So far so good with my 2112ci. However, I do have one concern:
When I hook my xbox up using component (no hdmi) - the quality is significantly worse than when its plugged into the TV. Not only are the colors a little off but everything is very pixelated. It's assigned to game 1 and I changed the video from auto to game. Still looks like crap.
My TV is a Samsung LN46A750 if that helps out at all. Please let me know if there is any hope for improving the video quality.
Let's clarify a few things first ... (1) only audio from an HDMI connected device will pass through to the TV when the AVR is in Standby
I may have missed context on this, but are you saying that video is not passed through to the TV in standby pass-through?
I need a new AVR to resolve some lip sync issues, since my old AVR doesn't do any video switching. If I am going to use the new one to do all the switching, I'd like to find one with a full pass-through so the kids can watch TV from the STB without turning on the AV system.
Quote:
(2) only one HDMI source can be selected to pass through to the TV when the AVR is in Standby (as determined by the Standby Source being set to either a specific HDMI input or the "LAST" setting).
I think this will work fine for my use. It sounds like the Yamaha AVR's allow you to switch via remote in standby mode which sounds nice, but probabaly not all that helpful for my situation.
If any 2112 owners also considered the onkyo 709, marantz 1602 or yamaha 671, I'd appreciate comments here-
^^
Both audio and video will pass ... my emphasis was on the fact that only "HDMI" connected sources will pass through the AVR while in standby (edited previous post to clarify). The OPs post was unclear and made it sound like he was trying to pass audio from one source while the AVR was in standby and then expected to be able to select another device and have it pass through as well.
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You would likely get at least $300 for it, so a loss of $100, or you could relegate it to another part of the house, or perhaps pass it on to a relative. For maybe $50 more than what you paid for the 571, you can get the Denon 2112CI by "calling" Electronics Expo or AV Science.
I just listed it
One question though on the 2112 , Does it have or is there a fix for the Star Wars Blu Ray Bomb for this model?
^^
Both audio and video will pass ... my emphasis was on the fact that only "HDMI" connected sources will pass through the AVR while in standby (edited previous post to clarify). The OPs post was unclear and made it sound like he was trying to pass audio from one source while the AVR was in standby and then expected to be able to select another device and have it pass through as well.
Ah gotcha, I figured it was something like that but I hadn't had enough caffeine yet for my brain to sort it all out.
Sounds like the 2112 will do everything I need and more. Now just gotta make a choice, thanks for the reply!
- I have time warner cable and some commercials are in PL-II. It is consistent that those will cut audio out one second out of every 5 seconds. Other commercials don't have this issue.
- setting to daytime dyn volume and turning up my center sp volume (for soft dialogue) still seems to have loud commercials. Any other recommendations or just play around with it some more?
- I have a 10 inch sub in the far left corner right up against the wall ... Do I need to move it further from the wall? Is that possibly why audyssey set it to -11db?
^^
1. Commercials aren't in PL II, rather they (and SD channels and some HD channels) are either broadcast in PCM 2.0 or DD 2.0 which then gets simulated to 5.1 by DD PLII via the AVR. The audio drops are more likely an issue with the particular channel broadcasting the audio track, although you may want to try connecting an optical cable assigned to the same source name and setting the
setting to "Digital" to see if that resolves the issue.
2. "DAY" is the weakest Dyn VOL setting so try using "EVENING" instead.
3. A setting of -11db means your sub volume is set too loud. Did you start with the volume at mid level (12 o'clock) as suggested in the manual? Placing the sub in the corner will amplify the bass signal, so either move the sub to another location or simply reduce the volume/gain knob on the back of the sub a notch or two and rerun AUTO SETUP to lower the sub trim closer to 0db (ie. away from -11db).
^^
You would likely get at least $300 for it, so a loss of $100, or you could relegate it to another part of the house, or perhaps pass it on to a relative. For maybe $50 more than what you paid for the 571, you can get the Denon 2112CI by "calling" Electronics Expo or AV Science.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie
^^
It doesn't have that issue which was only on the older models.
