The **OFFICIAL** Denon AVR-XX12 Model Owner's Thread - Page 74

Originally Posted by mohanman

Hi guys I'm a new 1912 owner, and never had Denon before. I like my new receiver, previously had the Onkyo 806, but there a few things that bother me:
a) is it normal in a small room to have the absolute volume go up to 60-61 to normal "level". I mean its almost all the way up!
b) also, any way to not have that stupid mute icon show up on my screen? I'm worried that it might burn in on my plasma

Thanks
Mo

Originally Posted by dpmb

I've read the guides, the first 6 posts, etc., and I still have some questions about setting up my sub.

Please pardon my ignorance, I'm on information overload and a total n00b!

I have an HSU STF-2 that I am connecting to my 2112.

I have a Crossover Frequency knob. What should that be dialed in at before I run the set-up?

Also, I believe I read the Volume know should be set at 12-o'clock. Is this correct?

Thanks for your assistance and patience. Hopefully, jds won't be displaying his famous red letter post below this.

Originally Posted by allen_wa

Can someone correct me if I'm wrong, on the 3312 if you input a source via HDMI you must output it thru HDMI, it will not convert from HDMI input to component out? It appears to work that way and on page 5 of the manual that's what the connections flow chart shows.

I've about given up trying to get my 3312 and my Samsung LN46B750 to play nice via HDMI.

Thanks

Originally Posted by agen999

About to install new 3312 in a 7.1 setup. I'd like to connect front speakers to a crown power amp and assign 2 of the avr amps to stereo zone 2 (and still have 7.1). Can this be done?- also, is the signal always present in the pre-outs for the fronts or do I need to enable them. I hate to experiment and cause more harm than good. Any help is appreciated

thanks

Originally Posted by benalexe

I have a question on the remote app. Last night it worked fine I had it all set up.

This morning I went to use it and I got a message connection failed check device?
Any ideas?

Once I turn the AVR on it works fine too.

Originally Posted by benalexe

I have a question on the remote app. Last night it worked fine I had it all set up.

This morning I went to use it and I got a message connection failed check device?
Any ideas?

Once I turn the AVR on it works fine too.

Originally Posted by benalexe

I am glad I am not the only one who thinks the volume level of 60 to be normal is a bit strange. My Sony volume was much more sensative. I feel like this does not have that much power? I can turn it up to 99 and not blow the doors off. Why is this?

Originally Posted by deepstang

Is it possible to deduce what the benchmark numbers will be for the 2112?? Guesses anyone? Also, when PLiiZ is engaged, is that the same power draw as 7 channels (when benchmark tests are done, the 7 channel power split levels are usually depressing)??

I know the 991/3311 had pretty impressive benchmark numbers for 5 channels. I know the 3112 (and maybe the 2312) will be the closest in terms of power.

Originally Posted by jdsmoothie

4. GUI/Menu display: With the exception of the 3312CI (displays GUI/status menu over "any" video output connection), all other XX12 models can ONLY display the GUI/status menu over HDMI, which means if you don't have an HDMI TV you should likely be considering one of last year's XX11 models that CAN display over other than just HDMI.

...

49. HDMI --> Component Video conversion: If you have an older non-HDMI TV, note that there is no HDMI--> Component video down conversion. Either you must upgrade to either the 2312CI or 3312CI, both of which have a componenent video input AND output, or you can use an external device that can do the conversion like this one.

Originally Posted by jdsmoothie

^^
You will be using the preouts so there's nothing to connect to those speaker posts.

Originally Posted by ClintTheGent

You make note that the 2312CI has component (componenent, actually ). Does that mean it still doesn't output the menu and OSD?

Originally Posted by agen999

So if I have a Speaker Selector (Russound ss-4.2) connected to pairs of outdoor, remote room and bedroom speakers, can I use the front speaker posts to drive them?

Originally Posted by jdsmoothie

Technically yes ... however, the volume control may be tricky as you would have to deselect each room anytime you didn't want the main zone volume passing to those speakers, unlike with a Zone 2 connection which you can simply turn the whole Zone ON/OFF.

