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Official Sony KDL 32BX420 40BX420 46BX420 - Page 3

post #61 of 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by odourboy View Post

With the settings i reported in my earlier post, I don't notice any flashlighting.

None at all? For me, setting the backlight to its minimum, power save mode to high, and turning on the light sensor minimizes the flashlighting, but it's still noticeable in the upper corners. When the TV is first turned on the flashlighting is almost invisible, but after 30-45 minutes of being on it appears.

I'll try messing with some of the picture/color settings (aside from the settings I mentioned most of the others are kept at default which looks pretty good to my eyes), but I'm suspecting that mine has the problem a bit worse than yours.

While I'm still in Amazon's return period I'm trying to decide if I want to try another BX420 or try a Panasonic ST30 Plasma (which could have a ton of its own issues).
post #62 of 72
I don't understand how no one else has problems with this set when watching dark scenes. The minute I watch a dark scene in a movie, or a movie set in fairly dark environments, like Underworld or Pirates of the Carribean, I get miserable noise and grain introduced into the image that hasn't been there on my last two LCD sets, which were a Samsung and a Sony. I've calibrated this set using the advanced calibration portion of the Disney WOW disc, so it's not a settings issue, and my sharpness is turned down completely.
post #63 of 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonicarter View Post

I don't understand how no one else has problems with this set when watching dark scenes. The minute I watch a dark scene in a movie, or a movie set in fairly dark environments, like Underworld or Pirates of the Carribean, I get miserable noise and grain introduced into the image that hasn't been there on my last two LCD sets, which were a Samsung and a Sony. I've calibrated this set using the advanced calibration portion of the Disney WOW disc, so it's not a settings issue, and my sharpness is turned down completely.

I had this problem too, solved it by taking notes from the quick setup guide that was included with the TV. I unplugged everything and even turned off my surge protector for a bit. Turned it back on, connected my cable box first to the TV, then connected everything else to my TV, then plugged everything in. Then I turned on my TV, and everything was fine.
post #64 of 72
I am about to get 40bx420 but I haven't found info regarding to pixel mapping of this TV. Any experience here with bx420 connected to PC? Is possible to get clear pixel mapping via HDMI? I am gonna use it as big PC monitor, so pixel mapping is necessity.

Thank for any info
post #65 of 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattoxx View Post

Any experience here with bx420 connected to PC? Is possible to get clear pixel mapping via HDMI? I am gonna use it as big PC monitor, so pixel mapping is necessity.

I was able to get the TV to do correct 4:4:4 sub sampling from my laptop using a display port to dvi and then a dvi to hdmi cable.
post #66 of 72
I've had recent issues with my kdl-46x420 when turning on it takes up to 30/45 secs to load and the image is all distorted I have to shut it off and on about 15 times before it works,ive swiched the wires removed hdmi and put component still the same issue
post #67 of 72
Showing the PiP while the PC is connected to HDMI took some obscure config changes on the PC end. The manual is correct, but unclear on what to do. Here's what I did to get it to work. I have posted this as a review on Amazon.com also.

If the TV thinks your HDMI PC is a video source, PIP won't work. So, how do you confirm that it's seeing it as a PC? Name the input PC? Nope. "Scene select" as "Graphics?" Nope (but you should do this). You need to set the PC to send the signal using "PC timing" instead of "Video timing." I'm reasonably technical, but hadn't heard of that. On the video card on my laptop (Intel Graphics 3000) I was unable to see ANYTHING on video timing in the Windows resolution config screens.

Here's how I did it. While my PC was connected to the SONY TV, from the Windows resolution screen, I selected "Advanced Settings"
Then, I went to the hardward specific control panel (this was a tab in Advanced settings). For me, this was labeled "Intel Graphics and Media Conrtrol Panel"
From there, I selected "Advanced application mode" which gave me all sorts of settings.
The important one is "Custom Resolutions" (which is a bit scary, as you get a Warning about causing instability, additional heat and other damage, etc) Yikes!
After overcoming my fears, I created a new custom resoution (which was the SAME as the auto-detected resolution) of 1920X1080, 32 bit, 60P HZ, but the DIFFERENCE was in the dropdown field which read "timing standard."