Good, thats the reason I had to get another in the first place. Had the 2309CI and SW would not play with out all the poping,banging and static issue's.
Is it worth $70 more for a an AVR3312CI vs AVR3311CI?
I have a 4311CI and love it but have been having a touch time getting the 3312CI for the price i want to pay and the 3311 is available for $70 less. Im not paying more than $ 200 for either with credits and promos. Just curious its for the man cave.
Please do not use the airplay upgrade as a reason. I have considered this but I just want to know hardware wise....is one a clear winner.
Im assuming the gui is the same as the 4311ci i have?
^^
Both audio and video will pass ... my emphasis was on the fact that only "HDMI" connected sources will pass through the AVR while in standby (edited previous post to clarify). The OPs post was unclear and made it sound like he was trying to pass audio from one source while the AVR was in standby and then expected to be able to select another device and have it pass through as well.
I only have video pass thru. I think my problem is the WD TV streamer is passing dts and DD5.1 signal to my 2-3 yrs old Sharp Aquos TV that cannot produce stereo sound from them. It displays something like 'an incompatible audio signal detected...'
Is it worth $70 more for a an AVR3312CI vs AVR3311CI?
I have a 4311CI and love it but have been having a touch time getting the 3312CI for the price i want to pay and the 3311 is available for $70 less. Im not paying more than $ 200 for either with credits and promos. Just curious its for the man cave.
Please do not use the airplay upgrade as a reason. I have considered this but I just want to know hardware wise....is one a clear winner.
Im assuming the gui is the same as the 4311ci i have?
I kinda like the look on the 3311ci as well.
Pretty much the same with the main differences being the advanced gui which will overlay with 3D video.
BTW Denon has offered the Airplay upgrade for free on the 3311.
Didn't see this question addressed in previous posts:
Regarding the AVR-2112CI, are the Zone 2 pre-outs active even when sur/back amp assigment selected is Zone 2? I currently use the zone 2 speaker output for playback through speakers in a 2nd room and would like to also use the line level output routed to a separate system in a 3rd. I understand that if both are active they would play the same single source.
^^
1. Commercials aren't in PL II, rather they (and SD channels and some HD channels) are either broadcast in PCM 2.0 or DD 2.0 which then gets simulated to 5.1 by DD PLII via the AVR. The audio drops are more likely an issue with the particular channel broadcasting the audio track, although you may want to try connecting an optical cable assigned to the same source name and setting the setting to "Digital" to see if that resolves the issue.
2. "DAY" is the weakest Dyn VOL setting so try using "EVENING" instead.
3. A setting of -11db means your sub volume is set too loud. Did you start with the volume at mid level (12 o'clock) as suggested in the manual? Placing the sub in the corner will amplify the bass signal, so either move the sub to another location or simply reduce the volume/gain knob on the back of the sub a notch or two and rerun AUTO SETUP to lower the sub trim closer to 0db (ie. away from -11db).
My cable box has an hdmi output connection so although it may not be 1080p (im not sure if it is on hd channels or 720 p) I enjoy using the hdmi only and not getting optical in the mix. My onkyo using optical never did this though. Isnt hdmi > optical? I might try it out.
Yes sub is at 12. I followed the guide of setting the phase , lpf to max. But I did just read to volume even lower . What's interesting is when running audyssey I can barely hear the sub doing its thing but I guess the Mic can.
One more question, when pressing the movie or music button it can cycle through stereo and direct, etc.
I'm using movie for cable tv and leave it on whatever setting is first (depends on the signal). Is this okay?
I know this has been hashed over a ton, but I am still confused and I have read post #4. I just received a AVR-3312 to replace a 3808 so I can get 1.4a switching and I have not hooked it up yet as I also have a new Pioneer vsx-1121-k.
My question, does the 3312 degrade all HDMI signals from all sources being passed through it with the video converter on? I am putting this in a dedicated theater room recently upgraded to 3d.
