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post #16201 of 17929
11/21/12 at 1:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lirong View Post

Is there a way to disable it?
I want to use my harmony remote to control volume (rather than hitting an amp button each time) and I just dont want the on screen to come up.
***EDIT***
Found it under GUI Setup

Just shows to go ya smile.gif. It irritates me no end when I CAN'T see the volume control on my display. And I never use the Denon remote but rather a universal remote with the volume control programmed to control the AVR volume.

When I raise or lower the volume I want to see visual confirmation that my command is being accepted and I want to see the level change so that I know where I'm at on the volume scale.

After all, the GUI only appears when you're changing the volume and then disappears within a few seconds; it's not like it's a static display.
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post #16202 of 17929
11/21/12 at 1:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by caloyzki View Post

may i know what is the purpose of the "amp" i press this on my remote and nothing happens. i have 1612.

As the remote can control other devices, it lets the remote know the next command you press (after AMP) is to control the AVR.
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post #16203 of 17929
11/21/12 at 2:20pm
I'm on a shoestring budget, and I've had my eye on a refurbished 1612 for $200, especially given Denon's reliability and sound quality, but Best Buy has the Pioneer VSX-42, new, for $250. At what point does it become a better deal to go the non-Denon route, especially if I'm only really looking in that price range?
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post #16204 of 17929
11/21/12 at 6:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by chi_guy50 View Post

Just shows to go ya smile.gif. It irritates me no end when I CAN'T see the volume control on my display. And I never use the Denon remote but rather a universal remote with the volume control programmed to control the AVR volume.
When I raise or lower the volume I want to see visual confirmation that my command is being accepted and I want to see the level change so that I know where I'm at on the volume scale.
After all, the GUI only appears when you're changing the volume and then disappears within a few seconds; it's not like it's a static display.

Ha ha.

And I find that its soo big and stays on waaay too long. Totally disruptive, especially if you are in the middle of a movie and need to slightly adjust up and down in a scene...
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post #16205 of 17929
11/22/12 at 12:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by lirong View Post

This seems like it should be simple...
Im trying to figure out how to turn off the volume bar, so that it doesnt show up in the middle of a movie every time I adjust the volume.
I still havent found this setting...is it there?

On a 3312, you'll the ability to control the display of the volume bar at SYSTEM SETUP -> OPTION SETUP -> GUI -> Master Volume. Possible settings are Bottom (default), Top, or Off. The information is on page 116 of the manual (page 119 of the PDF). The higher level menu view is on page 85 of the manual (88 of the PDF) .
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post #16206 of 17929
11/22/12 at 6:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by crhinehart View Post

Just got a 1912 from BB (open box), along with a new projector (which is why I was in BB in the first place). The old projector has DVI input and no HDMI, therefore I installed a DVI cable in the wall and ceiling between the AV cabinet and the projector. New projector has HDMI and no DVI. Of course, the new 1912 has HDMI. So to summarize, I have a DVI-to-DVI in-wall cable and a component at each end that uses HDMI. I purchased two new HDMI-to-DVI cables, and now I can't get a stable signal to appear through the projector. The projector senses the input and displays the resolution and frequency, but the picture never displays.
I have placed the receiver near the projector and connected directly to the projector via HDMI cable and it works fine, so it's not a settings issue. I have no choice but to suspect a faulty DVI in-wall cable, which is exactly the worst thing that it could be. I'd prefer that the receiver have a problem! It was an opportunistic buy anyway. I am posting this issue in hopes that someone may have some creative ideas for me to try. I wanted to step down the video output resolution, thinking that either the length or quality/type of DVI cable might not work with 1080p but might be okay with lower resolutions, but I cannot find a place to set the video output resolution.
I can't tear out the wall or ceiling, but am considering chopping the ends off the DVI cable, taping on a 25-foot HDMI in-wall cable and starting to pull and pray. Let me know if there is something else you think I could try.
FYI - the DVI cable is a 30' or 35' DVI-D Dual Link cable. I read on another site that there are "problems using Dual Link cables with DVD players and digital displays." Also, the receiver I am trying to replace doesn't have DVI or HDMI, so I have been using component video between my current receiver and my old projector -- never used the DVI connection.
I hope to hear some wonderful ideas from you guys! I have a sinking feeling...
UPDATE: I did cut the ends off the DVI cable, taped a new 25' Blue Rigger in-wall HDMI cable to one end (Amazon, $14), and started pulling. I had to use a little liquid soap for lubrication, but overall it was really easy. All tested and works, so it looks like I'll be able to keep the 1912 I picked up from BB for $150. It doesn't have the proper remote with it (has the remote for a 1312 (I think) instead -- pretty similar, but no zone 2 controls. I also how have to order new custom faceplates for the ceiling and wall.

