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2011 Mitsubishi DLP WD-73640 official thread - Page 7

post #181 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by ordo View Post

Have asked as well several times before if anyone has seen these together and if so what are the differences. Since I believe that the clear contrast screen is the only difference would be especially interested in thoughts about picture brightness and contrast. Anyone?

Quote:


Only the 82 and 92 840's have the higher contrast screen.

Keep in mind the glossy screen can cause a significant amount of glare. I do like the overall picture better with the glossy screens, as it rids the TV of the "silk screen effect", which is slightly bothersome on my current WD-65C9. The differences in the models are probably more feature-related than picture quality related. I think we've pretty much all but reached a plateau for picture quality. I know back when I was comparing the 737/837/C9, the main differences I found were feature-wise and having little if any to do with the picture quality. Pretty much all TV's (when properly calibrated) are going to look very similar, aside for technology-inherent artifacts, such as DLP's rainbow/silk screen effect, or LCD's motion artifacts. Even at work that's how most of the TV's are, a new model comes out priced $500 higher than the last and it's all for new features (and of course a quoted slightly higher contrast ratio or picture processing gimmick).
post #182 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

No, in the new models, you do not need the separate adapter (keep in mind adapter and emitter do not mean the same thing) for any of the "mandatory" HDMI 4.1a 3D formats. The TV converts the 3D signals internally via direct HDMI connection. In older models this had to be done outside of the TV - that was the job of the adapter.

However you still need Active Shutter 3D glasses and a method to synchronize the glasses. The emitter plug is used to connect the synchronization emitter that match the brand of Active Shutter glasses you select to purchase. This is for glasses that use IR sync signals or RF sync signals and have their own protocols and emitter. The emitter and the glasses must match in protocols. The TV also supports DLP Link Active Shutter 3D glasses that use a special flash between the left-eye view and the right-eye view of each frame to sycn the glasses. The TV puts the flash in the picture so a separate emitter is not required.

SOME (not all, not the WD-73640) of the new models also have an IR emitter built-in as well. However not all IR based Active Shutter glasses use the same protocol so Mitsubishi provides the emitter jack so you can select the type of glasses you like best and are not confined only to Mitsubishi supplied glasses.

