Right, which is why JD said in order to accomplish #1 he would have to change his configuration to "B" speakers. That's a distinct configuration from Zone 2.
Sorry, I missed that. That's actually how I had my "quasi-zone 2" set up before I changed my main zone set-up from 5.1 to 7.1, so I should have recognized the solution he was referring to!
^^^
yes, you could use a hdmi splitter... are the video capabilities of both the tv and the pj the same?
I suspect/hope the answer is 'close enough'
Project = Epson710HD
TV = Hitachi 42HDS69 plasma
I will try an hdmi switch
thanks
man, i haven't come across one of those funky hitachi "alis" displays in awhile... iirc, the only "fixed pixel" display that is actually natively interlaced....
the pj will accept up to a 1080p signal (it will always display at 720p, regardless)...
the display will accept up to a 1080i signal (and display at 1080i)...
so... the source connected to the avr and then through a basic hdmi splitter will "see" both, and handshake at a maximum of 1080i...
1) THe manual says not to connect an iPad via USB, but the literature for the receiver says it can play a directly connected iPad. Is it OK to connect an iPad to it?
2) Where do I enter my username and password for Pandora?
I'd like to know the remote code for the 2312ci that will work with the Dish remote control. Teaching the Dish remote was not successful.
I don't want to buy or use a Harmony remote. Most activities use the Dish DVR functions and learning how to do all of those on a Harmony remote will be tedious. Getting the Dish remote to Mute, Volume-up, Volume-down on the 2312ci will cover 90% of my needs.
Yes, but as far as I know the volume controls will remain independent for the separate zones, right? OP apparently wants to be able to raise or lower volume for both zones simultaneously in his option 1.
When using the Zone 2 speakers setup as "Front B", the speakers mirror what is played on the Front A speakers, so volume control would be the same for both Zones in this instance, noting that "Front B" setting does not allow for independent source or volume.
Hi
This is my first post on Recievers and hope this is the right place to post this. I am in the market to buy a low to mid range av recievers and after reading through various post and sites have zeroed in on Denon 2312CI model with Energy 5.1 Classic take speakers. The model is selling for $599 at crutchfield , is it worth to buy at this price or can I expect to see this go down further? ....given that it is a discontinued model.
It could very well go lower. Check your local area Best Buy stores as they will often offer 50-75% off if the units have been laying around too long. Although unless you need a specific feature on the 2312CI not offered on the 2112CI, the 2112CI would be a comparable unit at less cost.
Anyone using the new Dish Hopper DVR?
I'd like to know the remote code for the 2312ci that will work with the Dish remote control. Teaching the Dish remote was not successful.
I don't want to buy or use a Harmony remote. Most activities use the Dish DVR functions and learning how to do all of those on a Harmony remote will be tedious. Getting the Dish remote to Mute, Volume-up, Volume-down on the 2312ci will cover 90% of my needs.
Aloke
I'm answering my own Q here, but I found this info on thesatteliteguys forum.
Try 1360 code for Denon receivers. It worked for me!! Yay!
I just hooked up a Denon 1712 and all is fine when everything in/out is HDMI but I cannot get component out to work.
II was hoping to use HDMI out to my projector and component out to my tv.
Any hints on how to enable component out? Out of the box it is not working. Tried it on multiple devices - no luck.
As Chris notes, not possible with the AVR, rather you'll need to either (1) connect the source to the AVR via component video input, or (2) use a 3rd party HDMI--> component converter.
Hi.
Just got my ave-2312CI! Very cool
Couple of questions.
1) THe manual says not to connect an iPad via USB, but the literature for the receiver says it can play a directly connected iPad. Is it OK to connect an iPad to it?
2) Where do I enter my username and password for Pandora?
Thanks,
Allan
The iPad works on the XX13 models so give it a try on your 2312CI. It will either work or it won't.
I've just gotten a Denon 1612 and I'm having trouble getting the ARC to work with my LG CS570. I have done my best to follow all of the steps in the troubleshooting guide. Hopefully I'm missing something simple, but I can't see what it is.
I have HDMI control on and audio out set to amp. The Simplink control from the TV appears to be working, which is to say that the HT speakers appear in the Simplink menu, the TV volume control changes the volume on the AVR, and turning the TV power off turns off the AVR, but I don't get any sound. The AVR also comes on in TV mode as it should.
The one thing that seems funny to me is in the setup wizard for TV the only option I could select for audio connection was optical cable. Then looking at the Input Assign screen, TV shows "---" under HDMI and "OPT" under Digital. Changing the Digital option to "None" also does not fix the problem.
Is this to get the audio only or audio+video from the iPad to the screen?
Airplay is pretty good for audio-only connection.
Apple sells cables that'll output both via HDMI. It is not cheap, though
Apple tv will let you send audio and video wireless. Very convenient and cool and relatively inexpensive.
I've just gotten a Denon 1612 and I'm having trouble getting the ARC to work with my LG CS570. I have done my best to follow all of the steps in the troubleshooting guide. Hopefully I'm missing something simple, but I can't see what it is.
