The **OFFICIAL** Denon AVR-XX12 Model Owner's Thread - Page 277

Thanks for advice to give the wired approach a go. I think this might really be worth it for upgrades as I've heard about problems freezing during those. I'll let you know how it works out - now to figure out why my speed is so slow even wired...

Hold the phone.

I am really having difficulty making the decision on whether I should spend the extra $100 and go from my 1912 (which I have not taken out of the box) to a 2112.

According to this post:

Stepping up from the 1912 to the 2112ci adds:
* MultEQ XT instead of regular MultEQ
* An extra year of warranty (CI models get 3 years warranty instead of 2)
* Extra functionality in the web control function, adding a "Setup Menu" section in which you can:
--- SAVE and LOAD configurations to a networked computer
--- Access the full GUI on your web browser, including the "Audio Adjust", "System Setup", and "Information" menus
* The "CI" features for superior control and integration:
--- Zone 2 pre-outs (so you don't have to sacrifice 7.1 to add multizone speakers)
--- RS-232 port for integrating with serial control systems
--- Room-to-room IR jack for hard-wiring a remote control (e.g. from another room or to hide gear in a closet)


BUT, according to Best Buy's website I am somehow losing 245 watts! The 1912 has 875 watts and the 2112 has only 630 watts. Is it worth taking the watts hit?

(I don't even know what

^^^

Please re-read posts 1-3 in this thread, paying particular attention to what they have to say about power ratings.

Take a closer look at the specs ... both AVRs are rated at 90W into 8Ω and 125W into 6Ω. Best Buy wants to sell more 1912's so they list the 6Ω rating for the 1912 and the 8Ω rating for the 2112CI. Bottom line, they have the same amps.

I think Best Buy also lists the 2112 as a 7.2 receiver.

How worried would you be? My new 2312 just arrived from shipper in somewhat crumpled box to point that, once opened, I found the Styrofoam holding the receiver cracked and broken in several places. All I can think about is the viral video with the tv being thrown over the gate! In any case, called shipper and they say I have 30 days to return but they do not have any more in stock to replace at this point. Besides obvious of plugging it in, any advice on newbie tests to explore to see if shaken receiver syndrome is going to cause me headaches? Any reason to worry longer term?

Just sold my Marantz SR5003 and was looking at either the Denon AVR2312CI or Denon AVR3312CI. Any suggestions?

Speakers are Polk
F - Monitor 70
C - CS2
S - TC80i
Sub - eD A3-300

ok just refreshed my steup. set my speakers to small. what should i do the subwoofer mode? lfe or lfe+main?

LFE, unless you want doubled bass. (bad)

Just got home with my new 2112CI. Unfortunately, Fedex didn't leave my new speakers (DefTech Pro1000/2000) today - they'll try again tomorrow; hopefully, we'll be home when they come. So for now, I have an awesome receiver and a sub (SVS SB12). Oh, and an amazing new TV (Sammy D8000 LED). Can't hardly wait to get this system rocking and rolling.

I'm guessing you're always going to be wondering when/if the AVR's integrity is going to break down at some point. If that's true, don't bother unboxing it and send it back. You can always order from another authorized reseller.

As poorly trained as the associates often are on the AVRs, it shouldn't surprise anyone that the webmaster also fails to confirm what is printed. Although keep in mind that the .2 on the 2312CI and 3312CI is nothing more than an internal "Y" splitter which can be easily replicated with a $3 RCA "Y" splitter cable on the 2112CI and lower.

If you don't expect to add an external amp (ie. not in a large room) or want DSX (front wide), or need a 3rd independent zone, either the 2112CI or 2312CI should serve you well. Determine which features you need and select the model that meets those needs.

Not really... It may not matter, but LFE was still the right answer, considering there's pretty much NO situation where LFE+Main is the right answer.

Hi all, great forum it has helped me understand very quickly that I'm not alone in my frustrations with my new 2112ci and Denon. It really is a shame that Denon does nothing to broadly address the issue with the hit or miss problems with the NET/USB GUI. It will appear fine for me after a SOFT RESET, or a MICROPROCESSOR RESET, or a NETWORK RESET but then within a day or so I am back to the "no signal" bird floating around on my LG Plasma (i swear it actually laughs at me sometimes as i nearly put my fist through the wall in frustration). Its so pitiful its almost comical how lackluster Denon is in their online/email responses to my problem and my calls to their customer lack of service department during their not so consumer friendly hours have given me a new appreciation for the word arrogant. I suppose after enough back and forth they'll send me to a repair center 150miles away in either KC or StL (I'm just a country boy from Central MO) unless Denon pays for back and forth shipping and packaging to service centers? After much more frustration and having to disconnect everything and be without the avr for days? weeks? months? I'm sure I'll someday end up with a fix or a new unit that may or may not work. Can't return it--I'm past my 30 days. And I like my HDMI Control ON--that's one reason I bought the thing.

Anyone know if this something that has the potential to be fixed with one of their firmware updates?

Anybody think that assigning a static ip rather than the default dynamic might help the situation? My theory was that maybe NET/USB GUI gets screwed up at some point during the dynamic ip address renew process?

Long story short, buddy bought my 3312CI that I was not very fond of. Messing around with his setup I found a nice little tip that may help all those people suffering from anemic or weird bass output after Audyssey MultEQ. Keep in mind, YMMV

Turn down your subwoofer output so that the level after doing MultiEQ reads 0 db or above then run Audyssey again at these lower output levels. After this, turn the gain knob on your sub up to the level you want.