Sorry bud, didn't see your post earlier. I appreciate your help. Hmm, which kind of glasses are best? I just have the glasses that came with the 3DA-1 3D starter kit and it came with the emitter in the box so I'd assume it's required for their use, and in turn assume that I do not have "DLP Link" glasses. Do they tend to be better? Can't imagine it getting much better than what I'm seeing now (well, as far as 3D depth, although the 3D mode does wash out the colors and turn the blacks a sort of green). That's one big advantage I noticed on the new models over the old, engaging the 3D mode doesn't skew the colors/blacks (at least not that I could see?) Great info man thanks for the post.
post #183 of 1871
I think I can answer several of your questions.
1. Concerning the 3D quality on the 640 – there seems to have been a software problem with 3D. From what I have seen here, Mitsubishi has released updated software for this. I think it is available from the Support section of the Mitsubishi web site. People here say it works well.
2. The 3D menu for the 640 is divided into features:
a. “Source Format” is the controls of the internal 3D adapter.
i. OFF is for no 3D even when you have a 3D signal.
ii. AUTOMATIC is for a 3D signal that matches the HDMI 1.4a standards for the Mandatory 3D signals.
iii. SIDE BY SIDE is for s-b-s 3D signals in 720p, 1080i, 1080p/24Hz, 1080p/30Hz, 1080p/60Hz signals that do not perfectly match the HDMI standards but are still available from cable boxes, satellite receivers and other sources. This is a manual setting. Also any 3D signal that would trigger the AUTOMATIC will override this setting.
iv. TOP/BOTTOM is for t-b signals in 720p or 1080p/24Hz that do not perfectly match the HDMI standards but may still be available from cable boxes, sat receivers, and other devices. This is a manual setting. Also any 3D signal that would trigger the AUTOMATIC will override this setting.
v. CHECKERBOARD is for 1080p/60Hz checkerboard 3D signals from external devices such as the external 3D adapter and several computer graphics cards/3D programs. This is a manual setting. Also any 3D signal that would trigger the AUTOMATIC will override this setting.
vi. 2D + DEPTH is to a 2D-to-3D converter of sorts. Gives standard 2D signals a 3D or depth quality and does require the glasses.
b. “Glasses Emitter External” are the controls for the 3D glasses synchronization emitter you plug in to the back of the TV. Standard is Left eye first, Right eye second. Reverse is Right eye first, Left eye second. This just adjusts the synchronization of the glasses – some glasses and some original source material may be the reverse of what most use for standard.
c. “Depth” controls the amount of depth you see in the 2D + DEPTH conversion process.
d. “DLP Link” are the controls for the DLP Link glasses emitter internal to the TV. This one has the OFF setting because when it is on you get that color shift you complained about in your C9. DLP Link type glasses use a special bright flash added to the picture. It is this flash that causes the color shift. Most DLP Link type glasses filter the flash out and the 3D picture looks correct, but the glasses that use the other type of emitter plugged into the back, often do not filter the flash and still show the color shift. If you are not using DLP Link type glasses keep this set to OFF.
3. I know you asked which are the best glasses; however there is no universally excepted answer to this question. It highly subjective. When used properly all off the glasses have good to excellent performance but the criteria of “best” also includes weight, size, color of lenses, replaceable vs. rechargeable glasses etc. and everyone have different opinions.
post #184 of 1871
FINALY after almost 4 weeks I got my 73640 and WOW is it amazing, especialy after some calibration. I have noticed one thing, it might be a fualt of dlp but I dont remember noticing it on my dads 67" samsung dlp. In high contrast scenes like most of Star Wars episode 3 (a MUST SEE in bluray, looks amazing on this tv) you can see light excape into the top black bar on non 16:9 movies, it happens when a light object goes off the screen or even gets close to the edge. It's not that bad but a little annoying.

I am in ah at this tv though, can't wait to get a 3d bd player and glasses.

This thing almost spans the room, ignore the temporary stand, I'm building a flexi style one in the next few days.
LL
post #185 of 1871
Ordered one today from bestbuy, instore. My fingers are crossed that this is worth it.
post #186 of 1871
Great info, thank you sir.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

DLP Link are the controls for the DLP Link glasses emitter internal to the TV. This one has the OFF setting because when it is on you get that color shift you complained about in your C9. DLP Link type glasses use a special bright flash added to the picture. It is this flash that causes the color shift. Most DLP Link type glasses filter the flash out and the 3D picture looks correct, but the glasses that use the other type of emitter plugged into the back, often do not filter the flash and still show the color shift. If you are not using DLP Link type glasses keep this set to OFF.

So there is no way to turn this off in the C9? Pretty much my only 3D-related option within the TV itself is on or off. Unfortunate because I'm almost positive that my glasses are not DLP Link type. They are the ones that came in the 3DC-1000 3D starter kit. Am I correct in this assumption? Should I look into getting some DLP Link glasses, or is there a way to disable the color shift or "flash"?
post #187 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaskan_awd View Post

FINALY after almost 4 weeks I got my 73640 and WOW is it amazing, especialy after some calibration. I have noticed one thing, it might be a fualt of dlp but I dont remember noticing it on my dads 67" samsung dlp. In high contrast scenes like most of Star Wars episode 3 (a MUST SEE in bluray, looks amazing on this tv) you can see light excape into the top black bar on non 16:9 movies, it happens when a light object goes off the screen or even gets close to the edge. It's not that bad but a little annoying.

I am in ah at this tv though, can't wait to get a 3d bd player and glasses.

This thing almost spans the room, ignore the temporary stand, I'm building a flexi style one in the next few days.

