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2011 Mitsubishi DLP WD-73640 official thread - Page 9

post #241 of 1871
Quick question for owners. I have a directv 3 capable receiver. I take it that to make that work with this tv I need the mitsubishi 3d adapter and a compatible set of glasses and emitter to go with that adapter. Kind of looks like the kit with the adapter, emitter and glasses is about the same price as buying the adapter and then some other emitter and glasses. I'm sure some of the 3rd party glasses/emitters are better. I see people mentioning several models, but I dont know if those are compatible with the mitsubishi 3d adaper. I see several mentions of different pinned plugs and a couple of reviews complaining that the emitter they bought doesnt plug into the mitsubishi adapter.

Anyone with specific recommendations in that area?
post #242 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by yadfgp View Post

Anyone who bought their WD-73640 on Thanksgiving from BB for only $699.00 shipped, have shipping confirmation yet?

I ordered mine at around 8 am that day MST and it still says

Order Status: 1 item(s) - order at warehouse in process of shipping.

Damn they sure are taking their time with this thing.

I was hoping maybe they'd throw it onto a truck from 1 of the nearby BB's to me and just deliver it that way. Sure as hell hope it's not being shipped to me from 1000's of miles away.

That bestbuy special order said it could take 2-9 business days before it might ship. So you might not see a ship confirmation for it until next week.

I dont think these are going to the stores first, so you'll probably get it shipped long haul not from the store.

Not sure if BB is doing curbside, front door or inside delivery on these. Depends on the shipper and what they're paid to do.
post #243 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by snoop View Post

Quick question for owners. I have a directv 3 capable receiver. I take it that to make that work with this tv I need the mitsubishi 3d adapter and a compatible set of glasses and emitter to go with that adapter. Kind of looks like the kit with the adapter, emitter and glasses is about the same price as buying the adapter and then some other emitter and glasses. I'm sure some of the 3rd party glasses/emitters are better. I see people mentioning several models, but I dont know if those are compatible with the mitsubishi 3d adaper. I see several mentions of different pinned plugs and a couple of reviews complaining that the emitter they bought doesnt plug into the mitsubishi adapter.

Anyone with specific recommendations in that area?

I can only answer some of your questions as I am also looking for the "best" glasses too. Your MY2011 tv is a 3D TV (not 3D ready). It does not require an adapter. There are 2 options for you. First one is DLP Link glasses which does not require an emitter at all. The other option is to use IR glasses which would need an emitter. I *think* the best option is the Optoma ZD201 DLP link glasses. Unfortunately they are not available in US yet.
post #244 of 1871
Can anyone comment on DirecTV 3D content? I have HD DirecTV and I've seen the 3D channels as an option but never had a 3D capable TV. I just bought this one and, after I buy the glasses, I'm wondering if I'll be able to use my DirecTV for 3D content or whether I'll need to upgrade my receiver.

Are the Optoma ZD201 going to be sold in the US (looks like they have been out almost a year) or are people buying them from England?
post #245 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by JZeld View Post

Can anyone comment on DirecTV 3D content? I have HD DirecTV and I've seen the 3D channels as an option but never had a 3D capable TV. I just bought this one and, after I buy the glasses, I'm wondering if I'll be able to use my DirecTV for 3D content or whether I'll need to upgrade my receiver.

Are the Optoma ZD201 going to be sold in the US (looks like they have been out almost a year) or are people buying them from England?

If you have an HR20 then you'll need an upgrade. Directv should do this for you at no charge, but you may be renewed into another 2 year contract/commit so check on that first.

Otherwise you need this tv, and as far as I can tell either an emitter and matching glasses or dlp link glasses that I dont think needs an emitter. Seems like there are a lot of proponents for both the regular IR/RF emitter versions and the dlp link versions.

