2011 Mitsubishi DLP WD-73640 official thread - Page 4

The only reset that I know about is to hold the power button down for about 10 seconds. When i do that, I can hear it reset but the screen never lights up. If anyone knows of some other way I am willing to be the guinea pig.

Quick question, left it in the 'higher' '40 model thread but silence.

I sold an 837 to buy this 640, and love it so far, but it has rainbows big time. My older 65837 had none, never saw a one. The 640 I can see rainbows with any darkish/dark scene.

Is anyone aware of any changes they might have made to the '40's or 640 that might cause this? Literally two years no rainbows, then constant, seems too weird.

To be honest I don't remember seeing them the couple hours before I updated to .03, but may just not have had anything dark on.

Thanks!

I would occasionally see rainbows on my 62525, but I have yet to see one (even when searching for it) on the 73640... I believe that the color wheel/mirror speed is higher... I think it's needed for 3D.. and that minimizes the rainbows....

I only saw it occasionally on the 62525... What I saw more predominantly on the 62525 was crosstalk on the Component inputs.... That was one of the reasons I bought an Active HD YUV switcher... So I could feed just one component input at a time.... Never got to try it on the 62525, but it became a necessity on the 73640....

And works beautiful, by the way!! !

Does anyone have any numbers on lag/response time for this tv? X-ms?

Has anyone used this tv for gaming (ps3)? If so, how did it handle? Concerned about lag and refresh rate with high intensity games, FPS, and fighting games.

Thanks

Faster than lcd or plasma from what I gather. My daughter and I have been playing racing games in 3d and there is no such thing as stutter.

Doesn't the sheets on this model say 120hz framerate? Methinks that would be 8.33ms, right?

Jan J, have you figured out the rainbow issue or called Mits? I honestly have tried to see the RBE, ie waving hand if front of eyes/really looking hard and can't see it. I am thinking something is off with the speed of the color wheel.
Shouldn't be having this issue in this years model. Hope you get it fixed.

I normally subscribe and fully understand the "don't believe everything you read concept", so I thought I better ask. I read an article that talked about Mitsubishi TV's and their incompatibility with Samsung Blu ray players... I was very surprised by the author's claim. Is this a myth, or is it something regarding older model versions? Just want to be sure.... Since I am looking to pair my Samsung BD-D6700 Blu Ray player with a Mitsubishi WD-73640 or 740 series. There should not be an issue with compatibility, correct? Dumb question is better than stupid buyer. Thank you in advance.

I was just looking at it. Nothing bad here... (rainbow)
I can't comment about Samsung BR -- I've a Sony. The BR's I've authored previously look beautiful on the 73640 (The BR disks were authored at H.264 @ 40Mb/sec)... Looks Better than they did on the 62525.

Hi, just for clarification and to keep this post as simple as possible, I'm going to keep this short.

I have a ps3. I recently got this dlp. What components do I need for 3D?

Thank You.

you need good hdmi cable from MONOPRICE you might need two if your running the signals through a AVR; that can PASS/through to tv..... a 3D emitter, then glasses... set up. Then so far in 3D settings you set to auto ; reverse; off. You may have to play with your setting just to see what your eyes like...... have fun. no rainbow effect..

Awesome! Thanks for in the information ILOVEMYHDTV! This forum is really excellent.

As for the 3D glasses, would the 3D glasses from Monoprice 3D IR Active Shutter Glasses for LG 3D Displays or 3D IR Active Shutter Glasses for Samsung 3D Displays be suitable for this DLP? If I had to choose, I would probably go for the Samsung 3D glasses.

[Edit]
After further research on the 3D glasses compatibility, I'm just going to wait. 3D is changing everyday and maybe by next year the price and compatibility will be more accessible for the average joe. When I say accessible, I mean a pair of 3D glasses for under $20 instead of up to $100. http://www.fullhd3dglasses.com/

I've seen some random white flashes on screen (non 3D) and that was the 'symptom' for the .03 firmware update..... But was supposedly for 3D only.....

So this morning I did the firmware update and upgraded to .03... No problem, but did not get the Mits screen during the upgrade.... as the document indicated....

Just had fast blinking green LED for ~ 5 Min.... then solid green and power up, and by the time the picture came on, the prompt was there to remove USB, and pull power and power up in a minute or two...

Upgrade here was from .02 to .03 and was entirely successful Favorites, Video settings, inputs, and channels all remembered!!!

Tip of hat to Mitsubishi....... This was far easier than on WD62525 (hard part there was waiting for memory card to be delivered!!)

