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Marantz SR5006 / Marantz SR6006 Receiver Thread - Page 61

post #1801 of 1955
I have a two questions to ask:

1. Added a new receiver and the only free HDMI outputs were VCR and Game. So, I plugged my DVD player in both of the free inputs and no picture. I unplugged one that I am currently using for another device and it works. Can anyone help me identify this issue?

2.I finally purchased a blu-ray player and currently watching a Dolby True HD movie, is there anyway to know on the receiver screen if its processing the True HD or DTS?
post #1802 of 1955
1. Some devices may not work on every HDMI input; however, if the free inputs work with at least one of your devices, you should be good to go.
2. On the BD itself ensure the HD track is selected (as that is not always the default track). On the remote, press the STATUS/OSD button.
Edited by jdsmoothie - 6/29/13 at 5:27pm
post #1803 of 1955
I was wondering if there was anyway you could check to see what firmware you have installed?
post #1804 of 1955
Not as an on board feature no, as it was only added starting with the 2012 models.
post #1805 of 1955
So there's no way to tell? That's ridiculous. Lol
post #1806 of 1955
Not really that important as there is no information published on the Marantz website to track it to specific changes, rather simply note that the unit will alert you when there is a firmware update available.
post #1807 of 1955
I'm guessing that this has been brought up before, but I did a search on this thread and the forum and didn't see an answer, so my apologies if this is repetitive.

When hooking up my laptop to the Marantz 5006 through an hdmi cable, I can see my Windows desktop on my tv, but when I try to send test tones from the laptop to the speakers I get no sound. This came up in an attempt to set-up my Umik-1 and REW. Also, though REW can see my receiver (it's listed in the ASIO control panel) no sound comes from the speakers when trying to take a measurement. Here are the details:

- Laptop is not in "mute"
- AVR is recognized as a playback device in windows and is set as the default
- "Levels" in the "Properties" menu of the AVR is set to 100.
- When sending a test tone through the configuration window after selecting the AVR as a playback devices, the little sound meter next to the AVR name shows the laptop sending a test tone, but no sound.
- Windows desktop is displayed on my tv, so the right input is selected and video is working
- Tried a different hdmi cable with the same result
- Tried a different input (which my BD player has been successfully using) and still video with no sound.
- While keeping my laptop plugged into the AVR, I unplugged the AVR to restart it. Still no sound.

I'm out of ideas. I'm sure there is a button I just need to push, but need some help finding it.
post #1808 of 1955
This is most likely an issue caused by a setting on your laptop so you may want to check in a laptop forum for some guidance.
post #1809 of 1955
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jobio View Post

I'm guessing that this has been brought up before, but I did a search on this thread and the forum and didn't see an answer, so my apologies if this is repetitive.

When hooking up my laptop to the Marantz 5006 through an hdmi cable, I can see my Windows desktop on my tv, but when I try to send test tones from the laptop to the speakers I get no sound. This came up in an attempt to set-up my Umik-1 and REW. Also, though REW can see my receiver (it's listed in the ASIO control panel) no sound comes from the speakers when trying to take a measurement. Here are the details:

- Laptop is not in "mute"
- AVR is recognized as a playback device in windows and is set as the default
- "Levels" in the "Properties" menu of the AVR is set to 100.
- When sending a test tone through the configuration window after selecting the AVR as a playback devices, the little sound meter next to the AVR name shows the laptop sending a test tone, but no sound.
- Windows desktop is displayed on my tv, so the right input is selected and video is working
- Tried a different hdmi cable with the same result
- Tried a different input (which my BD player has been successfully using) and still video with no sound.
- While keeping my laptop plugged into the AVR, I unplugged the AVR to restart it. Still no sound.

I'm out of ideas. I'm sure there is a button I just need to push, but need some help finding it.

Most PCs that have HDMI outputs also have a conventional audio interface in addition to the 4 stereo audio interfaces for the HDMI output. The conventional audio interface may support from 2 to 6 channels. By default most music player software you run on the laptop is routed to the conventional audio output which is connected to a headphone jack.

Depending on what your situation and preferences are, there are two general ways to go. One good starting point is to change audio settings via the system control panel or via settings on the music player (if they exist) so that audio is routed through the first pair of channels on the HDMI output. It sounds like you have taken much of this into account.

You may be using A/V player software that has its own settings for routing audio output(s) that are overriding the system defaults. Remember software can have its own defaults that override system defaults.