Glad to hear you're enjoying it man. Make sure you get the firmware update because supposedly it corrects the 3D bugs.
post #188 of 1871
I've had both, and LOVE the screen on the 73640 FAR BETTER than the "shiny" screen that the 62525 had.
Our TV (Great Room) is not symmetrical... and there are lamps behind the couch... One of them, when on reflects off the lower right side of the DLP to where I usually sit...

Conversations went like this "Please turn off lamp, it's reflecting off screen of DLP."

When we swapped the 73640 in place of the 62525, It occurred to me maybe a month later that I hadn't mentioned the lamp in a long while...

So one night I asked she turn the offending lamp ON.. Other than a weird look, she turned it on... and I realized that the shiny very reflective in-focus lamp reflecting off the screen of the 62525 has turned into a out of focus in-distinct image that is far less offending...

Oh -- I still ask her to turn it off..... but it is far less distracting than before..... !!!
post #189 of 1871
Got the TV dialed in some more, I continue to be amazed by this thing. When sitting up, my eyes are only 7' away from the screen (I'd like to push the seating back another foot but that will put my surrounds to far forward) and I can not believe how clear it looks sitting this close. I have started re-watching my movie collection and it really is like watching a new movie.

For any one else that is considering this TV and games, I have done a fair amount of Battle Field 3 on XBOX on it and it is awesome. The guns are life size and I do not detect any lag. I have also played Forza 4, the cockpit view is crazy, with this big of a screen and sitting so close it's more like a driving simulation.

I have noticed these TV's do have a ton of over-scan so I might try turning off the geometry correction and see what it looks like. However as it sits the geometry looks excellent so I may not even mess with it.

I can not wait to get set up for 3d.

BTW any one looking for some settings or at-least a good starting point, I used these settings for a 73738 and they look pretty dang good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nicholc2 View Post

Ok, you asked for it, so here are my calibrated settings. Let me preface by saying that I do not in any way think that these settings will make any other persons TV fully calibrated like mine is. They may help, but they may also make it worse. That's the chance you take when using someone else's settings.

Picture Mode: ADV
DeepField Imager: Off
Super Resolution: Off
EdgeEnhance: Off
Video Noise: Off
Brightness: 29
Contrast: 52
Color: 33
Tint: 31
Sharpness: 31
Gamma: 2.2
Red High: 982
Green High: 1011
Blue High: 1020
Red Low: 1
Green Low: 2
Blue Low: 2
Blue Only: Off
Red Adjust: 13, 2, 0
Green Adjust: 2, 12, 2
Blue Adjust: 0, 5, 13
Magenta Adjust: 11, 6, 11
Cyan Adjust: 3, 14, 12
Yellow Adjust: 14, 13, 3
post #190 of 1871
Christmas is coming and i really want to get some 3d glasses.

Did anyone tried these 3DGEX103 XPAND 3D kit that comes with 1 glass and an emitter?

And also i found this NXG kit
post #191 of 1871
We prefer the Optoma ZD101's here. We also have the True Depth 3d and Ultimate 3d glasses but those still had the DLP Link Green Tint you could see through them. DLP Link glasses that is. That way didn't have to fool with the whole emitter deal. The ZD101's are perfect color wise and for clarity.

I was going to get the xpands to try them, but they were too expensive to buy at store vs. buying online these others online. ($120 for a pair at the place I bought the TV.---->PTV)
post #192 of 1871
Just an update here.

Finished the 13.04 update, almost missed the part about not turning the TV off before unplugging after update was complete. WHEW...

I have U-Verse, an older Sony surround sound system with RCA inputs only and the WD-73640 with digital optical output only. After thinking about buying a DAC (digital to analog converter) for about $80, I decided to try plugging in the Sony RCA inputs to the U-Verse DVRs RCA outputs and voila, surround sound is back.


