I can certainly attempt to swap the Denon. The Oppo I've had for years.
I'm wondering why the satellite receiver, also connected via hdmi, would sound ok whereas the Oppo unit does not. Wouldn't the data transfer from it be the same as from the Oppo player? If so, I tend to think the Oppo unit might need replacing. If the satellite receiver was unbalanced also, I would suspect the Denon.
Just my analysis -- feel free to correct me.
I would agree, the issue more than likely lies with the Oppo ... the Denon replacement was just another option. What was the result using an optical/digital coax connection from the Oppo?
Reset your FL/FR speakers to SMALL with 80hz crossover setting.[/quote
jdsmoothie,
Thanks. I _had_ done that, and that's how it's set when I ran the setup wizard and the speaker calibration. I found that I needed to go into "Stereo/2ch. direct" and create a custom profile. It had the fronts set to Large. I followed (or so I thought) all the great instructions in the first few posts of this thread. I don't know how or why the bookshelf speakers were "Large" in that menu item. I set them to "Small" in a custom profile and now the sub is getting used.
Although the "Basic" setting should be the same as your main zone speaker setup, making the change in "Custom" mode would resolve the issue as well.
jdsmoothie,
Yeah, that's what I thought, as well. I'm confused about the lack of consistency (if you will) between the Audyssey setup and the "Basic" settings. I think what I'll do next is rerun the setup wizard and see if that ports all the settings over the way I'd expect.
What are your thoughts on doing that? Or, should I just leave it alone now that I've found a way to get it to work?
AFAIK, Macmall only provides for a 90 day warranty whereas other refurb dealers (eg. Accessories4less, Dakmart) provide a full 1 year warranty which can often be doubled to 2 years with some credit card providers (eg. Amex). There is no wireless capability in the XX12 models (to include the 1912) so you must either connect the 1912 directly to the wireless router with a long Cat 5/6 cable or use another wireless router in "bridge" mode connected to the 1912. http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/DENAVR1912/DENON-AVR-1912-7.1ch-Network-A/V-Home-Theater-Receiver-w/Airplay/1.html
Thanks for the reply. I suspected as much about the wireless router. I may be able to relocate my current setup.
On the MacMall link I posted, just above the picture of hte AVR is a Technical Information tab next to Overview that says it has a 1- year warranty. But just in case Im going to call and verify. Thanks for the warning!
I called MacMall and they confirmed their website is incorrect and that only a 90 day warranty applies as they are NOT an "authorized" Denon reseller as noted by the link below.
So as I continue to struggle to set up my 3312 I've come up with another issue besides the main one I have right now (Handshaking). I have a URC MX-880 remote and the MRF-260 base unit. The remote is all ready to go and programmed as I like it but I am having a lot of, what I assume to be, interference issues. For example, to switch sources I have to be in-line of sight of the 3312 to accomplish the source change (there are others like volume up/down must be in-line of sight). Most other functions are working as intended (out of sight with the equipment closet closed).
1. Main question is does anyone know, for a fact, that the 3312 produces a lot of RF interference particularly with URC?
2. The only thing I changed in my set up has been the receiver (from a Yamaha to the 3312...the Yamaha had no such control issues) and added a powerline adapter for ethernet
I've tried moving the MRF-260 around and even taking off the antenna and nothing seems to help.
Is the MRF-260 connected to the rear IR input or do you have a flasher taped over the IR sensor on the front panel? Have you tried each method to see if one works better than the other?
Is the MRF-260 connected to the rear IR input or do you have a flasher taped over the IR sensor on the front panel? Have you tried each method to see if one works better than the other?
Also this thread might prove helpful ... http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/mboard/complete/thread.cgi?4178
So far I have only tested the flasher method since it worked so well with the Yamaha. I just realized that the flasher was slightly off from where the IR input on the front panel is on the 3312. I'll move it over to the correct spot to see if that helps. Ive been all over that remocentral forum looking for solutions (the antenna trick was from there). I'll try to connect to the rear IR input to see if that helps as well (not really sure how to do that just yet)
Hi guys. Not sure if anyone is in same situation but input hopefully positive would be appreciated.
I have a 3805 that I have enjoyed for a long time. I decided to upgrade due to limitations with crossovers, HDMI, and newer codecs. I dont need thhe power of the 3805 as I now drive Klipsch RF-82, RC-62, and RS-42's with it.
I ordered a 1712. The Question is am I going to be getting as good if not better quality sound out of the 1712 with newer processing etc.
Thanks in advance, hoping to hear from people that had a similar unit upgrade
So far I have only tested the flasher method since it worked so well with the Yamaha. I just realized that the flasher was slightly off from where the IR input on the front panel is on the 3312. I'll move it over to the correct spot to see if that helps. Ive been all over that remocentral forum looking for solutions (the antenna trick was from there). I'll try to connect to the rear IR input to see if that helps as well (not really sure how to do that just yet)
The IR sensor location is on the left side of the front panel display as shown by the yellow marker in the image below:
The other method is to insert the 3.5mm IR plug into the Remote IN jack as noted by the yellow marker in the image below:
Why would you need this feature? The Denon remote can control sub volume adjustments if required.
You mean just the subwoofer out level control from the receiver? Theres more control on the remote than just level, like EQing, night mode, and mute and power. Not to mention I prefer adjusting subwoofer power on the subwoofer, not in the receiver.
Because it's the only mode that doesn't add a delay to the signal, which is crucial when I'm using it alongside my active monitors.
So I take it there is no way to push it to all speakers in direct mode then?
