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The **OFFICIAL** Denon AVR-XX12 Model Owner's Thread - Page 481

post #14401 of 17928
7/9/12 at 12:31pm
^^
Try using the other component video input as well as the other HDMI inputs to see if the same issue remains. Otherwise you may be looking at exchanging the unit.
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post #14402 of 17928
7/9/12 at 3:14pm
No gapless streaming of FLAC on 3312 mad.gif

bummer.............can't have it all I suppose..............

guess I need to hook up the old Squeezebox again...........................sigh...............
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post #14403 of 17928
7/9/12 at 4:43pm
Well it seems like going from my 3808 to the 3312 has been nothing like my prior three Denon AVR 'upgrades': tonight I put on Tivo(Comcast) only to get no picture nor sound. I thought it might be a handshake issue, nope, then reboot the tivo (several times), no, try my Popcorn hour to see if something else played (it did) and then I swapped the HDMI from one input (the Tivo one) to the input for the Popcorn hour and there: i had video (HDMI5). I tried the Popcorn Hour in the Tivo input (HDMI4) and same thing: no picture. I tried HDMI6 and that works but HDMI's 1 through 4 do not function. I don't get audio or video input or output so it looks like it's time to send it back for a new one (hopefully).
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post #14404 of 17928
7/9/12 at 5:02pm
^^
As a last resort, always heed the advice suggested in the last line in my sig. wink.gif
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post #14405 of 17928
7/9/12 at 5:25pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
As a last resort, always heed the advice suggested in the last line in my sig. wink.gif
And that's what I did - the last resort after trying other things: reset the microprocessor and after HDMI4 not working 'again' they are all back to functioning.
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post #14406 of 17928
7/9/12 at 6:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

When I use the "CH Level" remote button, the GUI stays on the screen for about five seconds. Is there a way to keep it there longer?
I'm now assuming that the answer to this question is no. I've spent a lot of time roaming through the menus and found nothing to increase the channel level time on the screen without control input. For the old, decrepit, and slow of wit, a few more seconds would have been nice.
Quote:
Are the "CH Level" settings saved? If I bump the volume of the center channel or the sub during a movie, would I have to go back into Manual Setup or use the "CH Level" button to restore speaker balance?
The CH Level changes are saved, and override the "balance channels" settings which remain unchanged.

After I make a center channel change, for a movie that needs a dialog boost, I will need to use the CH Level button again to restore channel balance.
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post #14407 of 17928
7/9/12 at 7:54pm
I just received a new 3312 and had a concern. forgive me if it's been previously addressed - there's a LOT of info to sift through.

coming from a 12ish year old yamaha rx-v995, this is my first receiver since then. the first thing i noticed was that the 3312 got hot quickly even just running audyssey and moreso than the 995 ever got even with hours of hard use on the old yammy. is this normal?
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post #14408 of 17928
7/9/12 at 7:59pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by brendelac View Post

I just received a new 3312 and had a concern. forgive me if it's been previously addressed - there's a LOT of info to sift through.

coming from a 12ish year old yamaha rx-v995, this is my first receiver since then. the first thing i noticed was that the 3312 got hot quickly even just running audyssey and moreso than the 995 ever got even with hours of hard use on the old yammy. is this normal?
Your new AVR has a graphics chip that runs hot. To see which xx12 models have graphics capability check the second post in this thread.
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post #14409 of 17928
7/9/12 at 8:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Your new AVR has a graphics chip that runs hot. To see which xx12 models have graphics capability check the second post in this thread.
ok so it's normal. i guess that's a good thing. hot running electronics made in china leaves me a bit uneasy, but we'll see how it goes...
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post #14410 of 17928
7/9/12 at 8:15pm
Hi, I believe what I am about to describe is a "handshake" issue, but I'm not really positive what that term applies to.

I have the Denon 2112ci. I have had it almost one year, and over that time have consistently had nuisance issues with audio not working at times. Connected to my AVR is a PS3, Time Warner DVR, and Panasonic Viera TV. The issues I have largely occur when trying to play the audio from my PS3 or DVR through the AVR. For example, almost everytime I go to turn the PS3 on, video will be passed through the AVR appropriately, but there will be no audio. I have to usually turn the AVR on and off again, and the audio will then work. (I am referring to audio being played through speakers connected to the AVR) I have tried turning the TV on first, then AVR (switching to PS3 input), then turning the PS3 on - doesn't work. I have tried every order, and pretty much have the same problem every time.

Same thing tends to happen with the AVR, but not as consistently.