So far my only complaint is that Mitsubishi didnt put RCA audio output jacks on this model.
post #193 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by rocko1290 View Post

Just took my PS3 up to Conn's and connected it to a WD-73640. I was trying to determine if my 3D adapter box which is required for viewing 3D material was the source of the horrible gaming lag I was experiencing. The short answer: yes. However, upon connecting my PS3 directly to the 640, and connecting the 3D emitter (not adapter) as well, the 3D quality was absolutely terrible. The overall quality was not nearly the same as what I currently get at home. The depth just wasn't the same, there was crosstalk, the text was virtually unreadable, it almost made you feel like you're going cross-eyed, and overall just did not look or feel right (my girlfriend and I both agreed on all this). I tried all of the several 3D modes within the TV and all of them had the same terrible result. However, I did not experience nearly the lag as I do now, so that answered the question of whether or not the gaming lag was caused by the 3D adapter box. So I went ahead and connected the PS3 to the 640 thru the 3D adapter box as I currently do with my WD-65C9, and WOW what a huge difference. The 3D quality blew away what I saw without the use of the 3D adapter box. Consequently, of course, the lag returned. So now it is a question of lag vs. low quality and I'm opting for the lag (it was that much of a terrible difference). Does anyone have any sort of explanation for this? Is there some kind of setting I was missing? The "DLP Link" setting was set to "off", I changed it to "standard" and it made no difference. (There was also some other setting, can't remember what it was called but it had something to do with 3D and it was set to "standard" by default with additional "reverse" and "off" options). Has anyone compared the older 3D-ready models with the new ones which have the 3D built in? I guess perhaps I could've tried switching the 3D mode within the adapter itself but for some reason I'm doubting this would've made a difference.

I still need to try having the PS3 output only 720p in 3D rather than 1080p to see if perhaps the upscaling is causing the lag. Can't quite figure out how to make this work though. There doesn't seem to be a way to set the PS3 to output only 720p without turning off the 3D. In the "display settings", if I go to custom settings, I can adjust the ps3 to output only 720p, and this gives me no option to enable 3D, and it turns 3D off. If I go to automatic, it automatically detects that I have a 3D TV, asks for my screen size, and automatically sets the output resolution to all that my TV supports (including 1080i/p). Is there an upconversion setting somewhere I'm missing that I should turn off? Playing Killzone 3 in 3D, I press the info button on my TV remote which confirmed that the source signal is being output in 1080p.

I've also tried the gaming mode on my TV to no success.

Any help or input appreciated.

So I think you are seeing what I did, huge lag. The problem I found was that the game has a native resolution of 720p, which if you uncheck the 1080i in your PS3 output only allows 720p which eliminates all lag and is awesome, if you want 3D you need to have 1080p which results in the lag, I like the 3D but the lag is terrible. So run your video output setup and make sure you uncheck 1080i so the PS3 doesnt upscale the game. Let me know if this doesnt make sense.
post #194 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by mustacci View Post

So I think you are seeing what I did, huge lag. The problem I found was that the game has a native resolution of 720p, which if you uncheck the 1080i in your PS3 output only allows 720p which eliminates all lag and is awesome, if you want 3D you need to have 1080p which results in the lag, I like the 3D but the lag is terrible. So run your video output setup and make sure you uncheck 1080i so the PS3 doesnt upscale the game. Let me know if this doesnt make sense.

So you're saying if it's in 3D, then you're gonna have lag no matter what? As mentioned, I've tried adjusting the PS3 to output only 720p but it will not allow 3D in this case. I have no lag with normal 2D material. Only 3D from the PS3.
post #195 of 1871
Have a question for you....

My 62525 had only one HDMI input, so I used a simple wireless HDMI 3x1 switcher, and all worked fine...

I'm finding that the same HDMI switcher will not work on the 73640...

All 3 of my HDMI inputs are now full....

Has anyone found a wireless HDMI switcher that works successfully with the 73640?

Thanks..
post #196 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jan J View Post

Has anyone found a wireless HDMI switcher that works successfully with the 73640?

Thanks..

This one works fine with my 73640..

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details
post #197 of 1871
Looks very similar to the one I have!
Bet it's same, with new firmware!

