2011 Mitsubishi DLP WD-73640 official thread - Page 15

Attached are my greyscale and primaries as measured with el cheapo i2 display.
Its not the best at 0 and 10% IRE, but nevertheless, less than 8Delta across the greyscale.


These are out the box natural, low temp measuremens. Contrast and Brightness set. Nothing else.

Is there a way to copy the Natural setting over to advanced and use as a starting point for a full cal?

The answer is no, but...
The guy who delivered the 640 suggested we use a runner rug, upside down, to place the side edge of the 628 on. It was not balanced, so I did that while he dragged it into the bedroom. Once there, we lifted it onto the stand. The tv worked fine after being sideways and dragged.
That advice and help was worth the $20 I tipped him.
The 640 fired up and no visible damage or screen issues, but I won't connect it until tomorrow probably.

To be more explicit, I think the full procedure is:

1) Press Menu to display the regular menu
2) Press 2,4,5,7 in sequence (one at a time) to display the service menu (just some green text overlaid in the lower left of the screen)
3) Pressing 0 will pop another part of the service menu with a "Manual Geometry Alignment" option

That's just how to get in, I'm pretty clueless on what all those options are. I managed to tweak the geometry a bit, but didn't touch anything else. Can anyone point us to some more info?

Note that I agree with snoop, despite the screen feeling loose along the top edge, I don't see any impact on picture quality on my set. The top edge of the picture actually looks quite straight. There is some bowing along all the edges, but it's more pronounced on the sides, which I think is pretty normal for RPTVs. The only abnormal issue with my screen is a "bump" in the geometry along the right edge about halfway up. I can't completely compensate for that with the geometry adjustments.

Certainly, however the stuff you mentioned dont cost 2-3x as much as the manufacturing cost of the 73". Its not like they're having to turn out an lcd or plasma panel that actually costs a lot more to make in larger sizes.


And yet they have a 16 speaker version of this (the 73840) that costs more and sounds fine and looks identical, and my old 55" jvc lcos set that was about the same setup only a little smaller had fabulous sound and bass. If I remember right they had a tunnel built into the cabinet with some speakers mounted in it.

I understand the idea of segmentation and selling up, but I'm an unhappy camper about the universal decision to make most tv sets with crappy, useless sound on the presumption that everyone will want to hook up a sound bar or a surround sound system. I physically cannot use a sound bar or surround sound system with the tv in the room I'm using it in, which is why I bought a rear projection set as those have enough room in the cabinet to install a decent speaker.

Wish in one hand and crap in the other, see which one fills up first

I think useless is going a little too far, but thats me. I guess next time do more research before pulling the trigger. Sorry to hear that you are an unhappy camper. You cant win 'em all is the saying, right?

calimark: I, too have the i1display2 system.... How did you get it to track the DLP display? What software are you using? I'm using Match 3.6.2 on Windows...

Thanks.... Jan

DRAVEN, are these the glasses you say are green? I see the lens itself is tinted, however the reviews seem overwhelmingly positive, and at $59 it seems a good deal.What say you? .... are the Optoma's worth the extra money?

I spent 3 weeks researching what to buy and every review I saw about this set said the built in audio was more than satisfactory. I guess a lot of people think tinny sound with absolutely no bass at all is good.

So I found the time to set mine up and used these settings before watching Fast Five on BR last night. At first there seemed to be extra red skin tones, but by the middle of the movie they were gone. Not bad for it's debut, I guess there is a break-in period?
Anyone else happy with these settings?

Good for what? It is on par for a tv. Why get a big tv and then not also get a good sound system? Ever hear of this new fangled 'surround sound'?

Enough, please!

http://www.edealinfo.com/deal/Mitsub...TV/20111210114

Man am I glad I got this on Black Friday.

Dumb question, but I want to try and tweak some of the geometry a bit, I get into the service menu and hit 0 and then select manual geometry. I see where you can move the "+" marker around but I don't understand how you make adjustments. How do you make the adjustments for each color/line?

Color HCFR ( free sw ). And I used the patterns from the AVS image set ( see calibration forum). I just put up the patterns via PS3--did not burn to DVD.

I found Natural Low temp mode to be very accurate. Please see the charts I posted earlier.
Minor tweaking needed for absolute perfection.

BTW: Is there anyone else on this thread that has taken greyscale readings on their televison or done a full cal?

I have no clue what any of that graph stuff means.

Alaskan_awd: Thank you for the settings.

Wait until you have about 300 hours on the lamp to calibrate. It should then be pretty stable until the end of the lamp life. The grayscale on my 65835 was under 1 dE for most of the range after calibration.

Attachment 230445 Attachment 230446 Attachment 230447

I tried that last night but still found light skin to look kind of pasty and the color seems off a bit. The blues aren't deep enough it seems. I only have about 10 hours on the set so far.
Would tint adjustments help?
Maybe I'll pop in a DVD with the THX video helper and do some tweaking.
Even with this issue, the 640 seems to look better and sharper than my older 62628 in spite of it's larger size. Very pleased, as is my wife.

Very nice. Thanks a bunch.
Is there a way to copy natural to adv and use as a starting point?
How many passes did you make to achieve those results.
I'll wait as recommended to do full cal

I can't say if tinit will work. Am no expert but I can say properly cal'd images do appear 'weak' as most tbs come with blown out settings to ooooh and ahhhh us.
Did you at least set brightness and contrast using a pattern?

Not yet...that is my next step.
But should I wait a while to let it settle in?

Probably should.

These are actually nicholc2's settings, I quoted him in the original post.

Yep! and those settings after 300 hrs are killer on my 73738

They are for that TV. I tried them on my 640 and the skin tones had a slight green/yellowish tint, little on the dark side too. Wasn't my thing. I actually think with this years model they are pretty close to calibrated out of box on Natural. I made some slight mods to the Natural setting for regular viewing. 3D I set on bright for clarity and pop.

Anyone?

That's what I'm noticing. None of the skin tones look correct, light or dark.
I'll reserve judgement after more hours on the set though.
Clarity and definition are awesome. We watched Gnomeo and Juliet from the Dish HD feed last night, incredible.

I'm still having issues with some games not working in certain resolutions, or they work but the screen is shrunk. Weird thing about it though is it is intermittent problem.

I'm gonna try this program (Power Strip) tonight and see if it helps, if it does I'll let you guys know.

http://www.entechtaiwan.com/util/ps.shtm

The natural mode on my 73738 is as close to perfect as well and I use it for regular tv veiwing, trust me I felt the same about the settings as well and fully expected them not to be perfect, but when I put in the Spears & Munsil disc the color clipping was dead on as well as blacks and whites. The gray scale on the Natural mode is outstanding to say the least and an increase in the red low by one or reduction by one on the the green low in addition to the posted settings gets you damm close to it. After the set settles try revisiting the original settings and use a good test disc to compare