Lab Gruppen FP14000 clone amplifiers - Page 72

I got an email from Johnson the other day is response to questions I asked him regarding the seemingly high reports of defects on these amps. He said they "resolved a problem finally" that was causing the failures. Also said he was talking to someone in th USA to become the dealer here, including servicing the amps. I know on forums you mainly hear about the problems with equipment, so its hard to estimate the failure rate. He did make it sound as thoigh there was an issue that is now taken care of. Then again, he is sick of hearing from me, so he might just be saying what he thinks I want to hear.

Holy crap, around my area it was $75 in fees for WU (including online) and $25 for the wire transfer through the bank. Thats crazy how much cheaper it is.

Heheh, maybe. Though if that is true it would be very good news, indeed! I know my desire for picking up the 10000Q has dropped to the curb as of recently. Following your thread is heartbreaking.

My hottie charged me $7 to send the cash.

This sounds like move in the positive direction.

I will definitely try to. I just recieved my parts for repairing my amp, so when i email johnson with the results of that, i will try to get more details.

Johnson wrote to me the same thing:

"Honestly we
have problem with amplifiers in Auguest, as we purchased unstable
material, which is the A2601, as the A2601 optocoupler is very easy be
burned by franklinism, right now we have solved this problem, please
don't worry!"

Haha I laugh every time they refer to static electricity as 'Franklinism'.

Hi guys. My 10000q amp seems to be fixed. yay! I have been running it pretty hard this morning to see if any problems develop. I've never clipped an amp before so, I'm just concerned about damage to my amp or subs for that matter. On the indicator lights on the amp, the green light are coming on up to the one before the vpl light, and the vpl light barely lights up. Can I go further? My drivers look like they have a TON of excursion left, and there is a 10hz hpf on. I don't hear any distortion or bad sounds(other than my house shaking apart). according to winisd, the max per channel(2100W) takes that driver right to xmax. What signs will I get when I'm pushing the amp too hard? I appologize for the noob-like question, Thanks

Keager,

I have run my 10000Q to the VPL lights coming on during some heavy bass music and I did it for at least 1/2 hour.
The amp doesn't get all that warm and am impressed to.

If I may suggest...you should try running your amp in bridge mode...I now run my 10000Q in bridge mode and am completely impressed how much more I can crank the volume in bridge mode vs 4 channel mode.

I cannot get the clip lights to come on...I have put my receivers volume level to -4 and have never gone so high in my life...ever. (It's a HK 7550HD)
I'm running 4x FTW21's connected to 8ohm load. I'm amazed at how much this 10000Q has.

Try it...I think you'll be impressed.

Yesterday, I had a friend over and we watched Prometheus (In 3D) at volume -12...All I can say is I can't wait to watch the movie again.
When the spaceship leaves...OMFG!!! My friend is in complete AWE! I'm sure you understand!
Unbelievable amount of bass...

I will be watching Battleship tonight with my son and can't wait as I heard good things regarding ULF on that movie!
My poor house!!!

In case you need to know how it's connected...the positive of the speaker wire goes to +1 on channel1 and the negative wire goes to -2 on channel 1.
The same for the other channel which would be connected to channel3.
Push the 1+3 switch on and the bride mode switches on.
After everything I have tried I believe this amp is most comfortable running in bridge mode but have 0 idea why technically...sorry

I wonder if the lights are just not accurate

Reading this and other posts, it seems there's confusion over the protection circuitry, indicator lights and proper operation of them.

I'm assuming that your VPL indicator lights are what you're talking about (others have said "clip" lights), but if you set the Voltage Peak Limiter to 'x' volts, then the circuit is supposed to limit voltage peaks at that number. So, if, while operating the amp, you exceed that amount of voltage peak, the circuit should limit the peak and the indicator light will tell you that it just did.

There is therefore nothing wrong with the VCL indicator lights coming on unless they light up when they shouldn't. If they come on constantly, you should up the VCL dip switch setting or back off the output level.

If anyone has questions or thinks he has a problem, posting your VCL dip switch settings, stereo/bridge setting and some details about the source being played and the sub being driven are helpful.

