2011 Mitsubishi DLP WD-73640 official thread - Page 35

yadfgp, we didn't ignore you, but we did point out that it may not be easy to "notice", and have not heard whether you actually did the testing we recommended. As of my post just above this one, there is an easy way for you to know for sure: Download and burn the ISO I provide.

I too, purchased from Best Buy on Thanksgiving.

Downloading the ISO now - Thanks

Excellent work tthowl!

I'll dl that and burn it and try it out sometime this weekend.

thhowl,

Since we are at about the same viewing distance whats the height of your stand? I'm building a new stand now, it's currently sitting on my coffee table which is about 15" tall, too tall for 7' viewing distance, I figure around 12" will be perfect for my theater chairs. The only bad thing is your feet will be in the bottom of the screen when reclined completely.

I'll get some pictures up when I'm done, should be done by middle of this coming week. Building a flexy stand.

Pictures will be much appreciated... I'm going to need a new stand once we get our 92" ordered...

I've got to ask again... When you brought this subject about artifacts and blurring up to Mitsubishi, what was there response?

I keep asking this, and no one answers.......

Power DVD 11 gives me a "unsupported format " message when trying to play the burned ISO.
Plays just fine in my blu ray player. Of course I didn't realize this was basically the material I already tested with my PC. I guess this is for people who do not have a PC as a source for their sets. For them this should be useful. Good work.

When I spoke to a escalation person who seemed to be knowledgeable based on limited conversation he listened then asked "does it look like a rainbow". Of course I explained it was not the color wheel separation phenomenon known as "Rainbow effect". I explained in great detail how it seemed to be related to color processing. I explained the artifacts, noise, "ghosting" of lips etc. I explained how backing out color from a test image eliminated the artifacts before your eyes. He said he had never seen or heard of any such thing and would really like to see it. I offered to send him photos, he said yes, please do. I emailed 4 images. This was Friday, he never replied to the email. I have a service call set for tomorrow. The images I sent him where the 2 ESPN images I posted earlier ( http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post21536722 ) and two images of the test pattern, one with color and accompanying artifacts the other with color removed and apparently as a result artifacts removed as well.
It is going to be interesting explaining the issue to the "tech" that comes out. Will a board swap fix the issue if Mitsubishi doe snot know of the issue? How would send a board without the issue if you don't know it? Maybe they know of it and aren't saying they do? Who knows

Alaskan, my stand is currently 1/2 inch tall. The hearth of my corner fireplace. I have the TV leaning backwards ever so slightly by propping the front up another 1/2 inch. This shoots the center of the TV straight into my tired, drooping head, 7 to 8 feet away.

Probably doesn't help my geometry...

For reclining, I lay on the couch, with my feet off to the side - but then the tilt is a little upward. It's not ideal, and, fortunately, temporary. Due to a job change, my family of 5 had to move into this tiny apartment after 11 years of home ownership.

In the old home, where I had a 65" 2009 Mits DLP, I put it on two of those little square $14 coffee tables that IKEA and others make. AV components fit nicely under those. That was a great height for sitting with my toes up to the screen in a zero gravity chair.

My stand is 35" high and I am 14 feet away. Personally I prefer looking very slightly up ( more like a theater).

My first DLP I built a stand into the wall - Something like boomhowers fireplace mantle. That's why I asked about his mantle if it was deep enough I would consider placing the TV on it, if I had the distance

Here is a link to my setup, picture taken from eye level seated position
http://i41.tinypic.com/11vqmbo.jpg

with flash on again from seated position, eye level
http://i42.tinypic.com/14xdirr.jpg

While this uses the same test image, this less-zoomed-in video of it greatly increases the occurrence and intensity of the defect. (I am talking about the "Main Test Video" not the "Introduction" which is indeed the same video I posted previously on my site.)