2. A 2112CI owner has noted that HDMI Standby pass through defaults to TV when HDMI-CEC on the TV is set to ON (tested by noting the pass through feature doesn't work unless HDMI-CEC on the TV is set to OFF). This result is to be expected when the AVR is first tuned ON, however, may or may not be designed to do the same thing when in Standby. This issue may affect Samsung (Anynet+) TV's only as a Panasonic (VierraLink) owner indicated no issue with his TV. The workaround (as is also the case when the AVR is ON) is to set ARC or HDMI-CEC on the TV to OFF when not using that feature. You can also simply use an optical cable connection from the TV to the AVR rather than using ARC for the same quality audio.
Can someone please explain what this means? I have a Samsung LED with CEC.
What does "defaults to TV" mean? Does that mean the AVR is switching to the ARC input from the Samsung HDMI cable and the next time I turn on the AVR, the TV's audio output will be on, regardless of the input that had been selected? This doesn't really bother me, but it also sounds like pass through may not work at all with CEC enabled?
What do I lose by turning CEC to off? Do I lose any other handshake HDMI features, such as auto lip sync that is a main reason I'm purchasing a new AVR?
Basically, I just need to make sure I can have my cable STB be passed through HDMI to the Samsung TV when the AVR is in standby mode and that I can resolve my lip sync issues.
Pretty much the same with the main differences being the advanced gui which will overlay with 3D video.
BTW Denon has offered the Airplay upgrade for free on the 3311.
i didnt know that . nice to know .
FYI, ecost is getting over 20 of the AVR3312ci around monday i hear for 563.xx. macmall has free shipping , - have a $75 store credit for something that didnt work out AND $400 in discounts on credit card promos. So i am kinda excited to replace my Sony 5300ES AVR which will soon find a home on craigslist. They sell their refurbs for a bit less than the other guys. Ive always had good service with Ecost back to my first AVR Sony STRD3000ES
My cable box has an hdmi output connection so although it may not be 1080p (im not sure if it is on hd channels or 720 p) I enjoy using the hdmi only and not getting optical in the mix. My onkyo using optical never did this though. Isnt hdmi > optical? I might try it out.
Yes sub is at 12. I followed the guide of setting the phase , lpf to max. But I did just read to volume even lower . What's interesting is when running audyssey I can barely hear the sub doing its thing but I guess the Mic can.
One more question, when pressing the movie or music button it can cycle through stereo and direct, etc.
I'm using movie for cable tv and leave it on whatever setting is first (depends on the signal). Is this okay?
1. For a cable/sat box connection audio quality over HDMI should be no better than over optical.
2. Sub frequencies aren't meant to be heard, rather felt.
3. Stereo, yes ... Direct, no as there is a separate button for DIRECT.
4. Yup ..... as long as you're getting either DD PLII or DD/DTS.
I know this has been hashed over a ton, but I am still confused and I have read post #4. I just received a AVR-3312 to replace a 3808 so I can get 1.4a switching and I have not hooked it up yet as I also have a new Pioneer vsx-1121-k.
My question, does the 3312 degrade all HDMI signals from all sources being passed through it with the video converter on? I am putting this in a dedicated theater room recently upgraded to 3d.
From the few posters that reported this issue, IIRC, yes.
Can someone please explain what this means? I have a Samsung LED with CEC.
What does "defaults to TV" mean? Does that mean the AVR is switching to the ARC input from the Samsung HDMI cable and the next time I turn on the AVR, the TV's audio output will be on, regardless of the input that had been selected? This doesn't really bother me, but it also sounds like pass through may not work at all with CEC enabled?
What do I lose by turning CEC to off? Do I lose any other handshake HDMI features, such as auto lip sync that is a main reason I'm purchasing a new AVR?
Basically, I just need to make sure I can have my cable STB be passed through HDMI to the Samsung TV when the AVR is in standby mode and that I can resolve my lip sync issues.
Thanks!