I don't see where you have said what A/V player software you are using, and some of them have their own ways of doing things. It might help to start out with Windows Media player. Set things up so that the audio output is routed through the headphone jack, and when that is working redirect the sound to the HDMI output.
post #1810 of 1955
Quote:
Originally Posted by arnyk View Post

Most PCs that have HDMI outputs also have a conventional audio interface in addition to the 4 stereo audio interfaces for the HDMI output. The conventional audio interface may support from 2 to 6 channels. By default most music player software you run on the laptop is routed to the conventional audio output which is connected to a headphone jack.

Depending on what your situation and preferences are, there are two general ways to go. One good starting point is to change audio settings via the system control panel or via settings on the music player (if they exist) so that audio is routed through the first pair of channels on the HDMI output. It sounds like you have taken much of this into account.

You may be using A/V player software that has its own settings for routing audio output(s) that are overriding the system defaults. Remember software can have its own defaults that override system defaults.

I don't see where you have said what A/V player software you are using, and some of them have their own ways of doing things. It might help to start out with Windows Media player. Set things up so that the audio output is routed through the headphone jack, and when that is working redirect the sound to the HDMI output.

I wasn't using software to start, just the test tones in the "sound" menu of the control panel. If I select the computer speakers and play the tone I can hear it through the computers. If I select the AVR again and play the test tone, nothing. I also tried sending a tone through REW with no luck, even though the AVR is listed in the AISO settings as the output device.

Any settings on the receiver I should look at again?
post #1811 of 1955
hey guys. I recently moved my SR5006 into my small 2-channel setup. Wondering what the best way to run Audyssey for this system is? I'm using a REL T3 subwoofer via the Speakon connector only (no LFE connection). I'm assuming the best way is to run Audyssey without the REL connected and then connect it when the setup is done running? I would also assume that since the REL will be connected to the speaker terminals, that I should set the speakers as large instead of small?

Thanks!
post #1812 of 1955
The best way would be to let Audyssey EQ the sub by not using the Speakon connector, rather only using the coax digital connection from the sub pre-out to the sub and leave it that way (ie. no Speakon connector).
post #1813 of 1955
Am I the only one with the Marantz App that keeps crashing. Every time I use it to switch sources from TV to internet to listen to Pandora, the app just shuts down. I takes me 3-4 app launches before it actually lets me get that far without crashing.
post #1814 of 1955
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jobio View Post

I wasn't using software to start, just the test tones in the "sound" menu of the control panel. If I select the computer speakers and play the tone I can hear it through the computers. If I select the AVR again and play the test tone, nothing. I also tried sending a tone through REW with no luck, even though the AVR is listed in the AISO settings as the output device.

Any settings on the receiver I should look at again?

Turns out the problem was solved by shutting down the computer and turning off the receiver, making the HDMI connection, then turning everything back on. For some reason, connecting the HDMI to the receiver while the computer was running caused the problem.
post #1815 of 1955
I am having a problem with the audio output of my Marantz 5006. I'm not sure if the problem is with the receiver, the PS3, or with online streaming services.

When I am watching Hulu or Amazon prime video, audio that should be output in dolby digital 5.1 is not being played back correctly. Instead of playing a 5.1 signal, the receiver only plays 2-channel audio. When I check the receiver status, dolby digital is being played and a 5.1 (or 7.1) signal is indicated, but only 2-channel audio is played back. When I cycle through the different 'surround' modes, I only have access to dolby digital, stereo, and auto. All sound the same (2-channel).

My setup is the PS3 hooked into the 5006 via HDMI, and the PS3 connected to a LG 60PA6500 via HDMI. I also have an apple tv, which works with no problems with Netflix, but has the above audio issues with Hulu.

Is anyone else having these problems? I've seen a few things on the Amazon support pages, but no real solutions.
post #1816 of 1955
I don't get it.

I scrapped an Onkyo TX-NR807 because the HDMI board, and associated network functions went bad...twice. I bought the SR6006 to replace it, expecting better quality.

For the last eight months, I've been unable to access any of the network functions. This is on a unit that is now two years old. I.O.W., the network function lasted just over a year before quitting. Unit is installed in a well-ventilated AV cabinet, with two 120 mm fans mounted behind the SR6006, pulling air out of the cabinet.