Merely cutting sub volume until it is above -12db is not enough; I don't know the particulars of what issue there is in the software that causes weird response issues if the sub is at a higher level than Audyssey deems necessary, but my best GUESS is that having the sub at a higher level causes the room gain to make the lower bass frequencies stand out a bit more so MultEQ cuts them. By having your sub at a lower level during Autosetup where it adjusts overall sub gain to -0db or higher, these low bass room gains are less pronounced & the audible 60-80 hz band is more 'loud' to the microphone so it cuts them instead. OR the lower amplitude output to the sub is small enough in signal to where it doesn't excite or move the sub cone enough to get a very large vented box to excite the port effectively. Either way, Audyssey seams to assume that if you have a sub large enough to make actual subwoofer bass audible to its microphone during auto-setup, it needs to be cut.

This is all speculation as I don't know how the software is written, but doing the above made a night & day difference in bass response in my buddy's living room. When I initially had the sub to be just above -12db after Auto-setup, the upper bass regions were annoyingly loud with pathetic low bass & this was in a system with a 15" 'sonosub' tuned to 20 hz for subwoofin' with a box specifically sized large enough to create a slight dip in the 50hz & up region to reduce the 'room boom' in normal sized living rooms. This subwoofer literally separated drywall from studs & knocked over beer pong cups in the kitchen in my old house without any EQ before I sold it 6 years ago; the bass output after this initial adjustment was that of a tiny cheap store bought sealed boxed sub. It was truly anemic sounding & boomed in all the wrong places. After turning down the sub amp's gain to minimum, the level audyssey adjusted overall gain was +1.5db. After auto-setup, I boosted the gain on the sub amp to taste & adjusted the receiver's sub x-over setting to 80hz; we were rewarded with a full rounded bass output that had the proper cut in the annoying upper bass region due to 'room boom' with a VERY nice emphasis in the 40hz & down region as I intended the sub to perform when I built it.

Not sure why you would need to run AUTO SETUP again after the sub trim is already set to 0db? Also, raising the sub gain knob is no different then simply raising the sub volume using the CH Level button on the remote (the suggested procedure) and much easier to track.

I have returned three 1912s and now I have A 2112 ci and all four units have done exactly the same thing. sometimes NET/USB has a picture and some times it doesn't. I can bring it back up by turning off HDMI control, powering off the avr and then back on again. I cant believe all four units are defective. Im starting to think its just the way they are. it wouldnt be so bad if it didnt take out component video with it. I have a static ip assigned to the avr and it did not help

I'm at a loss here I have no idea what to do? Clearly the major problem is that Denon really does nothing to solve the problem...they may do repairs or even replace units but they seem to be merely sweeping the dirt under the rug on this one. If that's just the way they are then chalk this one up as a $500 waste of money because one of these next few times I spontaneously lose GUI on the NET/USB source I'm going to rip this box of trash out of my A/V Closet and launch the thing down my driveway.....until that happens though I'll hold out hope that Denon does something about this...and I'm begging for anyone with any more info on this to keep sharing on the forum...there's just something therapeutic about talking about this Denon disgrace with others that makes it a little more tolerable

I have the same MoCA adapter with a Netgear Gigabit switch running to my 2112. Works excellent.

To. SCCRMO. REF: Internet radio, pandora Internet radio display (net/USB)

Here is my story sad but true. I also purchased 2112ci and actually had a friend of mine do the same. We all have the same problem with display. So after numerous calls to Denon I got no where they actually were surprised that anything was wrong. I don't believe that. Worst customer service responses I have ever heard. Anyway after reading this forums I decided to take both units back to a Denon authorized repair center 15 miles away. Both units went in on 12/28 and they said they knew the exact problem. Defective HDMI card. They replaced the cards in both units and we picked up the units on 1/20. Surprise the units are still not working properly. HDMI off as you stated can resolve it so far who knows? tomorrow when I turn the unit on it may be a different story. Denon has gotta know this is a problem and they are not responding. I can't return the unit. I can't afford to buy I new one. So I beg everyone who has this unit to report it to Denon and maybe they will come up with fix. Another option is if all of us could meet in front of Denon headquarters we could toss all the unit through there front windows.

Question about the line of sight on the receiver

I'm going to have to shuffle my equipment around so that it sits 90 degrees to where the sitting positions are. Bit of a pain to test at the mo with everything being where it is, but does anyone else have theres not facing them. If so how good is the control/receiver at responding at these odd posistions?

Ok, Best buy is selling the 2112 on sale for the same price that I paid for the 1912! IS there ANY reason why I would not want to exchange the 1912 for the 2112? It is still in the box and new.

I stated my concern earlier that, according to Best Buy's website, I am somehow losing 245 watts by switching to the 2112! The 1912 has 875 watts and the 2112 has only 630 watts. Is it worth taking the watts hit?

Any advice would be appreciated!

^^^

your concern was responded to by the two most knowledgeable denon guys around the first time you posted it....

besides that... it would be a pointless worry anyway...

I have the 2112ci and can still return for the next few weeks. My Net video display has worked sporadically like others. I have also had some other concerns with the AVR 2112ci.

What receiver would you replace it with? I need two zones, Airplay, and would love a phono output.

Marantz seems to have something for about $1100...would love to spend under 700 though.

Thanks.

I am having no luck getting my Fios remote to work on my 1612, the only code I've found is from their cut sheet, 092, which doesn't work.

I don't care about power, I just want the vol +/- and mute buttons on the Fios remote to work on the receiver.

Any help?

Thanks.

If this falls into the realm of "not possible", any recommendations on a universal remote? I'd like one that will handle both the AVR and Panasonic 110 BD.

Yes, But no one has definitively instructed me that there are NO negatives to getting the 2112 over the 1912. Someone, please tell me that it is a good move with NO down sides.

read post 2 again... it's made VERY clear there why you shouldn't be agonizing so much over this decision...

geez...