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The **OFFICIAL** Denon AVR-XX12 Model Owner's Thread - Page 414

post #12391 of 17914
5/20/12 at 3:23pm
Quote:


Run the SMS-1 calibration first. (Presumably you've already done that, though; you should only need to run it again if you've moved furniture around or made other changes in your listening environment.) Then when you run Audyssey's calibration, it'll take it into account (by hearing a nearly flat response) and have that much less work to do. In principle, your sub's output should be more accurate with both EQ's working.
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Selden

Thanks Selden
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post #12392 of 17914
5/20/12 at 3:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwe416 View Post


Nothing has changed in the living room. I have noticed that the low volume is worse with DTS and not as bad with Dolby D.

When you say DTS, do you mean the HD-MA audio track, or the lossy DTS track?
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post #12393 of 17914
5/20/12 at 3:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Yes.

Thanks. I can't believe that Denon doesn't include switching Ac outlets on back. I have a 4" AC fan plugged into back of HK and for four years it has been installed onto side of cabinet with a hole cut to blow hot air out of cabinet into dead space behind fireplace. It has worked perfectly and I want the setup to remain the same. I have just recently added my uverse modem to the cabinet to allow for easy Ethernet to Denon and that thing surprising puts off some heat. There has to be a relatively easy way to keep using the AC fan and have it come on and off. I could always just leave it running (can't hear it inside the cabinet with everything off) but that seems like a waste. Even with a 'smart' strip I am not even sure what to use as the master because nothing ever really turns off. Everything goes into standby mode. With a smart strip, what is save to have on the switching outlets? I know my IR extender, DVR, and modem have to stay hot all the time. What about the AVR, plasma set, PS3? Is it safe for them to go 'dead' and then back on again? Seems safer for them to go in stand by mode. There has to be a simple solution that lets me use my AC fan that is currently installed.
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post #12394 of 17914
5/20/12 at 3:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jconjason View Post

When you say DTS, do you mean the HD-MA audio track, or the lossy DTS track?

It is HD-MA.
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post #12395 of 17914
5/20/12 at 7:44pm
Possible buyers remorse even before delivery of 2312CI. As I have posted numerous times I am 'upgrading' from a HK AVR 635 (purchased in 2005). Question, is the 2312CI considered an upgrade? MSRP of HK was $1100. MSRP of 2312CI is $850. I only have a 5.1 system with Klipsh RB25 all the way around. Volume level from HK has never really been a problem. Room is living room completely open on one end and is about 15' deep by 18' wide with 10' ceilings. Since the HK provided satisfactory levels I assume the 2312CI will as well? Also I got the 2312CI at a great price ($515 delivered). Onecall wanted over $800 for 3312CI. I doubt I would ever use most of the additional features of the 3312CI and the extra 20 watts per channel is probably negligible in real life use. Maybe I am just over analyzing things too much and the 2312CI will be a vast improvement over what I have now. Someone make me feel better about 2312CI...…
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post #12396 of 17914
5/20/12 at 7:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by MCF34 View Post

Someone make me feel better about 2312CI...

I think the Audyssey MultEQ feature might make you feel good.
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post #12397 of 17914
5/20/12 at 8:35pm
Hello everybody, happy to join your community, my first post here.

And I will start from a problem I have.

I own denon 2312Ci, I have connected two fronts and a sub.

Before and after audyssey setup I tried to play 63hz and 80hz samples with crossover set to 100hz/80hz, speakers set to small (tried in large also with advanced crossover for fronts to 100hz), but I clearly hear the sound from front with sub off and sub on. All looks like double bass. Changing fronts to large full band does not make any differences in loudness of a sound.

Please advice, is it supposed to be like this? Is there any sound in working systems? I understand that crossover is not a "brick wall" but I really don't hear any difference with crossover on and off. The only thing I know that if I set crossover to 250 my sub give more bass, so crossover sends signals to sub as supposed, but does not cut it from fronts. I have the same settings for crossover in stereo/2 CH.

I did processor reset. All the same.
Sub connected to LFE, in settings it is LFE only. Without +mains.

Thank you!
Andrey

Anyone???
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post #12398 of 17914
5/20/12 at 9:21pm
I have a AVR-1312 for almost a month now. I got it as part of the BA speaker package (DHT1312BA). For the most part I am happy with it, but it is amazing how quick you start wishing you had more features.

