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2011 Mitsubishi DLP WD-73640 official thread - Page 60

post #1771 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by yadfgp View Post

NP! biggrin.gif
Word of caution though... The picture of the bulb listed is not the correct picture. When I got my bulb in I freaked out at first when I noticed that the bulb pictured is not the same bulb they sent me. So at first I thought they sent me the wrong bulb. But then I opened up the back of my TV to get the old bulb out, and sure enough, they did send me the correct bulb. They just have the wrong picture listed on amazon. redface.gif

Good info --- thanks again.

One word of caution: When we were dealing with the red color decoding issues with this set and I had repair guys coming to the house... I was talking with one of them about how my JVC set from 2007 kept getting 'the green blob' (a very common problem on the set, and the reason why I bought this Mits) and asked him if there ever was an official reason given by JVC. He said that the 3rd party lamps created more heat then the 'official' Philips lamp, which lead to burning of a certain part inside the TV.

Of course, blaming the competition could just be JVC propaganda --- lord knows these companies are not honest with us unless they absolutely have to be... and I'm pretty sure 'the green blob' happened to me before I ever replaced my factory lamp... but just something to think about.
post #1772 of 1871
Anyone having any problems with their Mits remote? Mine still lights up when i push any button but nothing happens. Ive changed the batteries, stood 8 inches from the tv, ect.. My cable universal works fine, but the input function doesnt work. The input would work with a different remote code but then the navigation arrows and enter button dont work...LOL, I guess i could put one code under VCR to be able to to change inputs and use all the other working features under TV. So now that I've basically solved my problem I'm still wondering if anyone else has had this problem or if its just me?
post #1773 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by HotShade View Post

Anyone having any problems with their Mits remote? Mine still lights up when i push any button but nothing happens. Ive changed the batteries, stood 8 inches from the tv, ect.. My cable universal works fine, but the input function doesnt work. The input would work with a different remote code but then the navigation arrows and enter button dont work...LOL, I guess i could put one code under VCR to be able to to change inputs and use all the other working features under TV. So now that I've basically solved my problem I'm still wondering if anyone else has had this problem or if its just me?
I've had that happen before on a Pioneer receiver remote. Not on the Mits. Try taking the batteries out for a while. Next I'd try a basic reset on your TV, by holding the power button on the TV for several seconds.
post #1774 of 1871
Try these:
1. Top of the remote press TV first.
Then try other operations.
2. Press and hold POWER until the light under the power key flashes twice.
Then in sequence press 0, 0, 0, 0, 0 (resets the remote).

Your cable box remote will never operate the arrow keys for your TV. The arrow keys on the cable box remote are always cable box only functions regardless of the remote's operational mode. TV functions are only POWER, VOLUME, MUTE and INPUT but as you noticed, on the cable remote INPUT is useless because the arrow keys don't work the TV.

By the way if the TV remote power key flashes 4 - 5 times when you use any key, this is the battery low indication.
post #1775 of 1871
so i got the ir emitter on amazon and the sony ps3 3d glasses on amazon and looks great if not better than my uncles plasma 3d tv. any tips to make experience better or should i just enjoy.
post #1776 of 1871
didnt have to reply but if this info helps someone like me than the sony ps3 glasses for 26bucks work but you need the 25dollar emitter
post #1777 of 1871
okay quick question about 3d. source from ps3 is great but when i use computer vlc player to play 3d movie and select side by side on tv. the 3d is good but on the right and left of the edge of the tv is blurry when i close one eye to see one image it is not full screen black bar on left and as well for the right.
post #1778 of 1871
I'm not sure how you have your PC setup but for 3D to work properly (even SBS) you have to make sure you don't have overscan compensation on for it to look right.
post #1779 of 1871
just using vlc player with default settings, will check that or look for that compensation option and turn it off. thanks for the reply
post #1780 of 1871
i get it now, i found the settings under my video card settings and now the blurry borders are gone. thanks
post #1781 of 1871
What code did you use to make the input button on the cable remote work ?
post #1782 of 1871
Hey guys,

With the WD-73640, only video coming into the TV from an HDMI cable can be viewed on 3D?

I have the old Xbox 360(the white one with no HDMI). It is connected directly to the TV by compenent(Green, Blue, Red, plus 2 audiot wires, or something like that).I believe I cannot view 3D from anything being played on the Xbox 360.

Thanks.

