The **OFFICIAL** Denon AVR-XX12 Model Owner's Thread - Page 575

Originally Posted by Douglas Todd 

I generally kill iTunes and then change sources afterward... Never had to do it any other way before.. I am on the latest build of the firmware, so I'm not sure if that changed anything for the worse..


meanwhile, it was late last night, so I didn't test much.. will report back today after getting some testing in post-reset..

Originally Posted by Scurly 

My 3312 trouble shooting says my circuit: After turning on the power, the power indicator is blinking red in intervals of approximately 0.5 seconds. • This unit amplifier circuit has failed. Turn off the power and please contact the DENON service adviser.

I have re-established all speaker connections and still turning off after turning it on.

It is still under warrantee, so what are my options? Send into Denon or what? Parts and labor should be covered right?

Originally Posted by Squirrelly 


Okay, I have checked all connections. All banana plugs are free from each other and there are no wires are touching, no loose strands etc (that I can see)

The AVR is still cutting off at high volumes. The AVR does seem hot, but there is plenty of ventilation behind it. This seems to only happen when played at 65 volume (absolute)

I am about to throw this unit out of the window!!! Any other suggestions?

Originally Posted by Squirrelly 

Okay, I have checked all connections. All banana plugs are free from each other and there are no wires are touching, no loose strands etc (that I can see)

The AVR is still cutting off at high volumes. The AVR does seem hot, but there is plenty of ventilation behind it. This seems to only happen when played at 65 volume (absolute)

I am about to throw this unit out of the window!!! Any other suggestions?

Originally Posted by Selden Ball 

When the unit shuts down, how fast is the standby light blinking?
(I haven't seen any mention of this in your previous posts. Maybe I overlooked it.)

once/two seconds = overheated: your ventilation is inadequate. Get a bigger fan

twice/second = amp, wiring or speaker problems (which has been the assumption so far)

What speakers do you have? What are their exact model numbers?
Some speakers have a reasonable output impedance specification but their woofers have frequency ranges where the impedance is much lower. This can cause problems for the amplifiers in some receivers..

One way help both types of problems is to raise the crossover frequency settings for all of your speakers, redirecting the need for low frequency power to the subwoofer and reducing the amount of power that the receiver needs to provide. (If they're at 80Hz, try 120Hz, for example.) This will reduce the load on the amps and reduce the heat that they generate. Also, make sure that all of the speakers are configured as "Small" in the receiver. "Small" = "enable bass management". "Large" = "disable bass management". Bass management should be enabled for all speakers, since a subwoofer can handle low frequencies much better than even the best floor standing speakers.

Originally Posted by jdsmoothie 

How much clearance is there between the AVR and the shelf above it?

Originally Posted by jdsmoothie 

^^
Note that both Seldon's and my response you quoted is to member Squirrelly rather than to you. In your case the AVR clearly indicates there is amp failure which requires repair.

Originally Posted by Scurly 

The lights are blinking every .5 secs and i speant 1.5 hrs redoing all of the speaker connections. I have JBL L890 and the crossover is set at 80Hz. I've reset the microprocessor and nothing changed. All speakers are set to small. How can I determine if a speaker caused this?

You have me wondering if this could be caused by my speakers (non-compatibility?). I went from B&W 684 as I got an incredible deal from a friend who works for Harman. Thanks for your help.

Originally Posted by Selden Ball 

One way to find out if a specific speaker is responsible would be to disconnect them one at a time at the receiver and see if the symptoms change.
I managed to find a bench test of your speakers at http://www.soundstagemagazine.com/measurements/jbl_l890/

Note that there's a broad dip to the vicinity of 4 ohms between 100 and 200 Hz.
Still, raising the crossovers to 120Hz or even higher might help, at least as a test.

Another thought occurred to me (always a dangerous situation!)
What levels did Audyssey set for your speakers in general? Above 0dB, perhaps?
If you have a large or dead (sound-absorbent) room, so that it had to turn up the sound level in many of the channels in order to get to reference levels at your primary listening position, the combination of the two effects (higher power levels + low impedance) might be the cause of the problem -- the receiver's amps simply don't have the necessary oomph and you need to consider using external amps, at least for the front speakers.