One item I am having issues with is that I am running my PC (NVidia HDMI) connection into the DVD input of the receiver. I dont have any video issues at all, but I do have problems with the Audio. If I have the AVR set to my PC channel and then I turn on the PC, the audio will work just fine. If I use the AVR and change to various inputs then go back to the PC I lose the audio. If I do nothing but reboot PC then the audio comes back.

My TV Samsung HL61A750 has 3 HDMI inputs, so I have plugged my PC in direct to it and then connected the optical audio to the reciever and this seems to work fine all the time. This isnt my ideal permanent setup because in order to use 3D video I will need to run all the sources to one HDMI that will run through the Mitsubishi 3DA-1. Just trying to figure out of this is something with the AVR or if I should be looking in the HTPC forums.

Anyone ever have this issue?
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post #12399 of 17914
5/20/12 at 10:44pm
Hi all - my first post on this forum although have spent a lot of time here. I do have a query on the restrictions for playing audio to Zone2 that JD refers to in his very lengthy and informative post on the Denon players.

Quote:


13. Zone 2

...
b. Source Limitations: XX12 models: No XX12 model can pass HDMI audio to Zone 2. The 1912, 2112CI, and 2312CI will only pass Airplay, internet radio and external “analog only” sources to Zone 2; but cannot pass HDMI or other digital audio sources connected to the AVR to Zone 2. This limitation is common to the vast majority (98%) of all AVRs on the market today. It applies whether you're using the powered Surr Back/Amp Assign speaker posts or the Zone 2 preout jacks to an external amp. ...
XX13 models: The same “analog” only from external sources limitation applies to all Zone 2 XX13 models when using the Zone 2 pre-outs or SurrBack/Amp Assign speaker posts (breaking the former 33XX series capability of being able to pass PCM 2.0 over optical/digital coax to Zone 2). The 3313CI is also able to pass a dedicated HDMI source to Zone 2 via an HDMI Zone 2 output.

Does this mean that using say an AppleTV connection via HDMI would render Zone 2 audio unoperable (including if the Optical audio connector was used)?
The reason is I have a couple of speakers that I prefer to listen to music through as opposed to home theatre but my music library is accessed via an AppleTV. I recognise that this does become a bit redundent if using the in-biult Airplay but I also wonder how, if the digital audio inputs are not able to be played into Zone2, that Airplay achieves this feat?

Any views / broader explanation would be much appreciated.
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post #12400 of 17914
5/21/12 at 12:39am
I'm looking for recommendations (with links) for another amp for my two Zone 2 deck speakers? I have a Denon 3312 and don't want to give up my surrounds to power my Zone 2 deck speakers, so I believe I need another amp. What should I be looking for? I'm relatively new to this so any help and examples of amps with links would be appreciated.
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post #12401 of 17914
5/21/12 at 1:37am
^^
Any 2CH amp or old AVR will do. Check on Craigslist for a used amp or if you prefer new, try the one below.

Here's your link ----> http://www.amazon.com/AudioSource-AM.../dp/B00026BQJ6

Refer to the Zone 2 section of post #3 linked in my sig.
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post #12402 of 17914
5/21/12 at 1:44am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bozwell View Post

Hi all - my first post on this forum although have spent a lot of time here. I do have a query on the restrictions for playing audio to Zone2 that JD refers to in his very lengthy and informative post on the Denon players.


Does this mean that using say an AppleTV connection via HDMI would render Zone 2 audio unoperable (including if the Optical audio connector was used)?
The reason is I have a couple of speakers that I prefer to listen to music through as opposed to home theatre but my music library is accessed via an AppleTV. I recognise that this does become a bit redundent if using the in-biult Airplay but I also wonder how, if the digital audio inputs are not able to be played into Zone2, that Airplay achieves this feat?

Any views / broader explanation would be much appreciated.

It means that no HMDI audio passes to Zone 2, so in addition to the HDMI cable you would also have to connect the optical cable. In the case of the 3312CI, that's it ... you're good to go. In the case of every other lower level Zone 2 model it means you would have to connect an optical --> analog converter between the ATV and the AVR.
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post #12403 of 17914
5/21/12 at 1:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by captbly View Post

I have a AVR-1312 for almost a month now. I got it as part of the BA speaker package (DHT1312BA). For the most part I am happy with it, but it is amazing how quick you start wishing you had more features.

One item I am having issues with is that I am running my PC (NVidia HDMI) connection into the DVD input of the receiver. I dont have any video issues at all, but I do have problems with the Audio. If I have the AVR set to my PC channel and then I turn on the PC, the audio will work just fine. If I use the AVR and change to various inputs then go back to the PC I lose the audio. If I do nothing but reboot PC then the audio comes back.