Request for information.....
I've an unused HDMI port and would like to Add an interface to my PC....

Anybody use a
Aluratek VGA To HDMI Converter Adapter AVH100F?

Laptop outputs 1440 x900 so this would be a limitation of the VGA to HDMI converter/Adapter

Thanks!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/220854572925...4.m1423.l2649: other than SAMSUNG and MITSUBISHI oem these suppose to work. But yes I would not buy glasses now over $80. But you should not deny your self the pleasure of gaming or movies.

Question for you ILOVEMYHDTV.... I'm not smart about 3D whatsoever. Mits manual seems to indicate that you need to plug in a 3D (something) for the glasses...

The link you pointed out seemed (to me) to be glasses only....

Does this mean, you'd have to buy like glasses With the Plug-in Thingy and the link you posted is only for purchasing a second pair of glasses?

Even after reading the manual and Supplemental manual, it's not clear to be what the procedure is...

I do not have any 3D media anyway.... so I don't even have something to test with...

Am I correct to assume that only certain BR's with 3D, and BR Players Indicating 3D can do 3D.....
OR, can ANY BR Player do 3D, and the limiting factor is the BR Media?

Does 3D "test Media" Exist?

1. Only BR players marked 3D can do 3D.

2. This TV has DLP Link which is a signal sent from the TV to the Glasses, turns the screen a green hue, but with the right glasses(optoma zd101's for me) the green hue is gone with the glasses on and 3D is gorgeous. No emitter required.

Just 3D BR player(I recommend the Panasonic BDT-210) and DLP Link glasses are needed.

Hit your menu button. go to 3d options. put it on automatic, and exit. Works great.

Per page 8 of the on-line full owner's guide, the TV does not accept 1440 x 900. http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/pdf/201...-C11_IB_v1.pdf

Yes, I know that.... Also doesn't support VGA Analog....
That's why I'm getting a VGA to HDMI Converter....
That unit supports 1440 x 900, and converts that to something 16x9 that the MITS does support....

16 x 9 is a shape (actually an aspect ratio) not a resloution (16 units wide for every 9 units high). 1440 x 900 is a resloution. Your converter device would need to convert the 1440 x 900 to something like 1920 x 1080 (the TV's native resoultion). Be very careful about reading the specs of your converter. Most converters do not change the resolution, they only change the "analog VGA" signal to a "digital HDMI" signal of the same resolution.

Just took delivery of a brand new Mitsubishi WD- 73640 and can not get it to power up. Tried every troubleshooting recommendation and get NOTHING. Bummed. Anyone else have this experience? Recommendations? Thanks all.

That's the plan... (Convert 1440 x 900 to 1920 x 1080)

i've replaced my toshiba 72mx195 with the mitsubishi wd-73640 because the light engine failed on my 72mx195. Here's my feedback:

the picture on the toshiba 72mx195 was actually slightly better, with slightly less rainbows and pixelation. I found the 72mx195 to be a tad more clear, and the color to be more enjoyable. That said, the 72mx195 cost me $6000 back in the day, and the wd-73640 cost me a mere $1800. (i'm in canada, things cost more here)

benefits:
- the wd-73640 is hdmi 1.4 and actually accepts 1080p signal. My 72mx195 would only take a 1080i signal over HDMI. Although the deinterlacer in the 72mx195 was great, 1080p60 @ 120hz still makes for smoother motion.
- the 72mx195 hdcp negotiation issues with my other devices resulting in a black screen, the mitsubishi works perfect every time.

conclusion:
for $1800 (or $1300 in the states for you lucky americans), you still cannot get a better TV. I'm very happy with my purchase and have no regrets.


I am having issues however, but they're most likely HTPC related. Here's my set-up

HTPC:
AMD A8-3850 APU
ASUS F1A75-M Pro Motherboard
Xonar PCI Soundcard
Windows 7 - all latest drivers and firmware for everything

TV:
Mitsubishi WD-73640

Receiver:
Harman Kardon AVR 745

Initially I had hooked up my HTPC via HDMI through the receiver, only to discover that it cannot do 1080p pass through. I then wired the HTPC directly to the TV via HDMI and have run optical for audio from the HTPC to the receiver. Oddly enough the motherboard would only do 2 channel stereo over optical. I added a Xonar PCI Soundcard, which lets me specify DTS 7.1, but I'm not sure if its actually working properly. The display on the receiver never seems to change based on the signal coming to it like it does with my PS3.