You may also need upgraded hdmi cables. The new 1.4 spec'ed cables assure good 3d and color depth and arent that expensive. I've seen them for <$3 at amazon. I found a really old HDMI cable in my system and got some improvements in color depth by changing it out for a new one.
post #246 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by snoop View Post

If you have an HR20 then you'll need an upgrade. Directv should do this for you at no charge, but you may be renewed into another 2 year contract/commit so check on that first.

Otherwise you need this tv, and as far as I can tell either an emitter and matching glasses or dlp link glasses that I dont think needs an emitter. Seems like there are a lot of proponents for both the regular IR/RF emitter versions and the dlp link versions.

You may also need upgraded hdmi cables. The new 1.4 spec'ed cables assure good 3d and color depth and arent that expensive. I've seen them for <$3 at amazon. I found a really old HDMI cable in my system and got some improvements in color depth by changing it out for a new one.

Thanks for the info! I have the HR22 and HR23 so hopefully I'm good to go there.

I was looking for 1.4 cables and apparently they aren't often marketed under that name (1.4) but rather High Speed with Ethernet. It is unclear whether the plain "High Speed" cables are sufficient but I see monoprice sells 6 feet High Speed w/ Ethernet HDMI Cable w/ Ferrite Cores - Black for $2.51 and figured I might as well not chance it at that price.

Last question, am I better off getting the Optoma ZD101s here in the US, or just ordering the Optoma ZD201s from outside?
post #247 of 1871
HDMI LLC, the official licensing organization for HDMI no longer allows any cable to be marked 1.4 or any other version number. As far as HDMI is concerned the proper markings for cables used in the home are:
1. Standard Speed
2. Standard Speed with Ethernet support
3. High Speed
4. High Speed with Ethernet support

For 3D you should use those marked High Speed.
post #248 of 1871
Ordered the 73640 on Thanksgiving morning from BestBuy and just recieved shipping conformation. Coming from Pilot freightservices, estimated arival date said 12/05
post #249 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

HDMI LLC, the official licensing organization for HDMI no longer allows any cable to be marked 1.4 or any other version number. As far as HDMI is concerned the proper markings for cables used in the home are:
1. Standard Speed
2. Standard Speed with Ethernet support
3. High Speed
4. High Speed with Ethernet support

For 3D you should use those marked High Speed.

In looking what was revised in 1.4, it looks like there was some 3D enhancement of some sort. Can anyone confirm that High Speed is sufficient? Also, how do you know if your existing cable is high speed or standard speed?
post #250 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by phatgee View Post

Ordered the 73640 on Thanksgiving morning from BestBuy and just recieved shipping conformation.
Coming from Pilot freightservices, estimated arival date said 12/05

Just got the same shipping confirmation email from Bestbuy, as well.

For the Optoma ZD201, I did find it in China market, the price is RMB:450
(~ USD:70) plus shipping.
Don't worry!!, I'll try and test the glasses first
when my wife bring them back on Dec 14, then post
the further information of ZD201 here for all of you.
post #251 of 1871
Not as lucky as some, but ordered from Sears yesterday. They got me for shipping but should they have charged me tax also?
I should get 15% off thru discover, which covers most of shipping and tax.

Also, I'm now looking for a minimum 65" wide stand that is 24-26" tall. I've been searching here, google and hit the streets also. No good luck so any ideas for under 500?
post #252 of 1871
I got my shipping confirmation from BB today also!

But when I click on the tracking number for my TV, it says that it was already delivered back on 6/2/10!

WTF!

Kinda weird...

Anyone else have this issue?

I called BB up and got an automated message to call back later due to heavy call volumes.
post #253 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by JZeld View Post

In looking what was revised in 1.4, it looks like there was some 3D enhancement of some sort. Can anyone confirm that High Speed is sufficient? Also, how do you know if your existing cable is high speed or standard speed?

The only changes in cables for the HDMI 1.4 specs adds Eithernet to the cable. Nothing new was required for 3D signals. High Speed is the best tested quality for HDMI cables. There is a test proceedure they need to pass to be called High Speed.

