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2011 Mitsubishi DLP WD-73640 official thread - Page 55

post #1621 of 1870
Prior set was LCOS ( 3 x 1920 x 1080 )
post #1622 of 1870
How would I find out if the below glasses work with the 2011 Mitsubishi 3D sets, such as the 73640?

http://www.icemonkey.com/nextgen-uni...-on-one-charge
post #1623 of 1870
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrettStah View Post

How would I find out if the below glasses work with the 2011 Mitsubishi 3D sets, such as the 73640?

http://www.icemonkey.com/nextgen-uni...-on-one-charge

To use those you would need to buy a separate emitter to plug into the back of your TV. Would recommend DLP Link instead as no emitter is required. The DLP link glasses most seem to agree work best are the Optoma ZD101's
post #1624 of 1870
Quote:
Originally Posted by stangmaster98 View Post

So just an update if this happens to anyone.

Most likely during shipping and no fault of the TV the DLP chip can get dislodged and cause the screen to show white lines running up and down the screen about an inch apart and inch wide. Mitsu does not want to take a chance of something else being messed up so the tech is ordering the whole light assembly and will be installed next week. I hope all goes well ...

TV repaired !!! New Light Engine installed under warranty ! The old one was damaged during delivery and i noticed a huge difference right away ! I used Advance Setting that was posted in this thread and the picture looks awesome ! I cant wait till i get around 100 hours on it !

Also on a side note the new light engine was a different design then the old and the repair man said looks like an updated design ... Hmmm

Anyways so far so good !! And i want to say thanks again to everyone the post on here its been very helpful
post #1625 of 1870
Stupid NOOBy question. How do I get True Depth 3d glasses to work? The fact that I misplaced the small instruction paper doesn't help. Can someone post the steps to get 3d to work on the set with these glasses? TIA.
post #1626 of 1870
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoSlicker007 View Post

Stupid NOOBy question. How do I get True Depth 3d glasses to work? The fact that I misplaced the small instruction paper doesn't help. Can someone post the steps to get 3d to work on the set with these glasses? TIA.

Since you do not indicate if you have DLP Link or IR glasses from True Depth it is hard to give specific replies here. However if you have the DLP Link type of glasses, make sure you have DLP Link turned on in the TV 3D Menu.

For more assistance maybe they can help you here:
http://truedepth3d.com/
post #1627 of 1870
It is DLP link.. The older version with non-rechargeable battery. Their site doesnt have any instructions/faqs
post #1628 of 1870
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoSlicker007 View Post

It is DLP link.. The older version with non-rechargeable battery. Their site doesnt have any instructions/faqs

Make sure DLP link is turned on in tv menu 3D settings
post #1629 of 1870
post #1630 of 1870
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoSlicker007 View Post

It is DLP link.. The older version with non-rechargeable battery. Their site doesnt have any instructions/faqs

The web site has extensive "support" section where you ask questions via a forum stile site and they assist via that site.
post #1631 of 1870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Empirical View Post

2012:
http://www.twice.com/article/485244-...on_TV_Line.php

Much different? meh

I am wondering what FullHD on the 742/842/A96 means? We not getting full 3D HD on previous year models? Notice its not on the 642 series? Hmmm.....
post #1632 of 1870
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRaven72 View Post

I am wondering what FullHD on the 742/842/A96 means? We not getting full 3D HD on previous year models? Notice its not on the 642 series? Hmmm.....

the way I thought it was and what I found out on the net are: "Sometimes referred to in marketing materials as Full HD, 1080p typically refers to the capability to accept 1080p signal and display it with native resolution of at least 1080 lines, as well as the capability to upscale lower-resolution material to 1080p"

now the new Full HD 3D Glasses is a attempt to Standardize on one protocol This way we can take our glasses over to friends tv that is compliant... this should get lots of players in the game and the prices of the glasses lowered. The big MFG's have signed on... search the net for the press leases..

now off to work on those 4 73640's I got for a steel of a price.