The only other issue I sometimes have is with video. I will see flashes of "white snow"-like screens. I think I have noticed this to occur when changing from a HD to non-HD format or vice versa on the AVR. It is also remedied by turning on and off components and/or the AVR.

My firmware is up to date. Everything is connected using mediabridge HDMI cables. The AVR is set to have the DVR video to pass-through when off.

I have searched this forum and haven't really found a solution. Is this just something I have to live with? Does anyone else have this consistent problem?
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post #14411 of 17928
7/9/12 at 8:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by brendelac View Post

ok so it's normal. i guess that's a good thing. hot running electronics made in china leaves me a bit uneasy, but we'll see how it goes...

yeah, my 3312 was too hot for my taste after one day of op.

I solved it with a 120mm fan on top sucking the heat out. Works great, the top is just warm now, perfectly acceptable to me.
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post #14412 of 17928
7/10/12 at 2:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by sanbalto View Post

Hi, I believe what I am about to describe is a "handshake" issue, but I'm not really positive what that term applies to.
I have the Denon 2112ci. I have had it almost one year, and over that time have consistently had nuisance issues with audio not working at times. Connected to my AVR is a PS3, Time Warner DVR, and Panasonic Viera TV. The issues I have largely occur when trying to play the audio from my PS3 or DVR through the AVR. For example, almost everytime I go to turn the PS3 on, video will be passed through the AVR appropriately, but there will be no audio. I have to usually turn the AVR on and off again, and the audio will then work. (I am referring to audio being played through speakers connected to the AVR) I have tried turning the TV on first, then AVR (switching to PS3 input), then turning the PS3 on - doesn't work. I have tried every order, and pretty much have the same problem every time.
Same thing tends to happen with the AVR, but not as consistently.
The only other issue I sometimes have is with video. I will see flashes of "white snow"-like screens. I think I have noticed this to occur when changing from a HD to non-HD format or vice versa on the AVR. It is also remedied by turning on and off components and/or the AVR.
My firmware is up to date. Everything is connected using mediabridge HDMI cables. The AVR is set to have the DVR video to pass-through when off.
I have searched this forum and haven't really found a solution. Is this just something I have to live with? Does anyone else have this consistent problem?

Lot's of troubleshooting tips provided in post #3 of this thread to include this one on "white sparkles" .....

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1334369/the-official-denon-avr-xx12-model-owners-thread/0_100#user_L24
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post #14413 of 17928
7/10/12 at 4:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

The same way you would for 2.1, or 4.1, or 5.1 or 6.1 or 7.1 .... simply plug in the Audyssey mic and let AUTO SETUP configure your setup. wink.gif

Thanks. Doesnt really show it supporting 3.1 in the manual. I have to run this way for a time, and that was holding me back from picking up a 2112CI.

Needless to say, I've purchased the receiver and, as you said, Audyssey set it up for 3.1 perfectly.
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post #14414 of 17928
7/10/12 at 4:53am
Right ... it's a "surround sound" AVR which implies 5.1/6.1/7.1; however, all surround sound AVRs will support 2.0 and higher. smile.gif
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post #14415 of 17928
7/10/12 at 1:12pm
i have a Denon AVR 1312 model receiver and it is causing my screen to surge black two-three times in quick succession after being in use for approximately 3-5 hrs. turning the receiver off for a period of time has it stopped, but then it will start up again 3-5 hrs later.

I have it in a cabinet with an open front end, nothing stacked on it, and what looks to be about 3-5 inches of space on either side and aout 6 inches on top. The back end is enclosed, but there is 8 inches or so of space behind the back wall.

Is my reciever bad? Is it overheating? I bought it less than 6 months ago. Is there anything I can do to fix this issue?
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post #14416 of 17928
7/10/12 at 1:14pm
Does it happen with all sources or with just a particular source? If all sources, you can try resetting the microprocessor (p. 57) and see if that resolves the issue.
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post #14417 of 17928
7/10/12 at 1:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by McQn View Post

i have a Denon AVR 1312 model receiver and it is causing my screen to surge black two-three times in quick succession after being in use for approximately 3-5 hrs. turning the receiver off for a period of time has it stopped, but then it will start up again 3-5 hrs later.
I have it in a cabinet with an open front end, nothing stacked on it, and what looks to be about 3-5 inches of space on either side and aout 6 inches on top. The back end is enclosed, but there is 8 inches or so of space behind the back wall.
Is my reciever bad? Is it overheating? I bought it less than 6 months ago. Is there anything I can do to fix this issue?