I have HDMI control on and audio out set to amp. The Simplink control from the TV appears to be working, which is to say that the HT speakers appear in the Simplink menu, the TV volume control changes the volume on the AVR, and turning the TV power off turns off the AVR, but I don't get any sound. The AVR also comes on in TV mode as it should.
The one thing that seems funny to me is in the setup wizard for TV the only option I could select for audio connection was optical cable. Then looking at the Input Assign screen, TV shows "---" under HDMI and "OPT" under Digital. Changing the Digital option to "None" also does not fix the problem.
Any help would certainly be appreciated.
I've also tried each of the available HDMI inputs on the TV with the same outcome. The behavior is also the same whether I am watching the coax TV signal or an HDMI source through the TV. Finally, this is definitely an ARC problem, as everything works normally watching an HDMI source through the AVR.
When using the Zone 2 speakers setup as "Front B", the speakers mirror what is played on the Front A speakers, so volume control would be the same for both Zones in this instance, noting that "Front B" setting does not allow for independent source or volume.
This is helpful and what I was looking for...the only issue is that switching from A to B to A+B is nested all the way in the menus.
Is there an easy way, either on the remote or through a Quick Input setting or something like that, to set whether it splaying A,B or A+B without having to drill all the way down in the menus?
^^^
yes, you could use a hdmi splitter... are the video capabilities of both the tv and the pj the same?
I got a Rocketfish splitter at Best Buy and all works great. Thanks for your help.
It is amazing what you can put together today for cheap money. I have an older humongous Sony 1252 3 tube CRT with a Faraudja LD100 that I bought used 10+ years ago up at my cottage. It literally cost more to have that old system cleaned/focused than it does to buy this new stuff that just works out of the box.
you got that right... for all the griping people do about "they don't build stuff like in the old days", we live in a world today where joe q. public can buy really decent equipment for a very reasonable price...
and that's not even considering the boon that automated room correction routines have been to consumers...
and how internet direct companies have brought a bunch more speaker/subwoofer options to the market...
This is helpful and what I was looking for...the only issue is that switching from A to B to A+B is nested all the way in the menus.
Is there an easy way, either on the remote or through a Quick Input setting or something like that, to set whether it splaying A,B or A+B without having to drill all the way down in the menus?
Thanks!
Not with the stock remote, no, however, you may be able to do it using a Harmony remote with one of the older models that had that capability built in.
I've just gotten a Denon 1612 and I'm having trouble getting the ARC to work with my LG CS570. I have done my best to follow all of the steps in the troubleshooting guide. Hopefully I'm missing something simple, but I can't see what it is.
I have HDMI control on and audio out set to amp. The Simplink control from the TV appears to be working, which is to say that the HT speakers appear in the Simplink menu, the TV volume control changes the volume on the AVR, and turning the TV power off turns off the AVR, but I don't get any sound. The AVR also comes on in TV mode as it should.
The one thing that seems funny to me is in the setup wizard for TV the only option I could select for audio connection was optical cable. Then looking at the Input Assign screen, TV shows "---" under HDMI and "OPT" under Digital. Changing the Digital option to "None" also does not fix the problem.
Any help would certainly be appreciated.
Unfortunately, the ARC feature doesn't work with every device. Try doing the HDMI reset procedure listed in post #3 below and see if that resolves the issue.
Is this to get the audio only or audio+video from the iPad to the screen?
Airplay is pretty good for audio-only connection.
Apple sells cables that'll output both via HDMI. It is not cheap, though
Thanks to all that answered. I just didn't want to blow up my iPad :-)
So, I tried my iPhone and iPad and both worked.
As for AirPlay, that is easy, but it will drain your battery if you use it all day. Edited by AllanMarcus - 11/25/12 at 9:25pm
I failed to say at the time that I'd tried all of this, all without success. I then called Denon, explained to them all the symptoms, and they told me it would have to be taken to a service center. That's fine, but it turns out there is only one left in the Bay Area, and when I called there were two things that came out: first, an exasperated, "Did they give you any clue what I should check?" half-rhetorical question; the second was that, because the only other Denon service center in the Bay Area had closed, his backlog was now standing at a month or better. Further, he was not willing to let me bring it in, have it diagnosed, then take it home while we waited for ordered parts to arrive. That left me with a lot of options: leave it there for a month or better; buy another unit to give me something in the house while I tread water (not financially an option); send it to LA to see if it could be serviced faster there; pound sand (i.e. put up with it). I picked the last option while I pondered the others - I figured there would come a point where the aggravation level would sooner or later decide whether or not I decided to do anything.
The bug is such that it's clear that memory gets scrozzled when the condition arises: IF I could get other things to come up when it got in this weird "busy" state, I would find various other functions either non-op, or would find strange things on the GUI, such as bringing up the AppleTV and having it overlaid with a reduced "image" of the NET/USB screen ghosted on top of the ATV menu. Sometimes, I could get the unit into a mode, but you couldn't adjust volume, settings, etc - could only turn it on and off. Clearly, some wild write took place that would randomly hammer the system in unpredictable ways.
