A call to all JVC users wishing to use the VIP 3D Theatre device - Page 5

OK after looking at my RS1 I decided not to do this modification. The Vsync is on the DD PWB card attached to the optical block assembly and all boards are shielded with metal cans so I would have to completely remove the optical block assembly just to tap the vsync. The cables that attach to it are all taped down with conductive tape to the metal cans. Just seems like to much risk to make this mode and then I would have a cable carrying RF noise back into the projector subjecting it to ESD as well. Kind of crazy to take the risk. Plus I have issues with the polarization of the glasses and the JVC which gives me a dark image. I would need a new screen to fix that.

So I think I may try one of the short throw DLP projectors or even the longer throw Acer. I could move it a little closer to the screen so it's not right on top of me although the image would be smaller. Just seems like an easier option and gives me a very bright 3D image and no flicker.

Smart move. The more I play with my 60 Hz projectors and learn all their quirks it was so easy to take the Acer H5360 and the IR glasses and just enjoy the movie wheras each 60 Hz projector has a short coming some where along the line of getting things just right. The only issue I have with the Acer is not the 3D but how setting it up with no lense shift and no independent image size/ focus adjustment. But I guess that's what you get for something at this price point.

Long throw Acer - which one are you talking about? The 5360? Not quite long enough for me...

I like using short throw pj's because I have it set up on a table in front of me.
Makes for easy swapping of PJ's. If you have a dedicated theater with ceiling mount then it becomes an issue.

Neither for me but I think the longer throw versions would be better with mt Draper M2500 and very bright with the high gain screen. According to Projector central I would get 49ft-L in 2D on my 120 inch screen. Way to bright but I wouldn't use it for 2D only 3D. The projectors are small so easy to move and setup or breakdown. I need to figure out which model is best. BenQ 600+ has color correction so maybe that is the best option. Although I think the Acer has a 3x color wheel. Need to read reviews.

I am thinking about getting the BenQ now! The color correction would be helpful but I wonder if the 3x color wheel on the Acer would be better. What do you think?

Ron

I haven't used the Acer a lot yet because I've been playing with the 60 Hz pj's but I was pleased with the 3D on it that I saw so far. Didn't need to use the RF glasses but only the IR glasses. Had no problem with ghosting with acer therefore no need to use the extra flexability of the RF glasses. Also just plugged and played and enjoyed the movies. Viewed both Cloudy with the Chance of Meatballs and Resident Evil. Except for setup issues I outlined previously no hastles with the 3D. 2D isn't as good as some of my other PJ's but still good

How were the colors? Are they over saturated? I think I can get a little closer to the screen with the benQ for the same size image as the Acer. It will have to be in front of me not far from my seating.

I thought maybe a tad in 2D mode but not 3D. Also I'm using a silver PVC screen I made which I like for viewing 2.35:1 aspect ratio which tends to enhance the colors that my other screens don't. It helps on contrast ratio somewhat for the PJ's that need it specifically my TX100 and EX70.

My Draper M2500 does a nice job with enhancing contrast too! I really don't want to change my screen. I can get a little closer and farther away from my seating with the BenQ. Need to research more...also the Optoma HD66 just works and the reviews with the Theater unit are outstanding. I don't want to be stuck debugging another problem. I have not seen many reviews of the BenQ 600+ yet.

I prey my Sony vw60 does not share the frame locking problem. Can't wait to find out and see how it works in general.

The low brightness with my JVC bothered me and I just want a bright image in 3D as i do with 2D. Even the RS40 is out as far as I am concerned.

Ok but I have a small screen in a dedicated room with no light (I covered the led on the sub woofer) my pj is capable of much higher light output than I use so I don't think dimming will be a problem. Only time will tell.

And, if I have a 3d-VIP convertor and decide to get a second pj just for 3d at least it will give much more options.

I confirmed the BenQ 600+ has a 3x color wheel and it has color correction. Brighter tested output than the Acer. I would probably only use it on eco lamp mode any way.

It is! But JVC recommends screen size no bigger than 90 inch diagonal for 3D and that's with a new bulb. It actually measures about the same as my RS1 so on my 120 inch screen at 1.7 gain I would have about 435 lumens in my long throw setup like I do now. It's OK with a new bulb but I lose 30-40% in the first 300 hours or so. Plus my screen retains polarization and the RF glasses are not the right polarization for my screen so I throw away even more lumens.

That is why the RS40 is out for me. I would have to use the JVC glasses and not sure the IR emitter would work in my long throw setup. My cheapest and way brightest solution is to get an Acer H5360, BenQ 600+ or Optoma HD66.

I wouldn't want a second projector either.

If the 3D-Vip stuff doesn't work out... I may just have to wait for a new display to get 3D.

-Brian

147 inch in 3D! Forget the RS40. In 3d you lose 80% of your lumens! 50% due to only one eye seeing at the same time and then the loss in the glasses due to polarization and shutter refresh speed.

So the Acer needs to be centered on the screen? Not sure I can do that. HD66 or 600+ might be the best option for me. I have not be able to confirm that the 600+ will work without DLP link turned on. It seems like 120 Hz turns on DLP link on that projector. Why so few using that projector?

Maybe the HD66 is the way to go!