Sounds like a classic case of overheating. What is the temp inside your room? Could be a hot HDMI cable/connector too from a cheaper cable. A long while back with different equipment I had some unexplained glitching going on. When I pulled the HDMI connector on the offending device the metal part of the plug was extremely hot. I would try a cooling solution with your cabinet before anything else or an upgraded cable for temperature if possible. I have some cables rated at 70C, others at 80C, usually the temp rating is displayed on the cable. Build quality is very important with HDMI.
Edited by Stilly77 - 7/10/12 at 1:49pm
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post #14418 of 17928
7/10/12 at 1:59pm
When I read "cooling solution" for some reason I immediately had a mental image of someone pouring cold chemicals over the receiver wink.gif

A cabinet with an enclosed back is going to cause the receiver to overheat. There's no way around that: the hot air has no place to go. A fan is essential to get the hot air out of the cabinet. Blowing the hot air out through holes cut into the back or top panel would be a good solution, so cool air can enter from the front.
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post #14419 of 17928
7/10/12 at 2:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post

When I read "cooling solution" for some reason I immediately had a mental image of someone pouring cold chemicals over the receiver wink.gif

Add one jug of Prestone directly to AVR .................NOT biggrin.gif
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post #14420 of 17928
7/10/12 at 5:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bkucera View Post

Ah, I looked last night but somehow missed it. So mine, for "Firmware Package Version" says "|". Is that normal? It's definitely not a 1. Other values are:
Main: 00.95
Main FBL: 00.18
Sub: 51100029
Sub FBL: 00.02
HDSDK: V1.12
HDBBP: C0004.200
Are any of those related to the firmware version? Do I actually have the latest?

I finally got home early enough to call Denon, after 11 days of not hearing anything back from posting on their support website. He had me do a network reset with the ethernet unplugged, then turn it off, then reset the cable modem, then plug the ethernet in, then turn the AVR back on. That got it back to a state where it could see that there was a firmware update. Now it displays these settings:

Firm. Package Ver. 0001
Main: 00.95
Main FBL: 00.18
Sub 51100029
Sub FBL 00.02
DSP 65.22
Audio PLD 08.04
GUI 50110091
Ethernet FBL 090311-bd
Ethernet SBL B201107071124-0A
Ethernet IMG I201110190153
Ethernet MAC 0005cd-252de0
HDSDK V1.12
HDBBP C0004.200

I'm debating whether or not I want to try again. The Denon support guy was going on about how updating your firmware is like calling the home remodelers out when there's nothing wrong with your house and how the firmware updates happen in Japan and they don't know anything about them. I remember reading somewhere, maybe here, that people on Comcast were having issues so maybe I'll take it to my friend's house and try it on Verizon FIOS. I've already tried it both connected to my router and connected directly to the modem.
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post #14421 of 17928
7/10/12 at 7:03pm
I have AirPlay issues where iTunes doesn't recognize an airplay receiver on the network. Today after trying all the troubleshooting portions, I did have it show up ONCE and tried hitting connect, but it failed due to unknown error. Any tips to get this to a) work, b) work consistently, c) work effortlessly?

Everything til now has been smooth with my 3312 and I thought I was lucky to make it this far...
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post #14422 of 17928
7/10/12 at 7:42pm
I would like more help with external subwoofer please ...

I have a 5.1 bose system with a passive subwoofer.

I now have the 12" subwoofer by Polk Audio - PSW505

I redid audyssey settings but the bass doesn't seem to be NEARLY as loud as reviews make it ... I have adjusted volume and whereas it sounds good, I'm sure I'm not dialed in correctly.

The speakers are set to small, subwoofer set to yes.

Also, the subwoofer has a phase switch as well as a crossover knob ... I'm not sure where these should be, or how I even go about deciding?

Lastly, under bass settings in the receiver settings, should it be LFE/LFE+Main ??? And what should that setting be?

Thanks SO much!!!!
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post #14423 of 17928
7/10/12 at 8:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericuf View Post

I would like more help with external subwoofer please ...
I have a 5.1 bose system with a passive subwoofer.
I now have the 12" subwoofer by Polk Audio - PSW505
I redid audyssey settings but the bass doesn't seem to be NEARLY as loud as reviews make it ... I have adjusted volume and whereas it sounds good, I'm sure I'm not dialed in correctly.
The speakers are set to small, subwoofer set to yes.
Also, the subwoofer has a phase switch as well as a crossover knob ... I'm not sure where these should be, or how I even go about deciding?
Lastly, under bass settings in the receiver settings, should it be LFE/LFE+Main ??? And what should that setting be?
Thanks SO much!!!!

