Lab Gruppen FP14000 clone amplifiers - Page 46

Will the amp pull 30a with a 15a power cord on the amp? Is that what you are getting at? the rest of the chain is able to give it 30a, the power cord on the FP is really all that is lacking.

speakers are wired correctly as Ive stated ive double checked, holes in the boxes have been sealed up, but there definitely were some there to begin, all should be good now tho...

All amps of that wattage should really have a 10gauge power cord. Not all do however because they rarely are used at full tilt anyways due to limiting etc.. So again I think your fine on the power front.

But again the only way to know for sure is to have the amp tested. Soft mode is more for full range music but you can always switch it over and see if it makes a difference..

OK Kool! Thanks. I have three 20amp 220v circuits branched from a sub panel in the closet for three of these.

I would not recommend putting 220v into an amplifier designed for 110v, it will probably only be on for a couple of seconds if you do. At a minimum there will be changes required internally. Most likely a different power supply is used which has a 220v transformer. I would have to open mine up again to take a look and see if the transformer has multiple voltage inputs, if it does I would bet that soldering will be required. An email to Sanway to ask if the amplifier can be converted after the fact with no additional components would be wise.

eh, more than likely ill just keep it the way it is then, I dont want to get too crazy here...

bottom line I was convinced that just the plain ole regular version would be fine for me. I need to test voltages before I speculate any further...

if you go the the first post in this thread pic #14 from the top shows the power supply. It is accessed from the bottom and is in the back. I dont want to discourage anyone wanting to try things on their own, but you should at least have a good understanding of how electricity works and how to check/trace circuits before attempting something like this.

feel free to contact johnson, im sure his technical guys would be willing to help you. You could also ask Johnson for the power supply schematics.

If you open the underneath cover of the amp, there is a jumper soldered which will set to 110V and 220V. The picture shown below is a 220 version.

Really great topic, tnx notnyt.

Is anybody try to run it in BRIDGE mode yet? I am curious how much of these 14.000 watts can give....

Hey guys, tonight I will hook up my clone to my speakers and EQ using the DCX. I will only run one sub though.

The consensus of these 'clones' is that they are not stable on <~2ohm loads. A bridged 14k @ 4ohm would be like stereo 2ohm and hence, unstable. I don't believe many (I think one person has done it) have tried and I do not own any to know for sure but it's been said by Johnson (Sanway corespondent) that they are "unstable" below 2.8ohm or something close to that.


Cool! Let us know how that goes.

wow, I didn't even think what means bridge mode for every channel... , tnx for answer.

This pic is interesting to me. I do wonder now if the only difference between versions is the circuit breaker. I do know there are other SMPS amps that are auto ranging, allowing for operation across the full spectrum of AC mains voltage and frequency. It would be awesome if we could manually select the voltage range, for me it would make me want to buy one...

Darn those guys over at Sanway and DHL! They're too efficient. I missed the delivery guy today. Could you believe this turn around time?

Sanway even shipped it before they got the money. I sent the money via Western Union on Friday afternoon using a direct money transfer from my bank account. They said the funds would be available 4/4/12 at 13:00 EST. That makes it 4:00 AM on 4/5/12 in Hong Kong. They packaged and shipped it on 4/4/12. Here is the tracking info from the DHL site.

Shipped at 10:00PM on 4/4/12 Hong Kong time
Attempted delivery at 12:08 PM 4/5/12 local time

You kidding me? Just over 29 hours to deliver half way around the world? I can't get things delivered in the states that quickly most of the time.

I had the same thing happen! lol

Lucky for me DHL called and had me fax over a release form so that driver could leave it at the door.

Bummer, amazing though,....the world we live in,... love it.


I can't help but laugh at times when someone states "couldn't get the part",... in this day and age, c'mon man? Competition is so tough... prices are decent...

Hell, I spent 24 months in a mgmt team for an electrical contractor, constructing a primary sort facility building a FedEx air hub from the ground up at Indianapolis International. Upon completion, seeing dozens and dozens of large aircraft all fly in about the same time,.... from all over, dump everything they've got into the sorting process,... and subsequently re-load all the aircraft and send them on to their respective destinations,.... is bad-ass

"couldn't get the part here" .... my ass


Good luck with the amp

Mind me asking how much you paid to have it shipped? Did you shell out some extra dough to have it shipped over-night?

