2011 Mitsubishi DLP WD-73640 official thread - Page 19

For me, my USB drive was 2GB, but it was using the FAT File System.

I copied those 2 files along with existing files that were already on the USB drive.

Hey Jan

Thanks for the advice. I did have the USB drive formatted as FAT32 as that is what is instructed in the firmware update directions.

I still have no clue why it took me about 11 times till it finally updated. I'm just glad the damn thing finally did. I'm especially perplexed as I've been working with computers for going on 20 years now. I've updated firmware on various devices many many times over the years and never had any issues like this as I've said before.

I had the flash drive setup with the 2 files on the drive, and always had it setup as FAT32. AS per the instructions. Maybe the instructions are wrong and it would have been alot easier for me if it was FAT instead of FAT32.

Anyways, the new firmware seems fine so far for me if anyone is wondering on the changes. I will say that after having had the set now for a couple of weeks, it's gotten past it's break in period and it looks phenomenal. I've had the set running constantly to get it broken in and I'm very happy. I just wish I could have gotten a good deal on the 82 though. Oh well.

Any word on what 13.05 was supposed to address?

Anyone have any issues with the TV not powering on or off? So far I've had one incident where it seemed the tv had no power as it would not power on. I had to unplug the tv from the outlet and plug it back in. The tv would then power on.

I've also had one incident of the tv not powering off. The screen just goes blue. I used the remote power button and the power button on the tv and it would not turn off. I had to unplug the tv from the outlet for a few seconds in order for it to turn off (I tried unplugging and plugging it back in and it came back to the blue screen).

No, that's just Mitsubishi

Maybe your remote needs to be reset?

The physical button on the tv would not work either.

Never happened to me, hope it never does. Is this still happening? If so, you might want to get it replaced asap.

I flashed mine with a 16GB Sandisk formatted for FAT32, with no problems.

One thing I can say about it, which may have some correlation with your comment about using a smaller drive is that its an older, slower usb stick. Smaller size sticks are often older, and slower.

So the consideration as to what works and what doesnt might be that one of those older or slower or smaller flash drives might be more compatible, as opposed to a newer higher speed flash drive.

I cant think of any reason why FAT32 would be the instructed method, worked for me, but wouldnt work on someone elses set. I know that on smaller volumes (<256MB) FAT is a little more efficient and faster than FAT32, but I'm not sure why that'd make it work vs fail.

Apparently the tv's operating system/flash/recovery software recognizes both formats, since people have had success using both formats.

What firmware version do you have? Total guess on my part, but maybe 13.05 was released to fix this issue you're having.

Completely forgot to put that in my post. I'm running the latest 13.05.

Can anybody comment about if there would be any PQ improvement in 2D over my current 5 year old 70 inch LCOS - JVC HD-P70R1U Rear Projection set . I am looking to uprading to a 3D set but would only use that for my Grandkids 15 to 20% of the time, so 80% of the time would be for a 2D picture, so it would be worth it, if there some improvement in PQ in 2D ..

I just put a new bulb in the JVC set and it has a Good picture but it still just doesn't have the 3d depth looking "POP" affect as other sets I have looked at .The QUALITY build on this 70 Inch JVC set is suberb and I have never had any problems. I was looking at he 70 inch SHARP but I want to keep the BUDGET low as this is not my main TV as I have HT room upstairs so that is why I was looking at upgrading to the 73 inch 640 model.

I don't know if anyone is really going to be able to tell you the diff between the 73640 and what you got. Your best bet is to swing by a Best Buy and/or some other place that sells tvs and check it out for yourself. I for one think the PQ is awesome. But then again I snagged this tv for $700 so I don't complain much.

I had the JVC and sold it when I got the $699 Best Buy deal on the 73640. I would say the pic on the JVC is the same or maybe a hair better. I am still fiddling with the 73640 settings so that likely accounts for the difference. The sound on the JVC is a lot better, but I have a surround sound system so it's not an issue with me. The 3D on the 73640 is freaking awesome. It's why I bought the tv and I don't regret it one bit. By the time I sold the JVC, the 73640 only cost me $150 more. Hope that helps.

1 thing to keep in mind with these sets is once they have reached a certain amount of usage, the PQ should look noticeably better than when you first get the set.

Mine looks substantially better in my opinion than when I first got it.

Sweet, good to know. Yeah, I would have assume it would get worse as time went by, but I guess this TV is like wine. Nice!!!

just curious, is there any remote app for android out for the 740-840 series???

I only see for apple. I hope we are not going to go down this road again.

I see the problem too: anytime red is near white, horrendous artifacts appear. Last night I watched High Society on HDNET, and it was terrible to see Grace Kelly's glossy lips have black and white dots and small lines in them. It happened to everyone's teeth too, as lips are red and teeth are white.