P.S. WOW I have done a lot of reading but not much posting... sorry.. I will try to do better
post #1633 of 1870
"Mitsubishi Electric Visual Solutions America recently began shipping its 2012 rear-projection FullHD DLP Home Cinema TV lineup."

They are all "Full" HD of course DRAVEN you know there is 1080P and there is wobulated 1080P
post #1634 of 1870
post #1635 of 1870




Last year's models said the same thing.

Quote:


2D & 3D in Full HD 1080p

http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/tv/WD-73740 Shown on the right side under "Video Display"
post #1636 of 1870
Ok so I'm confused (big shocker there)

I just ordered the Mitsubishi WD-7340 73"

What I read it that is uses the "checkerboard" format and to keep from buying the Mitsubishi 3D adapter kit, I could get a Panasonic 3d Blu-Ray system that outputs in checkerboard format (which I did - DMP-BDT220)
I also ordered 3 active shutter glasses - http://www.3dglassesunlimited.com/universal-3d-glasses-by-blick-active-shutter-ir-p-380.html
and an emitter - http://www.3dglassesunlimited.com/high-power-3d-ir-emitter-for-mitsubishi-samsung-dlp-p-382.html

so where did I go wrong (or overboard) here? Could I have used a standard 3d blu-ray system? other glasses? no emitter? etc?

thanks!
post #1637 of 1870
The TV has DLP Link built in so the other route you could have taken was to buy DLP Link glasses, they require no emitter.
post #1638 of 1870
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcibrando View Post

Ok so I'm confused (big shocker there)
I just ordered the Mitsubishi WD-7340 73"
What I read it that is uses the "checkerboard" format and to keep from buying the Mitsubishi 3D adapter kit, I could get a Panasonic 3d Blu-Ray system that outputs in checkerboard format (which I did - DMP-BDT220)
I also ordered 3 active shutter glasses - http://www.3dglassesunlimited.com/universal-3d-glasses-by-blick-active-shutter-ir-p-380.html
and an emitter - http://www.3dglassesunlimited.com/high-power-3d-ir-emitter-for-mitsubishi-samsung-dlp-p-382.html
so where did I go wrong (or overboard) here? Could I have used a standard 3d blu-ray system? other glasses? no emitter? etc?
thanks!

The checkerboard 3D adapter is not needed.  It was for older  (pre-2010?) sets.  Any Bluray3D player will work.

post #1639 of 1870
I am closing in on buying one of 73" Mitsu models for PC 3D gaming. I started reading this thread and others (did search too) but there's little info on PC gaming. Is this the right model for 3D in 60hz per eye 1080p? I don't see d-dvi inputs listed, but people say it does 3D in 60hz 1080p somehow, is this true? They have even more basic C11/C12 models too, I don't understand the difference. Which model do I need? I'd like the cheapest possible to do the job. Just for PC gaming.

Some of the options on 642/742/842 that C12 don't have:
- 3DTV (VESA Jack and DLP Link)
- Full HD 3D Glasses™ RF Compatible
- PerfectColor™
- PerfectTint™
- ISFccc® Advanced Video Adjustments
- Remote PC Desktop - VNC
- Advanced Video Calibration
- 2D + Depth

Any of these crucial to 3D gaming?

Also, will I need Nvidia 3dVision with this?
post #1640 of 1870
so I don't have to set my panasonic 3d blu-ray for "checkerboard" format? I read somewhere that if I didn't have one of the 3d checkerboard adapters (and just the pany blu-ray) that nothing else would work in 3d. Is that no longer true and the tv doesn't use the checkerboard format anymore?
post #1641 of 1870
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcibrando View Post

so I don't have to set my panasonic 3d blu-ray for "checkerboard" format? I read somewhere that if I didn't have one of the 3d checkerboard adapters (and just the pany blu-ray) that nothing else would work in 3d. Is that no longer true and the tv doesn't use the checkerboard format anymore?

