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2011 Mitsubishi DLP WD-73640 official thread - Page 6

post #151 of 1870
Well I went ahead and got the 73640, i didn't get to see one but I did see a 83738 and WOW the 92".

The 83738 looked great but needed to be adjusted, it was on Briliant with stock settings and the contrast looked cranked

Now I just have to wait a couple weeks for it to get here.
post #152 of 1870
Thanks DRaven72 I totally missed that.... Signal Strength, too!!! So much better than having to go into diagnostics!! (62525)
post #153 of 1870
Hi I have a New 73640 that we just got a couple of weeks ago, has been working great, today was a unusually hot day on the central coast of CA and my son was watching TV and it just turned off, he turned it on right away and it was fine, should we be worried, has anyone experienced this?
post #154 of 1870
Make sure its 6 inches from the wall at least for cooling/venting. Yes it got hot and shut its self down. Quite normal. This happened to me my second week with this tv on a 90 degree day and I didn't have the AC on.
post #155 of 1870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jan J View Post

Thanks DRaven72 I totally missed that.... Signal Strength, too!!! So much better than having to go into diagnostics!! (62525)

hehe, no problem. I actually stumbled upon that button by accident. Rolled over on the remote, was like "How the hell did I just get the status info on there?"

post #156 of 1870
First real issue for me watching football today. Players all looked great, scoreboard/ticker, and ESPN logo all looked crystal clear. But my god don't look at the field. It was blurring together. Like the lens lost focus or couldn't show the grass itself. Smearing is the word I am looking for. It would get focused on part of the field then some of it wouldn't be, just a green smear. Anyone else see this "out of focus" look? I will watch my Lions today and see how it looks. If it still loses focus, guess I will be on the phone Monday.
post #157 of 1870
13.04 firmware is up...:-)
post #158 of 1870
Yep and it fixed the Judder! Sweet!
post #159 of 1870
I just saw that 13.04 firmware is on the Mits site for 73640...
I did not see any fix history... anyone find out what it fixes?

DRaven72, I see your post on Judder... Can you describe what it fixes in greater detail?

I'm at 13.03 now
post #160 of 1870
Smoother picture in 3D, fast scenes in Avatar use to seem like a quick blur with a stutter, it didn't "feel" right to the eyes. Everything is smooth and fluid now. Same thing with the movie Tangled, it felt like it would stutter in action scenes or couldn't keep up with the scene. All is well now!

I have only enough time this morning to test those two movies and haven't seen an effect on anything else right now. Will test some more later.
post #161 of 1870
13.04 installed here... No issues...
post #162 of 1870
Just scheduled a delivery of a wd-73640 from CompUsa and am upgrading from a Sony rear projection 60".

Being on the cautious side, I went online to order a replacement bulb to have onhand for a backup but was unable to locate any.

I tried the Mitsubishi parts site - no joy.

I tried the site where I had been ordering my Sony bulbs - no joy.

Then tried a Google search - no joy.

According to the downloaded manual the bulb number is 915B455011 and is used by these models:
WD-73640
WD-73C11
WD-73CA1

Has anyone been able to locate a supplier yet?
post #163 of 1870
^ or maybe a generic alternative to the 915B455011 ?
post #164 of 1870
I suspect that Mitsubishi is not yet selling the lamps to the public. Most of the TVs come with a one year warranty on the lamp so Mitsubishi does not need to rush into selling the lamps during the period of time that the lamp is under their warranty.
post #165 of 1870
I'm a second DLP owner... First one took 2 years before you could get one outside of Mitsubishi....
I got mine from MCM... I checked a couple months ago, and nothing yet....
I bought a 5 year Warranty with 2 replacement lamps... basically for the price of the lamps....
post #166 of 1870
I called Mitsubishi support and got a couple of answers.

1. 915B455011 is the correct part number.
2. The price from them (according to the rep) is $95, includes lamp and housing.
3. The website hadn't been updated with the WD-73640 because the TV was just released a couple of months ago and no-one should need a bulb yet.
post #167 of 1870
Do the 640's have a glossy or matte screen? What about the 740's/840's? Couldn't find this info on the Mitsubishi website.
post #168 of 1870
Only the 82 and 92 840's have the higher contrast screen.
post #169 of 1870
So the 82740 still has the matt screen then? I would love to see how that looks compared to the 840's.
post #170 of 1870
So how does the 3D work on this TV? DO you still have to have the separate adapter box with the HDMI connections? I noticed there is a "3D emitter" port on the back of the TV, what is this for?
post #171 of 1870
My WD-73640 was delivered today.