It was $145 for shipping I think. I didn't ask for overnight shipping. It just happened to get here in 29 hours.

I did get the package today. Only had enough time to bring it inside before I had to leave for a dentist appointment. Sitting in the waiting room now.

On another note. My MiniDSPs only took an extra day. Missed that delivery today too. Now I have to wait until tomorrow to go pick it up from the Post Office.

Ok, I have a possible problem. Just got the amp unpacked, but I'm not sure which version I have. I ordered the 220V version, but my unit has a standard 110V plug with a 30A fuse.

I don't have a Torx screwdriver in the correct size to open the box to check the board configuration. Is there any other way to tell? What would happen if I plugged it into the standard 110V outlet if it is configured for 220V?

Mine came the same way. If it is marked 220v by the power cable entrance I would feel safe to say you have the correct amp. You can swap the plug with a 20a 220v yourself if you are comfortable.

Ok, I was able to get a Torx screwdriver and open up the case. Not sure what to think. I'm quite disappointed. The soldering looks bad and some look to be ready to fail. I'm no expert, but they look very poor.

Here's my biggest worry though. In the documentation Sanway sent me the instructions say to replace the internal fuses with 15A fuses for 220V operations. I did confirm the jumper was set to 220V operations from the factory. When I pulled the internal fuses this is what I discovered:

These are 4A fuses.


This one is 8A.


This fuse spot is empty.


As I had mentioned before, the external fuse is 30A. Not sure what to think or do at this point. Should I be concerned about the internal fuses? I know I should swap out the external fuse for a 15A, but not sure about the internal ones. Don't want to plug it in and blow the amp, or even worse, burn my house down.

Man, I hope someone chimes in here to see what is going on as I was about to order a couple 220v myself.

The missing fuse is even wierd! I have no idea about the wiring or any of the other fuses but am following along closely!

Thanks for the confirmation.

I think I'll keep it the way it is and convert my homemade extension cord with a 12V trigger. Being that I'll have several outlets both 110V and 220V in the same closet I don't want to have the possibility of someone plugging a 110V device into a 220V outlet by mistake.

I wonder if that is a vestigial main internal fuse holder that was replaced by the external fuse holder. The silkscreen states using a 30A fuse so perhaps this was a board originally made for 110V use. Just a guess on my part though.

Hello Duc135,

The external fuse holder replaces the internal fuse holder that is why it is empty. Real Lab G amps has the fuse holder inside.
I think Sanway did it for ease of replacement without opening the bottom cover.

The two 4A fuses = goes to the preamp board and its fine.

The 8A fuse = if short circuit occurs at the power supply, this is the first to blow avoiding further damage of the IGBT's, switching transistors and PWM circuit board.

I reckon the fuse that uses 15A is in the amplifier module boards. Each board has 2 fuses, one for the +200V DC and one for the -200 VDC. These are very high DC voltage, and make sure that the capacitors are totally discharge, you might accidentally short the power supply terminals which will damage the amplifier module boards or the power supply itself.

Can you please take a picture of the jumper. Just to make sure if its configured for 220V

Can anyone speak to the physical quality of the chassis? How does it compare to the original?

Thinking of putting one of these to use in a live setting.

Cheers!

Thanks for the confirmation. That's what I thought. I should have tried tracing the circuit to see before asking.


That's what has me concerned. The instructions Sanway sent me stated to replace the internal fuses with 15A fuses for 220V use. I would think I would use lower amperage fuses for 220V vs. 110V.

Anyone know if there are any other fuses underneath the boards tucked away anywhere?


Just got home and I am getting ready to go out for dinner so can't do that right now. I'll try a little later tonight if possible. I do know it is set correctly though. There is a single jumper shorting the middle pins.

This is the amplifier module board... with 2 fuses.
Just be very careful, make sure the capacitors are fully discharge.

Thanks for the info. How do I safely discharge the caps? What's the easiest way to measure to see if they still have a charge?

After turning off your amplifier, just leave it for about 2 to 3 minutes and the capacitor voltage will slowly drop from 200Volts DC to 0.0 Volt DC.
You can use a DVM to measure the voltage across the terminals. You can take the screw as GROUND lead of your DVM.