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The **OFFICIAL** Denon AVR-XX12 Model Owner's Thread - Page 606

post #18151 of 18969
Quote:
Originally Posted by shokhead View Post

Well I set up the 3312 in about 1/2 and it was easy as it's my 3rd Denon but for the life of me I can not figure out how to set the stations for am and fm. Those must have been like when they build a house and then say now where ever there is room, put the toilet. There is almost nothing in the manual unles I missed it and what I read was zero help. I know it must be easy but I'm just not seeing it.

The instructions provided on pp. 35-37 of the Manual seem fairly straight forward. What is the issue?
post #18152 of 18969
Quote:
Originally Posted by SanchoPanza View Post

Will prolly buy an Onkyo or the replacement for the 4520; I want to be able to watch, say a baseball game & listen to another source at the same time, which is easy with the X4000, but not so easy with the 3311, 3312, or 4520.

Not so difficult if you are able to use another configuration ..... (1) Connect cable/sat box HDMI directly to the TV with optical/digital coax from the box to the AVR or (2) Connect component video/optical from the box to the AVR instead of HDMI or (3) In addition to the HDMI from the box to the AVR, also connect a component video to be selected when using the Video Select feature.
post #18153 of 18969
I'm thinking of playing an 80Hz test tone, manually adjust the subwoofer distance to get the best crossover response by checking on the SPL meter. Can the Denon do this distance adjustment with effect on the fly?
post #18154 of 18969
The AVR can play a 75db test tone manually yes, although for it to make the distance adjustment, you would have to run Audyssey.
post #18155 of 18969
Thread Starter 
Skylines -- if you are talking about the "distance tweak" for improving crossover splice there is a VERY detailed write up of this procedure in the Audyssey FAQ.
post #18156 of 18969
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by SanchoPanza View Post

Will prolly buy an Onkyo or the replacement for the 4520; I want to be able to watch, say a baseball game & listen to another source at the same time, which is easy with the X4000, but not so easy with the 3311, 3312, or 4520.

Not so difficult if you are able to use another configuration ..... (1) Connect cable/sat box HDMI directly to the TV with optical/digital coax from the box to the AVR or (2) Connect component video/optical from the box to the AVR instead of HDMI or (3) In addition to the HDMI from the box to the AVR, also connect a component video to be selected when using the Video Select feature.

Using a 2d cable box now to connect to 2d HDMI on plasma, watching the BRAVES baseball & listening to music, never could get component to work. Will try again.
post #18157 of 18969
If you are using Net/USB as a source for music your only choice is using a composite yellow as there is no Input Assign (for component) in Net/USB . Hook a composite yellow from your Tv box to Sat/Cbl in, on your avr. Then while in Net/USB select Sat/Cable in Video Select. When you want Net/USB screen back select Source in Video Select. The composite yellow will work any source as long as Hdmi and Component are set to none.
Edited by spager - 7/7/13 at 10:05am
post #18158 of 18969
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

The AVR can play a 75db test tone manually yes, although for it to make the distance adjustment, you would have to run Audyssey.
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

Skylines -- if you are talking about the "distance tweak" for improving crossover splice there is a VERY detailed write up of this procedure in the Audyssey FAQ.
Yes, I'm referring to the "distance tweak". I've read the "Audyssey Sub Distance Tweak Procedure - A Step-by-Step Guide" pdf. Does that mean I have to adjust the subwoofer distance by +1 or -1 foot slowly, then run REW sweep, then repeat the whole process? How far/close should I tweak? Is it even logical to go more than +/- 8 feet? The range of adjustment is huge for the Denon 3312.