PS: If anyone recently bought a good deal on 3D glasses for this TV please post links.
post #1783 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellagrant View Post

Hey guys,
With the WD-73640, only video coming into the TV from an HDMI cable can be viewed on 3D?
I have the old Xbox 360(the white one with no HDMI). It is connected directly to the TV by compenent(Green, Blue, Red, plus 2 audiot wires, or something like that).I believe I cannot view 3D from anything being played on the Xbox 360.
Thanks.
PS: If anyone recently bought a good deal on 3D glasses for this TV please post links.

Yeah the TV will only do 3D over HDMI. I have an older 360 like you with component only and I just tried it. Even though the 360 does SBS 3D the TV won't go into 3D mode over component. Lame... I understand for Frame Packing or Checkerboard 3D we would need HDMI but SBS or Top & Bottom 3D we don't need HDMI.

As far as cheap 3D Glasses go you missed out on Black Friday deals on Amazon having the PS3 Glasses (they are compatible with the IR emitter) for $20 a pair. You might still be able to find them at a Best Buy for $30. It looks like they were discontinued so they might be hard to find now. :/
post #1784 of 1871
Thanks.

I might pick up a newer xbox 360 then.

Of course I missed the good sale!!
post #1785 of 1871
sony ps3 3d glasses work great too. quick question does our tv do 120 frames per second is their a way to enable that or is it just a 60hz tv only thanks
post #1786 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by busterg View Post

sony ps3 3d glasses work great too. quick question does our tv do 120 frames per second is their a way to enable that or is it just a 60hz tv only thanks

The Sony PS3 glasses work with TVs that have a built in IR emitter or with most external IR emitters (that are connected to the TV by the end user). However the PS3 glasses do not come with external IR emitters to connect to the TVs and the Mitsubishi 640 series TVs do not have internal IR emitters. If you have a 640 model and you want to use the PS3 glasses you will also need to get an IR emitter separately.

The TV shows 120 Sub-frames per second. A sub-frame is 1/2 of the pixels of a full frame arranged in a checkerboard pattern. In 2D, the1st sub-frame pixels are the "red" squares in checkerboard description. The 2nd sub-frame pixels are the "black" squares. It takes 2 sub-frames to equal 1 full frame in 2D so the TV is working at refreshing the screen (changing what is displayed) at 120Hz but only showing 60Hz (frames per second) in video frames. In 3D the 1st sub-frame is information for the left eye while the 2nd sub-frame is information for the right eye. The active shutter glasses switch which eye can see in sync with the sub-frames so the glasses switch at 120Hz but each eye can see the screen only 60 times a second.

It should be noted that the incoming 3D signals required by HDMI can only be 24 frames-per-second, Frame Packing 1080p, Side-by-side 1080p (an optional format in the first place) and Top/Bottom 1080p or 60 frames per second, Frame Packing 720p, Side-by-side 720p (again an optional format) and Top/Bottom 720p, and Checkerboard 1080p (not a required format). At 1080i 60Hz interlaced, the Side-by-side (the only required SBS format) will also be accepted. While HDMI does have additional 3D formats specified, these are all optional and not currently supported by any source device and few of these signals are supported by displays.

There are very few consumer intended sources of 120Hz video - 2D or 3D, mostly computers. Most displays that accept 120Hz signals are not TVs (have internal tuners) but are Video Projectors and Monitors only. Most TVs that display at 120Hz do not accept signals at 120Hz; they accept 24Hz and 60Hz and convert the signals to 120Hz or multiples of 120 Hz.
Edited by GEP - 11/26/12 at 2:12pm
post #1787 of 1871
post #1788 of 1871
HI ALL. QUESTION IS BOWING. i noticed this phenomenon on the bottom half of the left side; i have lookin an looking in this post. But no definitive answer; was wondering if anyone got knowledge of or a cut and paste.?
post #1789 of 1871
That would be your geometry, to access it you have to enter the service menu. Look for a service manual if a link is posted in this thread.
post #1790 of 1871
THANKS, and i have been there, the service geometry menu. But how to adjust what is the definitions for the buttons movement? I have moved the x cross hair but unknown of what and how.
post #1791 of 1871
The FF and REW keys move the point of correction (the cross) from one position to another.

FF moves clock wise around the edge, REW moves counter clockwise.

The arrow keys make the adjustment in each position. Note: only the corner four positions move in all four directions (no diagonal). The top and bottom edge move only up and down. The sides only move left and right.

