2011 Mitsubishi DLP WD-73640 official thread - Page 50

What he said, none whatsoever.

Wife watched multiple Cable, On Demand, and DVR (LG from OTA) and all looked good to me last night...

I downloaded the new upgrade 13.6 last night.

I had already accomplished the 13.4 and 13.5 without any hitches.

Following the instructions, it updated to 13.6 and displayed a PURPLE startup screen instead of the normal BLUE.

TV then came on to cable and everything was in PURPLE tones, then screen went blank and the green power light started flashing.

Called MITS and after troubleshooting they scheduled a main power board replacement.

Coincidence - maybe, suspicious - yes.

I'll report back when the new main board is installed next week.
Edit: Mits has scheduled board replacement for 3/28/2012

Meanwhile I've got a 22" Vizio in front of my 73" Mits to hold me over LOL.

Welcome back, Timmons! I have an older model, and no lag. I don't recall lag ever being a problem with Mits DLPs, however I remember reading that Samsung had lag problems with their earlier sets.

What a great comparison. A picture is worth a thousand words.

I pulled the trigger on the WD-73740 model tigerdirect was selling for under a grand refurbished (got a 2 year extended warranty) . I am pretty excited to get it up and running and hopefully it arrives and doesn't have any glitches. I'm kind of worried about refurb models but with the warranty in mind not that worried really.

Good luck with it.

I'm surprised there hasn't been more postings on the new firmware....

It seems better here.. but I was hoping that others that had tested with picture and test patterns would give their comments...

But it's been strangely quiet....

Am I missing something?

Jan

I watched some Blu-Ray last night and it looked very good. It was not material that lent itself to looking for the false braces.

Hi guys, sry to ask a question that has probably already been answered but I am in a hurry since I have someone wanting to buy my Samsung C7000 Plasma. I hate the ghosting on my plasma and would love to add 20in for 3d, is there any reason I should hesitate selling my C7000 for $800 and buying this for $1000?

Nope. I ended up getting rid of a 54" VT25 for that reason and Black Crush. Perfectly happy with this unit. Page 35 goes in depth about glasses for this DLP also. Get it, put 200 hrs on the bulb and calibrate it. And yes, bigger is better for 3D.

I originally loved the 54" VT25 Plasma. Avatar never looked so good and I was smitten by this set till I got it home, calibrated it, and watched blacks just get deeper and deeper. I then realized that some 3D content wasn't full screen. So that makes a 54" a 47" or less with the black bars. Suckage. Enter the realm of DLP, big screen, no ghosting in 3d with right glasses. And really, think about all these active shutter glasses. Regardless of LCD/Plasma/DLP, you are looking through LCD glasses on all of them to see 3d. Why not get the biggest you can afford? Go get it, update the firmware, buy the Optoma ZD101's. (ZD201's are more comfortable if you can get them.)

I never needed Howl's DVD for testing the problem, because I saw it in so many normal viewing conditions... just didn't need to prove it to myself. That stuff was more for convincing Mits and other users who kept saying their set didn't have the bug. Right after the firmware update, I tested my Transformers 2 BD, ESPN HD cable, Iron Man BD, and Freddy vs Jason BD to look for the bug (all but FvsJ I previously posted pics of here)... non displayed it.

I can tell you that after installing Firmware .06 that I finally had the drive to DL the free calibration videos in these forums and fine-tune my set. Using "Natural" video mode on the "High" color temp, I was able to get brightness/contrast/color all pretty much within 'spec' of the tests... color/tint was 100% perfect according to the tests. And yes, I realize this isn't the same as calibrating with actual calibration tools... but its better then nothin'.

The sharpness test showed that sharpness at 0 is optimum... The kinda 'standard' size black lines/bars/squares didn't show much noticeable haloing until about 8-10... but the finer patterns showed weirdness going on as soon as you hit sharpness level 1-2. To be clear, sharpness at 0 showed no haloing at all... so I assume that means there's no sneaky sharpness settings going on... unless its color based and not noticeable on grey/black standard sharpness tests.

Other then that, a couple times watching cable I've wondered if some less-then-crisp text was the fault of the set or the compression of the HD signal... I'm assuming it's the compression, because I haven't noticed any non-crisp text on BD content. Tonight is a 'movie night' so I should get a chance to test out a couple things.

Right now --- I'm very happy with the fix. I'd cautiously say its 100% fixed.