I believe there is another more common "quickie" method where one only plays the desired XO test tone, then adjust the distance and the highest SPL reading will reflect the correct distance.
I'm referring to THIS.
Quote:
- Run my front speakers on +-75dB with a 80Hz test tone.
- Disable the front speakers and put the subwoofer on a volume that results in +-75dB also with 80Hz test tone.
- After this run both subwoofer and main speakers and adjust the phase rotation button of my subwoofer and find the value on my dB meter that gives me the HIGHEST result.
Step 1&2 (speaker level trim) are done by Audyssey. Now, all I have to do is step 3 using the distance adjustment in the AVR. Is this also the correct adjustment?
post #18159 of 18969
Can someone tell me how to set the crossovers for zone 2 on the 2112CI (if that is even possible)? My zone 1 speakers are all set to small with an 80Hz crossover and I just want to be sure the zone 2 speakers aren't set the same way.
post #18160 of 18969
Thread Starter 
You can't. Zone 2 is a simple stereo (full range 2 channel) output.
post #18161 of 18969
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmac2000 View Post

Can someone tell me how to set the crossovers for zone 2 on the 2112CI (if that is even possible)? My zone 1 speakers are all set to small with an 80Hz crossover and I just want to be sure the zone 2 speakers aren't set the same way.

Although not featured on the 2112CI (and perhaps not a feature you require), note the 2312CI and 3312CI have a Zone 2 HPF setting to attenuate the lower frequencies to protect less capable speakers.
post #18162 of 18969
I just added another speaker for my system. 6.2 now. I know ineed to connect it from my avr the left back surround to get the back center. question is how i can activate it to the avr? When matching movie just to try the decoding by pressig the movie button how come i dont see any dts ex mode? How to activate it? 2112CI avr
Edited by caloyzki - 7/8/13 at 7:28pm
post #18163 of 18969
Thread Starter 
You have to re run Audyssey so the receiver "knows" it's there and can calibrate it with the rest of your speakers.

Once it's reconfigured, you should get more options when you press the MOVIE button. If a movie has EX/ES (6.1) native to the soundtrack it should play automatically.
post #18164 of 18969
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

You have to re run Audyssey so the receiver "knows" it's there and can calibrate it with the rest of your speakers.

Once it's reconfigured, you should get more options when you press the MOVIE button. If a movie has EX/ES (6.1) native to the soundtrack it should play automatically.
Got it. Thanks a lot sir.
post #18165 of 18969
It appears my remote for my 1612 has died (stopped working, broken, etc). The transmit light doesn't light. Tried new batteries etc. Anyone have a similar issue and attempted a repair?
post #18166 of 18969
Are you using rechargeable batteries? If yes, replace with regular batteries. If purchased as a new unit, it should still be under warranty if it comes to repair/replacement, otherwise, a good time to replace it with a universal remote (eg. Harmony) to control all of the devices in your setup.
post #18167 of 18969
FIVE-ALARM MAJOR INEXPLICABLE DISASTER -- PLEASE HELP ASAP!

Sorry for the length, but this is the big one, Elizabeth...

I finally found what I think is the right thread for my AVR-3312CI, and just in time, as I've had some kind of disaster, the source of which I cannot determine. I'm not sure what's happened here, but here's the sequence of events as best I can remember:

After fiddling around last night with my URC-WR7 remote, and getting most of my devices set up by the 3-digit code method, I went to turn the sound down on the AVR-3312's own remote, and the 3312 went all gallywackets, flashing the display screen and power lights red (I'd never seen that before), did it a couple times more, then calmed down to normal function. Any idea what THAT was all about? Whatever the case, everything seemed nominal last night and this evening. I was experimenting with my URC-WR7, trying to see if it would both turn the TV and cable box on, change channels, and adjust the volume, real esoteric stuff which otherwise takes me THREE remotes to accomplish. I'm not sure what button I hit on the URC-WR7, when suddenly the TV turned to hash, and text I'd never seen before showed up in the 3312's display window (like it would read "SAT/CBL" and the sound mode -- all normal stuff -- but it also had little boxes with text I couldn't read and oddball stuff like the current dB output. Going back to the regular Comcast TV and Cable Box remotes didn't help, nor did plugging the HDMI cable from my monitor directly into the HDMI-out on the cable box and manually punching in known good channels, and connecting my Roku 3 directly to the monitor. Nothing but unchanging hash and zero audio. Whenever I'd restart the Viera monitor, I'd get the usual Viera banner at the bottom, but otherwise, nothing but unchanging hash, snow, or whatever you call it.

