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The **OFFICIAL** Denon AVR-XX12 Model Owner's Thread - Page 329

post #9841 of 17928
^^
Although technically, the XT version (1712) has more speaker filters than does the standard MultEQ (1612), you're not likely to notice the difference as much with a speaker setup < $1000. In that case, choose based on the features one provides over the other (eg. 1712 doesn't have a USB jack while the 1612 does; 1712 is 7.1/5.1+Zone 2 while the 1612 is only 5.1). The 1712 is really more designed for someone with other than an entry level speaker setup that doesn't want the networking feature offered in the 2112CI or higher models.
post #9842 of 17928
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

[...] Plus as long as you've waited this long, I would suggest waiting a few more months for the new XX13 models to be released as they are all supposed to be capable of being firmware updated via a USB jack, whereas only the networking models (1912 and higher) can currently be firmware updated by the owner.

Ugh, that's a whole other issue. I'd love to wait, but my main theater room is currently out of commission, as I already moved the old receiver into the living room (long story). OTOH I worry that these models will be obsolete once 4K video content & displays become available (as mentioned, I tend to keep my receivers for a looong time). That was one of the motivations for wanting to cheap-out with 1312, so I wouldn't care as much when/if I needed to replace it...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
Although technically, the XT version (1712) has more speaker filters than does the standard MultEQ (1612), you're not likely to notice the difference as much with a speaker setup < $1000. In that case, choose based on the features one provides over the other (eg. 1712 doesn't have a USB jack while the 1612 does; 1712 is 7.1/5.1+Zone 2 while the 1612 is only 5.1). The 1712 is really more designed for someone with other than an entry level speaker setup that doesn't want the networking feature offered in the 2112CI or higher models.

5.1, Paradigm Titans + Center, cheapo sub (Sony SAWM40 w/ the polyfill mod); probably "entry level" by AVS standards, yes? My main concern in this range isn't the ~$50 price difference, so much as availability. I can't find the 1712 locally, and I'm wary of shipping issues with an expensive receiver (the 1312 was so cheap it didn't matter as much).
post #9843 of 17928
^^
Well then if the 1612 meets all of your input and feature needs and is easier to obtain, then get it. I wouldn't worry about 4K as it likely won't become commonplace for another 4-5 years and even then unless you have a 100"+ PJ screen it's capability will be moot.
post #9844 of 17928
Woot just announced that they are authorized by Denon, so the warranty should be in full effect.
post #9845 of 17928
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
Well then if the 1612 meets all of your input and feature needs and is easier to obtain, then get it. I wouldn't worry about 4K as it likely won't become commonplace for another 4-5 years and even then unless you have a 100"+ PJ screen it's capability will be moot.

Well, actually... Though I suppose by the time I'm ready to upgrade my projector (which cost way too much) to 4K, another receiver won't be that big of a deal.
post #9846 of 17928
Quote:
Originally Posted by tremor13 View Post

Woot just announced that they are authorized by Denon, so the warranty should be in full effect.

As has been the case before, just because a reseller says they are authorized doesn't make it so, case in point Buy.com and Newegg. Before buying from Woot, I'd get a confirmation from Denon, although as already suggested, the 1612 is really the lowest model that should be considered for better audio fidelity.
post #9847 of 17928
2112 owner here. Is there a method to switch between headphone output and speaker output when headphones are plugged in? I would just like to be able to keep my headphones plugged in and hit a button my remote that swaps to my normal 5.1 system and vice versa without having to walk up to it and plug my headphone jack in.
post #9848 of 17928
^^
Sorry, but no. Connecting the headphones will disengage the main zone speakers. You could however, accomplish your goal using wireless headphones connected to the Zone 2 preouts (analog sources only though).
post #9849 of 17928
I bought a AVR-2312 couple of months back and I didnt see any problem till day before yesterday. Yesterday evening, I didnt get video when I selected the source Sat/Cable. I initially thought, it could be due to bad HDMI cable. So I tried with working HDMI cable, but it didnt help. When I directly connect the cable box with TV with the same cable, the video is good. So, there was no problem with the cable. I removed the power cable of AVR-2312 and put it back. After that I got the video for Sat/Cable. Dont know what has happened during the power cycle.

And then I wanted to test my rest of devices connected to the AVR. No issue on my BD player. I saw an issue with my xbox, i.e., the video quality is so so bad, its kind of having no signal at all.

When I setup the AVR first time (2 months back), I too tested with xbox and everything was good. After that I didnt use xbox and couple of times I have updated the firmware for the receiver. Again, when I connect the XBOX directly to my TV, everything was good. I have updated my xbox firmware and removed the power cable of receiver for the whole yesterday night. None of these helped. I still have bad bad quality of video for game (tried connecting game1/game2, set the input type to game, etc, but nothing changed).
post #9850 of 17928
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Yes .... using DD PLIIx, a 5.1 will be simulated to 7.1 to make use of the rear surround speakers, while DD PLIIz will simulate audio to the front height speakers.

