So just move the mic from one place to another in the room no mater If I sit there or not?
Yes, but no more than 2'-3' from that #1 mic position ... the focus is ONLY on the main listening position (ie. #1 mic position) not on where anyone else sits.
I have a Denon 2312ci, It was purchased a little over a month ago. I bought a Denon 3312ci because the 2312ci does not have preouts. If you are interested, PM me. I have the original box and again it is a month old and hardly used. Thx
Yes, but no more than 2'-3' from that #1 mic position ... the focus is ONLY on the main listening position (ie. #1 mic position) not on where anyone else sits.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ronald11103
Yes but -- (very important) place the mic for the first measurement at or near your primary sitting place. All other measurements are measured off of that position.
Noted.Thanks guys . Will do again when I get home.
this... ensure that the n64 is set to output 640x480 resolution...
edit: iirc, there's three res options on the n64... the aforementioned 640x480 (vga/ntsc), 320x240 (cga), and 256x224 (?)... the avr will not know what to do with the last two, as they are not standard "video resolutions"...
After some google searches the N64's output resolution is the problem. Apparently it outputs a non-standard resolution that the receiver doesn't like. Unfortunately I haven't found a way to change the resolution. Although the HDMI monitor out doesn't like the resolution, the composite out works. No big deal. Thanks for all the replies.
After some google searches the N64's output resolution is the problem. Apparently it outputs a non-standard resolution that the receiver doesn't like. Unfortunately I haven't found a way to change the resolution. Although the HDMI monitor out doesn't like the resolution, the composite out works. No big deal. Thanks for all the replies.
yup... cga (and lower) hasn't been handled for a LONG time...
The room is roughly 15 deep x 20 long, but opens up into a kitchen and stairway. My listening position is about 8' from the front stage. Generally the loudest so far probably -7, perhaps zeroed out in some instances. Volume wise I'm golden, I'm mostly concerned with the heat the AVR puts out at louder levels of listening.
Perhaps I ought to just add a fan or two on the AVR to dissipate the heat for when I'm really cranking it for extended periods. That's not terribly often, but when I do I don't want to cause damage. I tried to do a test so I could measure the heat produced, but the wife came home and turned the AVR down skewing my results. I'll run it again tomorrow and get a temp reading.
If the amp gets too hot, it'll shut itself down to avoid damage. As long as you're honest about not doing it terribly often, as long as you're not regularly tripping the protection circuits, I wouldn't worry about it... unless you're trying to sit on the AVR.
Do make sure it has plenty of breathing room to ventilate itself naturally, however, since you know you'll be pushing it.
I have been enjoying my 1912 since November when I needed something to switch HDMI to my new plasma set. I wanted the 3312 ( sitting beside me on my couch as of this afternoon ) but was not able to get it at the time. I'm planning to use it for home theater and whole house audio. I didn't know which way to go until found this forum, the info here is top notch. Thanks guys!
I will be hooking the 3312 up in my family room 23 x 21 for movies and music, and relocating the 1912 to the master bedroom, any advice will be greatly appreciated. My plan is to use a seperate amp (Yamaha m 65) to power the fronts and set up a 7.2 for movies. I will be using the zone 2 + 3 pre outs to feed a pair of older Sony STR- 925s recievers for the speakers in the living room and kitchen (zone 2) and the garage and outside deck zone 3. I know I've got lots of power but, I'm short on good speakers. I have been running a set of Acoustic Research speakers 2 towers and 2 surrounds with a powered sub all the same age as the sony's circa 1999. However I'd like to go in wall for the HT room, moving towards that end I picked up two pairs of Mordaut-Short AW161 I'd like to use one pair for front L & R and the other pair for wide or height or maybe side and rear?
So that's my plan as far as it goes, I'm thinking of picking up matching center speaker, and am at a loss for L & R surrounds. I also have 2 8 " Boston Acoustic 150w subs to throw in the mix. If some of my rant is not in the right thread let me know I don't usually post anything mostly I lurk and read.
Hi TJ;
This is not really the forum and you should take this to the speaker forum for some serious help as you are setting this up as a major HT project with multi zones and with the thoughts of using in wall speakers so you really only have 1 shot at getting this right.
The Mordaunts are 4 ohm speakers so if used you will probably need to use pre outs for them.
You should also try to timbre match your center with your mains FR/FL.