Originally Posted by Scurly 

Good point! My great room is Large with several indentions and "holes". When I reset the microprocessor, it wiped out all settings and I'm not sure of the exact settings.

Second, my set up is 5.1 with front/height (B&W M-1) which precludes me from bi-amping front L/R power hungry L890s. Would a 9.2 system be better fit or add an external Amp? Also, I have 2 subs.

Last, the bench test is a foreign language to me....Sorry. Can tell me what "broad dip to the vicinity of 4 ohms between 100 and 200 Hz. " means? In layman terms. However, aren't my speakers 8 ohms? Or is there a level at which 4 ohms comes into play?

Originally Posted by Audiodork 

While your speaker is rated 8 ohms nominal, it does not mean it is 8 ohms throughout the the speaker's frequency response. As stated the JBL dips down to 4 ohms between 100 and 120hz. Unfortunately, this is a frequency where it is usually best for your speakers to handle it as opposed to the subwoofer. This is due both to anything higher than 80hz your subwoofer will be easier to locate. In theory, at 80hz or below, the subwoofer location should not be localized.



The frequencies of 100-200Hz are considered part of the Bass Range. Above 250Hz to 500Hz is the Lower Midrange,, 500hz to 2kHz is the Midrange proper, and so forth.
Have you checked where Audyssey set your crossover? I am guessing it has the JBL's set to Full Range. Make sure to go into the Manual Speaker Menu and change to crossover to at least 80hz or higher if the AVR is continuing to go into protection.

Originally Posted by MNaudioguy 

I am having trouble knowing if i selected an audyssey curve or not on my 3312. If i go into speaker setup-auto setup-parameter check. I see audyssey and audssey flat under "EQ Check". However, it doesnt seem to allow me to check or select one. it just shows me some graphs. i attempt to hit "enter" on the audyssey selection but it doesnt do anything and there is not a confirmation when i back out of the screen.

I also notice this setting under audio setup-eq customize. However, there is either Audyssey Byp L/R or Audyssey Flat and they are both defaulted to "on". From what I read any audyssey curve on the denon defaults to off so is this the right place to even turn it on? Am I doing something wrong?

Originally Posted by MNaudioguy 

Can someone help me with this? I know I am overlooking something simple

Originally Posted by JD in NJ 

You should look at the post immediately following your question...

Originally Posted by Scurly 


Good point! My great room is Large with several indentions and "holes". When I reset the microprocessor, it wiped out all settings and I'm not sure of the exact settings.

Second, my set up is 5.1 with front/height (B&W M-1) which precludes me from bi-amping front L/R power hungry L890s. Would a 9.2 system be better fit or add an external Amp? Also, I have 2 subs.

Last, the bench test is a foreign language to me....Sorry. Can tell me what "broad dip to the vicinity of 4 ohms between 100 and 200 Hz. " means? In layman terms. However, aren't my speakers 8 ohms? Or is there a level at which 4 ohms comes into play?

Originally Posted by mejinuf 

Hi guys, does anyone have a link for the Denon Avr-1912 bench tests?, thanks.

Originally Posted by larkowski1 

So this afternoon, I was listening to music at very moderate volume (-30) on my 2312 and the 2 front (L and R) speakers cut out accompanied by a relay click. After a few minutes, they come back on again with a click. The display says nothing out of the ordinary, no messages, blinking lights, etc. So far, I've checked the speaker wires (swapped them with the ones from my bedroom setup) and if anything the problem is worse. This evening, it did it again several times on lower volume while watching TV (different input and connection - hdmi from the music this afternoon - optical toslink cable). In 5.1 mode, the center and rears are fine. I've also tried unplugging the unit for a few minutes with no change.