My TV Samsung HL61A750 has 3 HDMI inputs, so I have plugged my PC in direct to it and then connected the optical audio to the reciever and this seems to work fine all the time. This isnt my ideal permanent setup because in order to use 3D video I will need to run all the sources to one HDMI that will run through the Mitsubishi 3DA-1. Just trying to figure out of this is something with the AVR or if I should be looking in the HTPC forums.

Anyone ever have this issue?

Issues with HTPCs are quite common ... some working better than others. Please refer to the Troubleshooting section in post #3 linked in my sig, section 12(l) - HTPC audio/video issues.
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post #12404 of 17914
5/21/12 at 2:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy_KZ View Post

Please advice, is it supposed to be like this? Is there any sound in working systems? I understand that crossover is not a "brick wall" but I really don't hear any difference with crossover on and off. The only thing I know that if I set crossover to 250 my sub give more bass, so crossover sends signals to sub as supposed, but does not cut it from fronts. I have the same settings for crossover in stereo/2 CH.

I did processor reset. All the same.
Sub connected to LFE, in settings it is LFE only. Without +mains.

Thank you!
Andrey

Anyone???

Suggest you refer this to Denon Customer support.
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post #12405 of 17914
5/21/12 at 4:48am
Quote:
Originally Posted by MCF34 View Post

Possible buyers remorse even before delivery of 2312CI. As I have posted numerous times I am 'upgrading' from a HK AVR 635 (purchased in 2005). Question, is the 2312CI considered an upgrade? MSRP of HK was $1100. MSRP of 2312CI is $850. I only have a 5.1 system with Klipsh RB25 all the way around. Volume level from HK has never really been a problem. Room is living room completely open on one end and is about 15' deep by 18' wide with 10' ceilings. Since the HK provided satisfactory levels I assume the 2312CI will as well? Also I got the 2312CI at a great price ($515 delivered). Onecall wanted over $800 for 3312CI. I doubt I would ever use most of the additional features of the 3312CI and the extra 20 watts per channel is probably negligible in real life use. Maybe I am just over analyzing things too much and the 2312CI will be a vast improvement over what I have now. Someone make me feel better about 2312CI......

I wouldn't worry about it at all. I have the 3312 and pretty much had the same analysis as you - its just variations on the exact same platform, likely pretty similar current out of both - but I will end up using the zone 2 optical out.

Wasn't willing to pay the premium from 2312 to new 3312 and got the 3312 used instead.
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post #12406 of 17914
5/21/12 at 6:30am
Hi! I have a Denon AVR 2112. After using the troobleshooting guide I am finally able to get the subwoofer to play during movies. But I still am unable to get the SW to play when in tuner listening to the radio.

Please advise. Thanks!
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post #12407 of 17914
5/21/12 at 6:34am
Make sure your front speakers are set to small.
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post #12408 of 17914
5/21/12 at 6:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Szeppelin75 View Post

No my phne sees the 1912 but when i try to play a file it says "an error has ocurred". anyone?

It fixed itself. The AVr started lloking for a network connection, and once it did i had no problem playing my files from my android.
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post #12409 of 17914
5/21/12 at 7:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
Also, Dyn EQ boosts the bass/surround audio at volume levels below 0db to more closely match what the mixer intended which is why you'll want to leave it ON at all times.

It has less to do with the "mixer" and more to due with your ears...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fletche...3Munson_curves

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robinson-Dadson_curves

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equal-loudness_contour

Generalized, the ear perceives different frequencies at different levels, even though these frequencies have the same amplitude. This is not a function of the sound reproduction equipment or technique employed; it is a result of the geometry and physiology of the ear. In particular -- at low amplitudes, the ear has very poor response to low frequencies. For this reason, bass boost can be employed (historical: "loudness control") to mitigate the Fletcher-Munson effect and (mostly) restore perception of a "flat" audio spectrum.

Wrooster
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post #12410 of 17914
5/21/12 at 7:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnythan View Post

Make sure your front speakers are set to small.