***IMPORTANT*** This is the thing that you need to change. On page 44 of the manual it says that the needed standard to show a PC in HDMI mode is "CEA-861" and this was the last item in my dropdown list. (not the default selection which was "GTF")

Once I saved this custom resolution with the timing of "CEA-861", everything LOOKED the same, but NOW the TV saw the HDMI PC input as a PC and when I pressed the "Options" button on the remote, the PIP option appeared!

Obviously, this is a video card thing, and not a TV problem, but the "PC timing" thing is so obscure to most people that hopefully, this helps someone.
post #68 of 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by bclbob View Post

I picked up a KDL-32BX420 at Microcenter yesterday, I was trying to find a cheap 32" TV for my home office, and Microcenter had one for $292 open box so I ran over and picked this up rather than a no-name brand that I was thinking about. It might have been a display model, but still I can't complain about the price.


I calibrated using ColorHCFR and a spyder 3 sensor; here is what I came up with. It does look good but the G5 Hue has me thinking I see green. But I don't...


Picture settings: Custom

Backlight: 5

Picture: 85

Brightness: 51

Color: 56

Hue: G5

Color Temp: Warm 2

Sharpness 2


Advanced Settings:

Gamma: -1


White Balance:

R Gain: -23

G-Gain: -19

B-Gain: -1

R-Bias: +6

G-Bias: +5

B-Bias: -11


set all the feature thingies off.


If anyone tries these, let me know what you think .. I think they look good but the numbers sure are odd in places


edit: I have to set the tint towards green to have cyan be "close" but then it compromises other colors. G3 seems to be a slightly better for most colors but compromises cyan more.

These look great on my set. I had nearly everything within one or two points just by eye except the white balance settings. It also appeared too bright for me so I backed off the backlight a couple of clicks. Looks great.
post #69 of 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mnicholus View Post

Showing the PiP while the PC is connected to HDMI took some obscure config changes on the PC end. The manual is correct, but unclear on what to do. Here's what I did to get it to work. I have posted this as a review on Amazon.com also.
If the TV thinks your HDMI PC is a video source, PIP won't work. So, how do you confirm that it's seeing it as a PC? Name the input PC? Nope. "Scene select" as "Graphics?" Nope (but you should do this). You need to set the PC to send the signal using "PC timing" instead of "Video timing." I'm reasonably technical, but hadn't heard of that. On the video card on my laptop (Intel Graphics 3000) I was unable to see ANYTHING on video timing in the Windows resolution config screens.
Here's how I did it. While my PC was connected to the SONY TV, from the Windows resolution screen, I selected "Advanced Settings"
Then, I went to the hardward specific control panel (this was a tab in Advanced settings). For me, this was labeled "Intel Graphics and Media Conrtrol Panel"
From there, I selected "Advanced application mode" which gave me all sorts of settings.
The important one is "Custom Resolutions" (which is a bit scary, as you get a Warning about causing instability, additional heat and other damage, etc) Yikes!
After overcoming my fears, I created a new custom resoution (which was the SAME as the auto-detected resolution) of 1920X1080, 32 bit, 60P HZ, but the DIFFERENCE was in the dropdown field which read "timing standard."
***IMPORTANT*** This is the thing that you need to change. On page 44 of the manual it says that the needed standard to show a PC in HDMI mode is "CEA-861" and this was the last item in my dropdown list. (not the default selection which was "GTF")
Once I saved this custom resolution with the timing of "CEA-861", everything LOOKED the same, but NOW the TV saw the HDMI PC input as a PC and when I pressed the "Options" button on the remote, the PIP option appeared!
Obviously, this is a video card thing, and not a TV problem, but the "PC timing" thing is so obscure to most people that hopefully, this helps someone.

Wow! Exactly what I was looking for when I bought my TV a year ago (see my post on the first page of this thread)

Thanks
post #70 of 72
I have this tv (32BX420) and i can't find the white balance settings. I bought it in France and it has the 3.21.045.0102 firmware. What am i doing wrong?
post #71 of 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by Feahnor View Post

I have this tv (32BX420) and i can't find the white balance settings. I bought it in France and it has the 3.21.045.0102 firmware. What am i doing wrong?

Feahnor, I have the same TV. When get into the picture settings, you have to select standard or custom (for some reason, it isn't accessible from vivid). Scroll all the way down past cinemotion to advanced settings. White balance will be at the bottom.
post #72 of 72
Well I can't find it. It seems it isn't there in my firmware.





Maybe a firmware update is necessary? I'm on software version 3.21.0145-0102.
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