Thanks... Will have to look into that more!!
post #198 of 1871
what are the dimensions of the base? i know its a smaller profile than what the actual area of the set is. trying to find a temporary stand around the house. thanks.

its getting delivered today!
post #199 of 1871
post #200 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

From the Mitsubsihi web sit.

http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/pdf/201...0_dimsheet.pdf

haha yeah i tried that first,... but my lappy is actin up... but thank you anyways. got it set up, just to the ps3 right now, more details to come.

so far amazing...
post #201 of 1871
I used the base from my old Mitsubisrhi (62525)... It has a nice glass shelf under the center for 2 devices (DVR BR Player, in our case) and raises the DLP up 14 or so inches..... Which is perfect height in my opinion..... The difference in the size between 62 and 73 is minimal, and the base is just as solid as before, because the 73640 DLP is actually lighter than the older one...

I believe you'd be good with something 40-42" wide, and 14-16" tall. Remember, the base of the 73640 is only ~38" wide...


Quote:
Originally Posted by angelthrust View Post

what are the dimensions of the base? i know its a smaller profile than what the actual area of the set is. trying to find a temporary stand around the house. thanks.

its getting delivered today!
post #202 of 1871
Question. How do I reset Geometry Correction? I read in one of the other threads about losing 1:1 pixel mapping and wanted to see if the PQ was better with it off.

Thank you.
post #203 of 1871
just wanted to chime in.... bought Xpand IR 3d pack and extra glasses and OMG!!! AWESOME! Just watched Cars 2! LOVED IT!!!!
post #204 of 1871
Looks like BF started a little eary. I just ordered a 73640 from Amazon. It's not due here until the 30th, so I've got a little waiting to do. I'm not very good at waiting. Now that I've pulled the handle, I want it now.
post #205 of 1871
I have my eyes set on this TV. But my only problem is that I have a huge TV stand with towers and roof. I can push the towers out a bit to give me 65" of free space. Would it be a problem if there is almost no gap between the TV's side and tower?
Another major issue is that the TV stand is 29" high . My couch is just 17" high at a distance of 18' from the TV screen. People that would view this TV are between 5'2" to 5' 11". I know this would be a bad setup. Any suggestions on how I can make it work (other than getting a new stand)?
post #206 of 1871
2 days ago while watching a movie the tv turned off and the green led was blinking fast... anything to worry about?
post #207 of 1871
Just bought one for $675 delivered at BestBuy.com $699 - 10% Discover Card discount ( link through discover.com).

I am replacing a Sony 60" SXRD. Can't wait to see what the difference in size truly is. The opening I have is 65.25" wide so it should fit like a glove. I have not had a DLP since my Samsung HLM5065. I hope I don't have rainbow flashbacks

can anyone speak to all the negative DLP/ DMD press online. Was there a specific DMD run that was bad? Are these sets using newer DMD's ?
post #208 of 1871
Wow I can't believe that price but just saw it on bestbuy.com, I'm pissed lol I paid 1600 just over a month ago on hsn.com
post #209 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by brianshaun85 View Post

Wow I can't believe that price but just saw it on bestbuy.com, I'm pissed lol I paid 1600 just over a month ago on hsn.com

LOL I know thats crazy. I really WANTED the 82740 but they're still sitting at around 2 grand! I may just bite the bullet and get the 73640.
post #210 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by Empirical View Post

Just bought one for $675 delivered at BestBuy.com $699 - 10% Discover Card discount ( link through discover.com).

I am replacing a Sony 60" SXRD. Can't wait to see what the difference in size truly is. The opening I have is 65.25" wide so it should fit like a glove. I have not had a DLP since my Samsung HLM5065. I hope I don't have rainbow flashbacks

can anyone speak to all the negative DLP/ DMD press online. Was there a specific DMD run that was bad? Are these sets using newer DMD's ?

From what I have seen it was the biggest issue with Samsungs of the past. Don't worry, have had this over 3 months, great TV. Really pissed about paying 1349 vs. 699. WTF?? Maybe Mits said the hell with DLP after all and wants to clear inventory before CES. lol, I kid.
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