My initial reaction to connecting and testing the receiver for the first time is "lack of power". I am going to run through the setup Wizard today (just connected it last night and only tested briefly with no real setup). Maybe things will get better, but I had to turn it up to 75% to get even reasonable volume compared to my old Onkyo. I am a little concerned.
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post #16207 of 17929
11/22/12 at 9:36am
New Denon 1712 owner. I found one at Best Buy that they had in the warehouse and had marked it down to $200 new!

Couldn't refuse.

It replaces my Denon 1709 that was...not great. No HDMI audio and the component switching was 100% busted.

Love this thing so far.

I'm still sitting with my Onkyo 7.1 set up (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882120088&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-NA-_-NA - configured in 5.1 right now), and would love to start upgrading my speakers.

What are some speakers that work well with the 1712? I have my eye on these...

Two of these...
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-TSi500-Floorstanding-Speaker/dp/B0018QPSDY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=254FN0DCS2926&coliid=I127ENXN6GM4NH

A pair of these...
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-TSi100-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00192KF12/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=254FN0DCS2926&coliid=I35QNCBN02QCDC

This guy...
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-Center-Channel-Speaker/dp/B0018QROM2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=254FN0DCS2926&coliid=I1PAYDREWRYY5S

And the sub....
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-10-Inch-Monitor-Subwoofer/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pdT1_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=254FN0DCS2926&coliid=I6IEN0PWRKJFU
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post #16208 of 17929
11/22/12 at 7:34pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by crhinehart View Post

My initial reaction to connecting and testing the receiver for the first time is "lack of power". I am going to run through the setup Wizard today (just connected it last night and only tested briefly with no real setup). Maybe things will get better, but I had to turn it up to 75% to get even reasonable volume compared to my old Onkyo. I am a little concerned.

The number on the volume display has nothing to do with power. It's about gain structures and volume control design. Modern digital receivers use a digital, logarithmic volume display. It's not like "the good old days" with a linear pot volume control where turning it up 1/2 way would blow the roof off.

Run audyssey and enjoy, and don't worry about the number on the display. All that matters is that it can get as loud as you want it to go. And remember to turn off dynamic volume if you are trying to crank it.
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post #16209 of 17929
11/22/12 at 7:39pm
I've encountered an HDMI problem with my AVR-2112CI. I've done some initial searching but found no "real" solution other than unplug and replug everything.

Here are the details:
AVR-2112CI (maybe 6 months old)
DISH SAT -> Receiver -> TV
Panasonic BD35 -> Receiver -> TV

The Panasonic pukes and gives U73 error code (HDMI issue). No video.
DISH will allow audio but no video.

No cables touched or setups changes, the receiver started flaking out today.

I've unplugged and replugged and got TV working for a bit but then it went away. Initially seemed like lose connection.

I'm wondering if this is a HW failure (suspect) or maybe some firmware upgrade will work.

Any ideas or links to potential solutions?

Thanks,
-dan
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post #16210 of 17929
11/23/12 at 8:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ocelittle View Post

New Denon 1712 owner. I found one at Best Buy that they had in the warehouse and had marked it down to $200 new! Couldn't refuse.... would love to start upgrading my speakers. What are some speakers that work well with the 1712? I have my eye on these...