I can swap my speakers (PSB T45s) with my bookshelves from the bedroom (Monitor Audio RS1). I can also do a microprocessor reset. Is there anything else I should be trying or is it time to go receiver shopping again pending those other two things I just mentioned? I bought it refurbished over a year ago, so my warranty is out....

Originally Posted by Selden Ball 

mlk2106

Take a look at page 5 of the 3312's Owner's Manual for the signal flows that are available for component video. The 3312 can translate to HDMI or (standard def video only) to composite video in addition to passing through the component signals. The F727 only outputs standard def video, anyhow.

Take a look at page 11 for an example of using component video and coax digital audio for a DVD player. The connections are no different for a multi-disc changer like the F727.

Use three video coax RCA cables (not audio twisted-pair RCA cables) to connect the component video outputs from the player to one of the sets of component video inputs on the receiver. The DVD player connections (#1) would be the obvious ones to use. (Hopefully you aren't already using the DVD HDMI connection.) Make sure you connect the appropriate output to the appropriate input connection: Y to Y, Pr to Pr and Pb to Pb. The connectors are color coded to help keep them straight. Nothing will break if they're cabled incorrectly, but the on-screen colors will be wrong. Make sure the video switch on the back of the player is in the component video position. (There are only 3 video amps in the player, so you can watch component video or you can watch S-Video + composite. Just for completeness, I connected the S-video and composite video signals, too. Every once in a while I've had something glitch so that switching video signals helped me figure out what was wrong.)

You can use either a video coax RCA cable to connect the player's digital audio coax output to the receiver or you can use an optical connection. (I haven't looked at the back of my 727 for so long that I don't recall which I'm using.) You can plug either into any of the receiver's matching digital inputs, but make a note of what the receiver's input connector's number is -- preferably #1 to avoid confusion. If you don't want to have to change the receiver's default settings, use a coax audio connection instead of optical.

See pages 91 and 92 for how to set the video and audio assignments in the receiver for the player's connections.

I hope these suggestions help a little.

Originally Posted by mlk2106 

I just got a new source that I want to hook up to my 3312. It is an old Pioneer DV-F727 CD/DVD 300 +(1) carousel. Obviously this is an old peice that does not have HDMI capability. I wanted to use component video cables and TOSLINK optical for audio (since it has DTS/Dolby capability). According to the first post the 3312 should be alble to convert component to HDMI without an issue:

a. Component --> HDMI Video Conversion: Only the 1912/1913 and CI models can convert a component video source (eg. Wii) to HDMI. The 1712 does, however, offer a component video out jack so you can pass the component video source input to a non-HDMI TV. Another option is to use a component --> HDMI converter like this one from Monoprice or if you have a Wii you can use the Wii2HDMI.


How do I go about pairing the optical TOSLINK audio to the Pioneer? All of my other components have been HDMI so it was all in one cable so the resulting set up was pretty easy. Thanks.

edit: The Pioneer also has a decent Burr Brown audio DAC (24 bit / 96 kHz) is that any better than the DAC on board the 3312? If so can it be used when I play music from digital sources (i.e. my phone, computer, etc...) There is also a video DAC but I doubt that is an imporvement on what is in the 3312.

Originally Posted by doctorwizz 

Time has come to send in the refurb 3312 for servce. Sending it to the OEM in NJ.

It has the reboot loop problem. After being on for a bit, if you turn it off and back on, it keeps restarting over and over. It used to be ok if I left it off for an hour. Then that was not enough. Had to unplug for an hour. Now that does not work anymore. Tried many processor resets, all wires off, ect.

Purchased the refurb from MacMall which is an authorized Denon dealer according to MM and Denon. So one year warranty for a refurb.

Swapped it with a spare 1912. Almost seems like the 3312 sounded better and had a better picture. I did have the video tweaked on the 3312 just a litte. Not much.

Originally Posted by Alex Simpson 

How do you set up a 1712 to automatically turn on/off with a TV and DirecTV sat receiver? Currently have the 1712 connected to the 'High Current Digital Audio Receiver" switched outlet on my Monster power conditioner if that matters.