My own personal observations..

For the size, the tv is surprising light. The 58" HP DLP that it replaced was heavier.
I like that the base of the tv which it sits on is a smaller footprint than the tv itself.
Picture is great.
3D is impressive, but seems to depend on what you're watching. Some things probably weren't ever intended for 3D so all you really get is depth, where as other things you actually get stuff coming out into the room with you.
The automatic 3D setting one works on one of my HDMI sources, but I suspect it's due to a crappy HDMI cable. Need some nicer ones.
The menu is very visually simplistic. Some may like it that way, I think it looks a little cheap.
Lots of advanced picture settings that I haven't messed with yet.
The sound absolutely sucks in my opinion on this set out of the tv speakers. I never needed a dedicated audio system with the HP this replaced, but I'll be shopping for an inexpensive home theater system tomorrow to run the audio through. Tried playing with all the settings (limited) and never could get satisfactory sound.
The remote "feels" cheap. I think because I can hear the batteries rattle when moving the remote around.

All in all for what I paid for it, I'm happy with the purchase.
post #172 of 1870
Quote:
Originally Posted by jowens1126 View Post

So the 82740 still has the matt screen then? I would love to see how that looks compared to the 840's.

Have asked as well several times before if anyone has seen these together and if so what are the differences. Since I believe that the clear contrast screen is the only difference would be especially interested in thoughts about picture brightness and contrast. Anyone?
post #173 of 1870
Quote:
Originally Posted by rocko1290 View Post

So how does the 3D work on this TV? DO you still have to have the separate adapter box with the HDMI connections? I noticed there is a "3D emitter" port on the back of the TV, what is this for?

No, in the new models, you do not need the separate adapter (keep in mind adapter and emitter do not mean the same thing) for any of the "mandatory" HDMI 4.1a 3D formats. The TV converts the 3D signals internally via direct HDMI connection. In older models this had to be done outside of the TV - that was the job of the adapter.

However you still need Active Shutter 3D glasses and a method to synchronize the glasses. The emitter plug is used to connect the synchronization emitter that match the brand of Active Shutter glasses you select to purchase. This is for glasses that use IR sync signals or RF sync signals and have their own protocols and emitter. The emitter and the glasses must match in protocols. The TV also supports DLP Link Active Shutter 3D glasses that use a special flash between the left-eye view and the right-eye view of each frame to sycn the glasses. The TV puts the flash in the picture so a separate emitter is not required.

SOME (not all, not the WD-73640) of the new models also have an IR emitter built-in as well. However not all IR based Active Shutter glasses use the same protocol so Mitsubishi provides the emitter jack so you can select the type of glasses you like best and are not confined only to Mitsubishi supplied glasses.
post #174 of 1870
Quote:
Originally Posted by ordo View Post

Have asked as well several times before if anyone has seen these together and if so what are the differences. Since I believe that the clear contrast screen is the only difference would be especially interested in thoughts about picture brightness and contrast. Anyone?

Buddy you have to actually start reading these threads. People have taken pictures, posted thoughts on it, settings, etc... all in the 740/840 and the 92" CES show thread. Not going to keep being redundant with the same info on a per post basis. If anything, go to a store that carries them near you and do an analysis yourself.
post #175 of 1870
Someone please tell me if I'm understanding this correctly:

The new line of Mitsubishi DLP's (including the 640 series) have 3D built-in, meaning you do not need a 3D adapter (converter box), but you do still need a 3D emitter (the small tear drop-shaped device that plugs into the back of the TV in the port labeled "3D emitter). Correct?

This means that the new line of TV's can accept several formats of 3D rather than checkerboard format only and thus require no 3D adapter. Yes?

I would like to upgrade to one of the new TV's with the 3D built in, but I'm trying to determine exactly what this means. My concern is that I am getting a terrible amount of lag now with my WD-65C9 (which requires the 3D adapter box) and I was told that this external adapter is what causes the lag. Hopefully if I sell my current TV (which I'm extremely happy with otherwise) and upgrade to one of the new models, it will get rid of my lag.

