings last night and the results were pretty nice. the picture quality wasn't as sharp and detailed as my LG 47LH90 (full LED LCD with local dimming). i thought the D7000/D8000, and top-tier plasmas in general, should have a superior picture quality. i'm not seeing it. is there something i'm doing wrong? i've been breaking in my D7000 for the last 3 days straight. i'm going to be trying Larry's "2nd set of settings" as soon as i can find them. any input would be great!

main problems: some pixelation during fast-pace scenes, skin tone reproduction, and just overall detail/clarity/sharpness.

One thing you have to remember is that going from 47 to 59 is big leap in size. You are going to see more faults in the source material you have which may be part of the problem you are having. Also there is a difference between plasma and LCD displays so it may take some getting used to the difference.
post #894 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post

One thing you have to remember is that going from 47 to 59 is big leap in size. You are going to see more faults in the source material you have which may be part of the problem you are having. Also there is a difference between plasma and LCD displays so it may take some getting used to the difference.

i haven't hooked up my ps3 to it yet, so i haven't gotten a chance to check out full 1080p content yet. maybe i'll see a bigger difference then, so i have my fingers crossed!
post #895 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by houstoned View Post

hey larry,

first and foremost, thanks for all the info u've posted around here. i've been weeding thru both of these d7000/d8000 threads to try to soak up as much as i can. are the set of settings in the first post the most current? i know u'r supposed to have a "2nd set of settings" somewhere with more up to date settings.


There's this one from June 30th.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post20639973


I have a few more good calibration settings for my 64D7000 using different approaches if anyone is interested.

Larry
post #896 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

There's this one from June 30th.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post20639973


I have a few more good calibration settings for my 64D7000 using different approaches if anyone is interested.

Larry

i'll give those a go and see how it turns out.

what i look for is a picture that is very vivid. one where the colors just pop in crystal clear clarity. i'm not talking about a over saturated image like u get with most dynamic settings. i want to see the sweat and pores on a person's face when i'm watching a movie. i want to see small details like individual leaves and blades of grass.
post #897 of 3298
In the event I missed it, what settings should I use for sporting events on my 64d8000

Thanks in advance Chris
post #898 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by houstoned View Post

i dialed in cnet's calibration settings last night and the results were pretty nice. the picture quality wasn't as sharp and detailed as my LG 47LH90 (full LED LCD with local dimming). i thought the D7000/D8000, and top-tier plasmas in general, should have a superior picture quality. i'm not seeing it. is there something i'm doing wrong? i've been breaking in my D7000 for the last 3 days straight. i'm going to be trying Larry's "2nd set of settings" as soon as i can find them. any input would be great!

main problems: some pixelation during fast-pace scenes, skin tone reproduction, and just overall detail/clarity/sharpness.

Well when i first bought my un55b8000, the picture blew me away. It was very sharp. After having my new pn64d8000 at a 9" bigger, quality on the pn64d8000 blow my un55b8000 out of the water. So may be something your not doing right. Unless like many folk says it's a LCD and plasma thing, plasma tend to have more digital noise, but only if your pretty close to it. I prefer noise reduction set to low, you get a smooth picture without too much artifact. Cause not having noise reduction on there digital noise or grain everything on the picture. Thats does depend on the source pf the movie. Because not all blu Ray movies are 5 star picture. Check out hidefdigest.com. They rate and review blu Ray movies everyday. This is my number one source and purchasing a blu Ray movies.
post #899 of 3298
Hi I have had three replacement ps64d8000's due to peeling screens and my fourth tv is peeling now , I have been in touch with the store who have now said that the peeling is only a protection film used for transport and should be removed after delivery and samsung will be putting this on the forums, has anybody removed this.
post #900 of 3298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gee123 View Post

Hi I have had three replacement ps64d8000's due to peeling screens and my fourth tv is peeling now , I have been in touch with the store who have now said that the peeling is only a protection film used for transport and should be removed after delivery and samsung will be putting this on the forums, has anybody removed this.

There another section for screen pealing, but all I can you that they don't no what there talking about. Where did you buy it from? What's years build is urs?
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