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The **OFFICIAL** Denon AVR-XX12 Model Owner's Thread - Page 252

post #7531 of 17926
12/31/11 at 12:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jakehansen View Post

The problem I am having is that when I use AirPlay, whether in Stereo, 5CH Stereo, DTS NEO 6, or DTS PLII, my zone 1 and zone 2 fall out of synch by some bad number of milliseconds; and the signal processing keeps the sounds from matching up well. Because it's an open-air, loft-style house, it's really, really bad. I don't even have a sensitive ear and it drives me crazy.

Try changing the Video Mode setting (p. 102) to "GAME" rather than the default of "AUTO."
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post #7532 of 17926
12/31/11 at 12:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ride92 View Post

I was also having a similar problem, I went in and turned the channel level of the subwoofer up a bit and that seemed to help. It's under system setup then speaker setup and then channel Lv.

Now my question with that is, if I change the subwoofer channel for one input does it change for all inputs? The movie expercience was just fine but music thru the ipod or internet radio was lacking the bass I enjoy. audessey had set my sub channel level to -11.6 Db I turned it up to -6.0 Db. I don't want to have to adjust the sub channel level for every different mode I'm listening to. Please help, Thanks

It's actually much easier to change the volume level of a speaker or the sub by simply pressing the "CH Level" button on the remote. However, in your case as your sub was set near the max setting of -11.5db, you would be better served lowering it a bit on the back of the sub and rerunning AUTO SETUP again to at least get it below -10db. Then if you still prefer more bass you can adjust the sub level higher using the remote as I described above.
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post #7533 of 17926
12/31/11 at 1:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

It's actually much easier to change the volume level of a speaker or the sub by simply pressing the "CH Level" button on the remote. However, in your case as your sub was set near the max setting of -11.5db, you would be better served lowering it a bit on the back of the sub and rerunning AUTO SETUP again to at least get it below -10db. Then if you still prefer more bass you can adjust the sub level higher using the remote as I described above.

I looked a the remote and don't see a CH Level button at all!?! I don't know how -11.5 would be set near the max as I could barely hear any bass with it in a music mode. We like to listen to multi-channel stereo so it's equal to all the speakers. When I adjusted the Channel level thru the onscreen menus to -6.0Db the bass was much better. The back of the sub just has the cross-over knob and it is set all the way to 150+ or what ever it is. Should I just run setup again? And will having the CH level adjusted in one input mode effect all the others? Pics of the remote as to where the CH Level buttons are would be nice. Thanks
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post #7534 of 17926
12/31/11 at 1:43pm
Since getting a 3805 I have only purchased Denon amps (receivers). I still use the 3805 (for PC and PS3/360) and have a 3808 in my Cinema Room.

I just picked up a 1912 for the lounge and I'm feeling rather underwhelmed by it. The 2112 isn't available in the UK and the 2312 was a bit more than the budget permitted.

One of the main reasons I went for the 1912 was for the networking (and network control) and Airplay.

Airplay generally works fine and I was experiencing long start-up times before I could use internet radio as it went through a repeated cycle of "connecting, please wait, assigning, please wait", but now after a network reset (as instructed at the top of this thread) it only does this once, but still takes 40+ seconds or more before the receiver is useable. Before anyone asks I do have Network Standby set to ON.

However my major issue is once I power it off using the web GUI, the iPhone app (or a 3rd party app) or through the telnet interface (using PuTTY or a PHP script) the network seems to die for 2 or 3 mins (sometime more) before I can communicate with the 1912 again and power it back on should I need to. And then when it does power up it's another 40+ seconds wait whilst it goes through the "connecting, please wait, assigning, please wait" procedure.

I've tried setting a static IP rather than using DHCP, but it's the same lengthy start-up.

Is this normal? If so it's a joke. No such issues with my 3808 and I can toggle the power over the network as quick as I want to.

Really need some help on this as if this is normal, it will have to go back.

Thanks,

Rob.
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post #7535 of 17926
12/31/11 at 1:56pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ride92 View Post

I looked a the remote and don't see a CH Level button at all!?! I don't know how -11.5 would be set near the max as I could barely hear any bass with it in a music mode. We like to listen to multi-channel stereo so it's equal to all the speakers. When I adjusted the Channel level thru the onscreen menus to -6.0Db the bass was much better. The back of the sub just has the cross-over knob and it is set all the way to 150+ or what ever it is. Should I just run setup again? And will having the CH level adjusted in one input mode effect all the others? Pics of the remote as to where the CH Level buttons are would be nice. Thanks

The "CH Level" button is located directly beneath the Master Volume (V) button. When you run AUTO SETUP, the AVR will calibrate all speakers and the sub to match a 75db test tone, either lowering the speaker/sub volume to a maximum of -12db or raising the speaker/sub volume to a maximum of +12db. A sub reading of -11.5db means your sub is too loud and therefore the AVR is lowering it to match the 75db test tone. If there is no volume/gain knob on the back of your sub, then it is more likely you have it placed in a corner or against a wall where the bass response would be amplified. There's no harm in raising the sub volume after running AUTO SETUP to suit your preference using either the CH Level button or via the AVR's menu and AFAIK, the setting will remain for all modes other than the 2CH STEREO mode.
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post #7536 of 17926
12/31/11 at 2:18pm
Thanks jd.