Another question, how is the picture quality on the new models compared to the old?

Thanks for any help...
post #176 of 1870
Just took my PS3 up to Conn's and connected it to a WD-73640. I was trying to determine if my 3D adapter box which is required for viewing 3D material was the source of the horrible gaming lag I was experiencing. The short answer: yes. However, upon connecting my PS3 directly to the 640, and connecting the 3D emitter (not adapter) as well, the 3D quality was absolutely terrible. The overall quality was not nearly the same as what I currently get at home. The depth just wasn't the same, there was crosstalk, the text was virtually unreadable, it almost made you feel like you're going cross-eyed, and overall just did not look or feel right (my girlfriend and I both agreed on all this). I tried all of the several 3D modes within the TV and all of them had the same terrible result. However, I did not experience nearly the lag as I do now, so that answered the question of whether or not the gaming lag was caused by the 3D adapter box. So I went ahead and connected the PS3 to the 640 thru the 3D adapter box as I currently do with my WD-65C9, and WOW what a huge difference. The 3D quality blew away what I saw without the use of the 3D adapter box. Consequently, of course, the lag returned. So now it is a question of lag vs. low quality and I'm opting for the lag (it was that much of a terrible difference). Does anyone have any sort of explanation for this? Is there some kind of setting I was missing? The "DLP Link" setting was set to "off", I changed it to "standard" and it made no difference. (There was also some other setting, can't remember what it was called but it had something to do with 3D and it was set to "standard" by default with additional "reverse" and "off" options). Has anyone compared the older 3D-ready models with the new ones which have the 3D built in? I guess perhaps I could've tried switching the 3D mode within the adapter itself but for some reason I'm doubting this would've made a difference.

I still need to try having the PS3 output only 720p in 3D rather than 1080p to see if perhaps the upscaling is causing the lag. Can't quite figure out how to make this work though. There doesn't seem to be a way to set the PS3 to output only 720p without turning off the 3D. In the "display settings", if I go to custom settings, I can adjust the ps3 to output only 720p, and this gives me no option to enable 3D, and it turns 3D off. If I go to automatic, it automatically detects that I have a 3D TV, asks for my screen size, and automatically sets the output resolution to all that my TV supports (including 1080i/p). Is there an upconversion setting somewhere I'm missing that I should turn off? Playing Killzone 3 in 3D, I press the info button on my TV remote which confirmed that the source signal is being output in 1080p.

I've also tried the gaming mode on my TV to no success.

Any help or input appreciated.
post #177 of 1870
Quote:
Originally Posted by rocko1290 View Post

Someone please tell me if I'm understanding this correctly:

The new line of Mitsubishi DLP's (including the 640 series) have 3D built-in, meaning you do not need a 3D adapter (converter box), but you do still need a 3D emitter (the small tear drop-shaped device that plugs into the back of the TV in the port labeled "3D emitter). Correct?

This means that the new line of TV's can accept several formats of 3D rather than checkerboard format only and thus require no 3D adapter. Yes?

I would like to upgrade to one of the new TV's with the 3D built in, but I'm trying to determine exactly what this means. My concern is that I am getting a terrible amount of lag now with my WD-65C9 (which requires the 3D adapter box) and I was told that this external adapter is what causes the lag. Hopefully if I sell my current TV (which I'm extremely happy with otherwise) and upgrade to one of the new models, it will get rid of my lag.

Another question, how is the picture quality on the new models compared to the old?

Thanks for any help...