You will NOT see the outline edges move as you make corrections, however if you move the cross and then press the INFO key you can see the results. You most likely will need to go around the edges more than once.

Once you have the edges done press VIDEO to display the 4:3 side bar alignment (the blue lines are about where the 4:3 side bars would start). You cannot adjust individual sections of the blue lines. You can only cycle through pre-sets. Press either FF or REW to cycle (you will see these changes). There are about 11 of these pre-sets and once you have seen all pre-sets you return to the original, select the one that looks best.

Press VIDEO again and you get to the horizontal top bar adjustment (top bar as in the beginning of a letter box top bar). It is a red line. Like the 4:3 screen, you cannot adjust individual sections of this line only cycle through pre-sets. Press either FF or REW to cycle (you will see these changes). And again select the best one.

Press VIDEO again and you get the center horizontal line and repeat the process.

Press VIDEO again and you get the bottom bar line, repeat the procees.

Press VIDEO one more time and you are back to the edge pattern.

You may want to touch up again because every change you make in one area can also make an unintened change in other area - everything is relative to everything else.

IMPORTANT: You MUST press ENTER to save these changes, otherwise they are lost when you exit the menus.

Once you have saved, you can the press EXIT to clear the screen.

You should also know that the factory should have already "saved to back up" their original adjustments so using the feature "recall from back up" should cancel everything you did manually.
post #1792 of 1871
THANK YOU SOOOOOO MUCH. ! and i know it discretionary to each own; or do at your own risk. BUT If you have any other tips, please share. For the fact that we own the LAST of rear projection HDTV's. like my tag reads. ILOVEMYHDTV !
post #1793 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by colour View Post

Press menu then 2-4-7-0 it's not for lamp hours it's set hours so if you replace the lamp you have to keep track of the hours since it can't be reset.


You cannot tell if you have major geometry flaws in the screen without turning off geometry correction. Which is done:

MENU, 2, 4, 5, 7 (service menu appears), 0 (another menu appears), scroll down to MANUAL GEOMETRY ALIGNMENT, ENTER (corrected geometry graph appears). Then press 1 to clear the geometry correction, and enter to save that setting or EXIT to retain the factory set correction. Or you fiddle yourself with the correction settings (I'd have to look the keys up.)

I turn mine off, and get minor outward bowing on either side, at the bottom. Off is also know as 1-to-1 pixel mapping.http://www.avsforum.com/u/8153429/thhowl




Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

The FF and REW keys move the point of correction (the cross) from one position to another.
FF moves clock wise around the edge, REW moves counter clockwise.
The arrow keys make the adjustment in each position. Note: only the corner four positions move in all four directions (no diagonal). The top and bottom edge move only up and down. The sides only move left and right.
You will NOT see the outline edges move as you make corrections, however if you move the cross and then press the INFO key you can see the results. You most likely will need to go around the edges more than once.
Once you have the edges done press VIDEO to display the 4:3 side bar alignment (the blue lines are about where the 4:3 side bars would start). You cannot adjust individual sections of the blue lines. You can only cycle through pre-sets. Press either FF or REW to cycle (you will see these changes). There are about 11 of these pre-sets and once you have seen all pre-sets you return to the original, select the one that looks best.
Press VIDEO again and you get to the horizontal top bar adjustment (top bar as in the beginning of a letter box top bar). It is a red line. Like the 4:3 screen, you cannot adjust individual sections of this line only cycle through pre-sets. Press either FF or REW to cycle (you will see these changes). And again select the best one.
Press VIDEO again and you get the center horizontal line and repeat the process.
Press VIDEO again and you get the bottom bar line, repeat the procees.
Press VIDEO one more time and you are back to the edge pattern.
You may want to touch up again because every change you make in one area can also make an unintened change in other area - everything is relative to everything else.
IMPORTANT: You MUST press ENTER to save these changes, otherwise they are lost when you exit the menus.
Once you have saved, you can the press EXIT to clear the screen.
You should also know that the factory should have already "saved to back up" their original adjustments so using the feature "recall from back up" should cancel everything you did manually.

it took me to long to find and the multi quote didn't work for me....
post #1794 of 1871
hi all. so far so good . looks A LOT better. not perfect straight, but this is no 50" hdtv.
post #1795 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by ILOVEMYHDTV View Post