Don't know about the Power DVD error, sorry. On Windows 7, you can play the individual .m2ts files by double-clicking them in folder [DVD-DRIVE]:\\BDMV\\STREAM\\ (only the first two, large videos will play)

File [DVD-DRIVE]:\\BDMV\\STREAM\\00001.m2ts is the Main Test Video

I'm puzzled by you wanting "more like a theater" but sitting 14 feet away. 14 feet away from a 73 inch TV is the same screen size as 7 feet away from a 36 inch TV. My 36 inch CRT hardly gave me a theater experience.

I'm also puzzled by a 35" stand that puts the center of the screen 5 feet off the ground. Do you have the TV tilted downward ? (as they do in theaters) These TVs do not have a good viewing angle from below: too dim.

EDIT: Oh, you added pictures to your post. That answers my tilt question. Is that the center channel, 10 feet in the air? Does it ever feel like people are talking above you?

No it sounds and looks great specifications boy.

Only time it ever feels like people are talking "above me" is when *******s like you who think you know everything based off of specifications try and lecture me.

BTW the tweeters are aimable

"14 feet away from a 73 inch TV is the same screen size as 7 feet away from a 36 inch" That ranks up there as one of the more stupid things i've read

Thanks for you report of the Mits support call, which I just saw above.

Based on my experience with an escalation at Mits I would say they are pretty low level tech support folks. I don't know how they are structured. For several years I ran an escalation team at Compaq. We were called 2LS for Second Level Support but that was actually a 3tier team. Our first level people were more technical by far than the "escalation" people I spoke to at Mits in the past. Then we had tier two which consisted of team lead caliber folks who reviewd the work of first group and verified the case was appropriate to escalate. My group worked the escalated casesfrom tier 2 to resolution and captured components and whole units to allow engineering to actually do firmware updates, or create other fixes (hardware). Even the team I ran was not always aware of things that engineering knew about. But we were often aware of ongoing problems that engineering and legal had not decided how to proceed on.

I would expect their escalations people are at most a level one group and don't know much of anything. I had issues with my 82837 that I never brought forward to the Mits support folks because I honestly felt they were not technical enough to grasp the problem description.

Hopefully, the escalations folks are at least conscientous and the problem management process is rigourous enough to be closed loop. Proper event management is always closed loop.


After being an escalation team manager at Compaq, Compaq was bought by HP. I wanted to add that when HP was making DLPs I had to deal with the HP TV support people a couple of times and they were terrible compared to the computer people. This was designed in.. The escalation people for TVs at HP at the time were more Customer Relations reps than anything else and had little or no product knowledge. I can only assume Mits works the same way.

Wow, this is weird...

Now that I have a new receiver and going HDMI, I can actaully do 1920 x 1080 and its Full Screen, No OverScan.

Restarted the computer several times, and still 1920 x 1080, Nice!

Never was able to do that before, Always had to re-size to 1804 x 1014 or whatever.

Your PC is scaling it down. When you changed signal paths, the graphics card reset to it's default, which is to scale down to compensate for the overscan. (1920x1080 squished into a smaller pixel area). My card did that to me too a couple times. Had to fiddle to get it back to 1-1 pixel output.

The overscan is in the hardware (the light beam off the mirrors) and cannot be changed.

Good for You for contacting them....
I can pass this along... If they don't 'find anything' on the first reply, be firm but not confrontational. They may be in over their head, and don't (Yet) have enough information to pass it on to the next tier. Be firm but polite..... Be prepared to give them more information.... Eventually they won't have an idea how to settle it, and therefore you'll get "bumped upstairs"..
To the next Support Level. Which was what you wanted anyway........

That's what worked for me.....

To squish or not to squish, that is the question...

Here is my initial feedback on these glasses. First 3D and DLP link. I am impressed by the overall quality of the 3D. It always seemed to be a gimmick to me and certainly not a main consideration for buying any hardware. I was also concerned there would be visible flickering. I can say the True Depths synced via DLP link without issue and there is zero noticeable flickering. I had two 3d BR's to evaluate the glasses with:
1) Imax ultimate wave Tahiti. Really some awesome 3d in this title and in general beautiful PQ. A couple true in your face moments.
2)Coraline. A few good examples of 3D in this title.