I finally got a clue as to what was happening one time when I watched a BD movie, turned the unit off, and my Harmony remote somehow got out of sync with the system (gee, there's something that happens more than it ought to!). When I turned the system back on to watch the DVR, "something" wanted to fire the BD player back up and switch over that way. Aha! A clue!
Way back when I first got most of the equipment in the house, but before I bought the Denon, I had the DVR and BD cabled directly into the TV, and I'd turned on CEC to try to make a comfortable setup. It didn't work then, and I'd forgotten about it. The setting was still on. Somehow, CEC set on the TV is blowing the 2112's mind. No, that's not a correct setup, but the Denon shouldn't be making a wild write in memory when it happens. There is some bad code somewhere in the firmware, though who's to say where and what triggers it with all the combinations that must exist out there in the world, including bad implementations of CEC on the other component side. I'm going to look for an email address to submit this to Denon so that they can consider it in a future firmware upgrade. Yes, the problem was self-inflicted, but this is the kind of thing from which the software should protect itself.
To quote a local band, "what a long strange trip it's been."
I got my AVR 3312 today and i got it up and running, everything works internet radio, airplay.....exept updating the firmware. So i do have internet on this AVR but im not able of updating the Firmware. Like many before me posted i also dont get past the " please wait....authenticating"
now what i did to solve this:
- connect the AVR to the router while it was on, no update..
- AVR on standby then took the powerplug out the wall, did the same with the router. started up the router after 10 minutes then started up the AVR...no update
- turned off UPnP in my router settings....no update
- got rid of the router and connected the AVR directly to the modem (doesnt have a build in router) stil......no update.
Does someone know what I can do next? Im out of options here. Since its not even a router issue im afraid i can never update this AVR.
Would it hepl to contact Denon? I live in the Netherlands. They dont even have a phonenumber on their duch version website....not even an emailadress. :S
I failed to say at the time that I'd tried all of this, all without success. I then called Denon, explained to them all the symptoms, and they told me it would have to be taken to a service center. That's fine, but it turns out there is only one left in the Bay Area, and when I called there were two things that came out: first, an exasperated, "Did they give you any clue what I should check?" half-rhetorical question; the second was that, because the only other Denon service center in the Bay Area had closed, his backlog was now standing at a month or better. Further, he was not willing to let me bring it in, have it diagnosed, then take it home while we waited for ordered parts to arrive. That left me with a lot of options: leave it there for a month or better; buy another unit to give me something in the house while I tread water (not financially an option); send it to LA to see if it could be serviced faster there; pound sand (i.e. put up with it). I picked the last option while I pondered the others - I figured there would come a point where the aggravation level would sooner or later decide whether or not I decided to do anything.
The bug is such that it's clear that memory gets scrozzled when the condition arises: IF I could get other things to come up when it got in this weird "busy" state, I would find various other functions either non-op, or would find strange things on the GUI, such as bringing up the AppleTV and having it overlaid with a reduced "image" of the NET/USB screen ghosted on top of the ATV menu. Sometimes, I could get the unit into a mode, but you couldn't adjust volume, settings, etc - could only turn it on and off. Clearly, some wild write took place that would randomly hammer the system in unpredictable ways.
I finally got a clue as to what was happening one time when I watched a BD movie, turned the unit off, and my Harmony remote somehow got out of sync with the system (gee, there's something that happens more than it ought to!). When I turned the system back on to watch the DVR, "something" wanted to fire the BD player back up and switch over that way. Aha! A clue!
Way back when I first got most of the equipment in the house, but before I bought the Denon, I had the DVR and BD cabled directly into the TV, and I'd turned on CEC to try to make a comfortable setup. It didn't work then, and I'd forgotten about it. The setting was still on. Somehow, CEC set on the TV is blowing the 2112's mind. No, that's not a correct setup, but the Denon shouldn't be making a wild write in memory when it happens. There is some bad code somewhere in the firmware, though who's to say where and what triggers it with all the combinations that must exist out there in the world, including bad implementations of CEC on the other component side. I'm going to look for an email address to submit this to Denon so that they can consider it in a future firmware upgrade. Yes, the problem was self-inflicted, but this is the kind of thing from which the software should protect itself.
To quote a local band, "what a long strange trip it's been."
Thanks for the great info batpig and other contributors. Came into the thread looking for an answer for my Xbox sound dilemma...
I have a Denon AVR-1312 as my beginner AVR attached to a 5.1 setup, but I also have an original Xbox 360 that only has the component video output option (with the proprietary connector for the Xbox side).
When I bought the Denon, I didn't even think to look at the input options as I had thought components were standard, but didn't turn out to be the case. I have my Xbox hooked up to the TV directly, which has less than stellar sound.