Offically if the HDMI logo is on the connector plastic, the cable it should be High Speed. New cables may say High Speed on the plastic along the cable itself and on the packaging.

For older cables, they very well may be OK but if unmarked it is hard to tell. for 3D High Speed is best but, over short distances (3 feet or so), a good quality Standard Speed even works.
post #254 of 1871
GEP : Thanks alot for the info on HDMI cables.

Just bought a whole bunch of em.
post #255 of 1871
My thanks too GEP on the HDMI info.

69Mach -- Did you check out this one at Amazon? Not quite your dimensions but the price is right.

Dimensions: 15.75" x 65.125" x 17.5"

http://www.amazon.com/Pinnacle-TV607...2529117&sr=8-1
post #256 of 1871
what is the difference from the 640 and the 73c11?
post #257 of 1871
I'm wondering the same thing. I couldn't find anything listed about the differences. They have the same user manual, and same firmware updates. The user manual didn't have anything saying "This feature applies only to model xxx". Also, the quick comparison sheet on Mitsubishi's site shows they are the same.
I was thinking 73c11 was 2011 model, and the x40 models are 2012, but I'm not really sure.
post #258 of 1871
guess ill have to call mitsu tomarrow
post #259 of 1871
Typically in years past there has been very minimal differences between the c models and the lower end numerical model TV. Same thing applies towards this year as well probably.
post #260 of 1871
Hello guys,

Is the Xpand 103 the only/best IR solution for this TV?

-Yenal
post #261 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by 69mach1-377 View Post

Not as lucky as some, but ordered from Sears yesterday. They got me for shipping but should they have charged me tax also?
I should get 15% off thru discover, which covers most of shipping and tax.

Also, I'm now looking for a minimum 65" wide stand that is 24-26" tall. I've been searching here, google and hit the streets also. No good luck so any ideas for under 500?

http://www.onecall.com/product/Mitsu...tand/_/R-97461
post #262 of 1871
Quote:

Thanks but it's too short for our needs and I don't like the way the shelf space is chamferred in the back. It cuts down on usable component area leaving a corner hanging in mid air.
So, anyone know of a 24" tall unit (can include casters) at least 65" wide? My center speaker is 21" wide by 9" tall.
post #263 of 1871
I'm pissed I missed the Best Buy deal too. It was literally only available for about 14 hours. I saw the deal posted on slickdeals.net around midnight, the night before Thanksgiving. I literally had the thing in my cart @ $699 around 1:45 PM EST on Thanksgiving day, but it took 15 minutes for me to activate my Discover card that had been sitting in my wallet unactivated for months. I wanted that 10% back on top of the great deal - guess I got screwed for being greedy. Grrrrrr!!!

I got off the phone with Discover after activating the card and hearing the customer service rep's lovely schpeel about how great Discover card is. I then proceed to punch in the card # in in the check out screen on Best Buy's site, clicked on check out to pay and then it brought me to a web page saying "page not found" Of course when I went to search it again it was sold out!!! Sooooooo close.

But after scouring the internet dell.com has it for $929 with free shipping. Hope some others can take advantage of this. This is the WD-73C11 model but from what I can see is its the exact same thing as the WD-73640. I ordered it yesterday and am anxiously awaiting delivery!!
post #264 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by rodslnger View Post

guess ill have to call mitsu tomarrow

Were you able to find out from Mitsu if there is a difference between the 73C11 and 73640? Thanks.
post #265 of 1871
Hey guys --

I've been reading pages upon pages on TV's (not just this model)... so please excuse the noob-level question here, its not due to lack of effort:

I plan on ordering this TV within the next several days... I use a PS3 as a BD player and would want to use this TV with 3D (don't really care about cablebox 3D or anything other then BD). Would I need to buy anything other then 3D glasses to get this to work to its fullest 3D extent? I thought I've read here that you do need a special IR emitter of some sort, but my brain is mush right now after all the reading.