Two of these...
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-TSi500-Floorstanding-Speaker/dp/B0018QPSDY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=254FN0DCS2926&coliid=I127ENXN6GM4NH
A pair of these...
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-TSi100-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00192KF12/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=254FN0DCS2926&coliid=I35QNCBN02QCDC
This guy...
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-Center-Channel-Speaker/dp/B0018QROM2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=254FN0DCS2926&coliid=I1PAYDREWRYY5S
And the sub....
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-10-Inch-Monitor-Subwoofer/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pdT1_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=254FN0DCS2926&coliid=I6IEN0PWRKJFU

Without following all of your links, my general recommendations would be to avoid the lowest end Polk speakers, especially their subs. The Polk 505 is a decent sub currently on sale at Newegg for under $200. Their high end subs (660 etc) are also said to be good. The Tsi line is a step up from their bargain basement Monitors and HTIB's, however if you are SERIOUS about Polk speakers for HT you will eventually end up with their RTI line. Believe me. I have a basement full of Polk Monitors and Tsi's in their original boxes and like-new condition that are no longer in use since moving up to RTI's earlier this year... and it appears to be a common trend for Polkies.

For the best info, check the official "Calling All Polkies" thread here on AVS.
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post #16211 of 17929
11/23/12 at 8:43am
Heat issue with 3312

Short story: I recently add an external amp running off my 3312ci and am surprised how much heat the AVR produces considering it is not driving any speakers. Is there something else I need to do other then moving the speaker wires to the Emo XPA-5 ?? Is there some way to turn off the 3312's internal amplifiers?

Long story... I had been running a Denon 1910 for several years and had it inside an open back A/V cabinet. The AVR barely got warm, however I would always leave the glass front doors open when using it. Several months ago I upgraded to the 3312 and configured it exactly as the 1910, plug for plug, wire per wire, and essentially identical settings. Not surprisingly, the 3312 was a little bit warmer than the 1910 (125wpc vs 90wpc) however still was not uncomfortably warm.

Last weekend I added an external Emotiva XPA-5 to drive the five main channels, but now the 3312 seems to run extremely hot. It was no longer enough to keep the doors open and I had to add a cooling fan to the cabinet. I cannot find any menu settings in the Denon setup menu regarding use of an external amp, nor any special considerations mentioned in the manual.

BTW the Emo amp is outside the A/V cabinet and is not heating the interior. Funny, but the Emo barely gets warm and is driving all the speakers, while the Denon gets red hot and not driving any speakers. Would the 3312 be happier if I added some dummy resistors across the now empty speaker posts? If the Denon is going to drive its internal amps anyway, should I use the Denon in addition to the Emo to bi-amp my speakers, just to keep it cooler?

I had always believed that heat resulted from current running thru a resistive load. In this case there is infinite resistance and would therefore expect current flow to be minimal. Thanks for any insight into this.
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post #16212 of 17929
11/23/12 at 10:31am
I am having some problems with the Zone 2 Function.

I have hooked it up using Analog.

Now Im trying to figure out how to do the following: It seems there are a couple of different scenarios of how youd want to control the two zones. I am totally confused about which of these I can / cannot do, and how:
1. Have both Zones on same input and same volume / volume control (i.e. turning the volume up or down adjusts volume simultaneously on both)
2. Both Zones on same input with independent volume settings and control
3. Each Zone on a different input (and obviously for this one you would want independent volume)

Most of the time I will want #1 - is it possible to just have each Zone stay in synch in terms of volume and adjustment?

If Id like to do #2 - how do I separately adjust the volume for each Zone when using the same input?

#3 seems like you can select different inputs from the remote when you first hit the Zone button.although Im not sure if thats right. Also, once this is done, lets say I now want to leave a CD playing in Zone 2 but want to switch Zone 1 to TV/cable box. How would I do this?