So I called Denon. We went through about a half-hour's worth of swapping HDMI cables, trying to go through the menus and selections on the Denon remote, all the while praying to the gods of electronics, but never once getting anything on the monitor but hash. Finally, he said "I don't usually recommend doing this, but if you want to go through the process, we can reset everything to factory specs. I was willing to try anything, so that's what we did, ending up at the Set-up Wizard and a monitor still completely hash. BTW, don't know if it's pertinent or not, but every time I restarted the monitor and the Viera banner came up, a little gray box on the right side counted down the three minutes to auto-shutdown.

The Denon rep gave me the joyful boilerplate that even though the 3312 is guaranteed for 3 years, I'd have to get the Denon paperweight to the closest service center -- Bridgeport, CT, only about a 130-mile round-trip from here -- or I could ship it FedEx, but I'd have to eat the FedEx shipping THERE -- the 3312 is nearly 30 pounds -- though Denon would cover its return and all service. I don't know what it would cost me in gas and the shortening of my life through the stress of driving to and from Bridgeport on I-95 as opposed to laying out some loooong green to FedEx for shipping, but neither option is exactly palatable.

The BIG question: is this a problem with the 3312, the Panasonic monitor, the Xfinity Cisco cable box, or some combination of devices? I don't know, and I have no idea how to find out. Never have had a single hiccup from the monitor or the cable box, and nothing from the 3312, except the aforementioned hinky red light show.

Does anyone have a plan or idea for testing these devices individually and/or together?

To say I'm bummed would be the understatement of the century -- I finally had everything set up -- even the Audyssey craziness -- and now, if I'm lucky, I'm back at square one. If I'm not lucky, I'm back at 2 or 3 square ones.

If anyone has any ideas, I'd be most appreciative to entertain any way to get back up and running.

Bummed in CT

Bart Brown

Here's my equipment list:

Denon AVR-3312CI A/V Receiver

Cisco Digital Cable Box Model RNG150N

Roku 3
Model 4200R

Panasonic Viera TV
Model TC-L42E50

Panasonic Blu-Ray Player
Model DMP-BD75

Panasonic All-Region/All-Code DVD Player
Model DVD-S68

Magnavox DVDR and VCR w/Digital Tuner
Model ZV457MG9

Oh, yeah -- an original-model Wii, too (not WiiU)

a pair of all-original and perfect-after-all-these-years 1979 DCM Time Window 1s (not even 1As)

DCM Sub-712 sub (Front firing 8", bottom firing 12" passive radiator, B&K 70w amp)

Yamaha NS-C90 center

and, temporarily, a pair of Pinnacle PN-2 rears

Thanks to many forum members, and Batpig's excellent resource site, I've had many of my questions answered, but my purchase of a URC-WR7 universal remote this weekend has brought up a few new ones, almost all related to my AVR-3312. These questions may sound dunderheaded, but I'm in territory here I really don't know, so please bear with me.

1. I have a 27" iMac, with 6TB of internal and external -- mostly USB-3 -- storage. I have literally hundreds of thousands of mp3s, videos, and photos that I'd like to hear through my system and/or view on my 42" Panasonic Viera TV. My Denon is hardwired (ethernet) to my Apple Airport Airbase Extreme, which is, in turn, hardwired to my iMac. I have a vague idea about AirPlay, which the AVR-3312 seems to support, but does AirPlay mean ONLY audio?

If so, how can I view my other iMac content -- video and images -- coming through the AVR-3312?

2. I bought the URC-WR7 universal remote to replace my ancient-of-days Logitech Harmony 300 (which, sensing it would soon be out of a job, started working after I got the WR7!). Last night, I was able to program, using the 3-digit manufacturers codes, MOST of my peripherals.

Having gotten the remote to do the basic "on/off" with its matched component, do I now have to somehow program the function buttons on the WR7 for it to do things with, say, a DVD player, like Play, FF, FR, Pause, etc.?

3. If you haven't fallen asleep yet, you might notice that I have two Panasonic DVD players:

Panasonic Blu-Ray Player
Model DMP-BD75

Panasonic All-Region/All-Code DVD Player
Model DVD-S68

When I was able to code program these units into the WR7, I discovered a truly goofy phenomenon, which also occurs with the respective remotes that came with the DMP-BD75 and DVD-S68: turn one on, and they BOTH go on, turn one off, and they both go off, hit "Play" and they both play, hit anything, and they both do whatever command you sent. Is there any way around this?