You cannot tell if you have major geometry flaws in the screen without turning off geometry correction. Which is done:
MENU, 2, 4, 5, 7 (service menu appears), 0 (another menu appears), scroll down to MANUAL GEOMETRY ALIGNMENT, ENTER (corrected geometry graph appears). Then press 1 to clear the geometry correction, and enter to save that setting or EXIT to retain the factory set correction. Or you fiddle yourself with the correction settings (I'd have to look the keys up.)
I turn mine off, and get minor outward bowing on either side, at the bottom. Off is also know as 1-to-1 pixel mapping.http://www.avsforum.com/u/8153429/thhowl
it took me to long to find and the multi quote didn't work for me....
Well I just got the Disney WOW disk and when it came to Scaling, the image on the screen looked nothing like what was described. There were random looking contours all over the place, where it should have been basically gray.
I think this is a way to tell that geometry correction is being applied.
So if turn it off and go 1 to 1 pixel mapping, will the contours go away?

Also, when the scene pans quickly, I see a wave just off center to the right that is very distracting.
Edited by 69mach1-377 - 12/19/12 at 9:39am
post #1796 of 1871
Questions on 3D glasses for the WD-73640:

(1) I currently have DLP-link glasses (2 Optomas and a pair of generic Chinese kids glasses). If I were to purchase an IR-transmitter and IR glasses, could I use BOTH the DLP-link and IR glasses at the same time to watch 3D programming, or is it a matter of only being able to use one or the other?

(2) Anyone know the best DLP glasses for 3-4 year olds? The generic ones I got for my daughter are no place close to the Optomas (granted half the price).
post #1797 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by JZeld View Post

Questions on 3D glasses for the WD-73640:
(1) I currently have DLP-link glasses (2 Optomas and a pair of generic Chinese kids glasses). If I were to purchase an IR-transmitter and IR glasses, could I use BOTH the DLP-link and IR glasses at the same time to watch 3D programming, or is it a matter of only being able to use one or the other?
(2) Anyone know the best DLP glasses for 3-4 year olds? The generic ones I got for my daughter are no place close to the Optomas (granted half the price).

I'd be careful with the 3D and 3-4 yr old mix. I've seen reports that say child eye development goes up to roughly age 3, and others that say 6 years old... and 3D tech can mess with that development. Who knows what's accurate though.

Not sure about either of your actual questions though, sorry.
post #1798 of 1871
Seems like there isn't much support that it causes damage, but better safe than sorry. I'll take the chance that she can ocassionally watch a movie, especially since she only makes it through half a movie at this point anyway. (http://www.babycenter.com/404_is-it-safe-for-my-child-to-watch-3d-movies-and-video-games_10346992.bc)

Anyone know any decent younger kid 3D glasses? Not sure why, but the seller told me these Kids & Child 3D Active Shutter TV Glasses won't work.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kids-Child-3D-Active-Shutter-TV-Glasses-BenQ-MW516-DLP-LINK-3D-Projector-/400358748471
post #1799 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by 69mach1-377 View Post

Well I just got the Disney WOW disk and when it came to Scaling, the image on the screen looked nothing like what was described. There were random looking contours all over the place, where it should have been basically gray.
I think this is a way to tell that geometry correction is being applied.
So if turn it off and go 1 to 1 pixel mapping, will the contours go away?
Also, when the scene pans quickly, I see a wave just off center to the right that is very distracting.
Bump...
post #1800 of 1871
I just encountered an issue....

I'm borrowing a Matrox MXO2 unit from work....and everything seems to work correctly except the HDMI output to the Mits 73640 DLP.... I have 13.06 in the 73640...

Here is the issues....

I have the MXO2 set up for 1080i (1920x1080/29.97).... And the HDMI configuration is set (In the MXO2) as: "Same as Primary Output" (1920x1080/29.97) and YUV colorspace... And the 3D settings are turned off (MXO2 supports 3D).... I get audio out of DLP, but just a Blue Screen..

If I change the settings to: Same as Primary, YUV, and 3D Over/Under, Then I get Video, but it is scaled incorrectly and aspect ratio is also incorrect....

As far as I can tell, this is not a Copy Protection Issue (Home Video Camera footage), as when I have seen CP Kick in, it's a blue or black screen and no audio, and I get audio at all times, just no Video..

I've also tried other options (RGB Colorspace) but nothing other than "Same as Primary Output", YUV and 3D Over/Under is enabled on the Matrox. At No time did I ever select 3D on the Mitsubishi....

I'm going to call the Manufacturer tomorrow, but thought I'd post here to see if anyone has encountered this before.

????

Jan
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