The checkerboard 3D adapter is not needed.  It was for older  (pre-2010?) sets.  Any Bluray3D player will work.  The TV uses checkerboard to display 3D, but it will accept all the required formats without the adapter.

 

 

http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/asset/file/spec_sheet/specsheet-640.pdf

Quote:

Mitsubishi 3D TVs will support the mandatory HDMI 1.4a 3D signals and a few optional 3D signals intended for the United

States. Specifically, the TVs will support 3D signals known as Frame Packing 1080p @ 24Hz and 720p @ 60Hz (primarily

from Blu-ray players and gaming consoles), Side-by-side in 1080i @ 60Hz, 1080p @24Hz, 30Hz, 60Hz and 720p @ 60Hz,

Top/Bottom in 1080p @ 24Hz and 720p @ 60Hz and Checkerboard in 1080p @ 60Hz. However, there may be some 3D

sources that are not compatible with Mitsubishi TVs.

 

post #1642 of 1870
Just received this set today. First thing I tried was the 3D, turned checkerboard on in the tv and the Panny BDT320 player. Wow it's a thing of beauty. I bought the refurb from Tiger and can't see a thing wrong, it's got firmware 13.05 already installed. So far really pleased.
post #1643 of 1870
hi all, it's almost been a year of having 73640. I am extremely happy. It is updated to the 13.06. And very few complaints. All i hope for is long trouble free life..an got a new bulb on the way.....3D is fun... and worth buying the movies for the same price as a night at the theater...
post #1644 of 1870
Quote:
Originally Posted by zippo775 View Post

Just received this set today. First thing I tried was the 3D, turned checkerboard on in the tv and the Panny BDT320 player. Wow it's a thing of beauty. I bought the refurb from Tiger and can't see a thing wrong, it's got firmware 13.05 already installed. So far really pleased.

The latest firmware is version 13.06 http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/support/documents/WD-73640
post #1645 of 1870
I updated to 13.06, any idea what this update was for? Also I have zero bowing or any of the bleeding issues, did the recent updates fix these. I've read the thread, but don't recall the final outcome and don't feel like back-tracking. Thanks.
Edited by zippo775 - 6/11/12 at 7:29am
post #1646 of 1870
Quote:
Originally Posted by zippo775 View Post

I updated to 13.06, any idea what this update was for? Also I have zero bowing or any of the bleeding issues, did the recent updates fix these. I've read the thread, but don't recall the final outcome and don't feel like back-tracking. Thanks.

I didn't feel like backtracking either rolleyes.gif.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1397654/mitsubishi-defect-in-2011-dlp-sets-fix

Don't forget to read the manual.
post #1647 of 1870
Thanks
post #1648 of 1870
I have a Logitech Harmony 700 remote and I'm annoyed that I have to press the activity button twice to get it to switch to a different input from the last one used when the TV was turned off. My sequence is something like this: Press Watch TV, TV, avr, etc turn on, avr switches to the right input, blue Mitsubishi screen, wait for blue screen to go away, TV is on last input like HDMI 1, press Watch TV again and TV switches to Ant. It appears the TV won't recognize switching direct inputs until after the blue Mitsubishi screen (which I'm guessing is a warm up phase for the bulb) but I haven't tested it too much. Is there a way around this besides telling the Harmony to delay the input switching for whatever the duration of the blue Mits screen? Or is the Harmony sending the input command too fast after the TV turns on and it can be switched during the blue Mits screen?
post #1649 of 1870
The TV cannot accept input command until after the boot up period. Yes the blub is warming up but the microprocessor is also booting up just like a computer. If you always want to start at the same input, why don't you program your remote to switch to that input before it sends the power down command. That way that same input is always the last used input - don't forget to put in a slight delay between input switch and power down so the TV has completed the switch before it powers down.
post #1650 of 1870
Ah ok. It's not a big deal, it mostly just gets my impatient 5 year old frustrated.
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