Thanks for guiding me to the answer!
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post #16213 of 17929
11/23/12 at 5:45pm
Thread Starter 
@ Lirong -

Both #2 and #3 are normal Zone 2 function. Source and volume are always independent, but you can still tune both zones to the same source. Your #1 isn't the way zones work (the whole point is independence).

The volume and source control are really easy, you just need to make sure the remote is set for the zone you are trying to control and then change source or the volume. Nothing special needed. The web control and/or smartphone app are even easier.
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post #16214 of 17929
11/24/12 at 1:24am
I've read through Batpig's very helpful FAQ (as well as posts 1-6), but didn't seem to find the topic of two input types connected to the same logical input (e.g. HDMI and composite on CBL/SAT):
For what it's worth, I'm using a Denon AVR-2112CI

Although this also applies to the DVD input with composite/component, I'll focus on the CBL/SAT situation. I have my AT&T U-verse STB plugged in via HDMI on HDMI 3 (CBL/SAT). Video and audio are passed correctly, and everything's great. This evening I dug out my old LaserDisc player (Denon LA-2300), and plugged it into the composite port labeled CBL/SAT, as well as the Monitor Out to the composite port on my display. Audio seems to work correctly, as it's going from LD -> AC-3/RF Demodulator -> Coax on receiver (mapped correctly to CBL/SAT).

Basically what I'm asking is how to handle situations where the same input contains both HDMI and composite/component. In particular, cases where it's HDMI and Composite, and the Monitor Out is being used for composite. My previous Onkyo 607 receiver handled this without issue (or requiring any sort of mode change on the AVR - simply tune to the right input on the display, and it displayed).

Connection diagram:

DVR -> HDMI -> Denon AVR (CBL/SAT on HDMI 3) -> HDMI out -> Panasonic TC-P55ST30
-- Audio and video are displayed and audible with no issues

LD video -> composite -> Denon AVR (CBL/SAT composite terminal) -> Monitor Out (composite terminal) -> Panasonic TC-P55ST30
-- Cannot see any video displayed when tuning to Composite input on display

LD audio -> digital coax -> Kenwood AC-3/RF Demodulator -> digital coax -> Denon AVR (Digital Coax terminal mapped to CBL/SAT)
-- Audio plays back correctly with no issue. Used Star Wars Trilogy SE (Side 4) and the proper AC-3 signal was detected and played when the Denon AVR was tuned to CBL/SAT
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post #16215 of 17929
11/24/12 at 2:15am
Unplug the DVR (HDMI) from the SAT/CBL input and get the LD to work correctly via the composite video input/output as the issue may be with the LD itself.
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post #16216 of 17929
11/24/12 at 2:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by lirong View Post

I am having some problems with the Zone 2 Function.
I have hooked it up using Analog.
Now Im trying to figure out how to do the following: It seems there are a couple of different scenarios of how youd want to control the two zones. I am totally confused about which of these I can / cannot do, and how:
1. Have both Zones on same input and same volume / volume control (i.e. turning the volume up or down adjusts volume simultaneously on both)
2. Both Zones on same input with independent volume settings and control
3. Each Zone on a different input (and obviously for this one you would want independent volume)
Most of the time I will want #1 - is it possible to just have each Zone stay in synch in terms of volume and adjustment?
If Id like to do #2 - how do I separately adjust the volume for each Zone when using the same input?
#3 seems like you can select different inputs from the remote when you first hit the Zone button.although Im not sure if thats right. Also, once this is done, lets say I now want to leave a CD playing in Zone 2 but want to switch Zone 1 to TV/cable box. How would I do this?
Thanks for guiding me to the answer!