Correct. With HDMI-CEC set to ON on the TV, the AVR will likely always switch to the TV input source on the AVR (although use of a Harmony remote can easily switch the input back to the desirec input). It also means you likely won't be able to use both HDMI pass through and ARC together, rather set HDMI Control to ON for the pass through and connect an optical cable from the TV to the AVR for the ARC audio. By setting HDMI-CEC to OFF you shouldn't lose any HDMI sync capability.
Correct. With HDMI-CEC set to ON on the TV, the AVR will likely always switch to the TV input source on the AVR (although use of a Harmony remote can easily switch the input back to the desirec input). It also means you likely won't be able to use both HDMI pass through and ARC together, rather set HDMI Control to ON for the pass through and connect an optical cable from the TV to the AVR for the ARC audio. By setting HDMI-CEC to OFF you shouldn't lose any HDMI sync capability.
Thanks-
So, to clarify again before I pull the trigger on a 2112:
1) CEC ON causes AVR to default to TV ARC input. No big deal here. I have a URC remote that should be able to manage this easily enough. I assume the Denon remote will too?
2) CEC ON enables ARC, but HDMI standby pass-through on the AVR may not work at all.
3) CEC OFF disables ARC, but standby HDMI passtrhough will work on the AVR. No other HDMI features lost. Presumably, universal remote control of other Samsung components is lost, but I don't have any, so no big deal. I can either lose the auido feed from the TV or, like you said, use optical at the cost of the single optical input on the 2112.
Sounds like it won't be a big deal to disable CEC. I'm not using any direct antenna/cable input, only STB/BR. All the network features on the TV are also available on my Panny BR player that also has Amazon, so no big deal there. Anything else where you'd need TV audio on the ARC? If no other HDMI 1.3/1.4 features are lost, like lip sync, I'll grab a 2112. Worst case I can always return it if there's a glitch;-)
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1. Correct. Although the Denon remote can change inputs, the URC remote can of course do it with a single button push.
2. Correct. The AVR still defaults to TV in standby mode so the standby source would not able to pass through.
3. Correct.
Whatever audio you might want to pass using the ARC (HDMI) will also pass over the optical audio out so there is no loss of the functionality of this feature, rather only the need to add the optical cable. Also note that if for some reason you want HDMI-CEC on the TV to be ON, but don't want to use the ARC feature, you can simply "disable" the TV input source on the AVR.
^^
2. Correct. The AVR still defaults to TV in standby mode so the standby source would not able to pass through.
Thanks again-
Sounds like CEC off will do the trick with no real downside for my situation.
I was skimming the manual and notice that turning the 2112 "HDMI Control" to ON also allows "Standby Source" to be set to "Last" or to any HDMI input. If this is what I think it is, I wonder if another work-around for me might be to set this to the HDMI input for my STB. If the issue is that CEC always appears to the AVR that the TV is "ON" and therefore is always "Last" and forces the AVR to switch, maybe an override to a specific HDMI would resolve it? Since I don't care about the "Last" functionality and only want STB on standby, I'll give it a try and report next week once my 2112 arrives;-)
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Sorry, but no ... as I describe in that quote you posted.
Drat, somehow I zoned out on that. Oh well. I put in an order for the 2112, since it appears that this same issue is going to be true of the 709 and other AVRs due to the nature of CEC. Thanks again for clarifying all this!
My cable box has an hdmi output connection so although it may not be 1080p (im not sure if it is on hd channels or 720 p) I enjoy using the hdmi only and not getting optical in the mix. My onkyo using optical never did this though. Isnt hdmi > optical? I might try it out.
HDMI is better than optical ONLY if you're sending a signal that optical can't handle. Only blu-ray and similar sources meet that description. Anything from a cable or satellite box will easily "fit" inside an optical cable... it doesn't need, or benefit from, the extra bandwidth that HDMI supports.
You don't need a firehose to water your potted plants. You can use one, but if you manage to hook that firehose up to the same faucet as the garden hose, you don't get "more" water out of it than the garden hose would have allowed in the first place.