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Lab Gruppen FP14000 clone amplifiers - Page 8

post #211 of 4387
Mine are still on their way with DHL.
Judging by the photo's I've seen they have 14awg cords, some people will tell you that for such a short run 14awg is fine for 30a @ 120v which is probably true unless you're going to be pumping out very high continuous wattage.
When running on 240v, 14awg is enough to carry the 16a peak average load.

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post #212 of 4387
Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

My amps are fine. I was trolling the DJ Forums. Carry on.

lmao, trying to ruffle feathers
post #213 of 4387
ordered my fans today, all ebm-papst, 60mm and 80mm, deciding on resistors i think 5w might be a bit much for a 1.1w rated fan.
post #214 of 4387
Thread Starter 
why would it be too much? a 1w would be too small. I just used 5w wire wound. Not like they're expensive. Which fan did you use for the 80mm?
post #215 of 4387
Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

why would it be too much? a 1w would be too small. I just used 5w wire wound. Not like they're expensive. Which fan did you use for the 80mm?

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...y5912-8414NGML

I haven't seen these sintec bearing ebm papst fans in stock in a while
post #216 of 4387
Thread Starter 
$21.43 a fan is pretty steep though.. looks like a good fan. Did you get the same fan I linked for the 60mm or something different?
post #217 of 4387
Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

$21.43 a fan is pretty steep though.. looks like a good fan. Did you get the same fan I linked for the 60mm or something different?

same 60mm, its real hard to find a 24v 60mm fan that is 15mm deep!
post #218 of 4387
Thread Starter 
let me know how those 80's work. The ones I have are silent.
post #219 of 4387
Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

let me know how those 80's work. The ones I have are silent.

i have the panasonics in another amp, they are as you say, silent, even from a few inches away
post #220 of 4387
my amps got delivered now, less than 48 hours after they been shipped from China. Respect goes to DHL.
post #221 of 4387
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ufokillerz View Post

i have the panasonics in another amp, they are as you say, silent, even from a few inches away

Great, so you know how they are, let me know how it compares. Any reason you went with the more expensive fans?
post #222 of 4387
Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

Great, so you know how they are, let me know how it compares. Any reason you went with the more expensive fans?

i've heard plenty of good things about ebm-papst and their sintec bearings, since i was going at it, figured a extra 20 bucks per unit and i could try them out.
post #223 of 4387
Well I have always wanted to have a Lab power amp but could never afford one. Any ways for someone who wants to have roughly 4-5000 watts per L/R or per cabinet which would be suggested for amps?

I like the Fp14000 but was just wondering if the 10Q would be a good option. I know Mark told me to have about 2-2500 watts per driver and I will eventually have two subs per cab hence the 4-5000 per side. I was hoping one amp could power the pair.

But would like to be able to adjust each cab by using the amp in stereo mode if possible.

Either way just wondering what your thoughts would be Not or other.
post #224 of 4387
Thread Starter 
2 channel - 14q
4 channel - 10q

10q doesnt have as good ulf response according to LG as the 14q.

for sub duty, I'd go with the 14q.
post #225 of 4387
Regarding the fans, what about removing all the fans and making a system to cool all of them? As in, manifolds on the back of the amps to force the air in. This way you could use something like large flexible HVAC ducting to get the air to your rack, and locate the fan in a utility room where it can't be heard.

I'm sure this isn't a unique idea, maybe isn't practical but just wanted to throw it out there.

You could install fail-safe electronics that would not allow the amps to run unless the fan was on.

even better yet...liquid cooling. This is very common on high-end computer gaming systems which likely put out a lot less heat than a stack of these amps.
post #226 of 4387
Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

2 channel - 14q
4 channel - 10q

10q doesnt have as good ulf response according to LG as the 14q.

for sub duty, I'd go with the 14q.

Is this a short coming of only the 4 channel LG's or is the 14000 just that substantial of an amp down low? More to the point, do the 7000 and 9000 have the same ulf extension as the 14000?
post #227 of 4387
Quote:
Originally Posted by vitaminbass View Post

Regarding the fans, what about removing all the fans and making a system to cool all of them? As in, manifolds on the back of the amps to force the air in. This way you could use something like large flexible HVAC ducting to get the air to your rack, and locate the fan in a utility room where it can't be heard.

I'm sure this isn't a unique idea, maybe isn't practical but just wanted to throw it out there.

You could install fail-safe electronics that would not allow the amps to run unless the fan was on.

even better yet...liquid cooling. This is very common on high-end computer gaming systems which likely put out a lot less heat than a stack of these amps.

Liquid cooling is definitely an interesting idea but I have to wonder how practical it is. Then again, people with much more ingenuity than me could most likely figure out a solution. Next thing you know guys will use liquid nitrogen to cool their amps.
post #228 of 4387
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmryan821 View Post

Is this a short coming of only the 4 channel LG's or is the 14000 just that substantial of an amp down low? More to the point, do the 7000 and 9000 have the same ulf extension as the 14000?