I've done all the reset procedures listed earlier in the thread, including the hard resets that wipe out all the settings (what fun that is to set up over and over again, because the network function isn't available to reload the saved settings file).

Looks like this unit will have to go in for service when I find the time to call in a warranty claim.

Can't anyone build these things with reliability at least as good as a thirty year old Ford? I'm starting to hate this A/V "hobby". I've got a 20 year old Kenwood receiver that, for the last three years, has been running 19 hours per day, seven days per week, at my business, without a single hiccup. Over 40 years ago, we put men on the moon, and I can't buy a receiver that works as advertised for more than a year or two? mad.gif
post #1817 of 1955
Quote:
Originally Posted by gabbro View Post

I am having a problem with the audio output of my Marantz 5006. I'm not sure if the problem is with the receiver, the PS3, or with online streaming services.

When I am watching Hulu or Amazon prime video, audio that should be output in dolby digital 5.1 is not being played back correctly. Instead of playing a 5.1 signal, the receiver only plays 2-channel audio. When I check the receiver status, dolby digital is being played and a 5.1 (or 7.1) signal is indicated, but only 2-channel audio is played back. When I cycle through the different 'surround' modes, I only have access to dolby digital, stereo, and auto. All sound the same (2-channel).

My setup is the PS3 hooked into the 5006 via HDMI, and the PS3 connected to a LG 60PA6500 via HDMI. I also have an apple tv, which works with no problems with Netflix, but has the above audio issues with Hulu.

Is anyone else having these problems? I've seen a few things on the Amazon support pages, but no real solutions.

As the PS3 doesn't have dual HDMI outputs, you are likely using an HDMI splitter and if your TV cannot receive a DD 5.1 signal, the splitter will only pass stereo audio to both devices. However, not sure why the AVR is then indicating receiving a DD 5.1 signal. What happens when you disconnect the HDMI connection to the TV?
post #1818 of 1955
Quick question, and I apologize if it's been covered already (just point me in the right direction).

I just added some outdoor speakers to my set up and have them in Zone 2.
Everything works fine, but for whatever reason, the volume level on the SAT input is really really low now. I run everything at the same level so when I switch inputs, the volume level is right, but when I switch to SAT, the volume level decreases (the actual level on the screen is the same, but it sounds muted?)
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Stewart

SR6006
post #1819 of 1955
Volume level where ... main zone? Zone 2? Both?
post #1820 of 1955
In the Main zone, on the SAT input. I don't seem to have the same issue with any other inputs. The levels on those are fine.
Zone 2 was loud as well, but it seems to have softened up some too. Really odd, I"m sure I made a change somewhere but just don't know where.
I'll continue working with it and see what I can figure out too.
Thanks!
post #1821 of 1955
Hi guys,

I'm looking at possibly recommending a refurbed 6006 to a guy, but have some questions:

1- Has this unit been known to be more trouble prone than other units?

2- How decent is the phone stage? Would one be smarter to save a bit of money and get a 5000 model with no stage and then get a modest separate phono amp?

3- Is there much noticeable difference in real world power between the 5000 and 6000 lines?

He may be looking at some 97 dB Klipsch F-30s or some 89 dB Polk RTis.

Thanks!
post #1822 of 1955
^^
1. Not that I am aware of, however what are his movie/music mix % expected to be (eg. if 50/50, then also consider Denon 2112CI, 2113CI, X2000 models)? What about Zone 2 requirements? You may want to consider the newer 5008 or 6008 depending on the features required as the newer models offer more advanced Airplay (ie. capability to play separately in Zone 2 with another source playing in the main zone; All Zone Stereo to play the same HDMI source in both the main zone and Zone 2; InstaPreview to view small image of other sources connected to the AVR).

2. Yup.

3. Nope. However, also note that the 10W difference would be just as negligible as a 30W difference.
Edited by jdsmoothie - 7/24/13 at 6:12pm
post #1823 of 1955
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
1. Not that I am aware of, however what are his movie/music mix % expected to be (eg. if 50/50, then also consider Denon 2112CI, 2113CI, X2000 models)? What about Zone 2 requirements? You may want to consider the newer 5008 or 6008 depending on the features required as the newer models offer more advanced Airplay (ie. capability to play separately in Zone 2 with another source playing in the main zone; All Zone Stereo to play the same HDMI source in both the main zone and Zone 2; InstaPreview to view small image of other sources connected to the AVR).