Not sure if this is meant for me, but I followed the following directions in this guide step by step before posting:

Quote:


t. Sub not working: If there is no audio coming from the sub, it could be the sub is dead, the sub's power cord isn't plugged in and the sub powered ON, the sub coax digital cable is bad, there is an issue with the AVR sub preout, or the AVR's speaker settings are incorrect. First make sure the sub is plugged in and powered ON. Remove the cable from the AVR sub preout jack and rub your finger over the connector tip. You should hear some static from the sub. If not, replace the cable with another cable (use a "yellow" composite video cable to test with) and try again. If still no noise from the sub, then you may have a busted sub. Otherwise if there is noise from the sub, the issue is with the AVR. Make sure that all speakers are set to SMALL with no lower than 80hz crossovers which will then pass all audio below 80hz to the sub. If you have your front speakers set to LARGE and the sub set to LFE, then although the sub will play the low bass in the 0.1 (LFE) channel during DD/DTS 5.1 movies, it will not play the low bass in stereo (2.0) music unless you change the sub setting to LFE+Main, although the issue with no bass during music is alleviated if the front mains are set to SMALL w/80hz crossovers as is suggested after running AUTO SETUP.

This fixed the SW to work with my movies. It is still not working when I am listening to music on the tuner.
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post #12411 of 17914
5/21/12 at 7:57am
^^
If you are using STEREO surround mode, check your STEREO settings (p. 90) to ensure the front speakers are set to SMALL there as well. Also there may just not be a lot of bass in the audio you're listening to.

System Setup --> Audio Setup --> 2CH Direct/Stereo
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post #12412 of 17914
5/21/12 at 8:21am
Thank you so much!!!! That did the trick. Sounds awesome now.
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post #12413 of 17914
5/21/12 at 8:37am
I recently purchased an AVR-1712 to replace my troubled Onkyo HTIB. I have read the Denon AVR-XX12/XX13 FAQ/Setup/Troubleshooting Guide and the Audyssey Setup Guide. It seems to me that if I make an adjustment to the channel levels with the CH LEVEL button, to have the unit remember my settings I must save them with the quick select button. I was curious about setting them back to where Audyssey had set them origianlly. So I went to the channel level menu under the speaker setup menu and set to default. Well this just sets everything to 0. Luckily I didn't save to quick select so I was able to restore the channel levels. So, my question, is the a way to save the channel levels that Audyssey sets or a way to restore to the Audsyssey channel levels?
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post #12414 of 17914
5/21/12 at 9:01am
^^
Parameter Check --> Restore (p. 19)
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post #12415 of 17914
5/21/12 at 9:06am
Thanks for the quick reply. Looked it up in the manual and there it is. I Like the Denon but trying to figure out all the settings is hard. I know everyone says that. Thanks again.
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post #12416 of 17914
5/21/12 at 9:17am
I just bought a 1312 for my living room soundbar setup and about 10 seconds after powering on, once the amps kick in, it kills my RF remotes (Universal MRF-260 and MX-350). Once I shut it off, my remotes work again. I've tried moving the MRF receiver and also plugging the AVR-1312 into a different outlet but still have the same problem. I have not had a receiver emit this kind of interference before and I'm wondering if it might have a defect. In the same rack of equipment is a Onkyo TX-NR1008, Harman Kardon AVR 230, Two power amps, 4 computers, and misc disc players and all was fine until I added the Denon. The strange this is it does not affect my MRF-250 receiver, just the newer MRF-260 which is their "narrow band" model but they both use 418MHz. I'm thinking I should just return it, any ideas?
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post #12417 of 17914
5/21/12 at 9:28am
^^
If you're sure it's the 1312 causing the issue, replace it. Have you tried the troubleshooting tips listed in the MRF-260 Owner's manual?
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post #12418 of 17914
5/21/12 at 9:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
Any 2CH amp or old AVR will do. Check on Craigslist for a used amp or if you prefer new, try the one below.

Here's your link ----> http://www.amazon.com/AudioSource-AM.../dp/B00026BQJ6

Refer to the Zone 2 section of post #3 linked in my sig.

Thanks - I've never heard of AudioSource before, but the reviews are mostly positive and the price is right. Would either of these be better options for ~$100 more? What would I gain from them? I'm willing to spend a little more if its worth it. It will be used to power a pair Bose 251 outdoor speakers.

http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-M-282-2-...=2IHAVPHE3XPGK

http://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-1612...=2IHAVPHE3XPGK
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post #12419 of 17914
5/21/12 at 9:50am
^^
Both would be overkill if you just want background music levels in Zone 2 ... the 1612 would add the flexibility of connecting other sources and/or video.
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post #12420 of 17914
5/21/12 at 9:58am
Guys,
I had to rerun auto set up due to the arrival of my new sub. I noticed that when I save the config file on my 2312, it shown the file is 340kb but when I open it, it is BLANK. I still have the old config that I saved months ago, and it has data when opening in notepad. What causes? Thanks.
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AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › The **OFFICIAL** Denon AVR-XX12 Model Owner's Thread