The clip indicator is a different circuit. The clip limiter is a current sensor and is not user-adjustable. It is probably more apt to light up with 120V-60 Hz conversion models when you've installed a 30A dedicated circuit vs 230V-50 Hz models. Too much current is a problem and if the clip lights come on more than very occasionally, it's time to back off.

Just thought I'd post this, FWIW, after reading some of the comments throughout the thread.

Thanks bosso, that tells me pretty much what I wanted to know. My concern was thinking that I was close the the maximum amp potential and had a ton of driver potential left. this was just a cautious assumption, as I don't want to destroy either. It is a 220v 10000q on a 220v 20a dedicated circuit, the dip switches are maxed at 150v and running only two of the four channels in stereo at 4ohms. Part of my confusion also is that when the green lights come on, you can kinda see the next higher light come on a little, but not as bright. That made it hard for to tell where it was really at. So the moral of the story I'm taking away from this is as long as the red clip lights aren't coming on, I'm ok. So what happens if they do come on? I know obviously to turn it down, but can it cause immediate damage? Thanks for your time. Oh and by the way it is running two RE xxx 18's in an IB manifold.

I have exactly the same situation when running my two hard. It still seems weird to me still as the RE's still seem to have a lot more potential for me too, even when i do see the entire line of green's lit, but alas, it measures fine, and sounds fine, so I have pretty much forgotten it. And yes, the green lights do kinda bleed into the other boxes on mine as well. We ordered ours about a week apart and mine is the 14k, but having someone else confirm the same that ordered perhaps before or after we did would be nice

Have you ever actually clipped yours?

Why would one bother purchasing the 10000Q if they are going to run it in bridge mode? Would the fp14000 not be more stable under lower loads and provide ample power? Moreover, is the fp14000 not more reliable (up to now) and slightly cheaper?

Hey guys,

As a follow up to my posts 2089 and 2098 regarding a problem with the Sanway FP-14000, I am somewhat relieved to report that since my last post, the amp has worked flawlessly for the past 8 days. I use the amp every day for at least 2 hours in my listening area, usually with movies that have punishing bass, and no problems. I have no idea why I had a problem that suddenly "went away" because I changed nothing in my system or in my setup. Experience tells me that such a problem is likely to return or I could have a total amp failure, but at this point I don't think corresponding with Johnson will be productive since I have a fully functioning amp. Any thoughts on this subject? Thanks.

Jeff.

I dont want to try, I get it to the VPL limiters, where it sounds like something is "Crackling" in the amp and I immediately back it down. at -4db's lit, you obviously arent far from clipping the amp so I back off.


Keager will be running two more subs on the other two channels so he more than likely still wont bridge, but can if he feels like it.

Definitely advise him of the situation and your concern about it happening again. Keep at it until you get him to say that he will troubleahoot and send whatever is necessary to fix it. Intermitant problems are the hardest to figure out and fix. There is definitely a problem and it will most lilely return

So is it safe to say the problems with the FP10000Q are fixed for now. Who will be the test dummy thou..

I've ordered a pair of the 14ks and I'm looking at the various Mini-DSP options. I'm hoping people have experience with the mini-DSP and can help.
I'm leaning towards the balanced 2x4, is there any reason I should spend the extra money to get the 2x8?
Is the higher output voltage (8v) of the 2x8 necessary over the 4v from the 2x4 to avoid clipping the signal to the amp?

I just ran a series of sine waves with my DIY sub and the FP14000+. It was all fine, but while playing some movie scenes a few minutes after I noticed the amp power cycled. It keeps cycling at higher levels (it's fine on medium levels). It seems to go louder again as time passes (it's been 20min or so).. What gives? Does it need to reload something internally?

By cycling, do you mean powering on and off?

It was like more like it clipped, and it had to reset itself. But I find this odd as it could play at those levels only minutes before, and the amplifier was not feeling hot at all or something like that. So I'm doubting it hit a thermal limit. I'll see what it does tomorrow, I'm just wondering if this is considered normal, as I know sine waves can be especially hard on equipment. If not, I wonder if I could have damaged it.

I dont think thats normal

What do you mean by"like it clipped?" and at what levels did it appear? I have stressed my clone extensively with sine waves without it acting weird on me. Maybe you should see if Johnson had a comment on this topic.

Definitely notify johnson

Franklinism strikes again!