Pretty much answered my own questions here, really except for the 2D picture quality comparison in the new vs. old models.
post #178 of 1870
No you didn't. It has been posted in both the 840 thread and this one. What are you not understanding about not needing an adaptor or emitter? Its on the reference guides for all of these TV's and is posted in the specs. Its called DLP LINK, which is a signal the TV itself sends out on screen to do 3D. And taking your PS3 to a store where the TV wasn't setup correctly for it, was a waste of time. On these tv's, you go into the menu, turn 3d to automatic, over to DLP LINK, turn on. Exit. Most that I know have used DLP LINK now. Some DLP LINK glasses leave a slight green tint in dark scenes, like the True Depth glasses, and then there is the Optoma ZD101's where it comes out perfect. Also, I thought Mitsubishi had a different IR code this years models and only certain pairs of glasses made this year work with the new sets. (pretty sure about that)

Also there are articles/threads all over here about gaming on these TV's. I think people are a little worn out with a new thread/questions every week and why you are not getting the response from others here.
post #179 of 1870
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRaven72 View Post

No you didn't. It has been posted in both the 840 thread and this one. What are you not understanding about not needing an adaptor or emitter? Its on the reference guides for all of[ these TV's and is posted in the specs. Its called DLP LINK, which is a signal the TV itself sends out on screen to do 3D.

How did I not? Did you read both of my posts?:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocko1290 View Post

The new line of Mitsubishi DLP's (including the 640 series) have 3D built-in, meaning you do not need a 3D adapter (converter box), but you do still need a 3D emitter (the small tear drop-shaped device that plugs into the back of the TV in the port labeled "3D emitter). Correct?

I determined this myself by testing it out at Conn's.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocko1290 View Post

This means that the new line of TV's can accept several formats of 3D rather than checkerboard format only and thus require no 3D adapter. Yes?

Same thing here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocko1290 View Post

I would like to upgrade to one of the new TV's with the 3D built in, but I'm trying to determine exactly what this means. My concern is that I am getting a terrible amount of lag now with my WD-65C9 (which requires the 3D adapter box) and I was told that this external adapter is what causes the lag. Hopefully if I sell my current TV (which I'm extremely happy with otherwise) and upgrade to one of the new models, it will get rid of my lag.

Figured out that the 3D adapter box was indeed the cause of the lag.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocko1290 View Post

Another question, how is the picture quality on the new models compared to the old?

This was the only question that went somewhat unanswered.

Did you miss all of this somewhere along the line?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DRaven72 View Post

And taking your PS3 to a store where the TV wasn't setup correctly for it, was a waste of time.

Wasn't set up correctly? How so? Waste of time? Why? I answered all of my own questions!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DRaven72 View Post

On these tv's, you go into the menu, turn 3d to automatic, over to DLP LINK, turn on. Exit.

Mhmm, check, yes, did all that, you know, with the remote that they had there. Remind me again why it was a waste of time?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DRaven72 View Post

Most that I know have used DLP LINK now. Some DLP LINK glasses leave a slight green tint in dark scenes, like the True Depth glasses, and then there is the Optoma ZD101's where it comes out perfect. Also, I thought Mitsubishi had a different IR code this years models and only certain pairs of glasses made this year work with the new sets. (pretty sure about that)

Thanks for the info, this is the only useful part of your post to me or anyone. My current glasses worked fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DRaven72 View Post

Also there are articles/threads all over here about gaming on these TV's.

Surely it's obvious I haven't found anything of such otherwise why would I be here?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DRaven72 View Post

I think people are a little worn out with a new thread/questions every week and why you are not getting the response from others here.

Speak for yourself bud. That was unnecessary. There's no need for your ignorant posts, let alone a virtually useless post at all. For one thing, my recent posts contain new information that my old posts don't which could be helpful to somebody. Thought some people may like to know that the 3D quality on the older DLP's is much better, but that's only an inference from my observations thus far, which is why I posted and would like to discuss it. Pretty sure that's the purpose of this whole forum regardless, people helping others and discussing things. You could've just left it alone. Perhaps you're just a little irritated cause you're up too early.

Have a nice day champ
post #180 of 1870
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRaven72 View Post

Buddy you have to actually start reading these threads. People have taken pictures, posted thoughts on it, settings, etc... all in the 740/840 and the 92" CES show thread. Not going to keep being redundant with the same info on a per post basis. If anything, go to a store that carries them near you and do an analysis yourself.

It's not always convenient for someone to sit down and read a whole thread, especially one of this length. Some people (unlike many on this forum, it seems) have a life outside of home theater, including school, other hobbies, work, etc. that keeps them busy. Sometimes you just need a quick answer and it's nice to have people there who are willing and able.

EDIT* Guess this thread isn't horribly long (there are much longer ones out there), but it would still require a significant amount of time to read.
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