Originally Posted by kyxapka

Comment about the power, based on my personal experience, since there is a lot of questions related to"volume knob", volume scale. As jds noted not all scales are programmed equal.

I am running Paradigm Reference Studio 60 V5., CC370, PDR12 and four in-ceiling Yamaha IW280.

The drop in power from 3803 to 2112 is noticeable. But that's something I was expecting.
My listening area is in the great room in the house with open floor plan. Day time or in the evening when everyone is in the house I really have to up the volume. Even when there is no one in the house, the ambient noise gives hard time to AVR's 90W. And I live on a quiet cul-de-sac with house backed up to the woods.

My previous Denon was 110 W. vs. 2112 90 W. That's 18% difference. So, as an example, if I had to listen something at -17 on 3803, now I have to crank it up to -13 to hear Dora singing "I'm the Map!" The reason I picked this numbers, just because my kids know that they cannot go any higher than -17 when watching TV. Now they are asking me why it is not loud enough. Listening music using Direct or Pure Direct I have to go all the way up to almost 0, which I rarely approach with 3803. ( Calculation may not be exact, and volume scale maybe a little different from 3803)

However, at night when kids are finally in bed, no one mows their lawn; there is no any type of noise coming from the outside, except for crickets, 90W is plenty. My wife and I would sit to watch the movie and I actually have to monitor volume to make sure that it's not too loud when kids are asleep.
I am thinking that I should have bought 3312 for my set up. It's too late now. So, I'll just wait couple of years till they sort out their CEC issues (yea, it doesn't bother some, but it bothers me) and then get new and improved version with more juice.
In no way I am saying that 90W is not enough. But for people in similar situation, without dedicated listening room in the house with open floor plan, running kids, burking dog on the street and whatever else may make any type of noise during day time, deciding between 2112, 2312 or 3312 I would advice to go with more power if money is not an object.

Talking about the sound quality, I can definitely tell the difference over 3803. I guess because of the Audyssey. I am using F. High. I did not do final set up yet. Just dropped the microphone in several spots to perform ruff calculations. (We are making some changes to the room)
Rock, blues, even classical music puts you in the orchestra pit. The sound separation between channels is much better. I can clearly hear dialog over the center speaker. Surround is not overly loud. Audyssey sets it just right. I was watching F1 this past weekend and on board shots sounded great, with clearly heard commentators over the central speaker. I did not have a chance to test run it with one of my favorite movies "Black Hawk Down". IMHO if you close your eyes while this movie is on and cannot clearly imagine bullets crossing your room over your head, putting you in the middle of the fighting scenes, and you have no chills running down your spine, then you have to re-calibrate your system.

Now I am open to suggestions what movie to watch for DOLBY TrueHD.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by jdsmoothie

47. Surround Speaker Placement/Wire Connections: With a 5.0 or 5.1 setup, the surround speakers are considered "side" surrounds and should be connected to the speaker posts labeled "Surround" and ideally be placed about 2'-3' above seated ear height and within 90-110 degrees from the main listening position (ie. to the "sides" of the main listening position and NOT the rear). When you add a 2nd set of surrounds in a 7.0 or 7.1 setup, or "rear" surrounds, they should be connected to the "Surr Back/Amp Assign" speaker posts and also ideally placed about 2'-3' above seated ear height and about 3' directly behind the main listening position. See the Dolby Digital website here for more information. Note: If you only have a 5.0/5.1 setup and the surround speakers are already wired in the rear, then you must still connect those speakers to the "side" SURROUND speaker posts as this is the proper setup for a 5.0/5.1 setup.

Originally Posted by benalexe


Another related question can you put an input as HDMI and an output as component. EX. Connect the cable box and apple tv to the avr via HDMI. then output to the tv in component. And is this a better option than trying to use a DVI port on my 7 year old Mits 65" rptv with the hdmi / dvi adapter?

Originally Posted by Shanndogg

Tried i/p scaler on/off and game video mode and every combination therein. Same problem. Horrible looking menus, with video conversion off it looks fine. Same thing when switching the Boxee around to different HDMI inputs. I am checking my other inputs with DTV, Xbox, etc. to see if I notice the problem there as well, or if it's only with the Boxee. Any other suggestions/theories?