Other 3312 owners?
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post #7537 of 17926
12/31/11 at 2:56pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

The "CH Level" button is located directly beneath the Master Volume (V) button. When you run AUTO SETUP, the AVR will calibrate all speakers and the sub to match a 75db test tone, either lowering the speaker/sub volume to a maximum of -12db or raising the speaker/sub volume to a maximum of +12db. A sub reading of -11.5db means your sub is too loud and therefore the AVR is lowering it to match the 75db test tone. If there is no volume/gain knob on the back of your sub, then it is more likely you have it placed in a corner or against a wall where the bass response would be amplified. There's no harm in raising the sub volume after running AUTO SETUP to suit your preference using either the CH Level button or via the AVR's menu and AFAIK, the setting will remain for all modes other than the 2CH STEREO mode.

I am blind i guess. I was looking right at the CH Level button and didn't even see it. Thanks for the help I think I got it figured out. Since Auto setup had my ch level turned so far down for the sub what would be a good level to put it at? Should it be close to -12 , 0 or +12 Db? The volume knob on my sub is on the side and it is in the 12 o'clock postion (the middle of the range). Should I just run setup again and see what it says?
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post #7538 of 17926
12/31/11 at 2:57pm
I've been running for a few weeks with a new denon 2112ci and overall it has been great.

About 1-2 times a week I've had an issue with with a green screen condition with my TWC STB. It appears to be some HDMI/HDCP issue with the STB-Denon-HDTV. I've had to pull the power from the STB, TV, or the Denon to fix. When I get the green screen on the STB, I can switch to another source on the Denon (ie, XBOX360 via hdmi) and able to see a pic.

I initially had the STB connected to the Denon via HDMI. After one of the green screen cases I disconnected the STB from the Denon and connected it directly to my TV and was able to see a picture for a little until I saw an error from the TWC STB about HDCP handshake error, HDMI disabled.

So thinking it was a HDMI issue from the STB, I switched to using component hdmi cables from the STB-DENON and HDMI from DENON-TV. That seemed to work OK for a few days but then I just received another green screen (needed to power cycle the STB).

I've also tried swapping out hdmi cables, but honestly I've never seen a "bad" hdmi cable.

Here's my equipment and connections:

SAMSUNG H3270 STB --component-->DENON--hdmi-->SAMSUNG HLR5067 DLP

I also tried

SAMSUNG H3270 STB --hdmi-->DENON--hdmi-->SAMSUNG HLR5067 DLP


Previously I had a 10 year old Onkyo AVR connected to the same TV with hdmi w/o any problems. The only thing new is the Denon 2112ci.


Any ideas?
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post #7539 of 17926
12/31/11 at 3:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryl RSV4 View Post

Hey guys, I'm a newb to the forum. Recently purchased a 5.1 system and I'm hooked...for now.

I did a search with no luck. Are Denons known to run hot? Not warm, borderline hot!

My system consists of-

Samsung PN50A510 50" Plasma
Denon AVR-3312 CI
Focal Chorus 726 V -Fronts (2)
Focal Chorus 714 V -Rears (2)
Focal Chorus CC 700 V - Center
Klipsch RW-10D Sub
Monster XP Speaker Cable 16 g

The slot in the tv stand where the receiver sits is open front and rear and gets pretty good ventilation. Anyone running fans on theirs?

Any advice is much appreciated.

Your speakers are 8ohms and fairly efficient and Denon is not known for heat related issues. You should be fine.
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post #7540 of 17926
12/31/11 at 3:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ride92 View Post

I am blind i guess. I was looking right at the CH Level button and didn't even see it. Thanks for the help I think I got it figured out. Since Auto setup had my ch level turned so far down for the sub what would be a good level to put it at? Should it be close to -12 , 0 or +12 Db? The volume knob on my sub is on the side and it is in the 12 o'clock postion (the middle of the range). Should I just run setup again and see what it says?

Yes I would turn the sub to the 10 o'clock position and rerun audyssey and see what audyssey sets it at. I generally like it to be between -8 to +8 to give me room to adjust to my preference.
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post #7541 of 17926
12/31/11 at 4:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ride92 View Post

I am blind i guess. I was looking right at the CH Level button and didn't even see it. Thanks for the help I think I got it figured out. Since Auto setup had my ch level turned so far down for the sub what would be a good level to put it at? Should it be close to -12 , 0 or +12 Db? The volume knob on my sub is on the side and it is in the 12 o'clock postion (the middle of the range). Should I just run setup again and see what it says?