Sorry again for the lame-o question.... I'd appreciate someone clarifying for me!!


ADDED:

Also, I thought I saw someone say that this set doesn't do 1080p/24 correctly (or some half-assed version of it). Could anyone clarify that for me?
post #266 of 1871
About to purchase the DLP Mitsu 73640 OR Panasonic Plasma P60S30 ...
15 - 17 ft Viewing distance to tv ...
"Somewhat Bright" living room area.(Controllable with blinds/curtains) - No direct lights

Tv will be used mostly action movies & sports.
Standard dvd player will be used ... I only have limited HD channels ...
Most viewing will be from Standard Def Channels for now ...

Does anyone have any major gripes/complaints with SD Channel Viewing on the 73640??
post #267 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by JP32 View Post

Hey guys --

I've been reading pages upon pages on TV's (not just this model)... so please excuse the noob-level question here, its not due to lack of effort:

I plan on ordering this TV within the next several days... I use a PS3 as a BD player and would want to use this TV with 3D (don't really care about cablebox 3D or anything other then BD). Would I need to buy anything other then 3D glasses to get this to work to its fullest 3D extent? I thought I've read here that you do need a special IR emitter of some sort, but my brain is mush right now after all the reading.

Sorry again for the lame-o question.... I'd appreciate someone clarifying for me!!

1. For 3D you need Active Shutter 3D glasses (battery operated), you have a choice of three basic types of AS 3D Glasses

a. DLP Link - all DLP Link type glasses are compatible and no additional emitter is required.

b. IR Controlled AS 3D glasses - these use an IR signal to control the glasses and that signal comes from an IR emitter. You need to match IR emitter to the glasses - the emitters are not universal. However some types IR controlled glasses are universal or near universal - like universal remote controls you need to program the glasses for the emitter you get. The IR emitter plugs into a connector on the back of the TV and that connector follows the VESA standards (an industry group). The emitter needs to also follow the VESA standards - many do but Sony emitters do not.

c. RF controlled AS 3D glasses - these use a radio frequency signal to control the glasses. You need a transmitter (emitter) to control the glasses so the transmitter needs to match the glasses. The transmitter would plug into the same VESA connector on the TV - here you are mostly confined to Monster brand 3D glasses - at least that is the only brand that I know about
that has a transmitter and it is VESA connector.

ADDED:

Also, I thought I saw someone say that this set doesn't do 1080p/24 correctly (or some half-assed version of it). Could anyone clarify that for me?


2. The definition of "doing 1080p/24 properly" really only has a "common usage" definition because there is no industry group approved, legal approved or government approved definition for that term.

However the 24p part means 24 frames per second. No TV at all refreshes the screen 24 times per second because that would cause major flicker, motion artifacts and on LCD TVs motion blur. 24 frames per second is simply too slow. It is used because it saves storage space on discs and less film stock and less electronic memory space.

2. All TVs refresh the screen at least 60 times per second. Some refresh 120 times per second and some even refresh 240 times per second (I am speaking about North America TVs not other parts of the world).

3. Movie Film is normally 24 frames per second. In the movie theater they double or triple flash each frame because if they only showed 24 frames or flashes per second there would be major flicker.

4. TVs refresh faster than movies and need to convert the 24 frame-per-second to higher frame rates.

4a. For 60 fps TVs, they do something called 3/2 pull down - they repeat one movie frame 3 times then they repeat then next movie frame 2 times and the next movie frame 3 times again. This equals 60 frames per second. However because of the uneven repeat pattern, there is some additional motion judder introduced (movies at 24 fps have natural judder already). Most people do not even see this additional judder because TVs have been doing this since the very beginning and they are used to this and think it looks correct.

4b. TVs that are 120 fps, can (but not all do) repeat each movie frame 5 times and then the next frame 5 times as so forth - called 5/5 pull down. There is no added judder.