In case anyone is wondering what I decided on...I ordered the Acer H5360. It's the best option for me with its center screen mounting. Why the change in thought? I picked up a Navitar 1.5x teleconverter to increase my throw distance to a little over 22 feet for a 120 inch diagonal screen. Found it cheap enough on Ebay. Its an expensive lens but maybe I can use it for some other setup in the future. So I managed to solve my long throw problem and get the projector away from my seating area. Image should be a lot brighter in 3D compared to my JVC in 3D. I don't need a lot of lumens with my Draper M2500. 1.7 gain! Screen center is 62.5 inches above the floor so the projector is above our heads while viewing. Only about a foot below my RS1 actually. Should work well with my angular reflective screen and now longer throw.

I spent a lot of $ on this...a lot more than I planned because of the converter lens purchase but I'll have a much brighter image in 3D than with an RS40. With my long throw setup the RS40 would need a new bulb every 200 hours and actually start out dim to begin with. My RS1 would be about the same with bulb changes in 3D. Plus the JVC glasses would need the emitter to be way up in the front of my room 23 feet away from my projector. The RF glasses are a must for me and they don't work with the JVC's.

I will post again when i get it all working and let you know if I am satisfied. Actually I got the lens so cheap I am happy I bought it. It may increase my list of selections of projectors in the future for my 23 foot throw like I use with my RS1. I don't think 720p will be a problem either as I sit about 16 feet away from my screen on the edge of a 30 degree field of view so 720p still looks good from that distance. I put a lot of thought behind this new 3D solution. I hope it works out! I am sick of reading so many reviews and specs of these 3D ready projectors.

Cheers,

Ron

Ok I just noticed that projector central screwed me up on where the projector needs to be placed. It shows the Acer to be center mounted to the screen vertically and horizontally.

Somebody shoot the guy who put the calculations in that projection calculator.

This screws up my thinking now...damn!

update: I'm good! Projector works ceiling mounted.

Did I understand you to say the DLP "flash" can't be defeated on the 600+ ? I picked one up from newegg and have been waiting to recieve a 3dxl box before I put it into action. Like you I use a HD1 and was interested in this for 3d titles only [ well maybe outside a little this summer] Do you feel the acer is better for what we have in mind? I kinda wanted to use the IR emmitter as they say the contrast is better that way......

I wasn't sure but I did find some comments that seem to say it should work without DLP link turned on.

The reviews are so good with the Acer and Optoma HD66 that I decided based on user reviews. The Acer seems to be the quietest as far as fan noise goes.

I couldn't find enough reviews of the BenQ 600+ in 3D and one guy didn't think it looked sharp enough but that is one users opinion. The Acer just seemed like a sure deal and it will work. Most think it has a crisp image instead of soft looking. At least crisp as far as 720p goes.

Ron

I had an RS40, RS50 and Acer 5360 on my 142" 16:9 2.8HP screen. the RS40 is brighter than the RS50, but as long as the projector is centered on the screen (about 6 inches above my eye level) the 3D output is quite pleasing overall (when the lamp is new)

It's dimmed 40% in about 300 hours but still fine on the 2.8HP. The Acer is putting out a measured 800 lumens in 3D mode and 1300 lumens with a rough D65 calibration which smokes the 40/50 with 3D mode lumens and this large screen.

The issue with the 5360 is that it's noticeable softer than the JVC's, especially on a screen this size. The 720P along with a cheap plastic lens doesn't help.

The Acer advantage is Brightness and zero ghosting from the DLP. The JVC advantage is much sharper image, better blacks and contrast, etc. The downside of the JVC is the quickly dimming lamp and ghosting is easily noticeable for me in some movies compared to the ghost free image of the Acer.

The ideal 3D setup for me would be the Sharp 17k for just 3D. 1080P and the ghost free images. Also the JVC needs a long warm-up time to watch 3D, at least 30 minutes before the ghosting is reduced. The Acer I can watch 3D the instant it's turned on.

plenty of pros / cons for each of these projectors.

I can see how it would work when the bulb is new but having the projector such to get the best gain in the sweet spot is not going to happen. Plus i didn't want to buy another screen. I still like my Draper M2500 with 1.7 gain. The Ir emitter glasses would have been a pain in my black room. Lose sync all the time I am sure. RF is the way to go for me.

I sit 16 feet away from my 120 inch screen. I bet the little acer will look good at a 30 degree viewing angle. Plus my RS1 was less sharp with the VIP decoder because it outputs 720p. I would nee the RS40 to see the difference. For now this will do! Thanks for your input though.

800 lumens will be plenty bright for me. 2D is bright at 435 lumens. I don't like more than 20ft-L off my screen. Too bright in my dark room.

The acer is a nice 3d projector especially for the cost. I am swapping mine out in august when the optoma 750 is released. The included 3d vesa port is a big deal for me. I don't want to be locked down to the dlp link glasses or my nvidias which have a strong green tint.

I have the monster vision 3d for my jvc and like them although find them fragile compared to the xpand 103s.

I don't find the Monsters or VIP RF glasses very fragile. I saw a pair of Samsung IR glasses and those are fragile. The plastic is pretty think on my VIP's.

I folded the arms on the monster vision glasses and a glass lens cracked. I think they are pretty flimsy compared to the Xpand 103's which are like tanks, I would let kids use them but not my Monster vision glasses.

it's a shame they don't work with with the Nvidia transmitter, I much prefer the tint color on the RF glasses vs my Nvidia's or Expand 103's. They should work perfect with the Optoma 750GT since it will have the 3 pin vesa port built in.

The plastic does flex so I can see the lenses break if flexed too much. I'll keep that in mind when using them.

Thanks,

Ron