You want AUTO SETUP to be closer to 0db although anything between 0db and -10db is okay, especially as it seems you want more room to raise the volume louder with the CH Level button. So lower the volume a bit on sub itself and then rerun AUTO SETUP. As far as where to set it after AUTO SETUP, that's personal preference whether you want to raise it a few db or more .. don't focus on the final setting, but rather what sounds good to you.
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post #7542 of 17926
12/31/11 at 4:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickavs View Post

Here's my equipment and connections:

SAMSUNG H3270 STB --component-->DENON--hdmi-->SAMSUNG HLR5067 DLP

I also tried

SAMSUNG H3270 STB --hdmi-->DENON--hdmi-->SAMSUNG HLR5067 DLP


Any ideas?

Based on your description, the fault seems to lie soley with the STB .. perhaps a recent firmware update to it screwed it up. Do you have another STB you can use to test?
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post #7543 of 17926
12/31/11 at 7:26pm
Just purchased my 3212, a Sony top of the line TV, and a B&W surround speaker setup.. I have been playing with it for 4 days now, reading everything i can, and got it configured the best I can. I'm lovin' it all but wife my to which i just outspent on the holiday 10 to 1 says it isn't good enough for what the whole setup cost me. I need some help here.

My wife is an IPad Freak and has several Yoga apps she wants to stream the output to the TV. I figured out how to use airplay to stream iTunes musics to my mains and zone2, (the volume always starts at -6db which blasts my B&W speakers on startup but that is another netusb question). Anyway she want to connect her iPad to do yoga apps to the new TV. Can the 3212 do that, or do i need to buy the Apple TV box?
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post #7544 of 17926
12/31/11 at 7:55pm
Thread Starter 
1 - the volume issue is because the Airplay SOURCE controls the volume, the Denon is just acting as a "passive" throughput for the Airplay stream. So turn down the volume in the source (iTunes, iPad, etc) before you start streaming. Once the stream is initiated they are "connected" and the volume will work at either end.

2 - no, Airplay built-in is audio only. You would need the ATV for Airplay video streaming.
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post #7545 of 17926
12/31/11 at 11:03pm
Would be very grateful if someone with a 1912 could try this and also a 2312 and 3312 so I can determine if it's my 1912, all 1912's or all xx12's that have this fault.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob100 View Post

Since getting a 3805 I have only purchased Denon amps (receivers). I still use the 3805 (for PC and PS3/360) and have a 3808 in my Cinema Room.

I just picked up a 1912 for the lounge and I'm feeling rather underwhelmed by it. The 2112 isn't available in the UK and the 2312 was a bit more than the budget permitted.

One of the main reasons I went for the 1912 was for the networking (and network control) and Airplay.

Airplay generally works fine and I was experiencing long start-up times before I could use internet radio as it went through a repeated cycle of "connecting, please wait, assigning, please wait", but now after a network reset (as instructed at the top of this thread) it only does this once, but still takes 40+ seconds or more before the receiver is useable. Before anyone asks I do have Network Standby set to ON.

However my major issue is once I power it off using the web GUI, the iPhone app (or a 3rd party app) or through the telnet interface (using PuTTY or a PHP script) the network seems to die for 2 or 3 mins (sometime more) before I can communicate with the 1912 again and power it back on should I need to. And then when it does power up it's another 40+ seconds wait whilst it goes through the "connecting, please wait, assigning, please wait" procedure.

I've tried setting a static IP rather than using DHCP, but it's the same lengthy start-up.

Is this normal? If so it's a joke. No such issues with my 3808 and I can toggle the power over the network as quick as I want to.

Really need some help on this as if this is normal, it will have to go back.

Thanks,

Rob.
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post #7546 of 17926
1/1/12 at 4:15am
Hi all

I'm new to this forum and have just purchased the devon avr-1912 and have some questions that I hope you all can help answering,

first problem is that when I'm connecting my samsung bd-6500 to the hdmi input hdmi1(BD) I don't get audio or video on to my Samsung LED tv (ue468005). I have a pc connected to the game1 input and there i works fine, and I tried switching cables.

Second question is how do I get dolby digital / DTS / dolby trueHD audio.
On my receiver it either says NEO6 or multi CH

Third question, when Im on TV source the audio is always on neo6 and I'm not able to switch to other modes.

Hope that some of you can help, many thanks
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post #7547 of 17926
1/1/12 at 9:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by spager View Post

I am not too sure about your networking as I have just hard wired my avr to my modem. You could use the Search this Thread located on the top of this page or any other page, right below the pg. no. and try typing in the word bridge.