You can have EITHER option 1 OR options 2/3 but not both. For option 1 you'll want to change AMP ASSIGN to "Front B".
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post #16217 of 17929
11/24/12 at 2:26am
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobLee View Post

Heat issue with 3312
Short story: I recently add an external amp running off my 3312ci and am surprised how much heat the AVR produces considering it is not driving any speakers. Is there something else I need to do other then moving the speaker wires to the Emo XPA-5 ?? Is there some way to turn off the 3312's internal amplifiers?
Long story... I had been running a Denon 1910 for several years and had it inside an open back A/V cabinet. The AVR barely got warm, however I would always leave the glass front doors open when using it. Several months ago I upgraded to the 3312 and configured it exactly as the 1910, plug for plug, wire per wire, and essentially identical settings. Not surprisingly, the 3312 was a little bit warmer than the 1910 (125wpc vs 90wpc) however still was not uncomfortably warm.
Last weekend I added an external Emotiva XPA-5 to drive the five main channels, but now the 3312 seems to run extremely hot. It was no longer enough to keep the doors open and I had to add a cooling fan to the cabinet. I cannot find any menu settings in the Denon setup menu regarding use of an external amp, nor any special considerations mentioned in the manual.
BTW the Emo amp is outside the A/V cabinet and is not heating the interior. Funny, but the Emo barely gets warm and is driving all the speakers, while the Denon gets red hot and not driving any speakers. Would the 3312 be happier if I added some dummy resistors across the now empty speaker posts? If the Denon is going to drive its internal amps anyway, should I use the Denon in addition to the Emo to bi-amp my speakers, just to keep it cooler?
I had always believed that heat resulted from current running thru a resistive load. In this case there is infinite resistance and would therefore expect current flow to be minimal. Thanks for any insight into this.

The 3312CI's amps will remain ON regardless of whether you're using them or not and there is no way to disable them. Most of the heat from the 3312CI is generated by the video chip on the front left side of the unit. The unit will draw about 85W without a load from the speakers and about 95W-100W at reference volume using the internal amps (ie. not much difference). The 1910 has no video chip so will always run much cooler than the 3312CI. Bi-amping is not likely to resolve your heat issue.
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post #16218 of 17929
11/24/12 at 2:30am
Quote:
Originally Posted by fusecon View Post

I've encountered an HDMI problem with my AVR-2112CI. I've done some initial searching but found no "real" solution other than unplug and replug everything.
Here are the details:
AVR-2112CI (maybe 6 months old)
DISH SAT -> Receiver -> TV
Panasonic BD35 -> Receiver -> TV
The Panasonic pukes and gives U73 error code (HDMI issue). No video.
DISH will allow audio but no video.
No cables touched or setups changes, the receiver started flaking out today.
I've unplugged and replugged and got TV working for a bit but then it went away. Initially seemed like lose connection.
I'm wondering if this is a HW failure (suspect) or maybe some firmware upgrade will work.
Any ideas or links to potential solutions?
Thanks,
-dan

This issue is more likely the result of a recent firmware update to the Dish box. As is often suggested with cable/sat boxes (which are not designed to be connected to an AVR), and in fact often configured by a Dish installer, connect the Dish (HDMI) directly to the TV with Dish (optical) to the AVR.
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post #16219 of 17929
11/24/12 at 2:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ocelittle View Post

I'm still sitting with my Onkyo 7.1 set up (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882120088&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-NA-_-NA - configured in 5.1 right now), and would love to start upgrading my speakers.
What are some speakers that work well with the 1712? I have my eye on these...

You'll be better served posting "speaker" related questions in the Speakers forum.

http://www.avsforum.com/f/89/speakers
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post #16220 of 17929
11/24/12 at 2:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by crhinehart View Post

My initial reaction to connecting and testing the receiver for the first time is "lack of power". I am going to run through the setup Wizard today (just connected it last night and only tested briefly with no real setup). Maybe things will get better, but I had to turn it up to 75% to get even reasonable volume compared to my old Onkyo. I am a little concerned.

Average volume: TV (-35db to -25db); Music/movies (-25db to -15db)
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post #16221 of 17929
11/24/12 at 4:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Most of the heat from the 3312CI is generated by the video chip on the front left side of the unit. The unit will draw about 85W without a load from the speakers and about 95W-100W at reference volume using the internal amps (ie. not much difference). The 1910 has no video chip so will always run much cooler than the 3312CI.

