The **OFFICIAL** Denon AVR-XX12 Model Owner's Thread - Page 432

^^
Either follow the instructions posted in post #5 of this thread or look on p. 94 of your Owner's manual.

Thanks guys, just reset the microprocessor and it was all working fine... until 10 minutes later when it started resetting again

I downloaded the latest firmware (0006) this week. The overall process took about 90 minutes. This was by far my worst upgrade experience with my 2112. The first three firmware modules (Main, DSP and OSD) arrived without incident. As reported by others here, the EIMG module was a problem. Over the course of 15 to 20 minutes, it would count down from 3 minutes, to 2 minutes, to 1 minute, then start over. It took three tries before EIMG downloaded successfully.

While it was downloading, I put a sniffer on my internet connection and monitored the data transfer. The download comes from a server at 202.218.251.101, which is in Japan somewhere at least 23 router hops away. Reverse DNS entry maps to firmware.denon.jp. The download speed was about 70 kbps. (my internet connection is typically 8-10 Mbps). No TCP errors or retransmit were noted. The slow download speeds might be due to trans-Pacific network congestion, an overloaded Denon server, or some other issue. The reason for the multiple downloads of the EIMG module is unknown.

I checked the Firmware rev numbers after the upgrade process was complete. The new firmware lineup is as follows:
Firmware - 0006
MAIN - 01170036
MAIN FBL - 00.16
DSP - 64.23
Audio PLD - 06.04
OSD - 49110028

The 2112 rebooted successfully after the upgrade completed and has been working fine since. No improvements (nor new bugs) observed.

i have the hdmi cable plugged int the arc on my panasonic 55gt50,what does my denon 2112 have to be set to to hear the audio(netflix etc.) on my 5.1 setup?

^^

Set HDMI Control to "ON".

Take a few minutes and review the ARC info in post #3 --> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...?p=20422009#E5

Nice informative post. Thanks!

So setting up my Harmony for the 2312CI and everything going pretty well. A couple of questions - 1. Is there a button on the stock remote that will call up a screen to show the current status of the source (i.e. Dolby digital, etc. etc.). I have already programmed Ch Level and Menu for every source but wonder if there is a button that shows status.

2. I plan on getting another Harmony remote to allow me to download older versions of Denon receivers so I can learn more useful commands. What model(s) of older/newer Denons have very useful buttons and what buttons would you consider a must to have on a remote (another poster said that even though buttons aren't on the newer remotes the commands from older (and newer) Denon remotes still work)? THanks!

There's all sorts of cool buttons on my 889 remote. Dynamic EQ comes to mind.

Cool. Dynamic Eq would be cool, Dynamic Volume Setting would be nice. Also some sort of status to see about Audyssey Settings, etc. etc..

after a fair amount of troubleshooting..turns out the culprit is a partially burned out Russound Altx wall mounted volume switch. Confirmed this via swapping switches, speaker wires, going one by one with each speaker..you name it, any combination was accomplished...as well as visible scorch marks on the plastic surrounding the copper winding on the input side of the switch. Other 2 switches in other locations dont have these burn/scorch marks.

Builder (home is new) coming out to replace it tomorrow. Have no idea how/why as the volume on the Denon hasnt exceeded about 60% of volume..and all wiring is correct/not shorting.

There is a button MultiEq button that toggles between Audyssey (movie), Audyssey Music, and Off. Also, the Dynamic Eq button is a Dyn Eq/Vol button and toggles between "Dyn Eq Off/Dyn Vol Off" "Dyn Eq On/Dyn Vol Off" "Dyn Eq On/Dyn Vol Midnight" "Dyn Eq On/Dyn Vol Evening" and "Dyn Eq On/Dyn Vol Day"

I also like the "Dimmer" and "Status" buttons.

Does these banana plugs fit the 2112CI.

I bought those and couldn't fit them. I don't think there is a plastic lug that need to be removed to use the banana plugs. so, how? or did I order wrong ones?

They look like they would. But why not get the known-good plugs from monoprice?

but from what I read, lot of people like their cables but not the banana plugs and anyway, I already bought these.

so, any clues on how do I plug them in? I afraid to put more pressure to insert them in. Do I need to unscrew before I insert the bp or what?

I know this is beating a dead..... but I'm still trying to understand why bi-amping doesn't gain you more headroom or audio-quality. I know the FAQ says so, and lots of replies in the past year have reiterated that "passive bi-amping" is worthless, but then the details have gone off-the-rails with technical details.

Is the issue: That the limiting factor is the *shared* part of the amplifier design rather than the individual 'amplifier' outputs? I would also assume that the shared part of the design was capable of putting out far more power than an individual channel was designed to do. Assuming that, if you compare:
1. a single speaker connected to a single channel
2. that same single speaker but with the woofer separately linked to one channel while the tweeter was separately linked to a 2nd channel
Why wouldn't you have more available power?

If, however, each individual channel is capable of max'ing the shared part of the design, then it's clear that spreading the load across two channels would not help. But is that the case??

Ok, some of you may have seen that I posted last night that my 1612 kept restarting itself constantly. I tried resetting the Microprocessor which worked... for ten minutes. I unplugged it overnight, just turned it on and it is still constantly resetting. However, after leaving it to keep resetting itself for 10 minutes it suddenly stayed on. Did the same thing last night, so I'm expecting it to start messing up again soon..... and it just has!