3. One item that would not respond at all to its 3-digit code was my Magnavox ZV457MG9 DVD-R and VCR w/Digital Tuner. The sole purpose of this device is that I have hundreds of VHS tapes with snippets of mostly irreplaceable motorsport content (they're my own content; no piracy issues) that I want to preserve to disc before the video tapes crumble into dust. Plus loading these snippets onto DVDR will allow me to compact the mass and let me throw away an obscenely huge mountain of videotapes.

Am I going to have to sync this Magnavox ZV457MG9 to the WR7 remote by the remotes-nose-to-nose learning system? If that's even possible, am I then going to have to keep the remotes nose to nose and program each button on the WR7 to a function on the Magnavox remote?

A side note that may or may not be of interest: after I coded all the devices I could, I went to turn the sound down on the AVR-3312's remote, and the 3312 went all gallywackets, flashing the display screen and power lights red (I'd never seen that before), did it a couple times more, then calmed down to normal function. Any idea what THAT was all about?

I have to put in a word here for the URC-WR7 remote. At $20 (Amazon), this thing is pretty amazing, with an advertised capability of controlling 7 devices. Knock wood, but this seems to be the bargain of the century.

Any help, advice, whatever greatly appreciated!

Peace

Bart Brown
post #18168 of 18969
Bart as a Comcast customer I'd start be unplugging the cable box from power for 15 minutes, replug in & force it to reboot.
post #18169 of 18969
I also have a 3312 & Panasonic tv
post #18170 of 18969
What is the hinky red light show? Is that the power indicator light flashing on your avr? Maybe for now hook up your cable box to the tv and use the remaining devices to test your set up. I am sure if possible we can help if the avr is not defective. I would use the original remotes for now until you get thing resolved if possible.

In reading your post is it possible that the tv channel changed on your TV causing your tv to go snowy? That would account for the snowy screen.
Edited by spager - 7/10/13 at 7:47pm
post #18171 of 18969
@ bartbrn -

Suggest you just start from scratch by unplugging ALL devices for 15 minutes and then replug in and power back on, first making sure the TV works as expected and then ensuring all devices work when connected individually to the TV. Once it is confirmed all devices are working thru the TV, then try connecting one device up at a time to the 3312CI. IIRC, the Panny 3 minute timer comes up when there is no signal or other action perceived by the TV.

Regarding the "flashing red light" on the 3312CI .... Did the unit shut down in protection mode (see below) or did the power light simply flash red with no shut down in power?

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1465528/the-official-2013-denon-e-series-x-series-avr-model-owners-thread-faq#user_B10

1. When using the on board Airplay feature it will only pass audio. To pass video you will want to either use an Apple TV or connect the iMac directly to the AVR.
2. Not familiar with the URC-WR7, however, does not have the devices pre-programmed into it, then yes, you would have to "learn" the commands from the 3312CI and other devices remotes.
3. Don't know - I'd give Panasonic a call or check on RemoteCentral.com.
4. Yes, as noted in item #2, any device code that is not already pre-loaded into the remote would have to be "learned" button by button for those functions you want to control on the device.
post #18172 of 18969
Quote:
Originally Posted by spager View Post

In reading your post is it possible that the tv channel changed on your TV causing your tv to go snowy? That would account for the snowy screen.

BINGO! If I'd been a lot smarter, I would have called my son-in-law in the first place, and saved myself hours of agony and frustration talking with Denon "tech reps," aka "boilerplate readers": "the tv channel changed on your TV causing your tv to go snowy" is exactly what happened. I can claim the ignorance of the elderly in not knowing that if there was a problem with a digital device -- like everything in my system chain -- I wouldn't have gotten "snowy" on the monitor; as my son-in-law explained, monitor "snow" can only come from an analog signal. If it had been digital. the screen would have just gone dark, period. What happened was that in my block-headedness, I turned on the Panasonic Viera with the URC-WR7 programmable remote, then tried to change channel ON THE MONITOR. BZZZZT! WRONG! You change channel on the cable box, not on the monitor, so all I did was change the INPUT channel on the Viera, which, of course, put it into a no-signal-input state, which I can only conjecture it read in default as a missing analog signal (If anyone has a better explanation of this "analog=snow, digital=dark monitor," please educate me -- I really AM trying to learn a whole new world from the 50 years of analog A/V devices which is all I'm familiar with).