Thank you JD for the helpful information. It just happens that I had mounted the fan to the left side of the AVR, as the power cord connection is there, I figured that side would likely generate the most heat, not knowing about the video chip. The fan seems to do the trick for now. Fortunately I was able to find one that is totally silent. Thanks again.
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post #16222 of 17929
11/24/12 at 6:30am
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

The number on the volume display has nothing to do with power. It's about gain structures and volume control design. Modern digital receivers use a digital, logarithmic volume display. It's not like "the good old days" with a linear pot volume control where turning it up 1/2 way would blow the roof off.
Run audyssey and enjoy, and don't worry about the number on the display. All that matters is that it can get as loud as you want it to go. And remember to turn off dynamic volume if you are trying to crank it.

Good advice (running Audyssey). The problem was that I had not yet connected the sub during my initial listen. I connected the sub, followed the instructions to run Audyssey, and am pleased with the result. Now if the mount for my new projector would arrive I could finally have my theater room put back together!
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post #16223 of 17929
11/24/12 at 6:31am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

You can have EITHER option 1 OR options 2/3 but not both. For option 1 you'll want to change AMP ASSIGN to "Front B".

Yes, but as far as I know the volume controls will remain independent for the separate zones, right? OP apparently wants to be able to raise or lower volume for both zones simultaneously in his option 1.

Also, the inputs will only remain the same as long as zone 2 is set to "Source." I have noticed on my 3311 that, if I happen to change the input for zone 2 (via remote or web controller), I have to remember to return the input to "Source" in order for it to follow the changes in main zone input. I have often wondered, although it may seem counterintuitive, whether there is some way to avoid this snag (e.g., the source select input for zone 2 of "source" would remain as the default regardless of the current selection and would override the current selection (if different) anytime the input were changed in the main zone).
Edited by chi_guy50 - 11/24/12 at 12:04pm
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post #16224 of 17929
11/24/12 at 8:57am
Hi

This is my first post on Recievers and hope this is the right place to post this. I am in the market to buy a low to mid range av recievers and after reading through various post and sites have zeroed in on Denon 2312CI model with Energy 5.1 Classic take speakers. The model is selling for $599 at crutchfield , is it worth to buy at this price or can I expect to see this go down further? ....given that it is a discontinued model.
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post #16225 of 17929
11/24/12 at 2:27pm
I just hooked up a Denon 1712 and all is fine when everything in/out is HDMI but I cannot get component out to work.

II was hoping to use HDMI out to my projector and component out to my tv.

Any hints on how to enable component out? Out of the box it is not working. Tried it on multiple devices - no luck.
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post #16226 of 17929
11/24/12 at 2:30pm
^^^

no can do... no avr will convert a hdmi input to a component output... it's against "the rules"...
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post #16227 of 17929
11/24/12 at 2:41pm
Thanks - I should have known that...

Any way to use both a projector and a tv with the 1712?

in other words dvd > avr > projector or tv

thanks
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post #16228 of 17929
11/24/12 at 2:50pm
^^^

yes, you could use a hdmi splitter... are the video capabilities of both the tv and the pj the same?
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post #16229 of 17929
11/24/12 at 3:01pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

^^^
yes, you could use a hdmi splitter... are the video capabilities of both the tv and the pj the same?

I suspect/hope the answer is 'close enough'

Project = Epson710HD
TV = Hitachi 42HDS69 plasma

I will try an hdmi switch

thanks
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post #16230 of 17929
11/24/12 at 4:08pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chi_guy50 View Post

Yes, but as far as I know the volume controls will remain independent for the separate zones, right? OP apparently wants to be able to raise or lower volume for both zones simultaneously in his option 1.

Right, which is why JD said in order to accomplish #1 he would have to change his configuration to "B" speakers. That's a distinct configuration from Zone 2.
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AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › The **OFFICIAL** Denon AVR-XX12 Model Owner's Thread