Here's a video of the problem - http://youtu.be/vYLfIzCXqlA

I think maybe I need to speak to Denon. I'm in the UK and have found their contact number - where can I find the serial number incase they need it?

^^
Yup, you've got a defective unit there for sure. The serial number should be located on the box the AVR came in and can also be determined by doing the procedure listed in post #6 to determine the firmware version.

Thanks man. The options are:

Main: XXXXXXX
Main FBL: XX.XX
DSP: XX.XX
Audio PLD: XX.XX
OSD: XXXXXXXX

I assume the first 'main' result is the serial number.

^^
AFAIK, the serial number should display before the firmware versions which is what you posted. It should be a 10 or 11 digit number that begins with "1" if you purchased the AVR last year. If not, as I said, just check the outside of the box.

I have Silverbacks and didn't have a problem. The speaker connector should be screwed in tight. You do need to exert a fair amount of pressure when inserting the banana plug. At first, I thought it might not work, but they were fine with a little extra force.

Yes.. I use them on my 2312, they are snug but that is a good thing.
I have had my 2312 out of the cabinet twice and the plugs were easily removed and installed again without issue.

Although I didn't try these on my 2312, I did on my Def Tech 1000's and do not like that they do not plug in nice and snug. I have placed a good amount of pressure on them, but they do not seem to fit well at all. Having said that, I have not had any trouble with them.

As the other poster mentioned, just screw in the speaker terminal all the way and then plug them in. I would expect them to stick out, but would be very surprised if they didn't work.

Is the volume level from say -5db to 20db linear? I have not turned up the 2312 past about -3db (and only watching Uverse without much of a surround broadcast) and was wondering how much 'louder' the system will go while watching a movie. Is it safe to push the receiver to +5,+ 10, +15db???

Let's say each channel is capable of 100W. You have to remember that your crossover network in your speakers is basically a resistor. On your tweeter you have a resistor on the low frequency stuff, and on the woofer, there is basically a resistor on the high frequency stuff.

If you have 1 amp set up the normal way, since electricity follows the paths of least resistance, the high frequency stuff finds it's way to the tweeter and the low frequency stuff to the woofer and you can use all 100W of the signal.

In a passive bi-amp configuration, you are sending the same full-range signal to both the tweeter and the woofer. The tweeter is discarding the bottom "half" of that signal because of the crossover and therefore is only using "half" of it, and the woofer is discarding the top "half" of its signal and therefore only using "half" of it as well, so you are back to having only 100W to each speaker.

I'm over simplifying quite a bit since crossovers aren't brick walls and the HF and LF parts of the signal aren't exactly 1/2 and 1/2, etc, but that's the gist as I understand it.

Hi
Newbie poster but longer time lurker. This forum helped me decide to grab a 2112 for new system. I've got Polk RTi A3 Fronts, Csi 4 center and RTi 4s for the back (all new) - 12g wire to all.

My SW however is the issue. Before this, I was using the JBL ESC 333 HT and it has served me well (over 10 yrs old). I has a coaxial in (and spdif) so I thought it would be a simple matter to hook the coax preamp form the 2112 out to the sub but I cannot get any sound out of it. Now to be fair, I do not have a 'labeled' coax cable as I don't have one in the house and haven't found a shop yet that carries it (I live in Doha, Qatar). I tried the yellow rca, I tried the composite cables, but no noise yet. The test tone goes to all the other speakers but there is no tone for the sub. I've checked out multiple other sources direct to the sub - no problem (using the cables I listed above). I've even bumped all the crossovers up to 250 hz to see if I could get anything - no.

So I'm left with 3 possibilities - 1. the 2112 is very fussy about what type of cable (I just read on another thread that is a possibility) 2. my preamp needs a post mortem. or 3. the 2112 sends a signal that my SW can't recognize (unlikely). I'm really hoping it's #1 b/c the shipping from here to the US for fixing is prohibitive (not to mention the raised eyebrow by my wife).

Any suggestions would be helpful. I do believe I can find a 'proper' coax cable here if I need to (or ship it in via Amazon). Or I can purchase the PA SW to cut the losses.

Is there any way to check and see if the coax preamp is sending any signal? Voltage meter? I'm not an electrical guy so maybe that's a stupid question.

Thanks for any help.

The JBL sub isn't a standard sub. It doesn't appear to have a sub input - it only has analog and digital inputs meant to take a full-range signal.

It sounds like you're trying to plug your Sub Out from the receiver to the "Coaxial" input on the JBL sub. The "coaxial" input is a digital SPDIF input meant for multichannel audio input. The Sub Out from the receiver is mono analog audio.

You should be plugging the cable into the Left input next to "Analog Inputs" and "TV."

^^
Good catch.

@molechi - That sub is only 65W and designed to be used with the HTIB. You would be much better served selling that JBL setup and purchasing a stand alone sub that is designed to be connected to an AVR sub pre-out.

Yes, that too.

Wow, you guys are fast. Thanks for your suggestions - I will try switching the cable tonight. I figured there was something a little different with the inputs on the JBL but I'm glad someone can give me the full explanation. Want to buy a JBL system? I will try and sell it though I doubt I can get much for it (the remote isn't 100% and one satellite signal is gone - I guess I should just call it a day considering 10 years of service). I was also going to use the JBL satellites for Zone 2 in the kitchen. They max out at 35w so I'd have to be careful about volume. My wife would like to have the zone 2 to play music when the kids are watching TV. Thanks again - I'll let you know if it makes a difference.