Set the volume of the Polk sub to 9 o'clock.
Set power ON to auto
Turn the low pass knob to max (160) and leave it there
Phase to 0
Coax line IN on sub to sub pre-out on the avr

Your Bose system including it's passive sub should be hooked up normally.

Run Audyssey

When done calibrating, set the front, rear, and center to small.
Set the crossover to 80 in the AVR. (you can play with this but should be good there)
You want just LFE, not LFE+Main...........set it to 120 and leave it there forever.

Use the channel level button on the remote to increase the bass volume to your liking. (Take note of what the sub dB is set at before you make an adjustment. It should be approx in a range of -6dB to +3dB)

What is happening with your particular system is this:

Polk Sub will handle all frequency below 80 Hz
Bose sub will handle frequency 80 to 250 Hz (assuming the Bose internal crossover is 250)
Bose satellites will handle frequencies above 250 Hz (assuming the Bose internal crossover is 250)

You may hear some localization coming from the Bose sub. Probably best to ditch that Bose system and get some adequate speakers.
Edited by Stilly77 - 7/10/12 at 8:43pm
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post #14424 of 17928
7/11/12 at 12:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stilly77 View Post

Set power ON to auto
I ran my first MultEQ calibration today, and used the article linked in Audyssey 101 to set up my sub before I started. I realize that the the information that I'm using is for multiple AVR brands, but there are some discrepancies that I would like to understand. I'll be running the whole thing again tomorrow because of an oversight on my part. smile.gif

I'm using this item to set up my sub before calibration.

f)3. How do I set the controls on my subwoofer before running MultEQ?

4.... you should be looking for a final sub trim somewhere between -3.5dB and +3.5dB. your suggestion is "It should be approx in a range of -6dB to +3dB)"

The final sub trim range that you are suggesting is different than the one suggested in the primer. Beginners are easy to confuse. eek.gif

5.... If MultEQ reports high negative trims - eg -12dB,

Since there is a reference to "high negative trims, I'm taking this advice in the primer to mean anything equal to or more negative than -12db.

8. If your sub has an 'Auto-on' setting on its power control, remember to turn this OFF before running MultEQ. If not, the sub might fail to 'wake up' when it is first pinged and this will throw off the calibration.I turned Auto-On OFF today. You suggestion is to turn "Auto" ON, which again is confusing to a beginner -- namely me. redface.gif

Anything you or anyone else can contribute to clarification for a beginner will be greatly appreciated.
Edited by htwaits - 7/11/12 at 12:58am
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post #14425 of 17928
7/11/12 at 1:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

I ran my first MultEQ calibration today, and used the article linked in Audyssey 101 to set up my sub before I started. I realize that the the information that I'm using is for multiple AVR brands, but there are some discrepancies that I would like to understand. I'll be running the whole thing again tomorrow because of an oversight on my part. smile.gif
I'm using this item to set up my sub before calibration.
f)3. How do I set the controls on my subwoofer before running MultEQ?
4.... you should be looking for a final sub trim somewhere between -3.5dB and +3.5dB. your suggestion is "It should be approx in a range of -6dB to +3dB)"
The final sub trim range that you are suggesting is different than the one suggested in the primer. Beginners are easy to confuse. eek.gif
5.... If MultEQ reports high negative trims - eg -12dB,
Since there is a reference to "high negative trims, I'm taking this advice in the primer to mean anything equal to or more negative than -12db.
8. If your sub has an 'Auto-on' setting on its power control, remember to turn this OFF before running MultEQ. If not, the sub might fail to 'wake up' when it is first pinged and this will throw off the calibration.I turned Auto-On OFF today. You suggestion is to turn "Auto" ON, which again is confusing to a beginner -- namely me. redface.gif
Anything you or anyone else can contribute to clarification for a beginner will be greatly appreciated.

The info provided in the setup guide are general guidelines ...

1. The goal is to ensure the sub trim is no longer pegged at -12db. As long as you're "closer" to 0db than -12db, you're good to go. It doesn't matter if it's -6db or -3db, rather the closer it is 0db just provides for a stronger signal coming from the AVR (ie. to wake up the sub when set to AUTO).
2. High negative trim ==> -10db to -12db.
3. The sub's power switch can generally be set to ON, AUTO, OFF. When running AUTO SETUP you want it set to ON (not AUTO). Once you're done and satisfied with the results, you can set the sub back to AUTO.
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post #14426 of 17928
7/11/12 at 1:48am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bkucera View Post


I'm debating whether or not I want to try again. The Denon support guy was going on about how updating your firmware is like calling the home remodelers out when there's nothing wrong with your house and how the firmware updates happen in Japan and they don't know anything about them. I remember reading somewhere, maybe here, that people on Comcast were having issues so maybe I'll take it to my friend's house and try it on Verizon FIOS. I've already tried it both connected to my router and connected directly to the modem.