So the True Depths are comfortable and rechargeable both pluses. But how about picture quality. Overall I would say the picture quality was very good. I do notice some "reflection" at the periphery of the inside of the glasses . I read about this in reviews of almost all 3D glasses and I assume to some extent this is somewhat unavoidable. In a way you need to focus on a more narrow part of the overall image for best effect. The issue of green cast in black parts of the image: I did notice this, but overall it seemed rather minor. Specifically I noticed it is very evident if you let your chin down. If your head is angled up just slightly the green tint is either unnoticeable or extremely subtle.

Overall I am not 100% decided as to whether I should return these and buy the Optoma ZD101's. I want to watch at least one more title with these. I would be surprised if this tint issue does not occur when you either raise or lower your angle of view on any of the glasses. DRAVEN, can you tell me if you look down at the screen or up at the screen if the ZD101's show any noticeable change?

I hope my report helps anyone still considering 3D glasses.

Anyone using the universal Playstation 3D glasses (Sony 98079)? The box says they work with Mitsubishi, among others, but I can't get the lenses to come on at all. I'm using an external ir emitter. I might take them to the store after work and see if they'll work with any display there.

Update:
Took the glasses to BB and they worked on Panasonic, Samsung, & Sony 3D tvs on display (not sure if I tried an LG). Updated my WD-73C11 from 13.04 to 13.05 and still no luck on getting the lenses to "activate".

Thank you for you report Empirical. I have been testing both sets with these movies the last couple of hours all are 3D:

None have any tinting issues with the ZD101's, head to the side or up down.

Basically, all dark scenes are tinted green no matter which way you look through the TD's.
Tangled: TD's not as evident but still there in dark scenes
Tron: Evident, do to dark movie in general
Cars2: Brighter daylight scenes looks a little washed out with green tint in dark scenes.

Avatar: Same all darks scenes, blurry in some day scenes.
Megamind: Looks fantastic and really stood out 3d wise with the ZD101's. TD's same as the rest of the movies above.

Conclusion: I am tossing these TD's. My daughter and nephews all saw the same thing and we all agreed the ZD101's are still the better.

Again, appreciated the feedback Empirical. I only bought one set of TD's originally as to test them out. Buy you one pair of the ZD101's and try them out. Let others(family/friends) see the difference between the two also.

Honestly, if you don't buy a pair of ZD101's, you won't know the difference. Give it shot man. (If anything you can ebay them if you don't like them)

Just a minute gonna check another thing with ZD's....

Ok. Just did a walk around test with room dark, Avatar with the scene where Jake meets Neytiri, and the seeds of Aywa fall on to him. I walked around from 7-8 feet from tv all the way back to right around 20 feet in a half circle. No change in any part of the picture, PQ wise or depth of 3d with ZD101's. The only thing settings wise I change is from Natural(calibrated settings) to Bright for more "pop" and it looks really great.

I am gonna see if I can capture the tint on the TD's through the lens and through the lens on the ZD's. Give me about a half hour to do this.

Do you notice any change specifically when looking up at the screen versus looking down at the screen( basically chin down, chin up ).

Appreciate your testing!

Just took those, same shot, no photoshop, just paint to put titles in and thats exactly what we see with the true depths. (not the blurryness, thats the camera, but that green is how it is on the whole screen.)

Hopefully you guys get the idea on what I am talking about. Wish I would have thought of this oh, 4 months earlier. dar..

Yeah, Emp, thats how it looks no matter where you are. These were taken standing up.

Both sets look like they do in those pics no matter where you are position wise.

gonna go grab another shot of the TD while I am on that image.

I am going to watch this movie tonight to see if I have the same results. Like I said I did see green tint in mine but only based on angle of view. I will watch Avatar tonight and maybe sending these glasses back.

Did you use a flash to take those pictures?

No. And give me 5 minutes to title and upload the next pics.