When my son-in-law had me fiddle about with the Denon and Viera remotes, he got me back to the correct input from the Denon to the Viera, and everything was perfectly fine, except for my temper. Though I can claim the ignorance of the terminally old and chronically analog, it's far more difficult to exculpate the smirky, self-satisfied Denon boilerplate-reader -- why, when I described the "snow" on the Viera, and told him about changing the channel in the "TV" mode on the URC-WR7 remote, did HE not twig to the obviousness of the Viera being on a channel that wouldn't/couldn't accept a digital signal?

Well, that's all water over the dam now. Where the Denon rep left me is at the very start of the "Set-up Wizard" process -- a process I've never done before. I have Batpig's fantastic information resource pages, but if anyone has any hot tips about what to do, and what NOT to do, during the setup wizard journey, please let me know. This is a whole new journey for me, and though I'm perfectly willing to learn, my short-term memory is so lousy, I have to take notes all the way, Kinda like Hansel & Gretel leaving a trail of breadcrumbs.

Sorry I wasted everyone's time (especially my own) with this five-alarm head-fire, but the one-hour time difference between Connecticut's Fabulous Vacation Shoreline and Parkville, MO (a suburb of Kansas City, MO), where my son-in-law lives, means I have to call him in the brief period between him getting home from work -- he's the GUI department head at Garmin -- and my daughter trying to get my granddaughter to sleep (my granddaughter Pippa, the love of my life, has Cerebral Palsy and has trouble getting to sleep), means there's a very small window of opportunity of catching him available at night. Had I not immediately freaked out, and waited a couple hours to call my son-in-law, none of this nonsense would have happened, and I wouldn't be standing at the beginning of the long corridor to the hell of set-up (including the Audyssey odyssey).

Thanks for tolerating the rantings of a perpetually confused old man!

Peace

Bart
post #18173 of 18969
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

IIRC, the Panny 3 minute timer comes up when there is no signal or other action perceived by the TV..

Exactly right
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Regarding the "flashing red light" on the 3312CI .... Did the unit shut down in protection mode (see below) or did the power light simply flash red with no shut down in power?

No, it never shut down. The power light -- which was flashing green because I had the mute on -- suddenly turned red, as did the receiver's display window. Lasted maybe 5-10 seconds, then went back to normal. It never powered down.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

1. When using the on board Airplay feature it will only pass audio. To pass video you will want to either use an Apple TV or connect the iMac directly to the AVR.

My iMac is ethernet-connected to my Airport Extreme Airbase combined wi-fi point/ethernet router. In turn, the Airport Extreme Airbase is directly ethernet-connected to both my Denon AVR-3312 and my Roku 3 box.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

2. Not familiar with the URC-WR7, however, does not have the devices pre-programmed into it, then yes, you would have to "learn" the commands from the 3312CI and other devices remotes... as noted in item #2, any device code that is not already pre-loaded into the remote would have to be "learned" button by button for those functions you want to control on the device.

Please help me understand this -- are you saying all the devices for which the URC-WR7 Universal Remote ACCEPTED the 3-digit mfrs codes (everything but the Magnavox ZV457MG9 DVD-R and VCR bi-directional dubber w/Digital Tuner, whose 3-digit code did NOT activate the Magnavox device, period) STILL need to have the individual function buttons on the original devices' remotes mapped to the URC-WR7? If true, there go my Golden Years! I guess what I'm asking is what exactly do you mean by "any device code that is not already pre-loaded into the remote" -- does that include the devices whose 3-digit codes the URC-WR7 accepted?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

4. Yes, as noted in item #2, any device code that is not already pre-loaded into the remote would have to be "learned" button by button for those functions you want to control on the device.

Sorry to be obtuse, but does that include the devices whose 3-digit codes the URC-WR7 accepted?