If you have your PC connected to the TV, go to the famous LCD test website (first hit when you google "LCD test") and there is a block of white text on red background that is impossible to read.

I have geometry correction turned off, so I have 1-to-1 pixel mapping. It is obviously a defect.

I owned the 2009 65" mits previously and never had this issue. (WD-65737)

Does anyone know if the latest firmware fixes this?

I'm just wondering if maybe this issue just goes away with time after the set has been broken in. I noticed something similar to what you guys are describing, but after having had the set on for good 3-400 hours or so, the PQ is awesome overall. Then again, maybe the latest FW did help with this.

I appreciate your optimism, and sure hope that's the case! :-) Are you saying the problem is no longer there, on your set?

Definitely no longer there.

For the first couple of weeks when I got my set, overall it looked good, but there was just fuzziness to the sharpness, and some colors seemed to kind of bleed into other colors and stuff. It was like the TV was good looking in general, but there were just certain things that just looked really off at times. I thought some of it might have to do with the source it's playing, but at the same time I knew it had to improve once the set was fully broken in. I left my set on basically 24/7 for a week or so, and around that same time I had installed the 13.05 FW. It then got to a point where it just seemed like within a 2-3 day period, the set just all of a sudden seemed perfect. Before that time I was always changing the PQ settings, adding more contrast, color, brightness etc. At least once a day. I haven't messed with any of that stuff in over a week or so, as everything just looks perfect to me now.

Thanks, that is very encouraging!

http://hd.engadget.com/2010/05/27/hd...all-tvs-do-it/

Just an FYI

Thought it might be helpful to some of us not so up on the TV geekness.

How do you turn the geometry correction on and off?

if you go the 2009 thread there will be a link to the FAQs. This provides information about how to get in the Service Menu and what to do there. Most of the information is 2009 specific but a lot of the Service Menu information is pertinent. It had been a long time since I turned it off on my 2009 and I had to to refresh my memory on the steps to turn of geometry correction on the WD-92840.

Be aware you may or may not like geometry correction off depending on how good your native geometry. On my 92840 the corrected geometry was amazingly good. The native or uncorrected geometry was disappointing. Still, I chose to leave it off as I don't spend a lot of time staring at program guides where you can see the flaws. In regular content the improved picture more than offset having perfectly straight lines uniformly across Medai Center's Program Guide.

Purchased Mitsubishi 73640. I connected it to Direct TV high def /3D receiver. The connection is through an HDMI cable. I have an XPAND emitter and 3D glasses. When I select an HD channel (e.g. Direct TV 106 - ESPN 3D), I see a message that 3D mode is now on and to put on the glasses. For some shows this works fine; for others I just see a blurry image, even after turning the glasses off and back on again. 3D mode is set to automatic. Any ideas as to what I am not doing correctly or what I should check.

Thanks.

I would agree with JKEENER - you need to decide which looks better. One thing to consider is "RBE" or rainbow effect - no issue on the DILA - but definitely a DLP issue.

DILA: 3 chips @ 1920 x 1080 vs
DLP:1 chip at 960 x 1080 wobulation ( correct me if I am wrong on the 960 x 1080)

Most people don't understand the downside of wobulation is not perceived resolution. If the set uses a color wheel as all the Mits do, some people may see RBE, the vast majority of the population is not sensitive to it. The down side is a potential loss of brightness. You don't have dedicated mirrors for each pixel so they can only be on for the time alotted for the pixel they are illuminating. In practical terms this is not an issue either for 2D. Where resoltuion and brightness are likely to benefit from non-wobulated solutions is in 3D. But the Mits sets do pretty well with 3D so all in all it is much ado about nothing.

RBE is very noticeable to me, in fact most people can see it if you tell / show them when to look for it. That was the point of my post, he is looking at a 3 chip display (RGB) to switch to DLP if he is not aware of RBE he should be so he can evaluate if it is an issue. What you see is what matters.

I have never had a single person I know of see or comment on RBE in a real world situation, doesn't mean it doesn't happen, clearly it does. Just that is a statistical rarity.

If you have a high sensititity to it, you will see it, but then some people see flicker on a computer display at anything less than 80 hz. Of course it is true you can be taught to see RBE by creating a non-real world scenario. I would never suggest anyone buy a rear projector DLP or other without seeing the one they are interested in or something similar. Rear projectors are not for everyone. I have/do own a number of DLPs including a couple of Sammy's, an HP and 2 Mits DLPs. Some of them are on semi-permanent loan with family members as I tend to always want the latest and greatest in my living room. My neighbor across the street owns a Mits DLP his second. I worked at HP when they were making them and lots of coworkers bought them at highly discounted prices. If RBE bothers you, you are in a relative rare minority.

Some people if they are taught to see RBE in one of the forced methods will not want anything to do with it, just because they can produce the effect, not necessarily because they see it watching in a normal way.