2. Yup.

3. Nope. However, also note that the 0W difference would be just as negligible as a 30W difference.


Thanks! I think his music use will far outweigh movie use, so I assume that leads us to Marantz. (?) Your answer to #2 will steer me to maybe suggest a 5007 refurb.

I'm having a slow moment on "OW", however.
post #1824 of 1955
Quote:
Originally Posted by gabbro View Post

I am having a problem with the audio output of my Marantz 5006. I'm not sure if the problem is with the receiver, the PS3, or with online streaming services.

When I am watching Hulu or Amazon prime video, audio that should be output in dolby digital 5.1 is not being played back correctly. Instead of playing a 5.1 signal, the receiver only plays 2-channel audio. When I check the receiver status, dolby digital is being played and a 5.1 (or 7.1) signal is indicated, but only 2-channel audio is played back. When I cycle through the different 'surround' modes, I only have access to dolby digital, stereo, and auto. All sound the same (2-channel).

My setup is the PS3 hooked into the 5006 via HDMI, and the PS3 connected to a LG 60PA6500 via HDMI. I also have an apple tv, which works with no problems with Netflix, but has the above audio issues with Hulu.

Is anyone else having these problems? I've seen a few things on the Amazon support pages, but no real solutions.


I'm seeing a similar issue, however the front panel display only shows R/L stereo signal. None of my HDMI devices have 5.1/DD/DTS now. I am able to connect the audio separately via optical input and multi-channel works fine, but not over HDMI. This has happened 2 or 3 times in the past and somehow it came back. I've tried resetting the processor with the front panel, with no change.
post #1825 of 1955
post #1826 of 1955
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianWilson View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
1. Not that I am aware of, however what are his movie/music mix % expected to be (eg. if 50/50, then also consider Denon 2112CI, 2113CI, X2000 models)? What about Zone 2 requirements? You may want to consider the newer 5008 or 6008 depending on the features required as the newer models offer more advanced Airplay (ie. capability to play separately in Zone 2 with another source playing in the main zone; All Zone Stereo to play the same HDMI source in both the main zone and Zone 2; InstaPreview to view small image of other sources connected to the AVR).

2. Yup.

3. Nope. However, also note that the 0W difference would be just as negligible as a 30W difference.


Thanks! I think his music use will far outweigh movie use, so I assume that leads us to Marantz. (?) Your answer to #2 will steer me to maybe suggest a 5007 refurb.

I'm having a slow moment on "OW", however.

Do you mean you're having trouble decoding response #3?

He's just pointing out that the differences in power output ratings among all of these models are completely inaudible. 130 Watts is not audibly louder than 100 Watts. Our hearing is extremely non-linear. A factor of two in power (i.e. 200W/channel) is required to get a 3dB difference in maximum sound level. You need a 10dB difference in sound level for it to seem to be twice as loud. In other words, the Klipsh speakers are a better choice if you want an audio system that's noticeably louder.
post #1827 of 1955
My 6006 has been great since I got it, however the past week there has been an issue I can't figure out. The volume level seems to have degraded, no matter what device I'm using. I run the avr with Audyssey on, dynamic eq on, and dynamic volume off. Standard watching used to be comfortableat between -30 to -25, loud used to be around -20 to -15 and reference was about -10. 0 was ear splittingly loud and I couldn't tolerate it for more than a couple minutes. Lately though, I've had to crank it up to -10 to get loud and 0 for not quite reference level. Is it possible that my avr is going bad?
post #1828 of 1955
Yup, although first try resetting the microprocessor (p. 150 OM) after first using the Web Control SAVE feature to save a copy of the config file to a PC, otherwise you'll have to run Audyssey again. If still no joy, then check the Marantz website for the nearest authorized service center.
post #1829 of 1955
jd - quick question. Think I have solved my speaker level issue, but now have an issue with zone 2/3.
The only thing that I can get to play through zone 2/3 is the Net/USB source (or Source if it is already on Net/USB).
When I switch zone 2/3 to anything else, I don't get anything - regardless if something is playing on that source.
Any ideas?
Thanks a ton!
post #1830 of 1955
Keep in mind that only the on board sources (USB, network, Airplay, Tuner) and external sources connected with an analog cable can pass to Zones 2/3 (ie. no HDMI or optical/digital coax sources). This is true for over 95% of the AVRs on the market today.
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