It helps if you quote the response you're replying to in order to more easily follow the conversation flow by pressing the "Quote" button below that post.
If you're only passing STEREO audio, why not just use STEREO mode?
yes, the combination of MultEQ XT + Dynamic EQ should yield improved audio quality despite the lesser amps and build quality.
Thanks Bat, I was hoping that the surround processor itself would yield improved sound. I have readd around here somewwhere that if your receiver is more than about three years old that you really should upgrade due to much improved surround processors.
You mean just the subwoofer out level control from the receiver? Theres more control on the remote than just level, like EQing, night mode, and mute and power. Not to mention I prefer adjusting subwoofer power on the subwoofer, not in the receiver.
Here's the thing though ... if you're using Audyssey, you don't want to make "ANY" adjustments on the sub after AUTO SETUP has been run, rather only make adjustments using the AVR or AVR's remote.
yes, the combination of MultEQ XT + Dynamic EQ should yield improved audio quality despite the lesser amps and build quality.
Thanks Bat, I was hoping that the surround processor itself would yield improved sound. I have readd around here somewwhere that if your receiver is more than about three years old that you really should upgrade due to much improved surround processors.
well, what do you mean by "the surround processor"? It's a pretty ambiguous term. Modern receivers definitely have more DSP (digital signal processing) power than older units, which allows them to run more post-processing (Audyssey room correction, dynamic loudness control, etc) on top of the surround sound decoding. So they will sound better because the extra processing horsepower allows them to run newer processing schemes that have a beneficial impact on sound. Plus you can decode newer, higher resolution audio formats found on Blu-rays (like Dolby TrueHD instead of regular Dolby Digital).
but they don't decode the surround sound any "better" than the older unit. If you turned off all that new-fangled stuff, and played a standard Dolby Digital or DTS track on the 3805 vs. a newer model, they would sound essentially the same. So either someone fed you a load of hooey or you just didn't understand precisely what they were trying to say.
The other method is to insert the 3.5mm IR plug into the Remote IN jack as noted by the yellow marker in the image below:
Ok so that is actually pretty easy, the problem is how do I get the IR plug to play nicely with my URC remote and/or base station? Does that just require some sort of programming on the URC end?
Based on the unusually high number of 3312CI Owners having posted as receiving a defective refurb 3312CI (ie. either DOA or shuts down in protection mode) from Accessories4Less, I emailed the AC4L owner and learned that he is addressing the issue with Denon. Until the issue can be resolved, I would suggest paying a little more for a new in box 3312CI rather than a refurb (unless of course you like taking a chance on the lower price). Edited by jdsmoothie - 8/13/12 at 3:14pm
Just tried connecting a second TV to my 3312CI via an HDMI cable to monitor 2 out and unit started turning itself on and off. I shut it down, did a microprocessor reset. Didn't fix it. Talked to Denon support. Their only solution was microprocessor reset. I have since unplugged everything from the unit and tried turning it on with nothing attached. Still the same problem. TV 1 was on and running through AVR when I plugged in second cable to monitor 2 out. Second TV was not on or even plugged in to power when I inserted HDMI cable connected to TV 2 into the AVR. Did I create some kind of issue plugging in a HDMI cable to monitor 2 out while TV 1 and AVR were on? Seems strange. Any suggestions before I send into authorized repair facility? Thanks!
I have been trying for the last couple of days to register my 1612 on Denon's website without much luck. I keep getting error pages. Anyone else having this type of issue?
I'd suggest to keep trying .. but AFAIK there's really no benefit to registering so not that big of a deal if you cannot do it. Other then possibly sending out news of new and upcoming products, they'll likely never contact to you if there are any issues with the AVR and as long as you purchased from an authorized Denon reseller the warranty is in effect regardless of whether you register or not (just keep your dated receipt and original box).
Long time reader, but new member who needs help.
Just tried connecting a second TV to my 3312CI via an HDMI cable to monitor 2 out and unit started turning itself on and off. I shut it down, did a microprocessor reset. Didn't fix it. Talked to Denon support. Their only solution was microprocessor reset. I have since unplugged everything from the unit and tried turning it on with nothing attached. Still the same problem. TV 1 was on and running through AVR when I plugged in second cable to monitor 2 out. Second TV was not on or even plugged in to power when I inserted HDMI cable connected to TV 2 into the AVR. Did I create some kind of issue plugging in a HDMI cable to monitor 2 out while TV 1 and AVR were on? Seems strange. Any suggestions before I send into authorized repair facility? Thanks!
Strange indeed. If the issue exists even when the connection is made with everything powered off, then repair is your next step.
Thanks, JD for your previous answer, even if it wasn't what I had hoped for.
According to the 3312CI instruction manual on page 108, it says:
• If both the Monitor 1 and 2 connectors are connected and “Resolution”
(vpage 93) is set to “Auto”, the signals are output with a resolution
compatible with both TV.
• With “Resolution” (vpage 93) not set to “Auto”, check whether
the TV you are using is compatible with the resolution under “HDMI
Information” – “Monitor 1” and “Monitor 2” (vpage 120).
NOTE
Depending on the monitor you have connected, the display may not
be correct when you set to “Auto (Dual)”. In such a case, set to either
“Monitor 1” or “Monitor 2”.
Does this mean that if two TVs are connected to the AVR, on resolution auto setting, it will pass through the lowest common signal both TVs can process? If both are 1080P, but only one is 3D ready, will it not pass through 3D to the unit that can process it? If that is the case, does the setting "Resolution" not set to auto allow me to create settings for each TV individually?