Anywho, onto the bigger problem) Windows 7 seems to work just fine and movies work great. However, whenever I launched a game like Crysis 2 or Bioshock, initially I had no display at all. The screen would turn blue like its waiting for a device to turn on.

Later I played with some resolution settings, and toggled some scaling options off and on. I didnt think I even changed anything permanently, but oddly enough now displays, but doesnt want to scale or plays in a window in the corner. Even then, the mouse doesnt seem to correspond with the screen. When i run the mouse over the options (new game, continue, options, etc) it doesnt light up or get selected. It's all been very inconsistent. Does anyone have any suggestions? I suspect it has something to do with the scaling options in the catalyst drivers. I know very little about ITC or GFX scaling, and I'm not even sure that's it. Any input or suggestions would be of great help.

Well I ran some tests using flight scenes in Avatar on family and friends over the last couple weeks. They felt as though it was stuttering at times but said the picture is gorgeous. Greaaaaaaaaaaaaaaat.. I thought. There is the "judder" that is in every model this year.
I really didn't notice it watching the kids movies in 3D, but after two viewings of Avatar, uhhh, can't believe its there in these new models. Actually Megamind didn't "feel" right to my eyes. So thats no doubt what it was.

Really thought with new parts and few years of developement this years DLP's would be the best. Now I am starting to think the guy at Paul's TV was right about the 73738 floor model would have been a better buy.

Thanks to Lbear for getting the info on this "judder issue". Hopefully us 640/740/840 owners will get a fix sooner.

That model is what Mitsubishi calls a 3D TV, not what they call a 3D Ready TV.

What Mitsubsihi calls a 3D TV does not require an adapter for PS3, 3D Blu-ray players and most 3D cable boxes or 3D satellite receivers.

What Mitsubishi calls a 3D Ready TV will require the adapter for non-checkerboard 3D sources like the PS3, most 3D Cable boxes or 3D satellite receivers. The 3D Ready TVs do not need the adapter for some 3D Blu-ray players that have checkerboard output (some have this feature) or for PC and HTPC that have 3D graphics cards or software that have checkerboard output.

Mitsubishi has stopped making 3D Ready TVs and switched over to 3D TVs.

You do need matching active shutter glasses.

Ok, so here's the deal... I got 2000 to get a tv... is this the best one for my money?

I care about response time, picture quality and size...

I don't care about 3d(but its a bonus) or it being a flat screen.

im hearing mixed reviews on this unit, and not sure what to do...

its mostly going to be used for gaming, then movies.

Is there something else I should be looking at or concerned with?

How does this stack up against the competion? Or just plasma/LCD/led in general? (Esp in the fast motion, pixalation, response time categories)?

Thanks for any and all input. -jay

I was pleased with my first DLP, but this one 73640 if much better (though it has fewer inputs than my old one did).

Added the vga converter to display PC on Mits today....

One thing I didn't take into consideration.... My VGA output of laptop doesn't have same resolution as the laptop....Laptop has max of 1440 x 900, and the vga has a max output of 1280 x 1024.... and therefore the image aspect on the vga is 4x3...

I'm looking into it to see if I can force rectangle pixels on just the VGA output. (Display card doesn't appear to support that)....

But as an Extended monitor it works showing a 4x3 image on the 16x9 display... ("Format" on Mits makes the 4x3 look like Cinemascope)

For around $2k, you can get a 82", if you know where to shop.

DLP can't compete with plasmas for fast motion or black levels. Plasma can't compete with DLP in light rooms. Most LCD's can't hang with a calibrated Mits for color accuracy. DLP's don't suffer from image retention or burn-in.

One note--AFAIK none of the RP Mits DLP's properly take 1080p24 and display it at a judder-free rate of 72, 96 or 120. (The Mits that do 120Hz simply double 60Hz.) For fans of cinema who won't do judder, certain plasmsa (namely Pioneer), certain front projectors and certain LCD's (namely Toshiba) might be a better consideration than a RP Mits DLP.

I agree with most of what you say, But what motion blurAnd as for blacks, most plasma's float ( except the legendary Kuro or crt based rptv)Just finished Starwars on blu-ray via my Oppo 95 and 73738 and the blacks are deep! And I just migrated from a 64 inch Pioneer Elite. If movies and gaming are the choices I'd drop it on an 82 Mitsu without question

If you dont care about it being a flat screen, then i'd strongly advise the mitsubishi wd-82740 without a doubt in my mind. Shop around and you'll be able to find it for under $2000. I actually saw a wd-92840 for $3200 at onecall. I was so tempted! But then i'd have to replace my entire home theatre cabinet