1. Correct
2. 2nd botton top left
3. Press Quick Select 2

Thank you!!
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post #7548 of 17926
1/1/12 at 11:54am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

You need to assign the component video input and the optical input to the same source name (eg. GAME1 or GAME2) as the default setting for the component video input is SAT/CBL and the default for the optical input is TV. Refer to p. 97 in your Owner's manual.

Okay....making progress here. I did go to p. 97 in the Owner's manual, and have been reading it and staring at it....then reading it again....but I'm missing something. I now have sound going through the Denon via the optical connection. I went to the Input Assign section of the Menu and for "Game 1" I have HDMI as "None", Digital as "Opt", and under Component "None" (the only option here is RCA?). So the problem is with the picture for the xBox....there is none....just a blue screen. So how do I direct the xBox video (which is connected to the Denon via the component input) to go to the TV via the HDMI out on the Denon? I know this is probably an easy thing for some, but stumped here.
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post #7549 of 17926
1/1/12 at 12:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by clemsound85 View Post

I now have sound going through the Denon via the optical connection. I went to the Input Assign section of the Menu and for "Game 1" I have HDMI as "None", Digital as "Opt", and under Component "None" (the only option here is RCA?). So the problem is with the picture for the xBox....there is none....just a blue screen. So how do I direct the xBox video (which is connected to the Denon via the component input) to go to the TV via the HDMI out on the Denon? I know this is probably an easy thing for some, but stumped here.

Hi clemsound85, Game 1 - HDMI "none" - Digital "OPT" - Component "RCA"
Also make sure the switch on the Xbox 360 cable is set to HD.
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post #7550 of 17926
1/1/12 at 1:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by JChin View Post

Hi clemsound85, Game 1 - HDMI "none" - Digital "OPT" - Component "RCA"
Also make sure the switch on the Xbox 360 cable is set to HD.

Hey thanks....I actually did have Compenent set to RCA, but there must be something I have set wrong on the TV because still getting a blue screen on the TV. I feel I have a good connection for the 3 component connections (red, blue, green) into the Denon from the xBox, and the DVR and BluRay player are working fine through the HDMI out into the TV, so maybe I have something set wrong on the TV? Grrrrrrrrrrr. I'll going into the Mit Forum area and see if anyone has a suggestion in there. If any other suggestions out there, I'd appreciate them.
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post #7551 of 17926
1/1/12 at 1:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by clemsound85 View Post

If any other suggestions out there, I'd appreciate them.

Did you slide a little switch over on your A/V cable to HD? Does it get video if Xbox 360 component cables is connected directly to tv?

Maybe try resetting the Xbox unit itself.
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post #7552 of 17926
1/1/12 at 2:54pm
^^^

If the Xbox has Deep Color mode try switching it to off.
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post #7553 of 17926
1/1/12 at 4:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

^^^

set your speakers to small and the xover to at least 80hz... don't use sub+fronts...

What is the reason not to use sub + fronts?
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post #7554 of 17926
1/1/12 at 4:52pm
^^
Many would say that the LFE+Main setting (otherwise known as "double bass") produces too much bass and not what the mixer intended.
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post #7555 of 17926
1/1/12 at 4:53pm
I understand most people don't come on the forums to praise a product versus troubleshoot but I'd like to get some advice. I've narrowed my purchase down to the 2112ci even though it's overkill for me, I'm a sucker for anything with an iPhone app. However, I see people report A LOT of firmware issues. Do you think I should keep looking for anything AVR?
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post #7556 of 17926
1/1/12 at 5:02pm
^^
Which specific "A LOT of " firmware issues are you referring to?
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post #7557 of 17926
1/1/12 at 5:58pm
Hey guys I finally hooked up the 2112 and my energy classics and it sounds great! But I'm having a problem that when i tried watching Netflix on the ps3 the video quality is terrible! I know the denon doesn't upconvert the video or anything so I don't think it's the receivers fault. And besides the Netflix everything else on the ps3 looks perfect. Any ideas on what it could be? Any specific settings I should try? I already went on the Netflix site and changed the video quality setting to the highest one but it didn't make a difference. The ps3 is connected with hdmi to the receiver and the receiver is connected also hdmi with arc to my sony 55ex620.
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post #7558 of 17926
1/1/12 at 6:01pm
Thread Starter 
This has nothing to do with the receiver or the hdmi cables. It's all about the streaming speed, that's what determines video quality on any streaming service.
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post #7559 of 17926
1/1/12 at 6:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

This has nothing to do with the receiver or the hdmi cables. It's all about the streaming speed, that's what determines video quality on any streaming service.

damn... you beat me to it. That one was EASY to diagnose. So easy even I could get it
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post #7560 of 17926
1/1/12 at 6:08pm
Ok I'm gonna try a hard wire instead of the wireless and see. Thanks guys!
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AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › The **OFFICIAL** Denon AVR-XX12 Model Owner's Thread