Thanks, I have the optoma glasses but never thought I would used them, they came with the 3DXL boxes and I only use them for a dual projection 3D setup. I was thinking about getting the monster glasses though because DLP link adds the white frames, any reason not to do that?

White frames?? Not that I could see. I have watched over 20+ 3D films on this TV and the only problem I ran into was a green tinting issue with the True Depth glasses. The ZD101's were crystal clear as per page 36 of this thread.

I thought all DLP link inserted white frames, isn't that how they sync with the tv/projector?

Can you post a link to the video calibrations JP32?

Wife and I have been liking the upgrade too....

No prob.... (in the calibration sub forum, fyi)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496

In case anyone cares --- I didn't burn a dvd or BD of it. I dl'd the mp4 version. Then I'm pretty sure that I had to unzip it... Once that was done, I just copied the folders onto a thumb-drive and played it directly via my PS3. I bet most BD players that support playing mp4's will play them as well.

There's an instruction manual listed in that thread with all the various download options, it tells you how to use each test.

The way I did it, it doesn't have any menus or anything like a real dvd would... Once I was done with a test, I'd just back out and select the next one. Each clip is 5 minutes long I think.

No. There is a square wave sync pulse already being generated for each frame. Part of this square wave has a notch in it called the "porch". The DLP-Link™ signal is inserted there, and appears as a flash of light approximately 24.75 microseconds in duration. This flash is what syncs the display and glasses.

IMHO that is because many of us switched to the following thread to continue to document/discuss the issue - that should account for some of the quietness.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1397654

Hey guys, thanks for this thread it has been very helpful. I picked up this tv on amazon for 760 shipped from a third party seller. It will arrive today!! I will try to post pics if I can.

problems disappeared here with the new firmware. Only checked ESPN though.

Hello all. l recently purchased this monster tv from Amazon. For the most part l'm really digging it, but l'm having a frustrating audio issue that l hope you guys can help me with. First of all let me state that this is a tv speaker issue, as l have yet to buy any sort of surround system yet. Anyway, the issue seems to occur when l try to play HD content on my VLC player through the laptop, which is connected to the tv via HDMI. l get picture but no audio. But then l find that not only does this knock out all audio for my computer, including internet, but it does the same to my other HDMI devices as well (xbox, playstation 3). l then have to reboot the tv in order to get audio back. This never happens with anything else, such as blu-rays or games, only the VLC player. At first l thought it was a problem with the computer connection, until l realized it was affecting all HDMI devices. PLEASE help...

I know I have the other model 73740 yet the people in this thread helped me make my decision on DLP vs LED. SO thanks! It is pure beauty. Movies, Games, TV are all fantastic. I'm awaiting 1.4 hdmi cables from a shipment so I have contented myself with 1080P at 60hz refresh and no 3D for now but this was definitely worth the investment. I immediately flashed the firmware and throttled back the sharpness. For a grand these are a steal.

Well, the main board didn't arrive from MITS on time so the repair company rescheduled for today 3/30/2012.

The replacement only took about 15 minutes and the TV popped back on but everything was still PURPLE.
Repair guy called MITS and got the codes to restore the light engine and geometry from the backup. After the restore everything was back to normal.

The version on the new board was 13.05 so he updated it to 13.06 and so far everything is perfect.

someone in another thread had a very similar problem.

Hey guys, a question I'm hoping someone has the answer to. I have a power strip that the TV is connected to. Usually I turn the switch off when I'm not using the TV. Today it when I turned on the TV it got stuck at the welcome screen. Really scared me but turned out okay after I unplugged the TV and restarted. The question is, does turning the power strip off every night damage the TV (I do wait until after the "cool down" process is completed). Thanks!

YES WAIT FOR THE COOL DOWN TO COMPLETE. The cool down sequence is designed to properly cool the lamp, but there may be other things that happen as well, such as storing "last used, last setting" information.

By the way the TV uses less than one watt while in the full sleep standby mode.

Good to know.

Still loving it, except for the Put on your glasses message, they really need to give an option to disable that crap.

Hey, question for the keener eyes around here.

Has anyone else noticed that this set is HORRIBLE at handling upressing/interlaced footage?

No --- I'm not gonna start another campaign about it, lol... It only affects the least important footage possible (standard def tv -- which is basically kid shows for my 4 yr old). But I've noticed INSANE amounts of interlacing artifacts.

Curious if anyone else has noticed this, or if maybe my cable box needs to be replaced or something. It's weird, my cable box is set to only output 480p/720p/1080i. So there shouldn't be all that much work for the set to be doing.