Some other thoughts if you are going to use wides which are the preferred for Superior SQ over sur. backs and heights they should all be set up to where the tweeters should be at ear level when sitting in fact all speakers should be for the exception of heights but we all work with the room and cosmedics to do the best we can. Here is a link with the different speaker placement for 7.1.
Gone are the days of pulling out a set of speakers, plug them in and play. Now it like putting together a jigsaw puzzle with a hammer where placement and angles mean everything but when you hit the play button it's well worth it.
I would post with the speaker forum as there are many experts that can give you some advice for your set up. It helps if you give a detailed diagram of your room with room measurements, furniture, windows, doors etc...
Another suggestion is if you have iTunes or own an iPhone or iPod touch you may want to purchase an Apple Tv as it has the optical digital that the 3312 can send to any zone without the main zone being hijacked.
You might also want to in the future consider replacing your 8'' subs for a twelve to get all the low end sound effects that HD movies offer.
Adding; Just noticed that some of the diagrams in the link indicate using Sur. Backs, Heights or Wides without having Surround Sides but the Denon avr's require that you use your Sur. Sides first and then 1 of the others.
If the amp gets too hot, it'll shut itself down to avoid damage. As long as you're honest about not doing it terribly often, as long as you're not regularly tripping the protection circuits, I wouldn't worry about it... unless you're trying to sit on the AVR.
Do make sure it has plenty of breathing room to ventilate itself naturally, however, since you know you'll be pushing it.
Nah, I'm the only one that likes music really loud. It bugs the wife and kids so I only get to really jam when they aren't home. I've never blown a protection circuit on it yet, so I guess it's not all that bad. It does get freaking hot though; maybe I'm just being overly concerned about it. The AVR sits on top of my cabinet (not enclosed) with nothing on or around it so it gets as much ventilation as it can, short of putting fans on top.
The wife had company when I got home today so I wasn't able to push it and get a temperature reading. Perhaps tomorrow I can do that. I've never tried sitting on it, but for some reason my dog loves to lay in front of the speakers. I think she's being spiteful because she knows how much I like them.
electronics make heat when they are working... as long as you are giving it space to dissipate, you are generally ok... what kills them is allowing them to bathe in heat...
if you overdrive it, it will go into protection...
If I use my "net-usb" function and then change the function to....say my pc HDMI to reciever and whatever I was watching finshes(so no audio source but still video) and my last station on in net-usb can be heard! This also happened when after I used my net-usb to play pandora in my zone-2. The minute I turned it off, it could be faintly heard in the main zone even though main zone was on my "pc" source(this time nothing was feeding into it...it was just on).
I tried the search function..couldn't find anything on this issue. Am I doing something wrong? The only way that sometimes fixes it is exiting net-usb by shutting off all stations first THEN turning it off.
Holly Cow, I am a believer of AudysseyXT Hearing things in ROTS that Iv never notice . God ,I love this receiver!
Nice. I was already excited, but getting moreso reading all this. My 2112 shipped out this afternoon. Should be a nice improvement over my onkyo tx-sr503.
that's really a Harmony issue, not a Denon issue. The Harmony 300 is a really strpped down remote with only one "Activity" so you aren't going to get the sophisticated memorization of on/off states for your devices that you would with the nicer models. You might want to consider swapping the 300 for the nicer 650 model, which is only a bit more $$ but has much more functionality if you want to control multiple devices / activities.
Quote:
Originally Posted by crossbard
I've got a 1912 hooked up to my Sony TV, cable box and PS3.
Picked up a Logitech Harmony 300 remote, did the basic online programming and everything worked with less than 10 minutes work - that was sweet!!!!
Can someone give me some tips on adding some of the other Denon remote control options to the Harmony???
Another issue, I can hit the DVD button at the top to access the PS3 for watching DVD's or Netflix, everrything works great but stays stuck on the PS3 when done with it and I have to push the cable box button on the front of the Denon to get it back to the cable box and sometimes have to turn the power back on to the cable box as it puts it in standby when using the PS3.
The easiest way to get back to the TV is turn it off with the Watch TV button, turn it back on with the "Watch TV" button, hit cable box button on front of Denon and turn power back on to cable box. This way it remembers to turn all 3 units on and off.
Maybe I'm not toggling back from the PS3 correctly or don't have something programmed in the remote correctly for doing this.
Don't have time to look through 300+ pages of posts and a search didn't turn up much!!!
Thanks for any help on this issue.