The "Denon support guy" is a 3rd party contractor and unfortunately Denon does not provide the firmware update information to them. In fact, one of them apparently told a forum member that they check my post #6 of this thread to learn what the firmware updates include. tongue.gif

While the unit is still under warranty, I would suggest you keep trying to update the firmware, possibly replacing the router if necessary, although a direct connection from the AVR ---> router is always preferred for updates.
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post #14427 of 17928
7/11/12 at 1:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericuf View Post

I would like more help with external subwoofer please ...
I have a 5.1 bose system with a passive subwoofer.
I now have the 12" subwoofer by Polk Audio - PSW505
I redid audyssey settings but the bass doesn't seem to be NEARLY as loud as reviews make it ... I have adjusted volume and whereas it sounds good, I'm sure I'm not dialed in correctly.
The speakers are set to small, subwoofer set to yes.
Also, the subwoofer has a phase switch as well as a crossover knob ... I'm not sure where these should be, or how I even go about deciding?
Lastly, under bass settings in the receiver settings, should it be LFE/LFE+Main ??? And what should that setting be?
Thanks SO much!!!!

Review the information provided in the Audyssey 101/FAQ linked in my sig.
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post #14428 of 17928
7/11/12 at 1:54am
My intention wasn't for confusion. Rather it was advice off the top of my head given to eric.

I think it has been pointed out by the fine caretakers of this thread that as long as you are not sitting on -12dB after calibration, you'll be in good shape. -6.5dB is acceptable. Some people like to get it to 0dB exactly. I'm sitting at -6.5 myself.

12 o'clock volume put me at -11dB.........a rerun at 10 o'clock is giving me -6.5. I don't want to go any lower just to get to 0dB.

I have 2 subs that are set to auto power ON. Audyssey didn't have any problem waking them up, but yeah, I suppose it could happen.

Other than that, probably getting your sub positioned correctly is important. Mine are not, but a compromise had to be made.
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post #14429 of 17928
7/11/12 at 8:02am
I appreciate you taking the time to explain this step by step to me. I will do this when I get home from work today. I'll look forward to posting results. Thanks again!

BTW, what would you recommend for "adequate" speakers? smile.gif I bought those bose about 15 years ago for $2000 -- they are the double cube system. I wouldn't mind upgrading, especially since the Denon can handle a 7.1 system, but I certainly can't spend a ridiculous amount of money.

-Eric
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stilly77 View Post

Set the volume of the Polk sub to 9 o'clock.
Set power ON to auto
Turn the low pass knob to max (160) and leave it there
Phase to 0
Coax line IN on sub to sub pre-out on the avr
Your Bose system including it's passive sub should be hooked up normally.
Run Audyssey
When done calibrating, set the front, rear, and center to small.
Set the crossover to 80 in the AVR. (you can play with this but should be good there)
You want just LFE, not LFE+Main...........set it to 120 and leave it there forever.
Use the channel level button on the remote to increase the bass volume to your liking. (Take note of what the sub dB is set at before you make an adjustment. It should be approx in a range of -6dB to +3dB)
What is happening with your particular system is this:
Polk Sub will handle all frequency below 80 Hz
Bose sub will handle frequency 80 to 250 Hz (assuming the Bose internal crossover is 250)
Bose satellites will handle frequencies above 250 Hz (assuming the Bose internal crossover is 250)
You may hear some localization coming from the Bose sub. Probably best to ditch that Bose system and get some adequate speakers.
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post #14430 of 17928
7/11/12 at 9:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by polypenko

the 3312 cost an add. 144 euro eventhough I have no need yet for a 2nd Hdmi output I wonder
whether for future changes / upgrades it might be worthwhile to go for the 3312.

If you're already wondering, then go ahead and exchange it now and you won't have any "what ifs" later. I opted for the 3312 instead of the 2312 even though I don't use a lot of the features.

Unquote

Decide to stay with the avr2312, in retrospect I don't need the additional features and also read that the avr3312 runs quite
hot during operation.

smile.gif
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