4c. Some of these high frame rate TVs will instead make up new frames to insert between original frames. Each new frame is slightly different. This is instead of repeating frames. This give a very "soap opera" like look - because soap operas and other material recorded from video cameras are 30 or 60 frames per second, not 24.

5. The idea is to divide the 24 frames to the number of repeats per second as the TV refreshes without an uneven pattern. The 5/5 pull down is normally considered a “proper repeat pattern”. This is what the "common usage" term of doing 24p properly.

6. The Mitsubishi DLP TVs are 60 fps / 120 sub-frames per second. As sub-frame is 1/2 the pixels, displayed in a checkerboard pattern - in short sub-frame "A" is the black squares and sub-frame "B" is the red squares. Two sub-frames equals one full frame. Both sub-frames are made from the same full frame. This means the Mitsubishi DLP TVs need to use the 3/2 pull down first and then divide these frames into sub-frames. Again, most people do not see the 3/2 pull down judder because that is the way TVs have been doing it since the beginning.
post #268 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post


6. The Mitsubishi DLP TVs are 60 fps / 120 sub-frames per second. As sub-frame is 1/2 the pixels, displayed in a checkerboard pattern - in short sub-frame "A" is the black squares and sub-frame "B" is the red squares. Two sub-frames equals one full frame. Both sub-frames are made from the same full frame. This means the Mitsubishi DLP TVs need to use the 3/2 pull down first and then divide these frames into sub-frames. Again, most people do not see the 3/2 pull down judder because that is the way TVs have been doing it since the beginning.


Thank you for the quick, in depth reply!

I actually work in the film industry, so I know all about 24fps.. but this quoted text is of particular interest to me.

So the Mits uses almost the same tech as old interlaced style? Yikes.

I was hoping by 2011, the 5/5 pulldown would be standard. I remember the tech was around in 2007 when I got my JVC 61" LCoS (but that set doesn't have it). I have a vague knowledge of the 2007-ish and on sets having that so-called Soap-Opera-extra-smooth mode that is usually defeatable.

Is the sub-frame thing a DLP issue, or just a style that Mits decided to go with? I assume that even though it's not the 'best' 1080/24, that I'd at least be able to set my PS3 to output at 1080/24 and it'd work correctly?


Also thanks for the 3D glasses run-down... definitely didn't know that stuff. So if I stick with DLP-link, I don't need extra equipment, but if I go in another direction, I'd need an emitter.
post #269 of 1871
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfish123 View Post

I'm pissed I missed the Best Buy deal too. It was literally only available for about 14 hours. I saw the deal posted on slickdeals.net around midnight, the night before Thanksgiving. I literally had the thing in my cart @ $699 around 1:45 PM EST on Thanksgiving day, but it took 15 minutes for me to activate my Discover card that had been sitting in my wallet unactivated for months. I wanted that 10% back on top of the great deal - guess I got screwed for being greedy. Grrrrrr!!!

I got off the phone with Discover after activating the card and hearing the customer service rep's lovely schpeel about how great Discover card is. I then proceed to punch in the card # in in the check out screen on Best Buy's site, clicked on check out to pay and then it brought me to a web page saying "page not found" Of course when I went to search it again it was sold out!!! Sooooooo close.

But after scouring the internet dell.com has it for $929 with free shipping. Hope some others can take advantage of this. This is the WD-73C11 model but from what I can see is its the exact same thing as the WD-73640. I ordered it yesterday and am anxiously awaiting delivery!!

Yesterday dell had the 82740 for 1899$, I thought that was a great deal, now it is up to 3499$
post #270 of 1871
I am in the planning phase of redoing my system and have a question concerning dlp link. I am also building a htgpc with a I5, gt560ti, 3d blu-ray player and plan on using nvidia 3d. Will I be able to use Nvidia 3d vision with dlp link or will I have to go with an ir emitter?

I have read that the ZD201 is the best glasses to use for this set and that they aren't available stateside, but a quick google search shows US stock. Am I missing something?
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