What about DD EX vs DD PLIIx?
And how can I set it with a Dolby + signal(netflix)
post #9851 of 17928
^^
DD EX is a 6.1 signal which you could either play as is with the rear center channel being replicated in both rear surrounds in a 7.1 AFAIK, or using DD PLIIx would be simulated to 7.1. DD+ is simply another HD format which (if 5.1) can also be simulated up to 7.1 using either DD PLIIx or DD PLIIz.
post #9852 of 17928
Quote:
Originally Posted by sivat6 View Post

I bought a AVR-2312 couple of months back and I didnt see any problem till day before yesterday. Yesterday evening, I didnt get video when I selected the source Sat/Cable. I initially thought, it could be due to bad HDMI cable. So I tried with working HDMI cable, but it didnt help. When I directly connect the cable box with TV with the same cable, the video is good. So, there was no problem with the cable. I removed the power cable of AVR-2312 and put it back. After that I got the video for Sat/Cable. Dont know what has happened during the power cycle.

And then I wanted to test my rest of devices connected to the AVR. No issue on my BD player. I saw an issue with my xbox, i.e., the video quality is so so bad, its kind of having no signal at all.

When I setup the AVR first time (2 months back), I too tested with xbox and everything was good. After that I didnt use xbox and couple of times I have updated the firmware for the receiver. Again, when I connect the XBOX directly to my TV, everything was good. I have updated my xbox firmware and removed the power cable of receiver for the whole yesterday night. None of these helped. I still have bad bad quality of video for game (tried connecting game1/game2, set the input type to game, etc, but nothing changed).

This issue could be the result of a recent firmware update to the cable box or xbox. Try connecting the cable box and xbox to each of the other HDMI inputs.
post #9853 of 17928
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
Although technically, the XT version (1712) has more speaker filters than does the standard MultEQ (1612), you're not likely to notice the difference as much with a speaker setup < $1000. ....

Hmm, this separation along a speaker price dividing line strikes me as being a little too arbitrary. My instinct would be that the dividing line should be more related to how difficult the room may be, or, the number of speakers involved.

Is your $1000 figure a roundabout way meaning to suggest a greater possibility that the speaker system will be consisting of a less than full surround sound speaker setup (ex's: 2.0, 3.0, 2.1, 3.1)? If yes, then here I could more readily accept an assertion that the fewer filters provided with MultiEQ wouldn't have much, if any at all, noticeable difference from MultiEQ XT. In other words, more speakers will require more filters to achieve an optimal EQ result than fewer speakers would probably need to have. In a 3 speaker setup, for example, the extra filters available to MultiEQ XT will probably be underutilized, with a "not likely to notice a difference" result when compared to the lesser MultiEQ software.
post #9854 of 17928
^^
It's just a rough estimate, the take away being there's likely to be less of a noticeable improvement with entry level speakers. Room dynamics will of course play a role, however, in most cases someone with entry level speakers will generally want to pay less for their AVR as well.
post #9855 of 17928
Hey guys just looking back at the last 20-30 pages, I didn't find the answer so maybe someone here can help. I just got a AVR1712....

Question 1. I have a Velodyne Sub hooked up to the subwoofer pre-out on the back. My velodyne has 2 knobs, one for freq and one for volume.

When I do the Audyssey Setup, I turned the Freq knob to 150, and the volume to 1/2, but Audyssey can't pick up the sub. I have to turn the volume to 100%. Any help?

Question 2. I hooked up my Wii RCA to V.AUX, sound but no picture. Is it because of no up conversion on the 1712 and therefore from the AVR to the TV I have to hookup a RCA?

Thanks everyone!!! Loving the Denon so far!
post #9856 of 17928
^^
1. During the setup process, make sure the sub is set to "ON" and not "AUTO" if both settings are available.

2. Correct.
post #9857 of 17928
This is a question I actually posted on another sub-forum in this site but I am posting this here again

I have a 2112CI connected to a JamoS606 3.1 setup (with HSU VTF-2). The only device connected to my receiver is the PS3.

Now I played 3 different BDs & played my Kingdoms of Amalur. Every single time, the front panel of the AVR says that the audio is 'Stereo'. During the Auto Setup, it detects the Center channel but during playback I hear nothing from the Center Channel - audio comes from the sub and the two LR speakers.

I cannot select the different Surround Parameters as well on the AVR OSD (such as Dolby or DTS) as that option is grayed out. All connections are made with HDMI. What am I doing wrong ? Why can't I select Dolby or other Surround setups ? Is it because I don't have Rear Surrounds ?

Please help! $1400 on the entire setup and I am annoyed as hell!
post #9858 of 17928
^^^ You need to make sure your PS3 is set to output Bitstream over HDMI.
post #9859 of 17928
Quote:
Originally Posted by LVS View Post

^^^ You need to make sure your PS3 is set to output Bitstream over HDMI.