Saw that the model 650 was on sale at Radio Shack for $49 and features backlighting so I picked it up.
Same easy to use programming and it solved all my concerns.
Would there be a better model than the 650 for running 4 components?
How's the battery life with the 650? Noticed the 700 has a cradle and rechargable batteries.
electronics make heat when they are working... as long as you are giving it space to dissipate, you are generally ok... what kills them is allowing them to bathe in heat...
if you overdrive it, it will go into protection...
Yeah, I know. Otherwise folks wouldn't vaporize when trying to steal transformers. I also know that heat is an enemy of electronics, which is why I'm asking about possibilities of protecting my unit, or if something may be wrong with it or I'm under powering my speakers for the load. This ain't my first rodeo.
Saw that the model 650 was on sale at Radio Shack for $49 and features backlighting so I picked it up.
Same easy to use programming and it solved all my concerns.
Would there be a better model than the 650 for running 4 components?
How's the battery life with the 650? Noticed the 700 has a cradle and rechargable batteries.
650 works with up to 5 components. Add your own rechargeables and you're set. Better yet two sets so you can swap them in... Nothing lamer than needing to charge your remote.
Yeah, I know. Otherwise folks wouldn't vaporize when trying to steal transformers. I also know that heat is an enemy of electronics, which is why I'm asking about possibilities of protecting my unit, or if something may be wrong with it or I'm under powering my speakers for the load. This ain't my first rodeo.
650 works with up to 5 components. Add your own rechargeables and you're set. Better yet two sets so you can swap them in... Nothing lamer than needing to charge your remote.
I will take this moment to strongly recommend Sanyo Eneloops for your rechargable battery needs. These things are amazing, unlike traditional rechargables which drain quickly when sitting idle, the Eneloops are super low discharge and will last for months. They are perfect for an application like a universal remote, if only because when you go to swap, your "backup" pair will still have charge remaining when you swap them in!
I will take this moment to strongly recommend Sanyo Eneloops for your rechargable battery needs. These things are amazing, unlike traditional rechargables which drain quickly when sitting idle, the Eneloops are super low discharge and will last for months. They are perfect for an application like a universal remote, if only because when you go to swap, your "backup" pair will still have charge remaining when you swap them in!
STRONGLY seconded. Love my Eneloops. I just rotate batteries in as needed, and stick the old ones in the charger, to go back into the "ready" pile when they're done, whenever I get around to it, but meanwhile I'm back up and running as fast as if I had been using Alkalines.
Nice. I was already excited, but getting moreso reading all this. My 2112 shipped out this afternoon. Should be a nice improvement over my onkyo tx-sr503.
Can I ask where you bought your 2112? I've called around to the usual sources like EE and ABT. Was hoping, to no avail, to also get them to quote lower pricing figuring these are about to go on clearance with the new models soon to be announced. Thanks.
Does any one here connect an HDMI to DVI cable from your receiver monitor out to a front projector? I have an old front projector that only accept DVI input and sometime I can get picture, other time when i power off/on projector or my receiver, i get no picture. I am ordering a different hdmi to dvi cable now to try out. The cable I am using and having problem is monoprice cable. Also, i am using an HTPC as source with ATI Radeon 4670 video card hdmi connection to my receiver and when i got the picture on my projector, my htpc sound playback property shows something like no plug in under hdmi? I am ordering a different hdmi cable to try out. Any clue to get the picture consistently on my pj and sound to show on my htpc? Thanks.
I just added a Harmony One to my 2112CI, which is amazing, however, I cant seem to add the AMP and CH Level buttons to the Harmony, those of you that have one, could you point me in the right direction, or clue me in on how you were able to add them? I also cant seem to get the PLAY and STOP buttons to work so I have resorted to using the enter for play. The Denon seems to be the most difficult to set up.
Can I ask where you bought your 2112? I've called around to the usual sources like EE and ABT. Was hoping, to no avail, to also get them to quote lower pricing figuring these are about to go on clearance with the new models soon to be announced. Thanks.
J R Electronics. He quoted $499 without me even asking and then came down a little off that. Someone started another thread saying they got it for $429 (no tax or shipping) from ABT.
Still having negotiation issues - Denon support blames the TV, and ignores the fact that if I put in a Onkyo Receiver between devices or if I plug directly to the TV everything works perfectly. I'm buying all new cables (again) this time from Monoprice. I'll go back to Onkyo the next time around.