Thank you all for your patience -- Job would have already hit me over the head with a donkey's jawbone (Samson actually, not Job). I know how difficult it is to explain these problems and explanations through the medium of text, but I'm doing the best I can, and you've all been exceptionally helpful, even in the face of my abysmal cluelessness.

One thing of which I'm truly stoked -- I didn't accept the Denon "support" rep's idea of dragging my 30-pound 3312 to vile Bridgeport until I talked to my son-in-law and checked in here.

Peace

Bart
post #18174 of 18969
If this helps anyone, here are shots of the Denon 3312 display, and the Panasonic monitor, showing the Denon ready for the set-up wizard. I'M not ready -- I have a lot of Batpig's info to get through, as this truly IS the first time I've set up an A/V receiver of this complexity.

Double-click the images for full size:





Again, any tips before starting the Denon set-up wizard would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again for your help!

Peace

Bart
post #18175 of 18969
Searched through the threads and can't find anything related...

Got my 2312 about 45 days ago, open box from Crutchfield. Set it up and everything worked fine for about a month (Crutchfield wipes the sweat from their brow).

It's hooked up to brand new Kef Q300's, Q600C and a few year old Polk PSW10. TV is a 3 year old Panasonic 50" plasma (bottom of the line). The Comcast Cisco cable box and an Xbox 360 are plugged via HDMI into it with one HDMI going to the TV from the unit. Have it plugged into a large surge protector that is probably 5-10 years old. I can get more model info when I get home later if needed.

About 30 days in the power started to cut in and out, from a cold start. It turns on, then 3-5 second later, turns off, then turns right back on, then off, over and over until I manually turn it off. Tried unplugging it and that doesn't fix it. When left for extended periods, like over night or a couple days, it will work fine for a day or two and then this problem starts again.

There are no red lights or error messages. It just fires up, boots up, and then turns off. Over and over.

Does anyone know what the problem might be or have any suggestions? My next move will be to call Denon.
post #18176 of 18969
I suspect the surge protector.
post #18177 of 18969
Quote:
Originally Posted by pcoyle25 View Post

Searched through the threads and can't find anything related...

Got my 2312 about 45 days ago, open box from Crutchfield. Set it up and everything worked fine for about a month (Crutchfield wipes the sweat from their brow).

It's hooked up to brand new Kef Q300's, Q600C and a few year old Polk PSW10. TV is a 3 year old Panasonic 50" plasma (bottom of the line). The Comcast Cisco cable box and an Xbox 360 are plugged via HDMI into it with one HDMI going to the TV from the unit. Have it plugged into a large surge protector that is probably 5-10 years old. I can get more model info when I get home later if needed.

About 30 days in the power started to cut in and out, from a cold start. It turns on, then 3-5 second later, turns off, then turns right back on, then off, over and over until I manually turn it off. Tried unplugging it and that doesn't fix it. When left for extended periods, like over night or a couple days, it will work fine for a day or two and then this problem starts again.

There are no red lights or error messages. It just fires up, boots up, and then turns off. Over and over.

Does anyone know what the problem might be or have any suggestions? My next move will be to call Denon.

This issue has come up a few times on various models, generally requiring repair to resolve it. Check Denon's website for any authorized repair facilities in your local area. Although as SanchoPanza suggests, try removing the surge protector from the configuration first to see if that is indeed the culprit.
post #18178 of 18969
Quote:
Originally Posted by bartbrn View Post

Please help me understand this -- are you saying all the devices for which the URC-WR7 Universal Remote ACCEPTED the 3-digit mfrs codes (everything but the Magnavox ZV457MG9 DVD-R and VCR bi-directional dubber w/Digital Tuner, whose 3-digit code did NOT activate the Magnavox device, period) STILL need to have the individual function buttons on the original devices' remotes mapped to the URC-WR7?

No, just the Magnavox.
post #18179 of 18969
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

No, just the Magnavox.

THAT's a relief!

Follow-up question: I've gotten the Comcast Cisco Cable Box coded into the URC-WR7 remote -- I take it THAT's where I change channels, but where do I change volume?

Bart
post #18180 of 18969
Thread Starter 
If everything is running though the receiver that's where you want to change the volume.
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