Well, it's a shortcoming of having four lesser amp channels than two stronger ones, that's all. If you're getting a clone amp, there is absolutely no reason to go with a smaller amp as the price difference is negligible.
post #229 of 4387
Liquid cooling in PCs is normally mounted directly to the CPU, and chipset. Sometimes the video card/s.

With most amps it would be a real pain in the ass to mount a liquid cooling system directly to the amp. I am sure it could be done but you would need to remove the heatsinks and you would probably still need 1 or 2 fans for cooling and moving air around.
post #230 of 4387
I got my two 200-240v FP14000's. I replaced the power plugs with hospital grade 250v NEMA 6-20 plugs which match my receptacles.

Regarding sound quality... a beefy fp14000 sounds better than my diy "high-end" dual-mono regulated smps hypex UcD 700HG while performing subwoofer duty. Both amps are 240v.

Regarding liquid cooling, I had this thought too. One would need a lot of radiator area & fans to cool this much wattage which doubtfully will be quieter than 4 quiet small replacement fans. Not mentioning how expansive a proper custom water cooling loops can be.
I use watercooling on my nvidia gtx580 and I can tell you that installing waterblocks is a pita. The whole concept of watercooling is less failsafe than air cooling just because it uses more components/parts so more things can fail. Water cooling is good for gaining better cooling capabilities than air. The less noise goal can be easily achieved with air cooling in most setups by using quieter fans.
post #231 of 4387
no doubt most of the heat is generated by the output transistors, but at this level maybe you would need to cool other components such as the capacitors and transformer. Otherwise, the key would be to get the mfg. to make a heat sink for the transistors that had tubes incorportated into it. From there you would just need a small pump. You should be able to cool the water passively unless you are doing continuous high levels for a long time. Water has such a huge capacity for heat compared to air. This is why automobile engines have all been liquid cooled since the 60s? Excpept for a few like the VW bug.
post #232 of 4387
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post
Well I have always wanted to have a Lab power amp but could never afford one. Any ways for someone who wants to have roughly 4-5000 watts per L/R or per cabinet which would be suggested for amps?

I like the Fp14000 but was just wondering if the 10Q would be a good option. I know Mark told me to have about 2-2500 watts per driver and I will eventually have two subs per cab hence the 4-5000 per side. I was hoping one amp could power the pair.

But would like to be able to adjust each cab by using the amp in stereo mode if possible.

Either way just wondering what your thoughts would be Not or other.

Was glad to see you post this. I havent spoken with Mark since ordering my 8and was kinda wondering how much power they were going to need. I haven wanted to bother him, would rather him spend his time building these new drivers lol

Any parameters that you know of yet?
post #233 of 4387
Thread Starter 
air cooling these works fine. If you're running these in an environment that requires more than the replacement fans I've linked, then you won't have any issues with the stock fan noise.

Anyway, here are some images of fan replacing.































post #234 of 4387
Audiovideoholic Mark hasn't told me any T/S specs yet. He did say the surround was the limiting factor as he said the voice coils could handle a lot more. So he suggested about 2500 watts per driver. I haven't wanted to ask him much else either. I dd ask him about the binding post options. In regards to what he will be using for impedance like dual 4, 2 or 1 ohm. I will be happy with just dual 4 myself but wondered what he was thinking.

Not all these details are great. I think I will definitely be trying to get my hands on one of these Fp14000 myself. I will be doing most of your mods also. I wish the voltage limiter device worked or does it?

I think my ears would be the limiting factor and not the drivers when I get them.

But I wont be able to find anything for the money that can crank out this much power. WOW 8 ohms stereo for my first pair of new future subs and I wont be getting these B.A. amps warm. WOW
post #235 of 4387
http://www.generaltools.com/-807SX--...ades_p_31.html wonder if something like this will work.
post #236 of 4387
Thread Starter 
nope, wont fit. might be easier to just disassemble the amp.
post #237 of 4387
notnyt,

Have you tested these amps at 2 ohms with and without the fan mod to see how stable they are. I am really really struggling with the EP4000 (mod'd fan to 34 CFM) running 2 ohms stereo with low frequencies so I would be really interested to see how stable they are with a 2 ohms load with low frequencies.

cheers

Graham
post #238 of 4387
Considering ordering one.. Do they plug into a regular outlet?
post #239 of 4387
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spezzy View Post

Considering ordering one.. Do they plug into a regular outlet?

comes terminated with the usual grounded plug we are too used to seeing, nema 5-15 i believe, same stuff our computer cables are terminated with.
post #240 of 4387
Quote:
Originally Posted by ufokillerz View Post

comes terminated with the usual grounded plug we are too used to seeing, nema 5-15 i believe, same stuff our computer cables are terminated with.

Thanks. I think I will order a FP10000Q. Anything I need to specify on the voltage when ordering? Just standard 120v right? haha.
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