Well that seems to be the answer I think because that is what I got from my other posting from earlier. Thank you. I will update if this works.
post #9860 of 17928
^^
If the front panel reads "STEREO" then that is what the AVR is receiving which means the PS3 was never reset after being connected from the TV to the AVR, so reset the PS3 (ie. hold power ON button down longer than usual until a series of beeps is heard). Also note it doesn't matter whether the PS3 is set to LPCM or bitstream ... with either setting the center channel will work as long as the PS3 knows it's connected to a multi channel AVR vice the 2 CH TV.
post #9861 of 17928
Originally Posted by spager
I just figured this out after nearly 2 yrs. that I needed to turn off Hdmi control to off before it switched to tv. When the amp is on I'm using my HT speakers and when not I am using the Standby Source.

^^
I have to try this. I thought from reading Batpig notes from p.1, hdmi control needs to be on for hdmi standby to work.
post #9862 of 17928
Following the manual's directions, I cannot program my 1612 remote to control my Samsung LCD TV or Panasonic DVD player.

Help?? Thank you.
post #9863 of 17928
Quote:
Originally Posted by tvuong View Post

Originally Posted by spager
I just figured this out after nearly 2 yrs. that I needed to turn off Hdmi control to off before it switched to tv. When the amp is on I'm using my HT speakers and when not I am using the Standby Source.

^^
I have to try this. I thought from reading Batpig notes from p.1, hdmi control needs to be on for hdmi standby to work.

Yes, this is true, however, if you don't want the AVR to switch to TV when powered on, you must either set the HDMI-CEC on the TV to OFF or turn HDMI Control on the AVR to OFF.
post #9864 of 17928
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redpine View Post

Following the manual's directions, I cannot program my 1612 remote to control my Samsung LCD TV or Panasonic DVD player.

Help?? Thank you.

There are generally multiple codes for each device. Have you tried them all?
post #9865 of 17928
jdsmoothie is correct. Not only do you need to change from LPCM to bitstream, but you need to redo your PS3's auto setup for the audio and make sure that multi-channel information is being sent out through the HDMI cable. That should be found in the Audio settings. There is an auto function if you set the audio output through HDMI, it should automatically set it for multi-channel output. If this is done correctly, it won't matter if the HDMI audio is set to bitstream or LPCM, it will output 3.1 (5.1, 7.1 etc) content including Dolby Digital, DTS, DolbyTrueHD and DTS-MA.
post #9866 of 17928
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

There are generally multiple codes for each device. Have you tried them all?

When the 5 digit code comes up there is a (1/3) next to it, which I figured might be code one of three. But, I cannot figure out how to get to the next code. The manual implies that if the first code is not accepted, I will automatically be forwarded to the next one. But this doesn't happen.

How or where do I get the other codes?......I feel so stupid!
post #9867 of 17928
Quote:
Originally Posted by tvuong View Post

Originally Posted by spager
I just figured this out after nearly 2 yrs. that I needed to turn off Hdmi control to off before it switched to tv. When the amp is on I'm using my HT speakers and when not I am using the Standby Source.

^^
I have to try this. I thought from reading Batpig notes from p.1, hdmi control needs to be on for hdmi standby to work.

That's correct the Hdmi control needs to be on to use your Standby Source.
What the previous Poster was asking is why wouldn't the Hdmi Audio Out (Tv - Amp) work with the amp on.

The only real benefit for this option that I can see with Hdmi control off and Tv selected in Hdmi Audio Out is if you wanted tv speakers in the main zone and send audio to zone 2 .
post #9868 of 17928
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redpine View Post

When the 5 digit code comes up there is a (1/3) next to it, which I figured might be code one of three. But, I cannot figure out how to get to the next code. The manual implies that if the first code is not accepted, I will automatically be forwarded to the next one. But this doesn't happen.

How or where do I get the other codes?......I feel so stupid!

Just follow the directions on pp. 73/74 in your Owner's manual (press Quick Select 2) to select the additional codes.
post #9869 of 17928
but is anybody having problems with streaming music from a Mac to their Denon? I have a Denon 1912. Whenever I want to stream to the amp, my iTunes on my MacBook does not show the AirTunes/AirPlay icon.

I don't know what to do. I reboot everything. I reset the Denon microprocessor. It seems like an Apple bug or a Denon bug or a network issue.

Any thoughts? Possible solutions? Weblinks?

I repeat...rebooting and resetting has not worked thus far. The only thing that seems to work is not actually wanting to stream music from the Macbook, then it magically works again!
post #9870 of 17928
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

This issue could be the result of a recent firmware update to the cable box or xbox. Try connecting the cable box and xbox to each of the other HDMI inputs.

I tried connecting xbox to Game1 as well as Game2 HDMI ports. I am seeing the same issue on both ports.
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